silverhead

If you haven't done so already please make sure you open a support ticket with Line 6 so they can work with you to resolve these issues while the driver is in beta.

Glad to hear it!

No that won't work. Although the cable is a standard Ethernet cable the data it carries is not in the ITP protocol. Line 6 uses a proprietary protocol and your computer will not be able to understand the data. Furthermore, Workbench is designed to use a USB, not RJ-45, connection at your computer.

I think one or more of your tonestack knobs (Drive, Bass, etc....) is dirty. This can cause false movement signals to be picked up by the POD. The Pod thinks a knob has moved, shows the appropriate temporary display, and then flags the preset as changed/edited. For today, try vigorously rotating all knobs back and forth from max to min values. This may clean things up enough for tonight. Another thing to do is to 'park' the knobs at their min position while during the gig. This somehow makes it less likely that the Pod will pick up the false signals, and hence the display remains stable. If those little tricks don't work it's time for some contact spray cleaner.

Or perhaps a phone call to tech support. They could probably walk you through your immediate questions and hurdles. The support info is on the same page as the manuals link in the support section, called Contact Technical Support.

There is also a manual for the Edit program........ I'm not trying to discourage you from asking questions, but after becoming familiar with the manuals and the basic operations you will be able to answer many of your questions yourself (more quickly than coming here) and when you get stuck you you'll be able to ask more specific questions and provide the relevant background info more easily.

Ummm.... this is the very basic operational stuff which is described much more fully and clearly in the manual than I could do here. You really need to read it - at least the HD500 Quick Start (Pilot's) Guide. The Advanced Guide provide more details. You don't need to read them start to finish but you do need to become familiar enough with them that you can use them for reference as required. You will find the downloadable manuals in the Support section of this website (see link at top of this page). Choose Technical Support, then Manuals. Select POD HD500 as the product and you will be provided with links to the manuals. I don't mean to brush your question off, but there's really no point in me trying to document the very basic operational procedures. They're already there, written by professional document writers. I can't do it better.

Can you be more specific about what you are trying to do? Add FX to the preset, or have the display show the FX on/off switches? Check your setup menus, page 1. What is your setting for FS Mode? Have you tried changing it?

The M5 has stereo inputs and outputs. In each case one of them is labeled Mono. That's the input/output you should use if the M5 is being connected in series with other pedals.

What mobile device are you using? Check the Privacy - Microphone settings and make sure your Sonic Port is enabled.

Not there yet. Expected in a future editor update.

What computer and OS are you using? What is your internet connection (cable/DSL modem, wireless, satellite, ..)?

Check the pins/wires in the VDI socket on your Pod HD500X. If any of them look bent, create a little J-hook out of a twist-tie that you might have lying around. Use this to carefully straighten out the bent wires.

I do that in many patches, too. I find, though, that to maintain a consistent overall volume level you also have to assign the amp's channel volume or a separate Vol FX in the opposite direction to the same pedal. In other words, as you increase the amp gain you have to simultaneously decrease the amp/path volume.

Yes. If we're going to worry about the quality of PCBs from China I would worry more about the ones controlling the brakes on my car than the ones in my guitar gear.

Here is a link to a couple of videos and associated patches from one of our members (thanks PeterHamm!!). http://line6.com/support/topic/17643-acoustic-and-electric-at-the-same-time-with-helix/?view=findpost&p=130407 He demonstrates using electric and acoustic guitars in one patch but you can use the patch structure and substitute your own amps and FX as desired. Just make sure you understand the pedal setup and be able to recreate it before you remove the Amp/FX that the pedal controls.

My Helix Rack came with a USB cable.

The preset will use whatever IR is present in the specified slot/location number. If the slot is empty then no IR is applied. Pretty much the same thing that happens when you call up an empty preset in the User setlist. It's still a preset and Helix has no problem loading no amps and FX into its audition buffer and playing the resulting dry signal from your guitar. Similarly, Helix does not object to loading an empty IR into the IR block.

I think the short answer is No. You can only have one instance of the looper in any preset, so it has to be in one path or the other. You can't assign a looper to each path and the single looper can't simultaneously record two independent paths. You would have to merge the paths before the looper, which I guess defeats the purpose.

The only other cable that came with a brand new X3 was a standard printer-style USB cable. You can pick one of those up at most audio or electronics/computer store.

Use the version of the Helix app that you have before updating to 1.11. Back up all setlists individually using the Export Setlist command repeatedly, once for each setlist. There is really no need to backup your IRs since you already have them as wav files somewhere - that's the only way they got into your Helix in the first place. However, you might find it convenient to rename each IR to include its IR# as a prefix to the name. This number/location for each IR is important because that's how it is referenced in Helix presets, yet it is not part of the information that is exported with the IR/wav file. This will help you restore your IRs to their correct location after updating firmware.

You can open a support ticket to report the bug. Meantime..... There's a workaround.

Sorry - I don't think anyone can help you with that. At some point you either jump off the cliff or you don't. :lol: Do you haul two sets of analogue gear now, in case something in the first set fails? If not, how relaxed were you the first time out with you non-gig-tested analogue gear? Same situation, really. Once you get used to the new gear you will be relaxed with it. Of course, someone gigging professionally should always have backup gear, whether analogue or digital.

Have you tried putting the IR in a split path? Try using an A/B split block and adjusting the mix of the signal routed to the dry path vs. the IR path. More specifically, create Path 1A to be your fully dry signal - no IR. Then place the IR where you want it in Path 1A and drag it down to create Path 1B. Change the split block to be an A/B Split and adjust the A/B signal levels. This way you can leave the IR itself at 100% mix.

Moving from vintage analog to digital gear necessarily involves this risk, and eventual certainty. It's a simple fact that the digital gear will, eventually, fail. It's a computer, after all. The question is how long will it last and, when it fails, be repairable? Aside from the fact that there will always be newer, more powerful, more feature-rich digital stuff being released - the stuff we buy now should last and be repairable for many years and continue to do what it now does. I don't think it's unreasonable to expect to get up to ten years from a digital device. That's a very arguable duration, but there is some point beyond which its ongoing use would be a real bonus. And that point is almost certainly less than the much simpler analog stuff. Will you have to replace a Variax guitar before a traditional Les Paul or Strat, or...... Almost certainly. But as the cost of the digital gear continues to decrease, and its utility continues to increase, the cost/benefit equation increasingly favours the digital stuff imho. You may have to replace a Helix in 10 years or less, while your old vintage Fender Deluxe carries on - but Helix provides you with so much more than the Fender Deluxe, at much less cost/space than having the analog arsenal.