theElevators

You can order the exact replacement on Fullcompass.com Replacement LED on FullCompass: footswitch LED. 18-26-0011. You need to call them to place an order.

I didn't know about the whole impedance when I was building my presets. So I left it set to "auto" and never changed it. In my case, the first blocks in all presets happen to have impedance value of 1M. It sounds pretty good, and I tried experimenting with different values and did not like the results. In some cases certain notes started popping out. You can experiment with different values. Also, there's a glitch on the Helix that if you switch between 2 presets with different explicit impedance setting, it'll make an annoying loud sound -- something I definitely do not want or need. Here's a chart of the virtual impedance of various blocks: https://line6.com/support/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=10395

the polyphonic pitch shifter is good, but the lag is there.... For one song here-and-there it's more than adequate. I would not play an entire show in Standard Eb using the pitch block..

I just discovered this effect, and it's great! I was struggling trying to synchronize my tremolo effect to the tempo/rhythm of the song because it needed to be a particular speed.... now it slows down/speeds up and is never exactly on the grid, while preserving my needed tempo. Amazing.

I thought 3.5 allows you to switch the phase of IRs...

Also try loosening the pedal a little with the supplied hex wrench. If you are saying it's so tight that you can only move it to the bottom without applying a lot of force

Sounds like a hardware problem. Expression pedals like are optical: a light shines through an opening and interprets that as the percentage of the EXP pedal. If the opening is too wide, or if off-center, then it will appear as if it's not returning to 0. Best send it over to Line 6 for warranty repair / replacement.

hehe! But Line 6 folks added the Sunn amp and a few more useless effects nobody asked for. I knew they would not fix it. That'd been too easy. So I will stay on 3.11 @line_6_user good luck trying to convince others that it's a software bug.

I mean for your existing presets, do they sound the same or better? I doubt they do.

Check your global settings -- do you have your delay trails set to "transparent"? or "accurate"? Try "transparent" if that is not what you have. Between 2 snapshots you can have different delay tempos as well, which some people use to their advantage. So check if this is the case, as well. You may be disabling the delay, but the tap tempo is slower so it sounds very exaggerated. See my video explaining the delay tempo trick. https://youtu.be/5m-1tfnfreo

That's great to hear! However I will wait to update the firmware for another month or two. I have a gig, then a tour coming up, so I want to be 100% sure there are no issues. After every major update, there is always an immediate hotfix.... My philosophy is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. TBH, I don't need anything that 3.50 has. But if the sound quality is indeed better, then it's worth checking out for sure. The left/mono bug getting fixed would be a nice bonus.

really?

in 3.15 it will come back. in 3.5 though, maybbbbe they fixed this bug. Let us know. I'm sticking to 3.11. No need for me to update the firmware as I don't use IRs, and don't need change a single thing in my presets.

No way to do that, you'll need to add things manually to each preset. I also don't recommend copy/pasting blocks between presets -- sometimes I get weird bypass behavior for these copied blocks when I use snapshots.

This is cool.. but I'll wait for bugs to surface... Ain't broke, don't fix! 3.11 is the most stable version that has everything I need :P

Yes, you can use other inputs, e.g. return 1, return 2. So, you can have that in your chain in the beginning. There's a guitarist, whose name I forget, but he wired his guitar in stereo: neck goes to return 1, bridge goes to guitar in. In his snapshots, he switches between neck and bridge.

My advice is to use the output block's level as the last resort to level your presets. Instead of that, simply try cranking the amp, delay level, etc. Because there's a weird issue where if you switch between presets with different output levels, there's a clicking noise. Same applies to snapshots if you change that in between snapshots, there'll be an audible pop -- the bigger the discrepancy, the louder the pop. Same applies to changing your impedance settings between the presets -- same weird glitchy pop. 20 db boost is pretty much impractical and unrealistic. So you can argue whether it's a bug or not, or just accept it as that's how it is. Helix has a lot of weird quirks and inconsistencies, that you need to just learn to overcome. From experience, pick your virtual rig, and use the same distortion, amp, etc in all your presets you are planning to use at the same gig, or risk weird noises and other sound guy nightmare scenarios where some presets are way too loud/soft. Another advice regarding building your preset (courtesy of S. Sterlacci) is to have your actual presets as loud and never louder than a blank preset. That sounds the most musical, no clipping, no weird digital idiosyncrasies.

it's not distortion in the sense of having a boss DS-1... it's just your signal is very very hot and it's clipping...

you're in a pedal board view....

There are so many parameters on the Helix: global settings, preset options, that I recommend starting with a clean slate when things don't make sense.... Rather than figuring out what went wrong, it's faster to recreate the preset from scratch. There's a weird bug for example, that if you copy a block from another preset, the snapshot behavior of that block is completely random and predictable: it's on, it's off, and you can't save its state correctly. So just delete and recreate it from scratch -- no issues. That's my approach to life in general, when things don't make sense, start from square 1.

Well, if you want to hear yourself on stage, then my recommendation is to use use the 1/4" out and connect it to the power amp, or even input of the amp. I use Fender Twin reverb amps reliably as my monitor mix and there is no effects loop on them. They are very clean and neutral. If you want to be fancy, you can use a send block and run it into the "return" of your amp... that way you are not sending any cab sim sounds to it. (Cab sim basically muffles your sound a little bit). Then in your chain you can add the cab sim/IR AFTER your send block, so that the FOH mix would get everything properly. So basically, here's your chain: guitar -> distortion -> amp -> send1 -> cabinet/IR Helix also allows you to send different stuff to 1/4" out and XLR, so you can split your signal and place outputs at various places in your path..... e.g. 1/4" will be right before the cabinet/IR. That way you can control the volume of your 1/4" output. It's nice to be able to turn yourself up/down with the volume knob, otherwise you are stuck with only one loudness volume. IMO it's not worth it, all this send block business... On stage all I personally need is to just hear myself, and if I tweak the knobs I can always get the sound that I want without removing the amp/cab simulator. I always just run the same exact FOH mix to whatever is on stage, preferably a single 1x12" amp/cab, or 2x12" amp/cab. For some reason Marshall cabs completely destroy my sound and make it too muffled so I need to use some EQ / Global EQ, something about the 4x12" configuration always sounds awful....

Here's an anecdote: 3-4 years ago I was asked to play a solo during somebody's set, some blues shuffle. That person only had an acoustic guitar, an inexpensive Martin. He also had a Keeley-moded DS-1. We didn't have any time for a sound check, I just went on stage, plugged in, ran the acoustic into the distortion and out into a DI-box. I took the DS-1's tone knob and turned it down so it was not harsh, but bluesy and tube'y sounding. I spent about 10 seconds adjusting my sound, so that it sounded passable. Long story short, that performance blew people's minds, and several people years later still say "wow, that was the best guitar tone I've ever heard" and "I've never heard an acoustic guitar sound that good!". I had no clue it was that amazing... I thought they were pulling my leg. So there you go, an acoustic guitar, a DS-1 and no guitar amp sounded apparently phenomenal. Just a happy accident.

1. I'm sure you can even get clever and approximate an amp block with a compressor, EQ block and an IR... 2. You can buy Joyo American Sound, or any other Joyo amp pedal, and run it in the loop -- it sounds great, only around $45... https://www.amazon.com/JOYO-American-Guitar-Overdrive-Effect/dp/B08NB9L73M/ https://youtu.be/S-JHefdx_is If somebody hacked an HX Effects, it would be possible to add an amp. It's like a GPS device can be hacked and turned into a touch screen computer running Windows mobile... The capability is there, but hidden from the user, so that each device performs its designated function, and nothing more. BTW, did you know that most of the early Motown guitar and bass tracks were recorded without a guitar/bass amp? Everything was recorded straight into the mixer.

check if the input signal is the same on both Helix and HD. Most likely on the HD you have some kind of an input pad, but on the Helix the signal is hotter and the finger noise gets amplified. Check the same for output as well. I'm assuming you did not change the global eq... otherwise that could also be causing this discrepancy.

ummm. the washers do not actually touch or put force on the ring... the button + the metal shaft. rather on the metal parts... it just makes it slightly more difficult to engage the button... Works for me.