FlyingsCool

Make sure you are using multi-out, and digital out is on. Helix lumps all digital outs into a single thing for output control. The manual does say something about you can only use either L6 Link or S/PDIF, but I swear I've used them at the same time. I haven't tested it for a while though to be sure. I have done a bunch of recording through S/PDIF though.

Highly recommend getting some good cooling going on, especially when you are in direct sunlight. Maybe a shade as has been suggested along with at least a fan with a clear path around the Helix. I'd even consider mounting some sort of liquid cooling rig in your plywood box. I once had to use my laptop in the heat, and put it in a box with bags of ice underneath it to keep it cool enough to keep running.

I had a similar issue. I, too have a JTV-69 (black, but color doesn't matter). The guitar worked fine with Helix, but wouldn't talk to Workbench. Turned out my problem was my VDI cable, one of the plastic insulator ribs had bent over one of the pins. When I pushed it back it worked fine. I knew it was the cable, though, because it worked with the supplied VDI/ethernet cable that came with the Variax, It was my Neutrik connector VDI cable that wasn't working (I really should buy a backup)..... In your case, it seems like one of your drivers is wrong, as shown by the "You must use a James Tylers Variax version 2.0 or higher" response. I don't have a list of all the drivers and software required in front of me, but it sounds like you're not using the HD Variax firmware or driver for the guitar? Can you connect to Workbench HD using the USB connector that came with the guitar?

So after all this, I just hope Line 6 doesn't take "my" precision display away. I can hear the difference between what the Korg stabilized on and turning the tuner to get the string within a top line block on the Helix. That extra precision is worth it to me. I haven't seen any "jumpiness" in any of the videos I've seen. To me the tuner is just showing me how the string is decaying in detail. Hopefully, if they do anything, they make two modes, precise and averaged, or whatever you want to call it... Take into account I'm an engineer by trade, so I'm used to seeing through the details.

Then you haven't tried putting "Catsup" on a hotdog and then rolling it in crushed korn flakes... ;)

Yeah, man, this whole concept has been killing me. I keep responding then erasing because I want to remain civil. You hit the nail on the head. Personally, perhaps because I'm an engineer, I can wrap my head around averaging the result in my head, and I actually prefer the "higher accuracy" as you say. The "jumpiness" does not bother me, and, in fact, I prefer it. I want a real time result and I can tune faster with it in fact. Then again, I'm no expert in tuning and the physics involved with the display of the result, and maybe there is a solution which will make "everyone" happy. I'll still get my resolution, and others can see a steady needle. I just hope, and thankfully they have proven to act this way in the past, Line 6 doesn't act till somebody who is complaining actually posts a video showing the problem. Why hasn't anyone posted a video of the problem yet? Would it be so hard? The video above is not showing anything worth addressing to me, and is what I see. Faulty implies broken. It's not broken. The tuner works (unless somebody can show me how it doesn't, it works for all my guitars and bass (not that I have a ton)). The issue is some people like the UI implementation, others don't, and so far it seems a little better than 50/50 on keeping it the way it is.

Have you submitted a ticket to Line 6 regarding your concerns? Do you have a video showing your issue? Do you have a similar video showing use of a tuner which you consider to react better? In your ticket, did you state the model of guitar and pickups and other relevant information I read through the other thread, and only saw one video posted, and that is from a satisfied user showing response similar to what I'd expect. I don't see how Line 6 can give any response without direct evidence of an actual problem. I've seen lots of people talk about it from both sides, but nobody has posted a video showing a problem besides fenderod, and there was no problem there. (Full disclosure: I personally have no problem with the tuner, and when I tune my guitar I get a response similar to fenderod.)

Steady 120V is not the issue. You wouldn't be able to use the outlet if it didn't supply 120V. The problem is related to how the outlets are grounded, are they on the same circuit? Are they on different circuits? Did you try running an extension cord to the other outlet from the Helix so everything is powered from the same circuit? Do you have the USB plugged in? Do you live in the US (which country you live in is important in understanding the circuit) (Since you said 120V it sounds like you do)? Maybe that's what you meant, i.e. that the electrician you spoke to said the outlets were properly grounded and on the same circuit, but you haven't explicitly said that. Perhaps @MusicLaw could discuss what grounding issues could exist between different circuits (or even in the same circuit) in a house in a little further in detail. I used to paint homes, and of course had to remove outlet covers. I can't tell you how many times I've seen outlets where the electrician didn't bother to ground the outlet properly.. And who knows what the circuit connection to ground was like in those cases?

But, as DI mentioned, how does Helix know it is playing at "gig" level?

My reason for metering "toys" in the system are to debug where (possible) clipping points in the preset....

Just to be clear, are you thinking of buying a Helix Control to control an Axe FXII (in which case Peter's answer is the answer), or do you have a Rack+control, and also want to control an Axe FXII with MIDI commands (which you can do)?

bumpety bump bump Chitty Chitty Bang Bang

www.line6.com and go to the support page

Everything I've read is it's CAT 5 (I never even heard of CAT 4)(Not that I necessarily should have, I'm an ME with an interest in computers)

As MusicLaw said, JBL makes a matching subwoofer for the LSR308's - LSR310S. If you are considering going that route, you may want to consider going with LSR305's instead. When I was researching, I saw several people say that the LSR305/LSR310S combination sounded "tighter"... which kinda makes sense: since the 308's have better bass response than the 305's, they could interfere a bit with the 310S's. I'm no expert on this, just sharing the results of my research....

You could mark the thread as answered so people don't open it

That's not really fixing it.... Maybe you could post a picture of your preset and describe what you are trying to do.... And post the preset itself. Did you know that the presets are human readable text files? You could export the preset and might be able to figure out what's going on just by looking at the settings.

Umm, which expression pedal? The built in one? An external one? If you turn on/off what other pedal? Do you mean blocks in your preset, or do you have pedals in your send/return loops? What does midi have to do with it? Do you have midi pedals or things in your set up? Sorry for all the questions, but your setup is not obvious from your description. I've never had a problem with the range of the internal expression pedal, on any of my line 6 stuff. But since you mention other pedals and midi, I can't tell what's going on. If the LT expression pedal jack is the same as the Helix, remember that it's a TS jack, and many external expression pedals expect TRS. But if that were your problem, it would typically not show up with the symptoms you describe (i.e. usually it would go 0 - 100 - 0 through the range with 100 in the middle). If it's the internal pedal, sounds like there's an issue with it and you should probably open a ticket. I have run into issues where I accidentally assigned my pedal to a stomp and it caused weirdness. Maybe you accidentally assigned the pedal to a stomp and set it's range? We'll need more detail about exactly what your preset setup is like.

Should be able to get them for around $35 if you look around. It's a cat5e network cable with Neutrik ends, if you can, look for a cable that's meant to be flexible. I'll ask around here at work what that spec would be.

Just a reminder that the Boston Helix User Group will be meeting at the Somerville Jamspot (111 South St, Somerville, MA 02143) in 3 weeks on Sunday, June 25th from 2 pm to 5 pm. @Frank Ritchotte Senior Director of Operations at Line 6 will be joining us . Hope everyone in the area has left the date open. Looks like there should be plenty of parking around the building and in the area. Hope to see you there!

Make sure the volume pedal block isn't being turned off in between snapshots.

Have you tried another cable? All it takes is just one wire not connecting properly. As I said, my cable was working perfectly with the Helix, just not with Workbench, that's what made it confusing for me. And my cable was essentially new as well. But I knew it was the cable because Workbench worked with another cable. Then I looked at the end of the cable under a magnifying glass and saw the problem. Bent the plastic bit back out of the way and was off to the races.

You have the toe switch as an instant switch in snapshots? Do you mean a momentary switch? Why use the expression pedal toe switch for anything other than switching between expression pedals? (just wondering) I would try rebuilding the patch, and don't involve the expression pedal/toe switch and see if you still get the same response. I've mistakenly set expression pedal stuff on switches and gotten weird stuff goin' on.

I had a similar experience.. Turned out the connector on my cable was bad, one of the wires was covered over by bent over plastic separator. It worked fine with the Helix, but wouldn't work with Workbench till I fixed the connector. I knew from the start it was the cable because it worked fine with the VDI cable that came with the Variax.

Make sure you didn't accidentally add the expression pedal change to your switch, if you know what I mean. As far as I know, it shouldn't do that unless you tell it to. (I assume you mean EXP1, not EXT1?) I have a regular Helix, not an LT, but I imagine it works the same as the rest of the Line 6 expression pedals; you should also be able to switch it back by using the toe switch in the expression pedal... press hard with your toe, It can seem quite hard to activate till you get used to it.... By default, most patches are built with the expression pedal set to EXP2 for the volume pedal for some reason, and EXP1 is set to the WAH pedal. And since it seems all the factory patches have a volume pedal, and that's what's on by default, it's always EXP2 for consistency. But it can be set however you want.