Leaderboard

1. From Edit view, turn the Upper Knob to select the point where the two paths merge. The Mixer block (circle symbol) appears only when selected. 2. Press ACTION and turn Knob 1 (Path) to select “B.” The Mixer moves to path B, and a new Output block is created. 3. Press ACTION again to drop the Mixer block. See manual page 18 if you need pictures.

In Global Settings > Preferences make sure to set EXP/FS Tip to FS4 and EXP/FS Ring to FS5. If it's set to EXP1/2, the switches won't work because the Stomp logically expects an expression pedal. Other than that, the Ampero Switch is a rock solid device that just works.

It would appear that your friends are sending you presets from packs they've purchased on the L6 Marketplace. That's a BIG NO-NO! Either buy the packs or inform your friends of the error of their ways!

Hi So, I have updated my cheat sheet (pdf-version) and for you who are interested just download it from the link below (from my Dropbox). All the new amp’s, cab’s and effects are in there, marked with a red “N”, incl DSP and some other additional info. Legacy devices are marked with a red “L”. All are sorted in order of appearance on the unit, in their respective group. DSP-values for the new products are from me, but I have used the same method as Ben Vesco has used, published, and described very well on his great site (unfortunately not updated). If anyone has found a value that differs from mine, please let me know. There is a slight difference depending on which blocks are used when trying out the numbers. I have used blocks from Ben’s “reference material” to minimize errors and to get continuity. I have used two different setups and if those have a variation bigger than 0,5 (in relative %) I have used a third setup. Think it’s hard to get any closer. “Last device” is always at least one volume pedal at the end, in mono (0,47%) and/or in stereo (0,61%), what’s ever slips in :-), so that would be the tolerance... All devices are in preamp/full amp (cab’s are not incl, presented separate, but as default cab’s incl DSP, are in the sheet with the amp’s), stereo/mono, single/dual etc. where applicable. In an earlier version I did also publish the cheat sheet in a MS Excel 365 format, a DSP calculator. I will make that update but need some more time to finish it (want to play some guitar too…). Download the cheat sheet from my Dropbox (pdf-format) – https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8vsyuiehgd6ofjryw6g9q/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3-70.pdf?rlkey=k3yyscizqbi1z80ozmo6gsihi&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ye2g1okvx18ypsww746w/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3.80.pdf?rlkey=8ygh0iqax8ewds0i3yn0nxc86&dl=0 Great update Line6, very impressive work. Thought I had all I needed before this update, but was I wrong, there were a few more I didn’t know about, eg. the US Dripman (!), some of the Catalyst amp’s, 2203 and the ODR-1, wow :-) Have fun (I will…)! //Per

Did you perform the recommended factory reset after updating? Are you sure the affected preset has the Input block set to the Guitar or Aux input?

The main thing that I think you should investigate is the sound of your Rockerverb at different listening angles. Listen to the highs while moving around. You'll notice that when you're straight in front of your speaker the treble content is much higher than in angled positions. Directly listening to the center of the speaker it might even start to sound... fizzy, tinny, digital. That should give you a clue at what the problem is when dealing with a virtual amp with cabinet simulation: you have the choice of many angles, distances and microphones that all sound different an all pick up different amount of high frequency content. The second thing when using headphones is to use some reverb otherwise it will sound too direct and anemic. Use the Reverb->Stereo->Dynamic Ambience and experiment with Size and Mix until you feel in the right virtual space. Third point to keep in mind: volume. Loud stuff sounds better most of the time. Keep that in mind when comparing two sounds / settings. So I'd start with a Mandarin Rocker amp+cab block, copy the settings from your real amp, put the Distortion->Screamer 808 in front of it, again the settings of your real pedal, add a reverb after it. Then experiment with the cabinet settings: mic, position, distance, angle etc. Focus on the high frequency content - you'll find a lot of settings that aren't fizzy or tinny. The challenge is to find the settings where the sound is balanced the way you like it. The next challenge is to find settings that you like and that also fit in the band mix. And since you like stoner / doom stuff: don't miss out on the Moo)))n amp and the Vital Distortion. Also this article is a recommended read, understaning this will likely save you a lot of pain: https://blog.line6.com/2023/09/15/eric-klein-at-least-half-of-your-modelers-sound-is-determined-by-your-playback-system/ Take your time and have fun!

The rubber feet are attached with screws. So just remove the screws, take off the rubber feet and put the screws back.

Hi, It might be useful to read through the HX Edit Pilot’s Guide 3.80 > pages 27-29 - Creating & Restoring Complete Device Backups, and Extracting Files from a Backup. You can access the guide by clicking on the Question Mark icon in the lower left corner of the HX Edit GUI window, from where you can download a pdf of the information. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Start with a disclaimer… :-) My system runs Swedish as default languish, so the English wording can be a little different… I also use Win10, so there might be differences if you run e.g. Win 11. The easy way - Open “Device Manager”/find your card to turn off power saving/find the energy tab/unclick option “Allow computer to turn off card to save power”. You can/should do this on all involved cards – USB-devices, Soundcards, LAN-card, WiFi-card etc. A better way – Click on windows start menu and find Setting. In the left menu click on Energy settings. In the box "Power Saving" pick the alternative to "Never allow power saving mode". On the right side menu (in blue), Related settings, click "More energy settings". You can do this to your needs… You have three options – "Balanced", "Power saving" or "High Performance". I made these choices “Balanced” and clicked on Change Power Scheme and made those changes: Turn screen off after 10 minutes (does not effect how the PC performs but saves the screen) and “allow computer to go into power saving – "Never". Now, click on Advanced Settings for some mor important choices Wireless Network, power saving – Setting “High Performance” I have my LAN-card disabled in BIOS, if you use yours there is probably a setting similar to this. I have also changed this: Power saving mode, after - Setting “Never” USB setup, optional disabling – “Inactivate” PCI Express, link status – “Off” The rest depends on your preferences. An alternative could be to pick Hi Performance Mode, did not suet me at the time… But one conclusion is that you don’t need to make any changes in registry.

Back to your original issue.... While a separate mixer would be very flexible I'm not sure it will actually solve your issue. The problem you describe should be manageable using only the Helix and either its Global settings USB In trim or controlling the PC volume independently. If you can't get a suitable blend, at least for a single session, that indicates a problem that won't likely be solved by a separate mixer. I suggest you get the problem solved using your existing equipment first, then decide if a separate mixer would be useful to you. Question: can you get a decent blend/level using one Helix preset but things are unbalanced again when you switch presets? If the answer to that is yes, then your issue is preset leveling within the Helix and won't be solved with additional equipment.

The problem is the Helix, as good as it is, isn't a mixing board. I use a similar setup with my band and have been using it for several years now. The main issue is you have to be able to gain stage the backing tracks as well as the Helix. That's why I send the backing tracks from Ableton (gain staging the individual tracks to the right mix) as two XLR stereo outputs into the mixing board along with my separate Helix guitar signal and vocals on their own channels so I can gain stage all or those things to achieve the appropriate mix for the audience as well as for the stage monitors. I send the MIDI control outputs to a MIDI foot controller that converts the MIDI internally to the right combination that goes to the Helix or other devices. That way if I trigger pedal 1 on the foot controller it converts it into any number of MIDI sequences and isolates the Ableton track from those intricacies. For example I send a stock MIDI command to trigger the A footswitch in the MIDI foot controller which then might send two or three specific Helix commands to the Helix and a separate set of commands to the stage lighting controller. I realize that's a LOT more complex than you're wanting to do right now, but certainly a mixer is vital to be able to consistently get the right mix between the backing tracks and live Helix guitar and vocals as a first step.

I believe it’s an issue with HX Edit. And L6 promised to release a hotfix for it. Please raise a ticket with Line 6 support about it to make sure they are aware as well.

"The site has issues" is not the same as "The SW has a bug". In ANY CASE, contact support. That's what they're there for!

Not sure what you mean by ‘register’. To register your gear to your account for ownership purposes go to your Line 6 Account. Hit the Support link at the top of this page and then click on Register Gear at the bottom of the next page. If you can’t register it report that in your support ticket. If you mean that HX Edit et al won’t recognize your device that indicates a USB connection issue. You will want to update your firmware so begin by downloading and installing the HX Edit package. Seems you have already done so, but start again at HX Edit v3.80. Run the installer package and download all components including the drivers. Then run HX Edit and log in to your Line 6 account within HX edit (see bottom left of HX Edit window: My Account). You should be notified that updates are available. Follow the prompts. Read the instructions carefully; updating from v2.20 may require updating twice; this is normal.

You can create your own wah by taking a 10-band EQ, and assigning various frequencies to the expression pedal, same thing.

These videos are so comically predictable. Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb This video is brought to you by TrueFire Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb {British accent} explaining why the Helix is dead Washy guitar noodling garbage full of delay and reverb {British accent} explaining why the Helix is the greatest piece of equipment ever created ... etc.

Same problem here 2024

Here's the complete summary of what I've posted on this forum many times: Lots of bands have been running their guitars in stereo for the last 20+ years in a 5,000-seat theater or smaller. Unless you are talking about an arena or a stadium, running guitars in stereo is actually desirable, as it offers benefits such as "non-clashing" with other signals that are mixed in. Stereo sound is easier in terms of mixing, as you can SLIGHTLY pan instruments left/right, so they would not all be clashing together. I'm not making this up, several pro sound guys told me they prefer stereo guitar signals. If you are playing at a stadium, very few mixing engineers will run a stereo mix. Maybe just a few times during an entire show as an exception to the rule, for some kind of a special effect. Stadiums are difficult with the sound distribution to begin with, the last thing you need to worry about is stereo mixes. And there is no easy way to decide, which side is left, which side is right, otherwise you will deprive half of the stadium of sound when you do this, and the mix will only sound good if you are sitting dead in the middle. The distance from the left and the right sides is just too great in a stadium, compared to a theater. What exactly do I do in terms of stereo mix in my presets? I mostly just have ping-pong stereo delay in the majority of my core sound. A few songs have very exaggerated left/right delay but only in a few sections. But I dialed it in so that both sides of the concert venue will be getting the same amount of information, and no side would get more musical notes than the other side. For that reason I added my delays in parallel. I play a note, it is heard in the middle, then it is followed by a repeat on the left, then on the right. Other ways I use the stereo mix is with stereo panning on some little fills/solos, but nothing crazy that would make one side silent, while the other one is blaring. For example, I have one song where when I rock the wah pedal, the sound pans left/right, but not 100% left/right. Another example is one of the songs has a chaotic ending, and I have the tremolo with left/right panning. These are just special effects that I use very rarely compared to my main core sound. I go: stereo to FOH via 2 XLRs (L/R) and mono for my personal monitor mix via 1/4" L. I need to feel the guitar chugging, so I run my monitor mix into Mooer Baby Bomb 30W power amp connected to a speaker of a combo amp, or my own 12" speaker cab. If the combo amp has the speaker hard-wired, I go into the return of it, if there is a return. Otherwise as the last resort, I just plug into the combo amp on the cleanest setting. I prefer a single 12" speaker, it just has the best focus and clarity for me. I absolutely avoid 4x12 speaker cabs, or Marshall amps. They just make the sound on stage too loud, while simultaneously not being able to hear what the heck I'm playing, and the sound guys always ask me to turn it down... while I cannot hear anything. My XLRs are at fixed mic level, and the 1/4" is at line level, allowing me to adjust the stage volume loudness with the volume knob. I have it dialed in so that if the volume knob is on around 2, it's my home base. I usually make slight adjustments to have more/less stage volume within the first couple of songs. I do not remove the amp/cab sim from my personal monitor mix, because otherwise the delays which are post amp/cab would be difficult to set up. I just run the same exact mix to both a physical amp and FOH, as lots of people do. I typically do not use the Global EQ, but sometimes if the venue is small and the on-stage amp interferes with the mix, I may dial out certain frequencies with the guidance of the sound guy. The GE would only be applied to 1/4" mix. A few times when the stage setup is more amateurish, I went in mono to FOH. Helix sums your signal to mono automatically, no need for any adapters. In fact, if you have an adapter that adds left + right signals, the signal may become hotter and start to distort. This is something I discovered a few years ago. On the Helix I have been experiencing a bug where 1/4" Left/Mono doesn't immediately sum both sides, until you plug something into the right side momentarily, then unplug. Some people have experienced the same software bug with the XLRs as well. I have had to do this plugging/unplugging since the beginning of owning the Helix. On 3.7 firmware, that issue seems to have been fixed, but I still verify that everything is summing correctly by using a "Sound Check" preset that has exaggerated ping-pong stereo delay. Before I start playing a show, I always make sure to verify that left + right are summed correctly. I know what it's supposed to sound like, so if I don't hear the familiar delay sound pattern, I know something is wrong.

...almost 10 years after I saw, heard and played the Helix for the first time, surprises still follow: For me, the US Super (aka Super Reverb) amp is an incredible sounding, modeled, flexible and easy to use update. I'm so excited that I haven't even really gotten to the Bogner or EVH yet, but they sound sensational when I first play them. Dear Line 6 team, once again I say with conviction: You made an incredible good job. "Merci vielmals"!

No, there is no such thing on the Helix. There is something like that on HX One, called "flux". Exactly what you are describing. People were hoping this functionality would be ported into the Helix firmware. What you can do instead (which you are probably aware of): 1. un-bypass your flanger block in a specific snapshot 2. assign the mix parameter to the expression pedal. Or if you want your flanger in all snapshots, then remove the snapshot bypass assignment, and instead assign the bypass to the expression pedal. If the pedal is > 0%, it will be un-bypassed. This way you can gradually mix in and mix out your flanger.

A minor conceptual correction: the presets are not ‘automatically restored’; they were simply not deleted during the firmware update. They do, however, need to be rebuilt to ensure compatibility with the new firmware and they will be rebuilt automatically at the next system startup. So you can’t really skip what you call the auto update; it’s actually preset rebuilding and it’s necessary. You can interrupt and defer it (here’s where your prompt might be useful, but you don’t need it) by powering off the Helix at the point when the preset rebuilding starts. I do this because I know I will perform the factory reset and restore the backup file (except for the factory setlists). After that is complete I power down and restart the device to allow the preset rebuilding to happen only once, at a time of my choosing.

Also keep in mind that my file was just a one bar / start of a song example. You can automate whole songs with a MIDI track. Also you probably want to alter the order of the three MIDI commands in my file before you make it a template: CC#32 0..7 to select the setlist PC 0..127 to select the preset CC#69 0..7 to select the snapshot Be aware of the MIDI value vs. number offset: e.g. CC#32:7 recalls setlist 8 (7 + 1 offset) which is "Templates".

Or use left and right input, one for each guitar. Make a custom colored "Tele" footswitch: Put in a gain block in the first position and Controller Assign the gain parameter to a footswitch with two gain settings, one for each guitar. Rename the footswitch "Tele", give it the led color that your Tele has (in Command Center -> Customize) and set the Max Value for gain to work with your Tele (in Controller Assingn for the Gain block). Set the Min Value for the Les Paul.

That is some kind of ground issue. How do you connect the HX to the Rockerverb other than the amp switch socket? Is the HX connected to anything else than the amp?

Looking at that guy's screenshots, I'm not really sure what glitches he is talking about, and I haven't noticed anything, so I'm going to assume I can forget about it. Thanks for the link. *edit* I guess the missing "o" in "solo" for soldano? Would it have killed them to just make the patch notes "fixed mis-spelling in solo", or something like that? I was looking all over at my HX Edit for some kind of graphic glitches I might have missed. Anyway, thanks again.

Thank you, you saved my day.

Check your global settings -> Ins/Outs, scroll all the way to the right. There's an entry "Volume Controls" that you can switch from "Mains+HP" to "Phones". I'm sure your global settings were messed up during the update (which is sometimes happening for various reasons). Just set it to "Mains+HP" and you should be fine.

Yes, it’s a shame that it’s been dumped. It can’t be a huge thing to move it from OK to great (for me it’s more of an integration thing to use the features in the PC from HX Edit, updated speaker emulation would be great but I’m OK). I got a slight hope when it turned up in Central, but after a knight sleep and hit by reality that passed… I like my 112+ but knower days I only run it as FRFR and occasionally run it in raw mode, as a guitar speaker (actually sound good, better than the speaker sim’s, in how I use it). And, as you, IR’s goes into my Helix. I had to much struggle to get the IR’s to load, as PC doesn’t convert IR’s in different formats as Helix does (another thing not been thought threw), at least I can’t get it to work. Also, the new speakers from 3.5 reduced the need for IR's drasticly... Hope you and your 212+ find each other again, can be a wonderful relationship :-) /Per

Reading the manual is a very good idea. It was written for you to get the most out of your Helix. Here is a video that shows how you can build an A/B foot switch:

Use a preamp and an fx loop block in series in your patch. Engage Stomp Mode. Bypass assign both blocks to the same foot switch. Bypass one of the blocks manually so that one is bypassed while the other isn't. Done.

If you haven't done the factory reset followed by restoring form your backup, you should do that.

As far as I understand it, it does apply to License manager too. Best to ask support really. There surely must be a way round that.

Just checking a detail…. Make sure you push and turn the parameter knob - not just push it.

In Snapshot Mode use an Instant Command to set Ext Amp to 1, 2, 1+2 or None. The settings are per snapshot. Since you've skipped several firmware versions: it might be a good idea to read the new manual otherwise you might miss out on some new features. Have fun!

Cannot thank you enough PerS!!!

ummmm. yes?

Have you tried a factory reset or reinstalling the firmware? See manual for details. Since you’ve already backed up your custom presets you won’t lose anything.

The real Bogner Ecstasy is a $3500 amp that has more knobs, buttons and switches than any amp I've ever seen, so I'm betting they spent as much time to create that one amp as it takes to create a dozen simpler amps. I don't know if I'll use the Helix version, but I bet a lot of people will. So I'd look at this as a quality over quantity situation. After all, whatever favorite amps you have in the Helix so far, aren't you glad they got them right?

Hi, You might want to take a look at using a WIDI device for wireless MIDI connections. See this post from @PierM who is a something of a wizard with this sort of stuff. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Check you USB settings on the laptop. The default is that the OS tries to save power by switching off USB ports that it thinks aren't being used, especially when running on the battery.

"I have a line6 HX effects and I use it basically for bass. I would like to get in touch with colleagues who have established effect chains for specific songs or for defined styles. Apart from problems and solutions derived from the use of the unit. And above all, in Spanish. Thank you" Mientras esperas que alguien responda, puedes intentar escribir "BASS" en la sección CustomTone de Line 6 para HXFX. Sólo hay unos pocos, pero es un lugar por donde empezar. Espero que esto ayude/tenga sentido. https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=hx_effects&sort=rating&sort_dir=desc&search_term=Bass While you wait for someone to reply, you could try typing "BASS" in the Line 6 CustomTone section for HXFX. There are only a few, but it is somewhere to start. https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=hx_effects&sort=rating&sort_dir=desc&search_term=Bass I hope this helps/makes sense.

You shouldn't have trouble getting a clean tone with either of those amp models. But without knowing what else you've got in the chain, what you're monitoring with, etc, it's a guessing game. Are you running into either the front or the FX return of a "real" guitar amp, or straight from the Stomp to a PA? You might have the output level inadvertently cranked in another block before the amp model. Could be lots of things...

Hi, I am no longer able to connect Amplifi Remote app on Android. I always get a "There seems to be a problem with you Internet Connection". I do have internet on my devices (android phone and tablet) . I have rebooted the devices and the issue persists. I can log into my Line 6 account on the web with the same credential I use in the app so I know my username/password credentials are valid. The issue started on my phone. My tablet continued to work until I signed out of the amplifi remote app and attempted to log in again. Then the above error started on my tablet as well. Anyone else experience issues logging into the Amplifi remote app? The issue started for me last night (April 20, 2022 at about 8pm Atlantic). Thanks, Mark Edit: originally posted this affected my IOS device but it does seem to work for app login. It cant maintain a good bluetooth connection but that's another story.

Hi all - cross-posting from this post (link below) so we can start to work on a (new) source of truth for the 3.5 factory presets. Rest assured, I won't be spamming the forums with this, it just hit me today that I should've thrown this link in here. I put together an excel with descriptions of the Factory Presets in 3.5. Leveraged as much of the old file as I could from this particular thread. Link below. Would be great if folks could go in and add their notes on the presets they're familiar with. As you can see, we've gotten some great feedback already from folks on the Helix discord. I'd love if this could be turned into a comprehensive list that could be sent to the folks at Helix Help so they can throw it up on their site and we can all reference at any time. Not looking for fame or glory, I just want names to the presets! Click here - OneDrive Link - Helix Factory Presets Excel

Paid presets - in a word, yes. Some paid presets are using stock cabs, others will use the creators favourite Impulse Responses (IR's). The problem with paying for presets is that what you hear are with the creators specific guitar/pickups and recording gear. These will never sound exactly the same with your gear and will nearly always need some tweaking accordingly. Building on @grdGo33 response re IR, an IR is actually a little more than just the sound of an amp and a mic. An impulse response (or IR) is a sonic measurement of the sound of a speaker, room or microphone in relation to a sound source. In guitar terms, this is usually your amp. After your guitar itself and the dialled-in tone of your amp, there’s a lot more that can affect your sound. The speaker type, the space you’re in (ie natural room ambience), the build of the cabinet, the microphone you’re using, the microphone’s preamp or position both relative to the distance of the mic from the speaker and its distance from the centre of the speaker. With both single and multi-speaker cabs (eg 2x12, 4x12), some IR's are recorded with several mics at the same time. The combinations are literally infinite. The idea of an impulse response is to capture all of that information in one go, so you can instantly recall that setting. This means that you can retain your preferred tone, right down to the detail of your favourite mic placement and room sound. The problem is that when you buy IR packs or even use IR's that are available free, you could find that you have literally dozens and dozens of variations of the same speaker. Eg using mic type A/B/C individually or in combination at distance 1-12", offset from the speaker central axis by 1-12". So it's a real rabbit warren and trial & error to find the ones you like best. Now, even though in Pod Go there is only a distance of mic from the speaker option but no mic 'off axis' option in Pod Go, you still get a good choice of mic types and the ability to alter high & low frequencies and to add a natural room reflection, and a good choice of cabs and speaker options. This means that you already have the ability to vary the tone from the stock cab model considerably. When you hear an IR compared to the stock cab, your immediate thought might be that the IR is much fuller sounding & bigger eg with more bottom end or 'sparkle'. But one of the reason's is the dB setting of the IR is typically set higher than the stock cab '0dB' setting of the stock speaker, so it's sound is more prominent. But here's a key 'trick' - if you raise the stock cab dB to eg +6dB there's a huge change to how the stock cab sounds and very often you can get extremely close to a third party IR of the same cab. Some IR's are better than others but there are so many free IR's around, I'd strongly recommend you try these first before deciding to buy. Because we all hear & like different things, an IR that I might rave about you might hate. Similarly, buying patches - you might think these are great but I might hate them. Remember, there are a ton of patches available free on Line 6 Custom tone (I've contributed a few myself) so there's so much to try out before spending money. Buying an IR and/or patches is therefore a lottery. Why do folk buy? Well, some IR's can be particularly good and some patches might be well crafted. But most often it's because folk want a quick fix - instant tonal gratification without having to do the work themselves. But here's the thing, if all you do is buy stuff you're not really learning about Pod Go yourself and it's that journey of discovery that you'll be missing. And there are a ton of patch building vids on Youtube to help guide you and teach you. But it's still ultimately one persons ears versus another so even a top patch designer's patches, regardless of pedigree, skill in the studio etc, might not suit you. To make the point, have a listen to the Pod Go demo NAMM 2020 by Phil Hindmarsh, and then load down the exact same patches he was using from Line 6 Custom Tone - Paul is a fab player and in the vid, his tones sound spectacular. Now load those identical patches into your Pod Go - and I guarantee they won't sound like in the vid. https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=pod_go&search_term=PH Phil's skill aside, remember that this is mixed & EQ'd at the board, and your guitar, amp, speakers and even guitar cables or wireless system will be different. And everything impacts on your tone even down to the type of pick you use! And if you are a gigging player, remember that patches which might sound great in your room at home through headphones or your own home amp might sound 'meh' or even bad live in a band mix or through your gigging amp at stage volume or even if (like me) you don't use an amp and put your MFX straight through the main board/PA. And vice-a-versa ie great gigging patches might sound bad at home. And all those fine nuances as between 1" or 3" off axis etc that you might discern at home through headphones - well, & trust me here as I'm a gigging player, they go straight out the window as you'll never ever hear such differences in a live band mix. And all the reverb, delay & distortion settings that sound great at home - chances are you'll need to take everything down as in a live band mix you need tones that cut through the mix and don't sound muddy or washed out. There's a thread on this board on IR's, including posts from me with links to free IR's - so do a search and check that out to get you started on IR's. Remember, learning about tone & what your gear is capable of is a journey, and that folk selling IR's and patches want to make money. I'm not saying don't buy stuff or that there isn't some good stuff out there - but there's a lot of free options to get you started and there's no substitute for learning at least the basics yourself.

Since you just switched to a new computer, I may be able to help because I was in the same situation and this fixed it. Go to your Authorized Devices page in your line 6 account here, not the updater app. Make sure you've disabled any old ones you aren't using. I had several old computers that are long gone that were still authorized. Deleted those and Helix Native worked just fine. Here's a screenshot of mine, I had four of them authorized plus my new computer, so it didn't work there. Once I deleted the extras, it worked perfectly.

Try pressing the Mode footswitch.

There isn't an official parameter guide that explains all of those idiosyncratic parameters. You can usually find discussion of them somewhere on the interwebs, though. Ramp, btw, on the Cosmos Echo model controls how quickly the tape speed changes when you go to a new delay time. Having it faster will tend to give you more high-pitched artifacts while having it slower where drag it out a bit more. Imagine what happens when you physically change the rate at which a tape is moving through a tape player.

I haven't played the AX8, but other Fractal units, and they can be made to sound just as fizzy and undefined as the Helix can be made to sound, just as the Helix can be made to sound big a rich and tight as the Fractal stuff can be made to sound. If you think amps don't fizz or have high-end artifacts, you've probably never actually put your ear by the speaker.

I totally forgot about CustomTone. Been posting presets on dropbox. I'll post the one I use live when I get back to my computer. It has some nice stomps too.