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That is an excellent recommendation and has been my approach with all Line 6 Edit applications as I have never trusted the software send...Pushing the Save button on the unit always saves the state of the hardware.

Soldano Clean is one of my favs...I have a DT50 and DT25...The AC30 model sounds better on the DT50....Soldano Clean sounds great on both...I have actually been using the JC120 pre quite a bit lately and on the DT25, that JC120 model sounds quite good to me...

Those unpredictable stage floor situation is the reason I use an HD Desktop with a shortboard...I would use a pro, but I prefer the small form-factor...The little POD sits on the back on the stage on top of my amp(s)...I still have the original green screen FBV and it is over 10 years old now...it's been fallen on, had beer spilled in it...you name it...stills works great...I have the MK2 also and tend to use it more these days...Both are great controllers I think...I have never been into having my tone on the floor...

You do not have to change presets everytime... You can program midi commands into an FS within a patch on the POD...make the command line up with your head and you head can change channels in the patch...Basically, your head has midi learning in it, so you really are not limited to PC commands...From what I recall, you can set reverb, channel, power with one command on that head and just tell the head what command to learn to trigger a whole setup on the head...

The easiest approach is to make sure they are not next to each other....With desktops, you will usually have a controller for a pair of ports and then the other might have 2 or 4 ports....Just a little experimentation and you can likely find something that works. One other thing you might could do that might be easier and remove the problem completely would be to put your printer on your network if you have one and the printer has that option...There are little USB to Wifi boxes you can get pretty cheap that would network enable a USB only printer...

If you added a USB printer, try just unplugging it and see if that helps...Generally, most PCs will have two USB master controllers. Each will have one or more ports assigned to it via a USB hub on the MB. What you want to try to do is insure that the POD is on it's own master separate from other devices...Anyway, just a thought...hope you can work this out...

tubes are NOT like transistors....The load will not draw more power...tubes are self-limiting and even if you short it, you are just going to wear the tubes a bit faster. Transistors are nothing like this, so I think you just took a little life off the tubes...mismatch low impedance is not a problem with tube amps...exactly backwards from solid-state. FYI, when you run a tube amp full power with program going thru it, the load will approach 0 ohms all the time...Impedance is not static thing... I am not a fan of resistor based attenuators (powersoaks)...If you lose a resistor, the impedance can go way high and then you can really damage the power section with all the extra flyback voltage....I would suggest you check out a Weber MASS or mini-mass...This is the only way I will attenuate an amp as there is no heat to worry about...Power is dissipated by motion, not heat...

If nothing has changed on your PC in a year, I would suggest checking your USB cable. Maybe contacts are a little oxidized...You could simply try another port... Have you added any USB devices (printers, scanners, cameras, NICs, wireless mouse etc...) to your system in the past year? Have you updated the chipset driver in your PC? BIOS Update?. chipset and bios updates can have a direct effect on USB.

Here's a thread...The plate voltage is somewhat high on these. http://line6.com/support/topic/12419-my-dt-25-bias-info

Well, those are not really issues...InputZ changes the impedance of the input....If you set it to AUTO, then the first block in the chain will set the input impedance to match what the model would do in real life. The prime example would be putting the weeper wah in the first block (CryBaby). A stock CryBaby has a very low tone sucking impedance that will make your tone darker. This is useful for some guitars like a really bright strat...But this can make things a little unpredictable...Most guitar amps have an input impedance of 1M....So if you just set it to 1M, then you should be fine....If you use an active guitar, then just set it to 1M...or 3M if you like it better...The higher the input impedance as it compares to you guitar output impedance, the more HiFi it will be...That is the simplest way I can think to state this InputZ thing for you. In terms of Input selection, generally setting input 2 to Same would only apply to Dual Tone patches....Setting Input 2 to Variax (or Aux on the 500) when you don't have one turns it off and generally seems to be a better approach for single tone patches....But there caveats...You can use this to drive an amp model harder....But there are cases where you can overdrive some FX models....The tape echo is a great example...The models render analog clipping and if you overload the chain....So you have to pay attention to the chain level the same way you would with the real stuff...Only it's somewhat more abstract since there is nothing to see and you might have to use your ears.... I would suggest that you read the Advanced Manual cover to cover....The HD can be a bit intimidating to get under. Simply put, It's not the right tool for all players...You have to give it what you think is a reasonable amount of time to learn....When time expires you have to decide if it's right for you.

An HD500 or HD500x is nearly EXACTLY the same as the HD Desktop in terms of available settings. The only real difference is the lack of the Line 6 link and midi. The HD400 is like the the Spider IV and Spider Valve modeling preamps in terms of setting and options....Different animal then the HD500, HD Pro and HD Desktop....Only models themselves are the same. The HD500X is a minor hardware revision from the HD500 and has slightly more DSP.

This is an old forum post about BBE Sonic Maximizers from around 10 years ago and conveys my opinion very nicely... The following is what will happen if you add a BBE to your rig... "Just a word of warning. Maximizers are the guitar gear equivalent of crack. The experience one goes through is identical: 1. The first hit: You hook it up and initially think "Oh MY GOD this the greatest thing EVER DOOOOOD!!!!!111!!!!1! I've found THE tone!" 2. You start using on a regular basis: Buy some model BBE, hook to rig, engage it 100% of the time. Rewrite all your patches. 3. You try to get your friends hooked: Dude, check out my rig, this thing takes it over the top!!!. 4. You go into addiction/denial: Friends think your tone has gone to sh*t but you think it is totally awesome. You start talking msinformed BS about different sound frequencies traveling at different velocities (hint: violation of Newtonian physics). 5. There is an intervention: Friend let's you A/B his non-maximizer rig versus yours in live setting, Yours sounds like over-processed dung, his rocks. He tells you, as a Bro, the BBE must go. You realize the BBE is a band aid for guitar tone and not even a good one at that. 6. You go into rehab: Another "like new" BBE xx2 unit hits eBay. 7. Regret: I wasted a sh*tload of time futzing with my rig, patches, etc, and my tone isn't any better and I'm back to square one. I Wonder what GE-7 pedals are going for these days. Maybe you should avoid the whole thing. If you must post-process your modelling tone I would strongly suggest an EQ. It's much more versatile and will be long usable after the BBE is gone." - kdog circa 2005-6 I think...my favorite post ever about BBEs...

You can even make morphing tones using an expression pedal or a switch in the expression jack. One example would be a crunchy tone where you might want a lead tone on the same model you crunch on. It takes a little time, but once you know what the settings are for each tone in the model, you can set all the amp parms Min and Max values so a single amp model will change on the fly within a patch between two tonestack setups....You can even assign all FX parms and have the entire chain morph...Real nice when 100% seamless transitions are needed...

No link in the desktop. I use this setup quite a bit. Power amp in and stick with Class AB NFL3 Pentode...I have the DT-25 head and cab and use it with BOSS pedals on it and a channel switch...

you actually can do this. You just need a speaker line rated direct box to leech a line level signal off the amp's speaker output. If your amp is Solid-State, no worries...If you have a tube amp, you would need something like Weber Mini-Mass to keep the load right.

My answer is the same. midi echo is a setting in the interface driver. Basically, you have to open the interface applet and turn echo off. What this looks like likely depends in the interface that you have since the driver dictates this. Maybe if you post what type of midi interface you have, we would be better able to offer you some guidance? This is something I found about midi echo as it relates to Logic. https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4225691?tstart=0

make sure that your interface does NOT have echo turned on. This is interface specific. Old Edirol USB-> midi interfaces were notorious for having echo on by default and cause countless issues back in the old Flextone III and Vetta II days. A little app like midiOX might help sort that out.

I have gotten to the bottom of it for myself...Please take or leave my answer. I hope it helps you a bit as there really isn't a single answer for this. Input 2=Same is the default. This was chosen so that dual tones would have the best chance of working without the user having to visit the Setup Menu. However, there are some effect models that will actually model clipping if you run a single amp chain since the input is doubled. However, this additional level is actually beneficial in some cases for some models. The simplest example of this that I can give would be the Park model. This is a very low gain amp that has an amazing breakup is you can manage to slam the front of the amp model with a lot of level. In terms of cleaning up the HD Bean for a single tone path, set Input 2=Mic and turn the mic trim all the way down. This also offers the best noise floor since Input 2=Same on a single amp path doubles it... Anyway, that's my opinion. good luck.

big strong hands with .013-.058 strings tuned down to Eb is where it starts.

HD PODs don't have the feature of turning on/off with pedal movement/position. Only the toe switch. I think the new Helix can do that.

Couldn't you just put the PC msg at the beginning of each song in the sequence? I have done that in recording situations re-amping guitar tracks thru midi controlled rigs. PC first, followed by the CCs....If you arm your midi track, you should be able to record all your changes you need per song.

ah, an SM57...tons of low end...I prefer 45 degrees about halfway between the dust cover edge and the surround of the speaker and remove the grille if possible...45 degrees help take out the harsh highs and tames the huge amount of lowend a 57 can pickup...I would suggest experimenting with the mic position before adding pre-processing to recording...

One thing to keep in mind is that the POD HD Bean does NOT have midi ports...I noticed you mentioned that in your post and not sure of midi is needed for you or not...That was a bummer on the HD Bean...

Doing the same thing over and over expecting a different result is...or leads to...insanity...blank screen...unreliable behavior even after reflashing...sounds like a hardware problem....I would exchange it for a new one...but that can prove to be difficult for early adopters.

just an approximation... 240 watts would give you about +3 db of headroom over 120 watts 480 watts would give you about +3 db of headroom over 120 watts so, you have about +6 db of additional headroom... if you use the POD XLRs you would need to set the speaker to MIC as the XLR outs are fixed running at MIC level.