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edstar1960

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Everything posted by edstar1960

  1. Thanks everyone for confirming that this is not isolated to just me and JeffersteinVS. I have cross referenced both this thread and JeffersteinsVS's earlier thread in my support ticket and mentioned several people have confirmed they get this problem.. Hopefully Line6 will take notice and get it fixed.
  2. Have you tried adjusting the global string volumes for the JTV in Workbench HD ? I think the factory set levels are too hot and all the models benefit from turning the piezo string volume down a bit. I think the acoustics sound better if string volume is reduced in Workbench. When I was on v2.0, I used the global string volume to even out the string sounds, and then I used the string volume for each model to tweak further, so for the acoustics, the global vol was down and then I tweaked the volume down some more within each of the model patches. IMHO they sounded better. It's certainly worth a try, you can always reset to factory defaults if you don't think it makes a difference that you prefer.
  3. Yep they are the standard wires and my JTV59 looks like that. Interestingly enough, my JTV59 has a resonance issue when I play a D or an A note. Particularly, if I play the A at the 7th fret of the D string (4th string). It's really bad if I am using an acoustic model and playing through a PA speaker, hitting that note produces an enormous amount of harmonic resonance, the open D is bad too. Things just start to ring. It is impossible for me to control and obviously produces all sorts of strange artifacts if I am in an alternate tuning as well. I wonder if it is the bridge design that is causing the problem - maybe that one lump of metal just happens to resonate at that frequency. It's very frustrating, and I have not found a solution to it yet - other than not playing those notes!
  4. I think this is your issue - combined with the ANALOG CHORUS in PATH A. You are only taking the LEFT side of the stereo out. From your description it looks like you have attempted to produce a MONO summed signal by setting mixer PAN to 0. The mixer value will ensue that both L+R signals of PATH A and PATH B get mixed together to produce the master L+R outputs but it retains both L+R as separate ensuring stereo is preserved - it does not sum both to MONO.. However, the analog CHORUS is a stereo effect, and you get a DRY signal on one side and a WET SIGNAL on the other. I can't remember exactly which way round it is, but I think it's DRY on R and wet on L. However, you have the VOLUME pedal on PATH B - so I would have thought that when you move that to minimum (zero) that it will remove the acoustic sound from the mix, so I don't understand why the acoustic sound is constant but the electric fades in and out? What happens if you take both the XLR L and R outputs into the mixer, which means you will get both L+R output from the Chorus.? Or what happens if you just take one of the 1/4 inch outputs (L or R) to the mixer? (Using just one 1/4 inch output will sum the L+R sides to mono for you - so if you only want a summed mono signal that is the output to use to ensure you get both sides of the signal from stereo effects like the chorus). What happens if you remove the ANALOG CHOURS from the patch?
  5. HI - Line 6 have just responded saying "first they have heard of this" and "can I post a sound clip of the problem". I pointed out that you are also experiencing the issue and that I had rolled back to avoid the issue and have some gigs coming up and won't have time to roll forward and back in the meantime. I have asked if they can try to recreate it, as if it is a problem with fw v2.0, then it is easy to recreate and spot, and if not then it points to an issue with our JTVs or the way we updated our fw which caused us to have the problem. If you still have a JTV that is exhibiting the problem - would you be able to make a quick recording showing the problem and post it to this thread? I can then point Line 6 support to this. Thanks very much.
  6. If I remember correctly - when I was on FW v2.0 - I tried to level the string volumes by ear and ended up turning them down between 1.5 and 4 db with Workbench HD. When I adjusted them on v1.71 before moving on to v2.0 - I had adjusted the string volumes between 90 and 80 percent, under standard Workbench again trying to level them out by ear. I recall that some people said they had dropped their string volumes by 6db or so under v2.0. When I first experimented under v2.0 I noticed that the adjustment had to be 6db or more to easily notice a volume change anything less was really subtle. It's easier enough to play around with - so maybe go for an obvious difference first and compare the models to real guitar levels through a normal amp - and if they are too quiet, then move them up a bit. If you decide it makes no difference or not a significant enough difference that you like, then you can always reset them back to max. I was surprised at the difference it made, I think the factory levels are too hot and it benefits from turning them down a bit, in a similar way to hurghanico's discovery that only using one input on the HD500 produces better and more realistic amp tones, tweaking the string volumes does help bring out the best in the guitar models.
  7. True - the noise will probably still be there - but reduced in volume and hopefully not as noticeable in the final sound. I did reduce my string volumes a couple of months ago and found that the end result was that the models sounded better and more realistic - however - I have since had to reflash due to other problems and have not had time to go back and adjust the string volumes, and I have noticed that I get a lot of extraneous noise particularly when playing higher gain sounds and I know it's due to my technique but also to the sensitivity of the piezo's. If I switch to mags then things are a lot smoother. So I must get round to adjusting the string volumes again. Hope it works out for you and gives you some improvement.
  8. Glad you found the answer! I have also noticed that the piezo's are super sensitive and pick up way more accidental noise than normal magnetic pickups. Have you tried lowering the global srting volumes on the JTV via Workbench? That may make them less sensitive to usual playing technique noises and more in line with magnetic pickups. Might be worth a try.
  9. To explain what is going on you need to provide specific detail on exactly how the patch is set up, so we can work out the signal path. What do you have input 1 and 2 set to? What fx (and what order) are you using on the PRE path? On path A? On path B? What have you got for the values in the MIXER block? (Both channel fade and pan_ What fx have you got in the POST path? What outputs are you using and where are you sending them to? (XLRs or 1/4 inch L and R or ???) Thanks.
  10. Have you seen this thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/3218-which-amp-to-add-to-pod-x3live-and-jtv/ Where Andy Paredes states this: the HD amp modeling has ~10x the data of the X3 modeling, I notice this most on the "mid-gain" tones with amps like the deluxe, Dr. Z, etc. Either the HD500/X or the X3 will work great with the L2 using the XLR output of either POD and going into the L2 on "reference" (flat response). the HD500/X will also give the option of the L6 link, which can "remember" the speaker setting with the preset and is great if you want to switch between electric guitar mode and acoustic mode with the touch of a button. Have you got the latest fw on everything? And does it still not work like that? I remember reading somewhere that the trick with HD500 remembering DT and L2 settings via L6 link is to ensure the patch is saved on the HD500 whilst connected to the DT or L2 in the required mode. Unfortunately I do not have an L2 to confirm if that is the case. But Andy Paredes comment certainly makes it clear that swapping from electric to acoustic mode on an L2 via L6link can be done with the touch of a button on an HD500. So just wondering if that really is the case? Thanks.
  11. This thread has some very good info about the footswitches and explains how you can clean them yourself which often fixes problems like you are describing: http://line6.com/support/topic/137-has-anyone-sent-their-pod-hd-to-r3fxcom-for-footswitch-upgrade/ Hope that helps.
  12. Quick update - I had rolled back to v1.9 and it was working as described but switched all my gear on this morning and discovered it is now NOT working like that but is working back as it did originally - which is - it follows what the JTV model knob is set to if you move the pu selector after the HD500 forces a model change, rather than staying in the bank of the model that the HD500 forced. I did not do anything in between - it has just started working back as it used to do. Weird! :S So we can no longer confirm that the described behaviour is normal - but I am now not sure what is normal because my JTV on v1.9 has swapped between both behaviours! ???
  13. OK - this is odd - I had rolled back to v1.9 and tested this and it was working as per the OP - but I just switched everything on this morning and now it is NOT working as the OP but working as you have described. eg: HD500 forced the JTV to a Lester patch, but the JTY had the model knob set to acoustic bank, when I moved the PU selector, I got the relevant model from the ACOUSTIC bank and NOT the LESTER bank. Which is how it was working yesterday. Odd !
  14. Interesting. I misunderstood your OP. I thought your signal via the HD500 was too strong - I did not realise that the amp fx block seemed to still have an effect on the signal even when turned off. Interesting that it has fixed the issue rolling back the firmware. Sometimes reflashing fixes these problems - so what happens if you reinstall 1.2 - does the problem reappear? Or is it still fixed?
  15. I have just tested this again. I am currently on HD500 v2.2 and JTV v1.9. I have page 7 of setup view LOCAL CONTROL: UNLOCKED. It is still behaving as OP described, which is the bank forced by the HD500 model change is what is recognised by the pickup selector switch, and not the bank actually lit up by the JTV Model control knob. To get it to recognise the bank on the JTV knob, I have to move the model knob, and then the pickup selector will choose models from within the newly selected bank. I wonder - Rewolf48 and arislaf - on page 7 of the setup view, do you both have LOCAL CONTROL: LOCKED ? Rather than UNLOCKED ?
  16. What do you have the 1/4" OUT switch set to on the face of the HD500? It is positioned next to the expression pedal. You can choose between amp or line for this switch. Line will give you a much hotter signal. Amp will give you a signal suitable for a guitar amp in. Also what do you have the MASTER volume set at? Recommended value is to have this turned to max. But you can lower it if you prefer the sound.
  17. I have also found out that rolling back to v1.9 fw on the JTV fixes this popping issue with the HD500 patch change that also forces a JTV model change. It is something introduced with v2.0 fw of JTV. I am about to raise a support ticket now.
  18. Apart from only using one input for variax and setting the other input to guitar, the only other way that I am aware of to reduce the volume of the mags over the VDI is to physically lower them, and also to use the volume knob on the JTV to lower the volume when using mags. If that does not reduce the volume enough for you, then I guess the only other option is to attenuate the volume by using the first fx block to bring the signal down. I guess you could do this by placing the FX loop there and placing a short cable from FX SEND to FX RETURN on the HD500X, leave that block on and attenuate the SEND signal as needed. Another way would be to use the VINTAGE PREAMP from the EQ section, adjust the GAIN and OUTPUT as necessary to attenuate the input signal. Hope that helps.
  19. When I first got my JTV59, I remember I had to lower the mag pu's quite a bit to even out the volume difference with the models. I ended up with mine about level with the pu surrounds which seems a bit low for normal use. I never did quite get them to balance out but I mainly use the models and they all have different volume levels anyway - so I tend to compensate volume differences with how I set up my HD500 patches. I believe someone has created a fw2.0 model bundle with all the different model levels balanced out, I can't remember exactly which thread it was in, but it was certainly within last few months, so you should be able to find it if you want to balance out all the model sounds. Balancing the mag volume will always be a matter of fiddling with the physical height, and maybe having to roll back the volume knob, as there is no software volume adjustment for the mags. By the way - do you also get a fair bit of noise when using the mags with VDI ? I found that I do and that has also put me off using them when connected with VDI to the HD500. However via the 1/4 inch connection they are as quiet as the models and as quiet as normal humbuckers.
  20. I have now moved on to v1.9 and I can report the popping is not happening. I will stay on this for a little while before I venture to v2.0 again. Perhaps the popping has been cured by the reflashing or it was introduced with v2.0, I won't know until I go back to v2.0.
  21. OK - finally managed to find some time for this - then I realised I had to roll back to v2 before I could roll back to another level of fw - I should have rolled back one at a time until the popping vanished rather than go back to v1.71 and roll forward. I had the SAME midi error failure at the end rolling forward to v2.0 - then I realised I had used my normal VDI cable so I swapped it out for the shorter cable that came with the JTV usb interface dongle and tried again. This time to my surprise when I had unplugged everything and reconnected it all, Monkey told me I had fw 2.0 on my guitar although it had just told me it had failed with the midi error - weird. Anyway, I took advantage of the situation and selected the roll back option and chose 1.82 this time. (I know I should have tried the going back one at a time BUT I had made my mind up I was rolling forward one at a time). Good news is that the popping does not occur at fw 1.82. Now I have to try 1.9 so watch this space .... :)
  22. One more suggestion, try a search in this forum for "ghost notes", there may be some other helpful suggestions in the threads that you will find. Good luck.
  23. I know you have reflashed several times already but crazy as it may seem, another reflash or 2 or 3 or 4 may fix it. That is based on what I have seen posted many times on the forum where problems have disappeared after another reflash. I don't understand why that should be, but many people report that it does sometimes work but of course it is very random and hit and miss. Also, it could just be the natural resonance of your particular JTV, that certain frequencies set off other strings and it is manifesting itself when you play those particular tunings. In which case there is nothing more that you can do once you have addressed all the obvious sympathetic resonance issues. Finally - if nothing works and you are still within guarantee period, then I suggest you send it in to Line6 for them to look at and test. If they can find a problem then they will fix it for you or they will confirm that its working fine. Good luck - hope you can get it sorted!
  24. Did you confirm that you are not hearing the actual strings on the guitar, by playing using closed headphones so you can only hear the amplified sound? Or playing loud enough on your amp to drown out the natural sounds of the strings? Or recording the sound directly to a PC and playing it back to see if the overtones are still there? If you did that and can still hear overtones, then the next thing to do is ensure that the strings between the nut and the machine heads are not ringing. Use a hair scrunchie or a small piece of material weaved in around the strings to ensure they are completely muted. If that still does not fix it, then you need to look at possible string ringing from behind the bridge and within the trem block and mute as necessary. Once you have ensured there is no extraneous harmonic ringing of the strings anywhere on the JTV69, you have basically done all you can physically. The next thing to do is ensure you are playing as cleanly as possible, any string noise at all can introduce strange artefacts when playing in altered tunings. If you have done all of this and are playing cleanly then I am out of ideas, and it is most likely a fault with your JTV69 and would need to go back to Line6 to be assessed and hopefully fixed. Good luck! Hope this helps.
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