datacommando

Huh? Ya don’t have to lose ‘em. Stick “‘em in an fx loop on the HX Stomp and you can still use ‘em. I was considering buying a Big Sky or H9 just for a couple of effects, and there are some reasonable simulations on the MultiStomp 70CDR that do the job, so if I ever need them in a preset I hook up some send and return cables in stereo and patch in the little cheapo Zoom pedal and away we go. No problem. Not sure about that Russian hack to import the other stuff from other Zoom products. Maybe I'm cynical, because that hack doesn’t work on a Mac. Hope this helps/makes sense.

DI is absolutely correct, but you could also try here: https://helixhelp.com/models Select from the drop down menus on the left. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I have 3 different types of stereo loopers available, a Ditto x4, a Boss RC30, and a cheapo Ammoon. Obviously these are not connected all at the same time, different units for different jobs. Essentially you can place your looper wherever you want for the best result - depends what you are doing. For example, the Ditto x4, or Ammoon, I have previously used in the stereo FXLoop 1/2 after any distortion, compression, amplification, cab emulation and modulation but before any delays and reverb.This way any audio in the loop doesn't chop off unexpectedly when the loop is switched off - the delay and reverb keep it going. This is simply a personal thing and it works how I want it. The other example is the Boss RC Loop Station which I put at the the end all the other processing, apart from possibly a short reverb, simply because it has a very simple built in rhythm and FX section. If I had those running into delay block it would get very messy, very quickly. The main thing to bear in mind is a looper is not an effect it is a recording device, so in reality there are no rules. Where you patch in your looper is entirely what works for you, many people simply place it right at the end of all other processing, but if you were going for the ambient thing, place it before the delays as you may prefer to play around turning effects on and off to create more of a soundscape. Besides which, overdubbing lots of audio that has already been processed by delay and reverb soon become just audio mulch. I hope this helps/makes sense

Good idea - the correct tools to do the job. Happy Podcasting.

Sigh... The post by Digital Igloo, from 3 years ago, explains why not - and when it come to this sort of MIDI stuff - he is the man!

Looks like both “MartinDorr” and “qwerty42” beat me to it, but here I go. It is fairly obvious that this isn't down to Apple. It is their proprietary item for adding a class compliant USB port function to their iPhones which run iOS and cannot load any drivers that may otherwise be required. This is to enable iPhone users to transfer photos and of course get audio signals out of the iPhone. Whereas, the USB port on the Line 6 range of products are an (old) industry standard, and their items work right out of the box. When you first mentioned the USB - Lightning cable, I should have immediately realised that was wrong. How do you connect a regular Lightning to a type A USB plug into the Line 6 type B socket? That bit seems to have been missed out in your first post. Furthermore, you state that your “camera kit” is brand new. Have you tested it? Connect it to a digital camera/computer and see if the iPhone can transfer some photographs. That was the primary idea of the ACCK, if it is new, and provided you haven’t damaged it, you can simply have it replaced. When someone sells something, it must be fit for purpose, i.e. shuttle photos to and from a camera, a computer and the phone. If it doesn’t, simply get a refund or replacement.

Hi again, Mike, As noted by Martin in his post, I don’t understand the Lightning to USB cable thing either. They are for charging iPhones. I have a stack of them around the house and would never consider using them for this purpose. There is a reason that Apple charges the price they do for the Camera Connection Kit. If you could do it with a cheap NO NAME Lightning to USB, everyone would be using them. Possibly that’s why every reference to patching an iPhone to Helix specifically states using the ACCK. Any specific brand - well, you can probably guess. Right, I’m finishing this beer and closing down for tonight. Regards A Wellwisher.

Hi Angus, By those “small screens”, I guess you are referring to the scribble strips above the foot switches. When you start out with a new preset, they will remain blank until you assign an effect block to the footswitch which will then show what you have chosen for example FS1 and Script Phaser. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Mmm... not sure why it's not there and I hadn't noticed till you just mentioned it. All the legacy effects were supposed to have been ported over from the older POD HD500 and M series of FX. I don't know if pre-delay was an option on the M units and if it wasn't on those maybe that's the version which was brought over. I'm also not sure if "Intensity" actually work the same as "Pre-Delay", but there is quite a difference in the sound when it is set to 10% or then 70%. I'm unable to do a direct comparison between the 2 versions of the Helix and HD without doing a lot of re-plugging and cabling to check. They might have changed some bits, but those nice Line 6 boffins added a high, low cut and trails option that wasn't in the HD boxes. I just had look at the M series parameter guide and for the Octo verb the options were: Decay, Time in milliseconds, Tone and Mix. Different again!

I can't see that AnyTune Pro+ could be an issue, it's just a glorified "Amazing Slowdowner". It will block any DRM content, but if you have used it before with your Hartke then it must work as a regular playback app. I would make sure that your Helix can communicate via USB to your computer. If it does - great. If not, swap the cable and test again. Still nothing, then your USB in/out might be fried, although, I don't think I've come across that happening to anyone in the 5 years that the Helix has been around. Do then same thing with your iPhone, you need to be certain that the audio is being spit out of the Lightning port via USB. Garageband is free on the iPhone so check that it can send audio out of the Lightning slot. Whatever you find must be the solution. I still remain - truly baffled!

Oh, some cool jazz in your vid. Yay! Yep, it just works, so I really cannot figure out why "MikeD68"is unable to get this to work. Baffled!

Well, I did exactly what I said I would 14 hours ago. Went down to the studio, turned on the Helix, connected the built in Lightning cable of ACCK to iPhone, and the USB plug from Helix into the other end of it in the slot marked with a camera icon. Loaded GarageBand (free on every iPhone), selected a software keyboard, tinkled the virtual ivories and - as predicted - it just works. This is the interface that I have for this and for use with my Canon EOS cameras. I don't know if this is the gizmo that you tried? https://www.apple.com/uk/shop/product/MK0W2ZM/A/lightning-to-usb-3-camera-adapter?afid=p238|smvif5ThI-dc_mtid_187079nc38483_pcrid_432493523477_pgrid_103369707551_&cid=aos-uk-kwgo-pla-btb--slid---product-MK0W2ZM/A-UK EDIT: Added Pic If your USB connection looks like this at the Helix end - that's fine. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Huh? I went to check that out. Selected Helix under the “All Hardware” drop down, then selected Drivers from “All Software” followed by Windows 10 under “All OS”, clicked “GO” . This takes you the download and first item is the Driver version 1.95 for fixing the G hub crash. I clicked the Get Download button went to the EULA page and hit “Accept and Download” and the auto download stated - 20 second later there it was. Surprising thing about this - I did it using an iPad, so I don’t understand how you can’t get it to work for you. Hope this helps/makes sense EDIT: Try this link https://www.dropbox.com/s/tx518t7gjbguzu8/Line 6 Driver2 Helix v1.95 Installer.exe?dl=0

That is the way to do it when you are on the move - Bonne chance dans vos recherches.

I’m not surprised - some folks call it Farce Book ;-) Good luck.

I did say that I had nothing else to offer, but you still haven’t said if you have tried to eliminate possible culprits, as suggested by “HonestOpinion” in his post above. Without checking the suspects you can’t solve this. In the studio my Helix has been hooked up via USB to my Mac doing the 2 way traffic job with audio for 5 years, no problem. I also use my iPad Air2 and iPhone SE with the Apple Camera Kit to successfully record and playback guitars into each of them - once more no problem. Tomorrow, I will take the pad or the phone into the studio and use the ACCK to plug into the Helix USB. If it works just like the video, what then? Just a thought, and as it is approaching midnight here, I will finish this beer and go to bed. Try all the possible options and eliminate.

OK, that’s fine - it was only an idea, and I’m unable to test the theory right now - although it should just work! I decided to dig a bit deeper an found a post from Digital Igloo (Eric Klein, Chief Product Design Architect - Yamaha Guitar Group - Line 6 - Ampeg) - Note: this comment is 4 years old - May 2016 “But it really depends on what you're connecting: Apple/Google smartphone or tablet, Mac/PC, iPod Touch, or anything else supporting class-compliant audio - Just connect it via USB and Helix will route it directly to its outputs with no additional D/A/D conversion (plus it sounds better!)” Now, from what you have said in your first post I would try another USB cable. Other than that I have nothing more to offer. Hope this helps/makes sense. Original thread here:

I know that. I did say that I’m in the house, not the studio, so I couldn’t check it out. I use an Apple Camera Kit and an iRig2 to record ideas onto both my iPad and iPhone without any issues. I have never tried to patch either of them to the Helix, but with the Camera Kit and iRig I can get straight into Garageband or AmpliTube without any other messing around. I haven’t tried to connect to anything that isn’t using “the software” as part of the deal, therefore my guess was that it maybe that the iPhone needs to be pointed to an external device to “see” it. Hope this helps/makes sense. ;-)

I’m not in the studio right now and therefore can’t check this out. I have to ask, does your iPhone know that it needs to communicate with the outside world. When you swipe down from the top right, it should bring up a bunch of options, one of which is for music. Right now in the house if I drag down and go to the music icon, also sees another two devices in the house on the wireless network and I can choose to use them for audio playback. Just an idea, check it out. Hope this helps/makes sense.

It's great to know how happy you are with your Helix LT. The down side is that this is a forum for fellow user, and only occasionally does anyone from Line 6 drop in here, so your gratitude may well easily be missed. Having said that Digital Igloo did leave a comment in this forum last night, but it's more likely that you would catch the attention of DI or Frank over on TGP Helix forum or even on the huge Helix family FaceBook group. https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/page-3384#post-31285428 https://www.facebook.com/groups/line6helixusergroup/?multi_permalinks=1631522600364740 You could go to either of those places and post your message FAO Frank Ritchotte, Sn Director of Operations, Yamaha Guitar Group or Eric Klein (Digital Igoo), Chief Product Design Architect, Yamaha Guitar Group/Line 6/Ampeg. In here it will probably fall on stoney ground. Enjoy your Helix, and welcome to the club.

It should be simple enough. The Helix LT has 4 stereo paths. Plug your guitar in to the regular guitar input and, for instance, use the return sockets to patch in your Bass and Moog. You could use the 1/4 inch outs for the stereo guitar and the Sends 1 & 2 can be used for output (or the XLRs) to route your bass and synth to the stagerack. The overall DSP usage would depend on what amps, cabs and FX you want to deploy. It all depends on what your are hoping to achieve, but hooking it all up is not too complex, although it is possible to push things too far. There are several users on here that have keyboards and drum machines, along with their guitars, running just fine. You need to figure out a little more now. Download the Owner’s Manual and read through that. Hope this helps/makes sense

Sorry, but this appears rather garbled to me and don't make any sense whatsoever. "this is what I am experiencing" Huh? What, exactly are you experiencing? Not able to reassign a foot switch? And the solution you stumble on is to erase the preset? No! Incorrect. The "Clear All Blocks" command does exactly that. If you click on Clear All Blocks" then click OK, they are gone, no more cleared - you will have an empty preset. They will be erased! All that will remain is the name that had been give to that preset's slot. What was being discussed in this thread (which is over a year old), was using HX Edit to remove foot switch controller assignments from a preset. Again something that is not very difficult to understand. If your intention is simply to create an empty preset you can use the "copy and paste" function in HX Edit to duplicate a "New Preset" slot. I'm going to guess that English is not your first language, so forgive me if I sound harsh, but this stuff is very basic and saying that "The upgrade needs to be more customer friendly...Lol." is simply wrong. The best thing to do is read the manuals for the hardware and the Editor software, then you can avoid erasing things when you don't mean to. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Welcome to Helix world. Those ideas given by ”rd2rk”, in the post above, are a really good place to start. For a little more in-depth info about the models that are included in the hardware, this is a really good source. https://helixhelp.com Bookmark this one - you will want to keep going back. Hope this helps/makes sense.

PLUS THIS THREAD WAS STARTED IN OCTOBER 2018! You’re looking at page 3. Just saying!

The update will reset the Globals anyway. See the other reset options in my post above. ;-)