jws1982

If by legit you mean “sounds like I’m playing a regular tube guitar amp”, then going through any powered guitar speaker cabinet with a decent power amp section will do it. I use the power amp in on my old spider valve 212. Use any amp model (NOT amp+cab) and have at it. If you use a solid state power amp, then it needs lots of wattage / headroom. The power amp dynamics will come from the helix amp model, but a quality solid state power amp is needed to accurately reproduce them. A tube amp works well too, but they can add a lot of color to the sound. I use the spider valve because it balances the above nicely. 40 watt tube amp that was designed to be transparent. Swap the V30 speakers if you want for something else, and go for it. Instant “valid” tone.

+1 Helix LT. Unless you have a specific form factor need for the dual stomp / effects combo, a Helix LT would be the better setup. I’d do it just for the built-in power supply alone.

I’d consider moving into modeling in steps. For example, first getting a helix LT and running it into your tube amp’s effects return. That’ll get you use to the amp and effects models while not deviating too much from what you’re used to already. Then, once you’re comfortable with that, you can start digging into the other side: cab models / IR’s and using a wedge or other monitor live. This is the part many guitarists associate negatively with modeling because they have no experience producing finished studio-style mic’ed tones, or playing along with those tones in a live setting.

Sounds like a small mixer like a Mix5 or XENYX 802 would be an easier solution. Run the headphone out of the stomp into one channel, and the monitor mix feed into another. Blend to taste, and plug your headphones into the mixer.

- Helix Floor - HX Stomp & 2-button footswitch mounted to a small board (backup unit) - HX Stomp power supply and little cables - two 1/4” guitar cables - two IEC power cords - iPhone mic stand holder - Leatherman wave - my favorite earplugs and picks - small power strip On the hookups, either would work. The output signal from the helix is much stronger than a guitar, so any interference would be minimal. I prefer hitting a DI pretty quick though.

When that “boot failure. Enter update mode” appears during the update process, you are supposed to hit “ok” on the message in the line 6 updater software on your computer. I left mine running and walked away, only to come back and nothing had changed. As soon as I hit “ok”, the update continued.

Bug on Helix Floor, 2.80. Using foot/stomp edit mode. No other expression pedals plugged in. When I change a parameter value using the pedal, the pedal simultaneously changes the parameter value and the EXP2 value. It's only supposed to change the parameter value. Since I have EXP2 assigned to a volume block in my patches, when I use the foot/stomp editor, my volume goes up and down while i tweak effect parameters. Oh, I'll also confirm the pops when switching between presets, and the audible fade-in/gap when switching IR's. Mine does both of these too.

I solder in new ones when they start failing. If you can’t solder, find someone local who can. Those 6mm switches are commonplace. Anyone who’s good at soldering will know what they are and how to properly replace them. Pulling the helix apart is relatively easy as well.

I sometimes do this exact setup. Floor wedge pointed up at me. Works great. I just make sure that the wedge isn’t pointed directly at my vocal mic, and that my vocal mic is also pointed up some. Other times I’m running the FRFR right in front of me in the traditional wedge monitor position. Always depends on the gig and sound system.

perhaps it’s possible that: - with the two separate blocks, the amp output is sent out in stereo, then re-combined going into the cab block. This would attribute a volume increase which could be described as “fullness” depending on your listening source and volume. - with the amp/cab combo block, the “stereo output summed back to mono” never happens. ...or, perhaps you’re crazy and hearing things. :)

This has to do with the positioning of the rubber feet on the bottom of the helix. The end caps make it so that they didn’t put feet on the very ends of the unit. You can can remedy this with some 3M dual lock and a small block of wood. Cut a block of wood to form to the helix end cap, and use the 3M lock to attach it to the end cap. It doesn’t have to hold the weight of the helix, rather just keep it from lifting. It’s kind of like a sideways wheelie-bar. :)

How are you powering the g10? Are you using a USB port on your computer? That will introduce noise. Use a separate usb power supply for it.

The stage environments downtown Nashville would be the difference here. They are just plain dirty, and that dirt makes its way into the equipment. I actually checked the heavier pressure idea out as well. The rigidity of the helix structure appeared to negate any effects from heavy pressure. And, as you probably know, the footswitches are designed to press the tactile switch with the same pressure regardless of how hard you stomp on the footswitch. All that said, I’m not a “heavy switcher” by any means. I’m pretty sure it’s just debris and time causing the issue. The tactile switches that fail are the ones I use more often. They’re usually covered in dirt and debris on the interior of the unit. ...I guess that dirt/debris could be metal shavings from the footswitch itself over time too. The helix floor design does appear to be more “sealed up” against dirt getting in. Overall the interior of my device is very clean after years of use, save for right on and around the tactile switches. I clean off the exterior at least once a week with a dry towel, slightly damp if needed. Nashville’s just dirty. :)

Before I start, let me say that I love the helix and L6’s products. I remember reading about the helix’s new footswitches when it first came out; they were new and indestructible! When I got my helix floor, I wanted to see the new design. So, I popped off the back panel and end cap, and looked inside. Great, solid construction for the entire thing, ... except, the same old 6mm tactile button switches. :( I knew they would start to fail eventually, and they did, just like any other piece of gear I’ve gigged with that uses them. I’m pretty good at soldering new ones in, so it doesn’t bother me much. But, it’d be nice to not have a weak link in the footswitch design. Basically they just get dirty and worn out. I’ve replaced two on my helix so far. Hmmm, perhaps I can devise a way to seal / cover them so the dirt doesn’t get in.

9/10 I have it set up as a floor wedge when I play. It always depends on the band and venue I’m with, but it’s usually floor wedge.

Four people using similar wireless systems at the same time should be using manual channel selection. The G10 wasn’t designed with live playing in mind. This is why the G10s has the option to manually select a channel.

Full compass or sweetwater

Indeed they do. I just replaced the tap tempo switch on my helix floor. It crapped out first. Almost all the line 6 products I've owned over the years have had at least one of their switches start to fail. I love 'em, but I've come to accept it as part of owning Line 6 products. Helix is no different. On Helix Floor, the switches are all on one PCB along with the scribble strips. Remove the two screws per footswitch assembly on the back of the PCB, the ground cable screw on the top-right, disconnect the two ribbon cables, and the board comes right out. Make sure the leave the Helix itself upside down, or the small springs and pads will fall out of the footswitch assemblies. You definitely don't want to lose those. I picked up a 100 pack of the small switches on Amazon for under $10. They're the same as the ones you'd buy from Full Compass. I just solder a new one in when needed.

Nope, not unless: 1. Line 6 makes a stereo EQ effect that has separate controls for left and right 2. You split your signal into two chains after the FX return, pan hard L and R, and put an EQ block on both signal chains.

Yes they’ll be the same. note that you only need a mono block at the end of the chain to make it mono. Some effects, like post-amp reverbs and delays, can sound better / fuller with their stereo versions. You can collapse them to mono by putting a mono block at the end of the chain. A volume pedal set to 0 gain would do the job.

I feel like a Radial Pro d2 DI box should be a standard purchase with every helix. Guaranteed best sound and compatibility with any PA system. ...come to think of it, why aren’t the XLR outs on the helix floor / LT just part of a built-in stereo DI box?

I hope Line 6 keeps coming out with their own custom amp model designs. Their current ones are well respected, which makes a great foundation for releasing more. I’d honestly rather see this than see more models of existing amps. I’d love to see more of the unique stuff you can do with modeling that you wouldn’t see in physical tube amps.

The tap tempo switch is the only one that gives me trouble sometimes. Sometimes it’ll not register the press, and sometimes it’ll register two or more presses. I’ll set the tap tempo, then find that it’s set to something ridiculously fast. Or, I’ll try to bring up the tuner, it’ll come up, then immediately go away when I release the footswitch. I don’t know if this is due to a bad footswitch, as I don’t really use any of the other footswitches the same way. Perhaps it’s just a design flaw in the switch itself. L. It’s not a big deal, but it can make for some interesting unexpected sounds with a delays and other modulation effects. :)

Cool. I’m going to test this on mine at home tonight as well.

I still have problems with helix being properly recognized on various PC’s, USB hubs or not. I keep an older laptop running win10 build 1709, base install, no updates or other software, just for connecting to helix. It works, so I’m not about to change a thing on it. :)