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This looks like an example of a recent trend I'm seeing to get past the spam nanny here - namely the requirement for new users to have their first post approved. A sophisticated approach for a new spammer is to copy an already approved post by someone else so it will also be approved as their first post, then begin spamming under an approved userid. I am following this user.

Yup - I get the idea that you are having a laugh - just copy and paste someone else’s question! Well, here ya go - a copy and paste reply! Hope this helps/makes sense.

Perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, re-install the FW. Don't forget to do a backup before either operation. If neither works, contact support.

Just because you have a YT Channel doesn't mean that you know what you're doing. You can't actually HEAR a computer. You can't actually HEAR Helix Native or, for that matter Helix or any other modeler OR your "REAL" amplifier. The "chunkiness" of a "real" amp is largely a property of the amp's cabinet and speaker. Route your MOTU's output through the RETURN of a real guitar amp and speaker and it will suddenly be chunkier. EQ the crap out of the signal you send to your 3" studio monitors and it will sound exactly like your 3" studio monitors. Helix Native sounds just like Helix. Both sound like the playback system which provides the actual SOUND to your ears. My 6" Rokit studio monitors sound very different than my HR FRFR112 or my Catalyst100 or my Powercab PC212+. Death metal palm mutes sound very different when you play through a Fender Twin vs a Dual Rectifier and 4x12 cab. Finally - "TONE" is subjective. "Chunky" is a perception. 65db bedroom levels thru studio monitors will NEVER be as chunky as 105db thru the aforementioned Dual Rectifier and 4x12. Google "Fletcher-Munson". Have fun looking for a playback system that appeals to YOUR ears in YOUR playing environment! ;-)

The "ideal" setting is MAX***. At MAX (full clockwise) it is UNITY GAIN. That means 0db. Counterclockwise it attenuates the signal. The effect loop of most modern amps is either -10db (for STOMPBOXES) by default or there's a switch to allow for +4db (for RACK FX). If you're getting a huge volume jump when you switch amp channels (or switch from the amp's pre to a Helix amp) you can assign whatever switch you're using (or SNAPSHOTS) to send that message to also adjust the OUTPUT BLOCK LEVEL or the levels at the FX LOOP BLOCK. ***IIRC, the BIG KNOB adjusts the output level in the digital realm, it is NOT an analog control. That means that there is a possibility that it COULD affect TONE as a result of some complicated electronic mumbo-jumbo involving bits. There's an explanation I read on some high-end stereo site if you search for it. In reality, most humans can't hear it. Many people are quite happy using it as an easily reachable volume control. My thoughts are that at a real-world gig, if you're using a cable (vs wireless), the possibility of dragging the cable over the knob and thus changing the setting and pissing off the FOH tech or just causing your solo to disappear suddenly or blow everybody's head off is not worth the convenience of using the BIG KNOB. I disable it completely, which leaves it at MAX (UNITY/0db). At home I use it for a volume control.

No Rack model has been announced. Never say never but I doubt it. Yes, some sort of Helix Stadium Edit will be available.

The first problem I see with this is that you're re-amping a track that was recorded off of your guitar amp's speaker. That's NOT actually a DI Track. You COULD use the HXS to add POST effects, such as would be done in a studio, but you're MUCH better off using some of the many plugins available to you either IN LOGIC or on the aftermarket. Your problem is that both your VOLT and HXS have very minimal I/O and you don't own HELIX NATIVE. If you bought your HXS NEW you might consider using your discount to buy NATIVE, which would allow you to do the re-amping completely within LOGIC and not have the hassle of re-amping through the HXS itself. But if you can't do that: I assume that you're using a MAC. Create an AGREGATE DEVICE: Create an Aggregate Device to combine multiple audio devices - Apple Support I am NOT a MAC person, but my understanding is that this will allow you to use all of the available I/O of both your VOLT and HXS at the same time. You should now be able to figure out the necessary routing to accomplish recording your mic'd amp (BLANK HXS preset with LEFT MAIN OUT>Volt Input 1) alongside a true DI track (HXS RIGHT MAIN OUT>Volt Input 2) and monitor the recorded project mix through the VOLT while re-amping the DI Track through the HXS. Hopefully, someone else who is actually a MAC person will chime in here to verify this method or have a better solution. Good Luck!

Hi, just a to inform all of the amazing job from Line 6 Support (Chris P) that solved the problem that i had with the leds without charging anything, since i had the board replaced before i guess. Really impressed! Thanks Line 6!

Question 1 - When I bought my Cat I spent over a month comparing it side by side with a Katana Artist and my Helix with my PC212+. I knew that I liked it when I bought it and had already gone through the same process/experience as you. Still, I liked it even better after a while using it. That MAY be a result of speaker break-in, or it may just be a continuation of the learning process plus acclimatization of my ears to its sound. Psychoacoustics is a real thing. Question 2 - TBH, I bought the amp as an amplified speaker for my Helix that would be more portable than my PC212+ and could serve as a standalone backup to my Helix or simple grab'n'go for jams. Also, there's some days that the PC212+ just doesn't sound right. Psychoacoustics again. That said, over time I've come to appreciate that I can plug in, twist some knobs and find the exact sound that I didn't know I was looking for that day. Simple, old-school fun with amp and guitar, but 12 amps in one! My needs are pretty simple when it comes to effects, having grown up in the days of amps with built-in reverb tanks and tremolo (vibrato?) being all the effects we had. While I love being able to get wild and crazy with my Helix, sometimes simple is better. Play more, twiddle less. I don't play in a cover/tribute band. I've never been about trying to sound exactly like anyone other than myself. It's fun when I stumble upon the sound of some song that I really like, but I don't spend much time looking for it. In 5 minutes I'm bored and I've found some other sound I like and I'm off on that. Finally, there's an old saying - "Jack of all trades, master of none". If you want to sound like EVH you get a 5153, not a Fender Twin. Conversely, if you play surf music you don't get an Engl Fireball. The Catalyst is none of those, but it'll quickly get the essence of any genre, and that's all that matters to me. If I need more, I plug my Helix/HXS into the return. Tweaker Heaven!

Why not use the stereo cab block with the two cabs panned hard left and right?

So now that there is an editor, and cabability for more preset tweaking, do you think L6 will add a Customtone section for the Pod Express for preset sharing?

I have different patches.... yes, fixing one means(sometimes) fixing 3... but that's just the way it is. I guess you could have an eq block(s) that you could turn on/off?

The ring contact is for switching the FX loop in your Marshall.

Wow, What Program Change do you send to cause this? Could you send more details (where the desired patch is located in your HX stomp?/ Is there a specific snapshot you have to select?/ what #CC or #PC do you use on logic to command your HX)

I thought that looked familiar.

I concur, the one time I had issues with something going on with volume at a gig was when the big knob was somehow enabled. And it wasn't even the one holding the guitar causing the issue!

Thanks for your suggestion. This is so useful for me.

Hi, I don't think there's a midi command to simulate this FS3 function but... It may be fastidious but you can try Tthe following solution. (can work only if you play with a sequenced song with a Tempo track). Assuming your stomp receving midi clock and tempo track from logic: 1> Save your preset with (even done manually the LFO Timed to your song). The preset will be (normally) saved with the good parameters 2> Go to your logic (or any MAO soft) projet and insert a CC command to select your preset (even if you're already on it, it will reload the preset) on the 1rst Bar at the beginning of your song (with or without latency compensation if necessary) I'm not 100% sure but it should work Regards

I think the days of rack effect units are over. Or let's just say it's not so popular. There is no Headrush rack version, no Quad Cortex rack version, etc. I've seen a rig rundown for Megadeth, and they are on Quad Cortex, which are placed into drawers, and they manage. But then again, Line 6 released the Helix Rack later, after the Helix. So maybe it will happen. Who knows? I personally like how Fractal FM9 is laid out: you can use it as a "rack", because you can connect a remote to it: a 12 buttons, screens, etc.. That is the best of both worlds, IMO. My perfect processor would be something like an FM3: 3 buttons only, but with all the power of a full-blown unit. So I could take a small box to a recording session, or connect a pedalboard to it and expand on the number of switches. Oh well.

Thanks @datacommando!! My Helix floor was only registered recently, so I guess it hadn't made its way through. I now see the 'With Registered Helix Floor or Rack' option which gives me $300 off, much better than the $50. Cheers!

Nope, it’s not mandatory, but the latest version of the firmware will be full of extra goodies, and general bug fixes that make life a lot more fun. IIRC, I have seen mention that it is not unusual for retailers,(eg. Sweetwater) to have loaded the latest firmware into HX products before they are shipped out. The usual clue that this has occurred is that people have fired up their new device, only to panic when all the slots seem to be blank and are populated with “New Preset” as the name. Factory reset fixes that. Anyhow, if you did return the unit after installing the latest FW, you will have saved someone else from having to do it. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Either 3 and 4 or 5 and 6 will do for your purposes. Here’s the relevant doc: The Helix drivers are installed along with HX Edit. The HX Edit download is an installation package, not just the Edit program. Install all components.

If all you're doing is playing through headphones then the only setting that matters is "Guitar In Pad". If the signal from your guitar is too hot, turn it ON. If you're using external FX in the Loops then you probably want the SEND/RETURN you're using set to INSTRUMENT for Stompboxes and LINE for Rack Gear if there's no -10db/+4db switch on the device. -10db= stompbox/INSTRUMENT.

You can go from input to path A to path B to output, which gives you double processing power, which means double as much FX blocks.

For vocals and guitar simultaneously, for one reason. There are many others.

Only reason I can see to use separate paths would be to use different FX on each path. I don't, so I always use Dual Cabs panned.

Force/ Don't Force,... Force is when the Helix determines the Model (and the tuning) of the Variax by what is already in the Helix preset default setting or, a custom setting that is created by the user ahead of time. Don't Force, is when the Variax Model is determined by the Variax setting independently, and not determined by Helix. The Variax decides what it will play.

Here’s my understanding: What you’ve described will ensure that the Helix processing does not make any tuning changes using that preset. As you mentioned the overall Variax setting should be per preset. That means the tuning you hear is the signal received at the Helix input. Since you’re using a Variax the selected model could already be in an alternate tuning defined in Workbench HD. Or the guitar itself may already be in an alternate tuning.

Well If you've never used it and have no plans to, then you're contemplating elective surgery for a disease you don't have, lol... just leave it be.

The defaults for Snapshots assigned to Stomp Mode switches is PRESS=NEXT; RELEASE=NONE. Keep in mind that in the target Snapshot that FS will be set to the defaults. IOW - If the preset loads SS1 and you set a FS in SS1 to PRESS=SS2; RELEASE=NONE, then unless you change it, that FS in SS2 (and all other Snapshots) will be set to the DEFAULTS. You need to manually set the FS to do what you want in EACH Snapshot.

There're several possibilities, but I can't begin to guess the best one. Attach your preset and I'll have a listen to see which solution might work best for you.

This mistaken belief indicates that you are doing something wrong (or the delay is in the Mothership), and your description is insufficient to perform any analysis of the problem. The only delay between sounds that occurs with the XL (or any Helix product) is when changing PRESETS, not Snapshots. The Mothership manual seems to indicate that you need to count the milliseconds of LED ON/OFF time to know what programming mode you're in #!?!?. The editor seems to serve no purpose other than loading cab simulations. I've no wonder that you're having problems getting it to work. All I can do is to tell you how to get the XL to send PC messages using Snapshots. First, DL this: MIDIView - Free MIDI Monitor tool for Win & Mac In your XL's Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo be sure that the MIDI Base Channel (default Channel 1) matches the Mothership MIDI Channel - probably Ch 1, but the manual doesn't specify. Check that USB MIDI is ON (for MIDIVIEW) and MIDI PC Tx is OFF (prevents XL from sending the default PC# when switching XL presets). Don't worry about Snapshot CC Send as the Mothership only responds to PC messages, but considering the minimalist manual, you might want to leave that at the default of OFF just to be safe. For each XL Preset - 1) In Command Center, on Snapshot 1 (SS1), set Instant Command 1 (IC1 - the first lightning bolt) to the Mothership (MS) PC# you wish to load when that XL Preset loads. The other settings can be left at their defaults. SAVE THE PRESET! 2) Switch to SS2. Repeat step 1, entering the MS Preset you wish to load for that SS. SAVE THE PRESET! 3) Repeat for SS 3 and 4, SAVE after setting each! 4) Return to SS1 and SAVE! This ensures that SS1 loads with the Preset. Use MIDIVIEW to verify that each SS is sending the correct PC#. If it doesn't work, contact Tsakalis to get help configuring the Mothership. Good Luck with that! Attached is an example preset. I created it with my HX Stomp, so there's only 3 Snapshots. Calmandweird.hlx

In the editor, click and hold the block and drag it down, same as with the GAIN block that you moved to create the initial split. That causes the path to split into two output blocks - 1/2 and 3/4 - as in the example preset. On the HXS itself you accomplish the same thing using the ACTION button and selecting "Path B" using the first knob. This might be a good time to have a look at the manual...

Hi, I agree totally with the suggestions given by @rd2rk in the post above - BUT why is the power light on your computer flickering? Surely, the power ON indicator light should be a solid, stable display. To my mind that would appear to be a symptom of a bad connection somewhere, and possibly the cause of the audio interference that you mention. Hope this helps/makes sense

Uninstall/reinstall drivers. Optimize the computer for audio - google it! Try a new usb cable. Make sure that phantom power is off. If you're connecting to the interface by wireless, use a cable. If you're using a desktop pc, try a backside usb port. If you're using a laptop, try a port on the opposite side of the laptop. Try disconnecting any other usb devices. Unplug the laptop and run on batteries. Borrow a friend's traditionally powered (not bus powered) interface. Make sure that you're at least 10-15 feet from microwaves, routers, cell phones or other wireless devices. Use a wall circuit that does not have fluorescents, rheostats, microwaves a/c or other motorized appliances. Make sure that you're connected to an emi/rfi filtered surge strip. If all else fails you can try voodoo...

At this point the only thing you can do is put your request in the "customer feedback" section. Hit the blue button above that says "idealscale retirement". No guarantee that anything will come of it, but what is guaranteed is that nobody in a position to grant your wish will ever see it in here. This is a user forum...L6 staff don't hang around in here.

You'll never get an answer. Line 6 doesn't give a damn about its users.

If you already own any version of the Helix book, you can download version 1.4 for free from your Sweetwater account. Here's what's new compared to version 1.3: 534 pages (45 more pages than v1.3) In-depth analysis of v3.70’s nine new Cabs In-depth analysis of v3.70’s ten new Amps Complete parameter descriptions for the new effects (Prize Drive, Regal Bass DI, Feedbacker, Dynamic Bloom, and Nonlinear) 27 new presets featuring the new models in the v3.70 update I'm particularly proud of the new presets. Even if you don't read the book, just import the presets and have fun :) All except for three of them work with HX Stomp. I also did something a little different this time. I described the preset creation process for the new presets, and why particular blocks and parameter values were used. Also, many of these are oriented toward lead sounds. I felt the book needed more of those. And of course, I'm always interested in your feedback for when I start work on v1.5!

Need help with this. When I run through in ears the sound is not the same as through FRFR. Lose touch and sustain. Should I set up a new set of patches for when using in ears and send through AMP OUT? Any other global settings to be aware of that could cause isses?

Funny story. Turns out not to be a bug. I submitted this issue as a support ticket and in response Pete in Line6 customer support pointed out that the problem is that global setting MENU > Global Settings > Switches > "Stomp Select" was set to "both". What that means is that when I pressed the FS, it went into setting mode, and the scribble strip reflected that. Changing the global setting to "touch" solved the problem. Now, to make a change in the FS setting I'd need to touch, rather than press that (or any other) FS, but that's fine with me. Thanks, Line6 support (and Pete) for a prompt, helpful response!

This is Vol.3 my original ambient/drone patches for HX Stomp (Firmware 3.6). Last time I did such a Patch collection for HX it happened back in... 2021! Since I still get messages from people asking for more, I thought now is a good moment. These are 4 new patches I've developed and fine tuned during 2023. All devoted to ambient and drones soundscapes, with a twist: these are intended to use be used with small/compact travel-friendly setups, where HX is the main effect unit (with my AMT SS20 preamp and 3-4 other pedals in front of it). Each patch has 3 different Snapshots available. On all patches, while in Stomp Mode press&hold of Footswitch 1-2-3 will recall the Snapshot 1-2-3 accordingly. Expression port is set so that Tip is assigned to FS4 (tap tempo/tuner) and Ring to EXP2 (I use a DIY aux switch and an AMT EX50, which has also a TS port). You can download these patches here (as well as those from Vol.1&2): https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r0disfvi47smw6l/AACwvUEhbceqHcJvYJTNcRMua?dl=0 Have fun!

I have no direct info to give you but you could try Line 6's CusomTone website fo the Stomp and search Bass. It's definitely hit and miss over there but you might get lucky. https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=hx_stomp&search_term=bass

Yes, you can do that. The Input block of a preset includes the Variax settings. Assign the Variax Model parameter to the Snapshots controller just like you would any other FX parameter you control using snapshots. Once assigned the Variax model changes when you change the snapshot.

hello. i'm from Sri Lanka.i got a line 6 tone port ux1 audio interface.then i tried to connect to my MacBook Air (M1 chip).but their drivers are not supporting in to my laptop.so i just wanna help from you for the connect this one as soon as possible and please give me some guidence to make it worthy for me. thank you.

The following might help you to better understand how modern MFX units and Pod Go in particular, work. Similar to all modern MFX units the Pod Go gives you a huge choice of amp and fx models, but there is a finite amount of processing power ( DSP) available. Even Helix (whilst more powerful than Pod Go & can do a lot more) still has DSP limits. Although Pod Go uses Helix modelling, it is not a Helix. In Helix units like Helix floor, Helix LT, Helix stomp, Helix Stomp XL and even Helix FX, you have complete choice of what amps, cabs, & effects you can select - there are no 'compulsory' amps or fx you have to have. Pod Go is different. It is designed with a number of fixed blocks such as EQ, wah, volume pedal, noise gate, and fx loop. These use up very little processing power and whilst you can change the type of EQ or wah etc, you can't change these into anything else e.g. a reverb or distortion and you can't save processing power by turning them off. Think of all these fixed blocks as using up DSP power equivalent to a tennis ball, and all the other fx and amps as being a football. You can't put a football inside a tennis ball and hence you can't turn a wah into a distortion pedal or a reverb. Next is the amp block that you can't remove. Each amp model uses up different amounts of DSP and full amps use up more DSP than their preamp version, because full amps have more parameters which take up more DSP. If you choose jumped amp models these will use up more DSP ie they are like a beach ball, whereas other amps might be a football and pre-amps will be smaller footballs. Turning off the amp model doesn't save the amount of DSP - its a fixed block so Pod Go will reserve the DSP for the amp you have selected even if you turn it off. If you didn't need an amp model you could reduce the DSP being used by the amp by selecting the pre-amp model that uses up the lowest amount of DSP processing power. See the link from @grdGo33 Finally, you have up to 4 'user' fx blocks that you can choose and you are free to select any of the effects you want ....but again each fx uses up different amounts of DSP and using the same balls analogy these can vary from say a half size football to a beach ball. Now, all of your balls (amp and fx) have to fit into a box. That box is the total DSP processing power limit you have available. Think of the box as being able to hold say 5 normal size footballs (1 amp and 4 fx) but only if you fill it with average size football's. If you choose 2 beach balls you might only have enough space in the box left for 2 more normal size football's or 3 smaller size footballs. And if you chose 3 beach balls you might only have room left for a smaller football. If you wanted to get a bigger football into the box there would be no room...but if you changed one of your beach balls for a football, you'd now have room for the extra football you wanted in the box. In Pod Go, effects like Spring Reverb and Horizon distortion, and jumped amp models use up a lot of DSP (ie these are big beach balls). So if you select several of these 'beachballs' you'll only be able to get lower DSP hungry effect options ie smaller football's, into the box and sometimes there might even be no room left at all. In Pod Go some options will be greyed out to tell you that you don't have enough processing power left to have these (too many beach balls hogging up the room). But if you change one or more of your choices to something else and change a beach ball for a football e.g. replace spring reverb with hall or room reverb, or a jumped amp model to a non-jumped version, or Horizon drive to a tubescreamer or other distortion, then you'll free up DSP. It would be so much easier if Line 6 MFX units showed you the DSP cost of your selection as a percentage eg Spring Reverb 33%, Brit Plexi Jump 41%, Horizon Drive 25% etc so you'd know the DSP cost - even Helix users have asked for this. Unfortunately Line 6 don't provide users with DSP information - Pod Go has no DSP percentage indicator next to each amp/fx model or even an overall DSP meter so there is no way to see the DSP cost of your selections. If it wasn't for the excellent work done by Benvesco we'd have no info on this. But manufacturers like Zoom in the G6 and G11, and Mooer e.g. in the GE300 have a different philosophy and they do provide DSP info to help their customers. It's purely an ideological issue and a conscious decision by Line 6 not to show DSP usage...and it's something where I think Line 6 are just plain 100 per cent wrong and is why we regularly get posts like yours because Line 6 is not helping its (esp new) customers to understand about DSP and how Pod Go works. (I've written several posts here on this topic including one with a shopping analogy, so look at past posts and have a read). Anyway, hope this helps you.

Maybe I can save someone from having to do a factory reset. I had this same problem today and figured out that the issue was that in Global Settings, I had to Return Type set to Aux instead of Return like it should have been. I forgot that Aux and Return share the same input and I had set it to Aux at some point to send external audio through. Changing Return Type to Return immediately fixed the problem.

Hi there. I just got the Helix yesterday. Many other units and keyboards have a way to lock all the presets and controls for live performance. When the unit is "locked" for live performance, the musican cannot accidentally adjust any parameters in the heat of the battle. Boss MS-3 has this lock feature if you press and hold the "save" button for 3 seconds: all knobs and mini buttons become unresponsive, until you unlock the unit. Does something like this exist in a Helix? PS: yes I am quite clumsy, and have to play a complicated set that has frequent sound changes, and the last thing I need is to accidentally start editing my patch during an important solo while people are holding up their cell phones .... or something :) Many thanks in advance, d.

We are going in circles lol. There is no way to turn it off. The capacitance is always enabled. And that menu always pops up when touching the tap tempo/tuner button. For such a serious and global setting, I still don't understand why it's so exposed. I never want to change how my delays operate during a gig.

You can touch the tap tempo button and the tap tempo/per snapshot/per preset setting pops up. As a matter of fact, I own 2 Helixes, and during regular rehearsals, I constantly see the tap tempo setting flash, probably due to static electricity or whatnot on the floor. So it's not having to press the menu button. My question is -- why? why do you want to give users an ability to tweak this stuff on the fly? Why can't you disable the capacitance of the switches? Lock that stuff up.

I don’t know about that... I can’t recall any multi-FX processor that ever had any sort of prompts like that for changing various settings. Usually, you just set them, and that’s that.