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FlyingsCool

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Everything posted by FlyingsCool

  1. No, I would never want to pick up something like this one handed. But I could imagine rigging up a carry handle thingy... Imagine sewing together some straps that would lie underneath the Helix When you are ready to move it, you pull the straps over both sides of the unit, and maybe have some clips for the side loops so it doesn't slide out the end. Something like this: But, no, personally, I just use two hands to pick it up. I feel safer that way.
  2. It's worked fine for me with my L2t and L2m when I connect through L6 link into the L2t then l6 Link from there to the L2m. What kind of cables are you using? Are they AES/EBU 110 Ohm? In some cases this is really important. Sometimes XLR doesn't cut it. He said this a long time ago (pre-release I believe), but I'm pretty sure that DI has said that midi control of the DT amps would be really hard, and other stuff has priority over it. Not impossible, but, not yet, if ever.
  3. RIght over my head.... We barely even know what Constables are over here.... Don't they use those infinity cabinets to fly around in or something?
  4. Kingsley and Constable? I assume you mean Voltage Queen (Electro King) and Cartographer? But, yeah I agree :)
  5. Actually, if you use a TRS to TS cable, it'll likely work just fine. That's what I have to do with my BOSS FV-500H. There's lot's of examples here of how to accomplish that. I clipped one of the connections in a TRS cable on one side, I think it was the ring, but I'd check the various explanations with pictures and directions that have been posted here.
  6. Yes, I agree, the Helix Looper is not useful for me for live playing. I can't say I really want it to be either. There just aren't enough buttons to be able to have my stomps and control a looper at the same time. The last thing I want to do while playing and switching presets and controlling stomps, is to have to keep switching modes back and forth between the stomps and looper and presets. Like you, I put my looper in the effects loop. Then, everything is right there all the time. I don't mind seeing an autofade option. I think they left some buttons free for things like that. But I can say I don't really care either way. The Helix Looper has it's utility, but it's not long enough, and I hate having to switch modes. Looping is hard enough without all that. But if you put an ideascale for it, I'll vote for it.
  7. Is it possible the nut is off (cut to wrong height) for that string? The g string slot on the nut of my Tokai is a little high; When the string is in tune, if I fret it at the fret it at the second fret, it's sharp. I need to have it filed a bit.
  8. Yep, that's a global setting in the global settings on the Floor (and LT) (and Rack)
  9. Yeah, if you're flowing down to path 2, make sure path 1 isn't also outputting to multi
  10. Tech 21 flyrig has been seen as a choice. There are a bunch of amp in a pedals out there. If you're going to go with the Bean, I'd get the FVII pedal board to go with it... Probably better to get an HD500X than a bean. Unless you're ok with just one preset, then the bean would be fine. Ha Specracer beat me to it.
  11. umm.... what's causing all the sometimes this and that stuff? Are you adding effects? Do you have an amp sim on? Do you have a bad cable? For me, when I plug an acoustic in, I tend to use no amp and just add a touch of reverb and/or delay. Too much reverb and you'll get feedback. If feedback is a problem, you could try adding an eq and sweep a high q cut through till you find the offending frequency range. Using a compressor or adding gain from an amp will increase the likelihood of feedback.
  12. Turn off the ringer? Sorry couldn't resist.... It's most likely electrical interference from your computer. For me, the disk drives are the worst culprits (hence why you hear it when you open HX Edit). It'll be especially bad with single coil pickups, humbuckers can be better about it. Try standing further away from the computer to see if that helps.
  13. Yeah, there's a global setting to control whether Helix forces a setting or not. It might now be turned on. There's been some wonkiness of global setting activation with the new update. It may be set correctly but might not be active till you look at it in global settings on the unit. Or, perhaps the default setting has changed with the update, or perhaps you didn't restore your previous global settings (you didn't say in your post).
  14. From the release notes: Bug Fixes - Turning the Cali IV Rhythm 1 model’s Master knob down can occasionally cause an increase in output volume -FIXED - When UK 846 and Teardrop 310 wah models’ Level and Mix parameters are set to 0, ~3dB of gain can be added -FIXED - Pitch blocks’ Interval parameters may not be properly restored after exporting and then importing a preset -FIXED - MIDI clock could become unstable for a brief time after adjusting certain parameters on the Global Settings > MIDI/Tempo page - FIXED - In the Command Center, if an Ext Amp message is assigned to a footswitch, Ext Amp messages assigned to Instant commands may not restore properly -FIXED - General stability improvements - Other minor bug fixes and optimizations Known Issues - In rare cases, MIDI note commands set to momentary can switch to “latching†- If its Mid and Bass parameters are set to 0.0, the Cali IV Lead Amp/Amp+Cab model sometimes exhibits a decrease in gain - If snapshot names have been cleared, preset names can sometimes appear blank when switching from Snapshot footswitch mode to Preset footswitch mode It's possible the fix for the Cali IV may have had an effect on your preset.
  15. I'm pretty sure you actually still need Monkey to keep the Variax and HD up to date. Make sure Monkey is up to date, and connect the Variax directly to the computer and make sure it's up to date and that you have the latest version of Workbench HD if you haven't already done that. If you can't connect directly to the computer, then it's not going to connect through the Helix either and you've got a problem with the connector on your Variax (since you've already tried multiple cables). When I had a problem connecting to HD through my Helix, it was because of a bad pin on my cable. The Variax worked fine with my Helix with that cable, but it wouldn't talk to HD. Given you have tried multiple cables, it could be a problem with the connector in your Helix as well (if there's not a problem with the connector on your Variax).
  16. FlyingsCool

    EP boost

    (nobody ever knows it's a clam unless you tell them so (not that I ever heard it), otherwise, they think it's creative genius!) Thanks for the clip... It's always a huge help to actually hear what someone is trying to describe with words.
  17. One thing about FRFR speakers (and PA's etc.). Given they have multiple horns/speakers, you have stand quite a bit further away from them than you do with an amp to get the full signal that they are putting out so the different sound streams can combine appropriately.
  18. Sure, there is a case to be made to not use L6 Link. Yes - Allows you to send the stereo signal with one cable to one speaker, and if you want to split it, then use the L6 Link out to another speaker from speaker one. Eases cable usage and there are, I think, fewer D/A / A/D / etc. conversions (L6 Link is digital, and the L2 is digital at heart, IOW, I'm pretty sure there is an A/D/A conversion on the analog inputs of the L2 / L3 series. So through L6 Link, you're sending the digital signal to the Stagesource, and then the Stagesource is going straight D / A, so there's no D/A- A/D/A conversion) No - You can run either XLR or 1/4 to either the mixer panel on the L2t and eq it there, or into the line in on 1 or 2 speakers, and then use global eq Mostly, it's a Line 6 of this, half dozen of that decision process...
  19. Yes, Global EQ does not affect L6 Link, nor do the eq's on the mixing panel of the L2t
  20. Make sure you are tweaking at gig volumes and in the context of the music you are playing. Unless your drummer and bass player are really patient, you may want to record their parts, then record your own playing in a separate track using using USB 7 to get the dry, then loop it all, running the dry track through your helix and tweak to fit. A tone that sounds great on its own could get lost in the mix, while one that sounds shrill on its own cuts through and sounds great in the context of the band.
  21. That's why the first thing I did was only restore the user setlists and Global Settings.... it's in the options for restore.
  22. Gain is NOT set up correctly. Sounds like the input gain is way too high? What do you mean by 60% and 100%? Is that the "mix"? What is your "level" set at? My bet is that the IR's aren't meant for this application? Aren't they meant to take an electric guitar pickup signal and make it sound acoustic? I have no idea, I don't have those IR's. I have yet to find an IR that works well with my acoustic piezo signal. They seem to take body away from the guitar. But, again, I don't know if that's the correct application for the IR's I do have. I've had my best luck with the acoustic simulator in my StageSource L2t. I keep hoping they'll add that to the Helix.
  23. Yeah! I would love that! Also, it would be nice if the various windows could be undocked from the main window, so you can more easily go back and forth between them. Many of us now have dual monitor screens. I love that my DAW can do that.
  24. 'Cept, I'm imagining from his description, that he added a little more "magic" to the Cartographer that he couldn't do with his real amp.... you know... 'cause he could ;)
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