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jws1982

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Everything posted by jws1982

  1. Welcome! I assume you’re wanting to use HX effects to control them, right? And, you want them placed appropriately in the effects chain, as opposed to “parallel†like if you used a mixer? I guess you could get An effects switch like a boss es-5 and run two loops for the HX effects (in-to-loop out, and loop in-to out). Then, run your pedals individually to it as well. You would at least be able to position the two stereo effects in the chain to a degree.
  2. Your bass player could use a sansamp, m9, etc... before the helix. Then they could go into the aux-in from that. It would free up some DSP, give them foot access to some effects, and work better than plugging an instrument straight into the aux-in.
  3. My experience with the legacy effects so far is that the DSP usage is comparable to HX-level effects, some actually using more DSP. For example, I found that I could add an HX Screamer to a patch that was close to dsp limit, but not the legacy Screamer. I was hoping for significantly less dsp usage on legacy effects, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. It’s understandable though, as the details of the port-over aren’t really known to us. They may be able to make them more efficient later, but right now I’m very glad to just have them.
  4. Helix Floor. 2.30-2.50 upgrade. Just noticed that elephant man delay uses 1/8 delay time whether you set it to 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or 1/1 on 2.50 firmware. I don’t know if it did that on previous firmware versions. Other delays worked fine for me. I haven’t done any restores or resets after the firmware upgrade. Anyone else able to reproduce this? Oh, and the Friedman model is fantastic!
  5. +1 routing is so much more capable on the helix. After some practice, you’ll likely be able to set up a single patch that routes separate individually EQ’ed signals to the PA, your guitar amp, and your monitor / ears. Pod HD had the limitation of amp/can being a single block no matter what. Helix can separate them. You’ll need to do this to run a proper signal to your amp and the PA simultaneously. I gig 99% of the time with just my helix, no amp. I run my guitar and vocals through it. Path 1A/B is for guitar, 2A for synth stuff or extra guitar effects, and Path 2B is just for vocals. I send guitar and vocals to FOH separately usings the sends, then add any additional EQ/effects I want for my in-ears which are fed by the XLR/multi outs. The flexibility of the helix is just wonderful.
  6. +1. I actually custom made one of these a while back from a USB cable and a female 1/4" jack. A much needed part for this system. I think line6 goofed when they planned this product for just home-based use. Many guitarists, including myself, hate body-pack transmitters. I want a bug-style transmitter (the g10t is excellent), super-simple operation, and a receiver that can be powered via USB or the current pedalboard standards. The g10 system is so close to the wireless system that pretty much every guitarist I know, who doesn't tour regularly, wants. Give it more flexiblilty to power the receiver, an easy way to charge the transmitter, and slightly better range, and you've got the best selling wireless system. The bug charging is fixed with this new cable. Neither of the other two would be hard to do. Perhaps there's a version 2 in the works. Oh, and L6, if you're going with USB power, give it a standard sized B connector. Something with some meat to it. I know I'll soon be modding my g10 receiver's USB input, because it is going to fail.
  7. Does it just make less noise when plugged into a guitar, or no noise at all?
  8. Change the wireless frequency channel your wifi router is using. Almost all routers, except for some really cheap ones or those included with your internet service, will allow you to select a channel for your wifi to use. They're set to "auto" by default. Change it to a manual setting, and try everything out again. You'll likely find one that doesn't interfere with the relay g10, and probably gives you better wireless coverage in your home. Granted, the g10 should find a clean channel on its own. But, wireless frequency auto-selection isn't perfect.
  9. PC USB ports supply 0.5A of power at 5v. The G10 wants to see 1A. A typical phone wall-charger with a USB port puts out 1A or more now, so try using that if you have one around.
  10. On an mki, you just have to count it yourself and just get it as close as possible. On an mkii, you will need to get the tempo of the song, and use that to calculate the correct bpm for a dotted eight. There's online tempo calculators that will do that for you. Note: oops! Thread is from last year. Oh well, answered anyways.
  11. Look up "voltage step down converters". Find one that accepts 9v input, and has 5v output of at least 1A. Wire that in between your 9v pedalboard power, and your relay g10.
  12. My guess would be that they had a bad batch of lithium battery cells. Those cells, when fully charged, aren't hitting the voltage that the transmitter expects to see when fully charged. So, it keeps trickle-charging the battery (any decent lithium charging circuit should slow down as full charge approaches) to try and get it up to that voltage. Either that, or the lithium cell is just plain bad and won't hold a charge.
  13. No dropout issues for me at all, but I'm never further than 30 feet from the unit at any of my gigs. That's one of the many reasons I went with the g10. The auto frequency selection helps prevent dropouts too.
  14. Interesting stuff on your active guitars. I'd be curious to see what the wiring differences are between the two.
  15. Final result: works great. Charged to full in a similar time as using the base. It indicated a full charge via solid green light. I tested with a 1A and 2.5A 5V AC adapters. No more pulling out the base to charge. Now I'll use my iPhone charger, or charge it on the way to the gig in my car.
  16. Finished. I modified a USB cable and put a 1/4" female TRS jack on the end. Soldered ground (black and bare) to the sleeve, and 5v (red) to the ring. Testing now using an iPhone AC adapter, and working great. Will update with the final results.
  17. Im considering making a separate charger using a 5v source (like an USB AC adapter) and a 1/4" stereo jack. I think all the charging circuitry is contained within the transmitter, and the receiver is just pushing 5v to it using the 1/4" TRS plug. So, my theory is to put +5v to the ring on the TRS, and - to the sleeve. If it's actually this simple, then I could make a charger out of a cheap AC adapter, and a TRS jack. I have that stuff lying around.
  18. +1 I have a couple stereo-to-mono jacks, and one mono-to-mono jack, that I use as extenders if needed. They both have worked great.
  19. +1 on the negative being the 5v micro USB. You could get a step-down converter like this one (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1385) and use a standard 9v power supply, then you could wire it into a pedal board. Or, you could get a battery pack like this (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-13000-Portable-Charger/dp/B00Z9QVE4Q?ie=UTF8&ref_=zg_bs_7073960011_1), mount the Relay G10 on top of it, and use a short USB cable to connect it. That battery pack would power the unit for a long time. A right-angle usb connector is also nice for the unit, to help prevent damage if the cord gets yanked or stepped on.
  20. Pod Farm 2.57 ilok. Windows 7 x64, Focusrite Saffire 6 USB. When I start the standalone application, and it opens the previously used preset, it will come have a much louder volume output that is clipping the output badly. To fix it, I have to load a preset with a different amp / effects models, then come back to the original preset. For example, I have a custom patch using a dual amp mesa/deisel sound with a mic pre and compressor on each. The volume output knob is at its default setting, and the meters read half-way with peaks around 2/3's up. If i close POD Farm, then re-open it, it brings up the same preset, volume levels and everything. However, now, the output is so loud that it's constantly clipping. One I load a completely different preset, then re-load the original, it works fine again. When running via VST in my DAW, this does not happen. So far it's only on the standalone app. I've tried completely removing POD Farm and all remaining traces in the Programdata, Users/appdata folder, documents folder, etc..., but no help. I can duplicate the issue on another Windows 7 x64 machine to, using the same audio interface. I have not tried another interface with ilok. But, when I use my old toneport ux8 with Pod Farm 2, the issue doesn't happen. I guess it could be related to the interface, but I don't see how. What do you guys think?
  21. IEC inlet fuse was blown. I also found that the tube bias was way too hot. The tubes tested fine in another amp, but I went ahead and replaced them in case of damage. With new tubes, a new fuse, and a re-bias, everything's working great again.
  22. Ahhhhh!!!! I totally forgot about the fuse built into the IEC inlet! Thanks for the reminder. I'll check it tonight. Then I get to find the actual problem that caused it to blow...
  23. Hey guys, I had my first problem out of my DT25 the other day, and it's a good one. I turned it on, flipped the standby switch after it warmed up, got a loud hum from the speakers, then the amp shut off completely after a second or two. Now it doesn't come on at all. No power light, no sounds, pops, tube glow, nothing. The tube protection fuse on the outside is fine (i replaced it just to verify), power cord's fine, tubes are fine (replaced those to verify as well), and speaker is fine. It was plugged into the amp properly too. I haven't had much time to troubleshoot otherwise, but I did pull the chassis for a few minutes. All wires/connections I could see looked good. I didn't see any burn marks on the PCB's or components. The problem feels like something early in the flow of the power section, like a blown fuse or component. I guess i need to break out the multimeter and check some things. Before I do though, are there any other internal fuses, or typical components that fail, that I should check first? I must confess that I've never really dug into the internals of this amp, other than to bias the tubes. It's been super-reliable so far, taking beatings from being lugged around for over a year. For the time being, I've been using my backup amp, a Spider Valve 212 1st gen. I must say, the POD HD500 going into the amp input of it sounds very good. :) It stinks having to lug it through downtown Nashville though, even on a cart. If I can't get the DT25 working again for a decent price, I may search out an SV 112 1st gen to replace it.
  24. If I were mic'ing this for live use, I would most likely place a mic perpendicular to the amp, in-between the woofer and one mid-bass/tweeter, a few inches away from the amp. Then, adjust location for best sound. It's not always the easiest to mic a multi-speaker cabinet, but it can be done. If the amp is primarily used for situations where it needs to be mic'ed, then I would recommend instead checking out the Spider IV or Spider Valve, or POD HD/DT combos. They'll lend themselves to those situations much better. It seems like the Amplifi is more for home and jamming use.
  25. The amp is essentially a POD running into a powered speaker cabinet. So yes, it is a full-range full-response (FRFR) speaker cabinet, and all speakers are used for guitar. The modeling section applies a guitar amp, speaker cabinet, and mic model to the sound. So, it'll still sound like a regular guitar amp. Run anything guitar-related, like guitars and pedals, into the guitar input on top.
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