FlyingsCool

YES! There is a MIDI command to scroll up and down through the presets. Or rather, 3 commands. For preset scroll up: Msg 1 Press CC71:1 Msg 2 Press CC50:127 Msg 3 Press CC71:0 For preset scroll Down: Msg 1 Press CC71:1 Msg 2 Press CC49:127 Msg 3 Press CC71:0 Now I just need a CC command to switch what's viewed on the screen.... One thing I found out was that for the first 30 presets, the PC# which is automatically sent out by the Stomp every time you change a preset will change the bank on you. To fix it, I turned off PC#tx in the Stomp and it works fine. I could also disconnect the cable from the Stomp Out to the MC6 in. I imagine someday that having the MC6 respond to a preset change might be useful, but I don't know if the MC6 is capable of if/then statement programming, etc.

I'm confused? Many people successfully use preamp blocks to boost their amp models in Helix.

Spikey, Spikey, Spikey... tsk tsk ;)

Or use a slapback delay instead?

Yeah, I was going to tell another user to search the forum here for all the threads, and give a few examples. I couldn't search for anything, much less FRFR.

Can we have the old forum back? This is getting really hard to use.

So, I wanted to search for people's favorite FRFR, and got no results I searched for Best FRFR Favorite FRFR FRFR Best FRFR Speaker Best Speaker Got no results. No matter what I searched for. I know they are out there. Or did people get so sick of other people asking that all such threads were deleted?

I don't like how you can't see who created the last post either anymore.

No, I changed the cab in cab 1. It didn't affect the parameters of cab 2. I will try it again tonight, but I'm positive it didn't. It did reset the parameters of cab 1, so if I changed to a new cab in cab 1, the parameters in cab 1 became the default for that cab, and when I switched back to the originally chosen cab, it had it's default parameters, not the parameters it had before I switched cabs. Line 6 support is there for both bugs and general help. I'm using Editor version 2.52 and firmware 2.54 (and driver 1.14 I think, whatever the latest is) I should add, the only parameters I was changing on cab 1 and cab 2 were the mic and distance. I'll change the hi and lo cuts, too, next time I test. And who knows? I could be wrong in what I saw, but I tested it a few times in a few different combinations.

If using a TRS cable and pulling it out a bit helps, perhaps a TRS-TS cable would fix it? (IOW, clip the ring line on one end).

So I just checked it on my unit, using HX Edit 2.52 with Helix 2.54. If I choose a dual cab, and I change some options on the first cab, then select the second cab and make some edits, then go back and select the first cab and change what it is, the second cab stays what it was originally at, and it keeps my edits. If I choose the second cab and make some edits to it, the first cab is not affected. What exactly are the steps you are making that are giving you frustrating results, and what is the result that is happening? What does happen to me, and this is working as designed; When I select the new cab, it changes all the settings to the default setup of that cab, and if I go back to the original cab I was using there, all the changes I made are gone. But, as I noted, this is working as designed. Man, I hope someday they allow us to create a library of settings for all blocks (IOW, give us a third column in the device column set that let's us see a list of user defined block setups).

What version of HX Edit and Helix firmware are you using? While we all appreciate everyone posting their potential bugs on the forum, please also make sure you open a ticket with Line 6, too. While they definitely read these forums, the best way to get these issues logged is if you work directly with their support people so they can reproduce it. In the meantime, I'll run upstairs and check it on my Helix. I'm pretty sure this didn't happen in the past on mine, but I'll check it on mine which is now on 2.54.

I don't but I've read several people using this amp in 4CM successfully.

I'd start with what you consider to be a good clean sounding amp, and then put pedals in front of it. Dirty amps often don't sound so hot with pedals in front of them. I've been using the Lonestar for that a lot lately, I think the Archon and Mark IV also fit the bill, as well as the JC120 and even the Essex 30 (Vox) with the gain (or your volume knob) turned down, and of course the venerable Fender Deluxe or Vib (I've been liking the Vib lately). Which brings up another point, I also highly recommend using your guitar volume knob to clean up your tone and don't even bother with pedals except for a mid-boost. Here's a great video showing the range of tones you can get from an amp Line 6 Helix - Trainwreck Express, Demo by Dom Hawthorn

So I searched, here's one post of a billion out there that discuss this... https://line6.com/support/topic/18089-compatible-expression-pedals/?do=findComment&comment=208577 Ya wanna clip the ring lead. It probably doesn't matter which end you plug in which. I just put the TRS in the pedal for consistency.

Whatchyaneedtodo is search the database here.... there's a post that goes into quite a bit of detail over how to create the correct cables for the various pedals out there, and how to mod your pedals. I use a couple BOSS FV-500H's. I created a couple of cables that are TRS on one side (I plug that into the BOSS pedal), and TS on the other. Basically, I had an electrical engineer friend of mine clip the correct line on one side of the cable. Sadly, I always forget which the correct line is, and when I tried to do it myself the first time, I did it backwards :( So... Don't clip the wrong line or it won't work, haha. But there's a bunch of people here who have described exactly what to do.

So, sorry, didn't finish my answer.... Deep parameters, They are what they are. Just like if you put a tube in an amp, it's going to have a certain amount of sag. So, unfortunately, if you are looking for a particular tone, and not getting it, you'll have to try out different Deep parameters till you're closer to what you want. That's why they are there, no two amps are the same, and these parameters have something to do with that. So there is no "real" value. It all depends. But you might as well start with the defaults. And if you're happy, you're happy.

I'm wondering if the OP meant the deep parameters, which always seem to be set to 5 out of 10, like Sag, and Bias, etc.. But to Cruisin's point, What do you mean OP? There are many threads on how to map an amp's controls to the controls Line 6 represents in their models. The controls line 6 gives should correspond to their counterparts on the real amps. Unfortunately, Line 6 had to make a choice, given that amps all have different names for their controls, even for different years of the same amps, they had to choose between copying the names from the amp, or choosing a sort of consistent naming convention between all amps. They've tried to match the names where they could, but sometimes they don't for the sake of interface consistency. They've also given us controls that some of the real amps don't have. For the most part, though, just about all the amps have most if not all the same controls as their real counterparts. So typically "Master" would be the Power amp volume control. Not all amps have this. For those that don't, Master should be set to 10 "Drive" corresponds to the pre-amp volume control on most amps, many times the only volume control on the amp (those without a Master Volume). "Volume" is a Line 6 gain control to help you balance the volume of the amps across multiple patches, and does not color the tone. Master and Drive do color the tone just like those controls do on the real amps. After that, you're on your own from amp to amp. So to answer your question, when you purchase a real amp, are the knob settings the closest possible? As far as how to set them up, it's highly recommended that you download the manual for the amp in question, and go to YouTube and find videos that show how different people like to set up their amps. Definitely check out HelixHelp.com Also go to TheGearPage forums and search for @benadrian's posts as well as @SHWang_Guitars, and of course Digital Igloo and Frank Ritchotte and Design Guy

Well, sounds like you've got the idea, but, I promised a preset, so here you go. Nothing special, kind of random actually, but it shows the concept I described. Guitar-Mic.hlx

And we're ok with it being only in English, since it's the only "real" language :ph34r: :o :P (Not that I disagree with you @MusicLaw ;) )

I'll create a couple example presets when I get home (you can't do it in Native, at least not easily). There might already be an example in the "Templates" Setlist (last setlist).

The easiest way to start would be to put the guitar on Path A and the mic on Path B. On the left, select the circle on the far left on path 1 and set the input device to Guitar. On the far right of the path and select the output and set it to XLR. Now on Path 2, select the circle on the far left and set the input device to mic. On the far right of the path, select the output circle and set it to whatever you want to output it to (1/4"?? you didn't say). There are lots of other ways of setting this up if you need more than this (for instance, if you needed another path for the guitar, you take an effect on Path 2A and drag it down to Path 2B. Then select the split and set it to have the input device from mic (you should see a new circle so you see two separate paths). At the end of Path 1A, set the output to go to Path 2A and not XLR. Now go to path 2 and select the mixer from path 2B to 2A and set it to output to whatever you want the mic to go to (instead of connecting to Path 2A) and set path 2A to output to XLR. I know that sounds complicated, but it's easier to do than it is to describe in words.)

There's a post on here somewhere regarding this. I don't know the exact method off the top of my head. Export the preset you want to convert. preset files are human readable text files (setlists and bundles are binary and unreadable). There is a setting in there that sets each effect as stereo or mono. Change it from stereo to mono (probably by going from 1 to 0?). Save the file. Import the preset into a new location or setlist (maybe have a stereo setlist and a mono setlist?). Should be all set. A little complicated, but, easier than writing everything down if the way above doesn't work. And with a little work, you could somewhat automate the process.

He is a long time user of the DL4 (there's a video of him using one looking over Hollywood from the hills). His backing guitarist on his last tour is a Helix user.

My bet would be the compressor might be fowling you up. How's it record without the compressor? Make sure you set the attack to near minimum. Max will really soften the blow and remove any picking attack. I'd really spend some time trying different compressor settings. I only just discovered the Fender Vib, love it as a nice clean punchy sound. A sound I hadn't been able to get from the deluxe. Not that I'm any expert with Fender amps, my bet is it's in there. But the Vib with basically default settings, maybe drive turned down a bit sounded just like I expected.