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How do you dial in your overdriven presets? With my ears - not meant to be facetious, but really that's all that matters. 'Standard practice' is BS, it's just doing what others do and may not work for you. You may want/need to change your mic/cab approach for dirtier sounds, or even the amp settings. Luckily you can do all those changes with one button push using snapshots. I think you need to throw away analog approaches (which frankly were always a massive compromise (amp + cab with pedals in front) and embrace what digital offers in terms of clean and dirty and 'disgusting' can all be highly independent. You are no longer bound to amp/pedal/can settings based on what you have onstage. Play and learn, and have some fun.

Having tried many power-amp cab combinations (SS and valve) and FRFR approaches over many years my view is what works for you (at this moment in time) is what works, and that everything is a compromise. I now run direct to FoH and use (damned good) IEMs, and adjust tones to fit in the mix for FoH. The IEMs sound good, but its not the same 'experience' as loud onstage cabs. I would never go back though. The audience gets better sound and the sound is consistent(ly good). Something I can't say for running loud on stage and having to hit that volume level both for tone and so I can play well. My opinion is that its all marketing and hype, musicians play into it, and sunk costs drive opinions about what works more than anything else - before the next best and greatest potential purchase comes along. Audience be damned and internet opinions are worth what it costs to read them - nothing.

Any FX blocks you place before the Send block will be included in the signal going out to your power amp/cab. Any FX blocks placed after the Send block will be heard only through the Main outs to FOH.

Here ya go - start out with the bite size chunks videos. https://line6.com/support/helix-minutes/ As for the "oldies" thing - pah! You're a mere child - there are quite a few forum users who are beyond their allotted years of "three score and ten". Then when it come to listening to your Helix, please read this: https://blog.line6.com/2023/09/15/eric-klein-at-least-half-of-your-modelers-sound-is-determined-by-your-playback-system/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

You can’t send them individually to the FOH but you can adjust all the things you mention in the Matrix Mixer, and then send the pre-mixed stereo signal to FOH from the Stadium Send 1/4" outputs, independent of the XLR outputs.

I'm glad I came across this thread (finally), I have been working on this for a few hours and your explanation made my "light-bulb" pop on. Now the preset does exactly what I wanted to. Syphus

Since your device is new you have no personal/ custom presets and hence no need to perform a backup first. However the backup is a mandatory part of the firmware update procedure, which you will appreciate when you DO have custom data. A firmware update does not overwrite any of the existing presets in the device, neither custom nor factory presets. It does not automatically install any factory presets. So if you want any new factory presets you should perform the recommended factory reset, which does install them. However, it also deletes any custom presets. That’s where your backup comes in. My standard firmware update procedure is: 1. Perform the firmware update, which includes the mandatory pre-update backup. 2. Perform the factory reset, which includes installing the factory presets associated with that version of firmware 3 Restore your backup file created in Step 1, but selecting not to install setlists 1, 2, and 8 (the factory presets). After those three steps you will have the new firmware, the new factory presets, and all your custom presets, Global Settings, IRs, and Favourites that were on your device before the update.

There is a very reasonably priced eBook available on Sweetwater called The Big Book of Helix Tips and Tricks. It is authored by a regular contributor here named Craig Anderton. I have no affiliation with him and I am endorsing, not promoting, his product. I find it to be an invaluable resource and, given your question, I think it would be a disservice to you not to mention it. Detailed explanations of all FX blocks and their parameters is just one of the many things it covers.

I raised a ticket on this problem and Line 6 confirmed its a bug and it will be fixed in the next update.

None of the manufacturer's recommendations fixed the problem. Considering that it appears to be a connection problem with Line 6's servers, I tried something simple: I disabled "Date Time via Wifi" and setting the time/date manually, and boom! It fixed everything instantly! Incorrect time zone prevents connection to Line 6 servers.

I was able to get this working in Mac OS 26.1 Tahoe on a Mac mini M2. Here's what I had to do: Start the Mac in Recovery mode. This took probably 5 minutes Power off your Mac Hold down the power button until you're prompted to select either your boot drive or Options Click Options Wait a bit while it scans your disk In the top menu go to Utilities...Startup Security Utility Select the system on which you want to install the Driver. If the disk is encrypted with FileVault, click Unlock, enter the password, and then click Unlock. Click Security Policy, choose Reduced Security and check the option to allow user management of kernel extensions from identified developers Click OK. Enter the password for your account and click OK. Restart your Mac from Apple menu Download the Line6 Driver here: https://line6.com/software/readeula.html?rid=11477 Install the driver Run the following from a Terminal window (you can press CMD + Spacebar to search for Terminal if needed): sudo kextload /Library/Extensions/Line6AudioUniversal.kext Reboot the Mac I hope that helps!

I had time to look up the manual for your amp. There's a footswitch (PEDL-90016) that toggles the FX Loop. Since I don't see a manual switch (usually on the front panel) I would normally assume that the FX Loop is ON by default. However, it would be silly to assume logic from Marshall (like they ASSUME that you have the footswitch, so no front panel switch is necessary...)., so if your FX LOOP isn't working you should spend some time researching that.

Regardibg "Helix Stadium Bulk Transfer" - The reason users don't mention it is the fact tmat the WIFI connection works more or less. So they aren't aare of this issue. Look here For 2.: Line 6 Central is only for updating firmware but won't work with the error above. Stadium App is the remote app for Helix Sradium where you can do nearly everythind you can do on the unit's touch screen. For 6.: You can omly use one interface with ASIO on Windows.

Another suggestion: use Customtone (see link at top of this page) to filter the sort of band/guitarist/songs that appeal to you. Perhaps you’ll find some presets you can use as a starting point for tweaking to your own taste.

Do you use any stomp buttons at all or purely snapshots? I would just clear the bypass assignment for the amp/blocks entirely. Then assign the bypass to snapshot only. Then select snapshot 1, turn things on/off as needed, save. Then go to snapshot 2, do the same and save. Sometimes the bypass assignments get confused when you have multiple things controlling what is on/off.

The micro switches under the metal buttons are cheap and will stop being reliable after about a year of regular gigging use. If you are handy with electronics, open it up and clean out all of your switches whenever this starts happening. No need to re-solder a new microswitch. The procedure is very simple, in essence: locate the micro switches, and apply liquid DeoxIT to them, and press them a few times. I like liquid (not spray) DeoxIT, because it's only one drop, nothing gets sprayed in the process, you don't need to be careful where you spray, etc. The switches to me became as smooth as butter after the cleaning. watch a video on how it's done. https://youtu.be/WONiwe0vjH0 Helix is built like your typical Chinese gadget (Kemper floor is no different): looks solid from the outside, but inside is all microscopic PCB stuff with cheap components. In particular, the little button plungers are not held by anything, if you flip the unit upside-down they will all fall and you will not find them. you need a big table with a towel for this job -- can't do it on your lap. I use Tupperware / bowls / shot glasses to store all the parts, like screws/bolts/nuts. Sort all your screws by height, etc. Take a picture of what's inside before you start taking things apart -- that way will know how it used to be. A tablet is very useful for these. When I cleaned micro switches on the Helix LT, I did not have to take apart any ribbons, remove any glue, etc.

Not really but so far that we can do nothing but praying self update over intermet will still work or updatimg with Apple stuff. Last one isn't possible for me. We did everything a customer can do. Now it is Line 6' move.

Hi Jeff, What you have encountered here is not a question of “memory”, but more about how the DSP is allocated. Your Helix LT actually has 2 DSP chips available, which makes you better off than folks using single processor HX Stomp units - one chip runs the blocks on path 1A and 1B, the second does the same for path 2A and B. Some amp/fx models actually use far more DSP than others, but it’s not immediately obvious to the average user. Luckily, forum contributor Ben Vesco (Malhavok) has made quite a study of this stuff and has compiled a list, the latest version is available here:- https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/ Hope this helps/makes sense.

You can't increase the amount of processing power (DSP) available in a preset. That's the limitation - not memory. There are 2 DSP processors in Helix - one per path. You can maximize your DSP availablity by using both paths/procesors in the preset; using both paths is different from creating a split/parallel path in Path 1. A single preset can easily accommodate two amps with one on each path. Set the Output block of Path 1 to the Input of Path 2. You've immediately doubled the DSP power for the preset. If you're already using dual path presets and block selections remain greyed out then you have reached the DSP limitation of the Helix device. You can't increase that; you have to remove one or more blocks from the preset before adding another block.

Pod HD 500 is way more limited and complicated at the same time than the Helix! I tried helping a friend dial in sounds on it, and it was very difficult, especially on the unit itself. Helix is way more user-friendly. Snapshots are presets within presets, plain and simple--the octopus picture really explains what it is. You can save what each of your blocks do when you select a specific snapshot: what is on/off, and the various settings of blocks are, if you wish to change them. I only use snapshots for all my sound changes, never use any effects individually (aka stomp mode). In the band where I played, there were lots of sudden changes from loud lead with delay to dry low-gain sound. With snapshots, it's a breeze. With pedals, I'd have to turn on/off 3-4 pedals at once. Plus with snapshots you can also have different tap tempo saved, so your delays can have extreme exaggerated spillover effect when you turn off your lead sounds, for example. I actively use all such tricks to glue different parts of the song together. With 8 different snapshots within each song, you have more than enough different sounds to cover each song, given you save each song as an individual preset. Love it.

It’s very easy to do. I use a combination of stomps and snapshots on all of my presets, so I keep the unit in combo mode with both the top and bottom rows being stomps. When I want one of the buttons to be a snapshot, I do the following: Select the menu in the upper left of the touch screen (three horizontal lines). Select the Command Center icon. Select the button you wish to program from the screen, then select Preset/Snap from the lower left. Select "Command" and then turn the knob to the far right to "Snapshot". Now turn the Snapshot knob to the desired snapshot number and that's it, the button is now programed to go to the specified snapshot. If you would like to change the name and color of the button, select the camera icon in the upper right of the screen, choose the snapshot you wish to rename, then select "Rename/color" from the screen. PS: You might want to edit the title of this thread LOL

That’s the way I’ve always done it. 1/4” direct, XLR with cab.

I had this problem however I did not perform a reset to default. Also, even when no sound was coming out the meters did register audio. Hopefully my next statement would come back to haunt me. So far I still have audio working fine. I first create a playlist then import the stems into the song I create within the playlist. I use individual stems @ 44.1 kHz exported from Reaper after importing and setting as mono individual tracks. Stadium converts the files into stereo and whatever the rate is it needs for me (which I do not know off hand). I did have to careful with flags. The first time I had a couple on top of each other and thought I was loosing my mind. jpd

Move all the blocks amp/fx for guitar in path A. ie by using the editor drag and drop them into the upper line (path A) just after the initial pre-split path. Do the same thing for the fx you need for the voice but drag and drop them into the lower line (path B). Doing so your guitar chain and voice chain will be independent and separate.

Hi You can't but here's a usefull link https://benvesco.com/store/helix-dsp-allocations/

If you understood the 500, you will (with time) get the Helix. I went from the 500xHD to a Helix about 10 years ago. The sound quality jump was amazing, as was the learning curve. Stick with it. Jason Sadites has already been mentioned. I also used Marco Fanton (youtube) as a resource and dropped a couple of each's presets to help understand it. FWIW I went from tweaking every preset on the 500HDx EVRY gig to reviewing patches occasionally with the Helix once I got it. I use a patch per song with minimal reuse.

airguitargb, Never fear. You will not just figure it out, you will have fun with the unlimited ways the Helix can open your mind. Also, I can't believe I am a few months away from being 76 years old. I started the path to the Helix about 10 years ago and have not looked back. I did just trade up but that discussion is for another time. There is a person by the name of Jason who is one of many Helix tutorial "kings" on youtube. You can start by listening to the default presets that come with the Helix. Many are named "similar" to the songs they represent. I found that a decent 250k ohm open back headphone set like the beyerdynamic dt990 works well for in room testing for tone and sound level. datacommando is correct hat you will need to work with the sound person for your playback system. I would continually work with our soundman at least once a month when possible. Anyway, here is Jason's Line 6 KB page and also his youtube channel. And as you search you will find more tutorial videos. You should find that your pace will quicken as you develop a self-learning path as most of us have. https://kb.line6.com/helix-tutorials-by-jason-sadites https://www.youtube.com/@JasonSadites/search?query=Helix Floor You will want to focus on the Helix Floor as opposed to the Helix Stadium XL for now. Again, have fun and enjoy the ride. jpd

You're right. That functionality does not yet exist. Submit a feature request here: https://line6.com/company/contact/productfeedback/

I have been using a couple of JTV Variax guitars for years. Sweetwater now says July delivery for a preorder D10 box. For now I am using a strat with bridge humbucker and an SG, but there is so much I did with the Variax that I can't currently do like switch between an acoustic sound and an electric sound or use the Variax Sitar sound for the song Come And Get Your Love. I also miss being able to change the tuning for some songs with a preset. I was a little disappointed that variax and powercab support was not built in and requires a separate hardware box that won't be available for quite some time.

I have a basic block model that I created when I designed a protector for the touchscreen on my Stadium XL. I didn't model the knobs, buttons, and switches because I didn't need those for what I was doing, but I can add them. It will be a few days before I have a chance to do so.

There is a banner at the top of this page which you can use to apply to become a beta tester.

Ok, for all of you readers that were sitting on the edge of your seat to see why this was happening, well, here is what Line6 found out. The bump in volume which happens after selecting the same preset again had something to do with the Ampeg B-15 Cab I was using. They switched the cab and the volume bump went away. I confirmed this also worked for me. Josh (Line6 guy) said he would send this to the developers.

Thanks for the response, it's greatly appreciated. If I decide to get the Catalyst 100, I'll still be using my Helix amps and cabs along with the effects. I've heard some Youtube demos using the Catalyst with and without the cab sims and IR's and I didn't think there was a huge difference thru the amp. I currently run my Helix L and R outs to my PG Power Cab and FOH since I don't use anything in stereo. Replacing the PG with the Catalyst also provides a "backup" in case the Helix fails (it hasn't in ten years of use). I am currently in a cover band but I rarely set up my tone exactly like the record. I play the rhythm and lead parts pretty close but I kick everything up "a notch or two". I can play all of our two - three sets using two presets. I could use one preset if someone in the band didn't insist of playing quite a few songs using capo's and off keys like Eb, Bb, Db, etc. I refuse to use capos! One preset is for standard tuning and the other uses the Helix Virtual Capo.

For anyone hitting this post searching for how to run Helix Stadium on Linux, I've figured out one way to do it - but it only works if you have Wifi setup on the Stadium Install Steam Download the Helix Stadium installer In Steam go to Library > Add a Game > Add Non-Steam Game and select the downloaded installer exe Find the entry in your Steam Library and click Play, the installer should show up. Go through the install steps choosing the defaults Once that's done you'll need to find the directory that Steam puts file under. For me it was ~/.steam Under that directory you need to find where it installed Helix Stadium. For me it was ~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/Helix Stadium.exe. Copy the full path to the EXE In Steam right click on the entry for the installer and choose Properties... Rename it to Helix Stadium Change target to "{path to the exe above}". For me it was "~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/Helix Stadium.exe" Change Start In to "{path to the exe above but without the exe filename at the end}". For me it was "~/.steam/steam/steamapps/compatdata/{the most recently created folder}/pfx/drive_c/Program Files (x86)/Line6/Helix Stadium/" Close the Properties window Click Play and Helix Stadium app should start I had to cancel the auto connect, and manually type in the IP address, then click Connect (this needs to be done at the start every time) Once I did that it works as expected! Hope that helps somebody.

I can't explain the HW interface to you, as I don't have the HXFX. I do know that using CommandCenter in HX Edit is the same for all Helix family devices. Show me your configuration in HX Edit. Here's what it looks like for my HX Stomp.

I recently watched Rick Reato's interview with Simon Phillips, and they talked a lot about microphones on drum kits. One of the points that came up was that real microphones can get louder when placed further away. It can happen!

boynigel, Have you opened a ticket and then kept it open? What you can do if you have opened one and it has been closed is to continually add info which will reopen it until you get a final word as to what Line 6 tech is doing concerning updates or fixes. If you haven't opened one you can open one now and follow the previous suggestion to get some final resolve. jpd

Finally had some time today to set up a test using the Helix in a loop switcher so that I could quickly compare the engaged and bypass tone using a straight-thru signal path (no blocks). What I found when engaging the input pad (on the preset input block) was that the makeup gain needed to compensate at the output block (to my ears) was +12db. So - at least now I know where to start for unity gain when dialing in my presets using the input pad.

See this thread. There isn't one in the Stadium Editor.

The least 'lossy' approach wouold be use the Stadium USB out direct to your PC/crapple device so it all remains native digital. And use the Apollo for playback. Then would be SPDIF (Stadium) to Optical (Apollo) via a converter - keeping it digital. Then XLR - no idea where the idea it will colour the sound comes from - are you a member of an audiophile BS group? They love to say ship like that (ensure the copper in the cables is aligned facing mecca or you'll be dissapointed). All of that said - if you can hear the difference between any of the above, congratulations you have 24k gold ears.

Well, you pay for the "even more realism" I suppose. I find the legacy amps are absolutely fine, and for more tweakability I am frequently playing around with a compressor before, after, and between the amp/cab. Bands had no problems touring with the Helix Floor, bands like the Doobie Brothers, so this "even more realism" is such a marketing gimmick....

(I know Kemper does not have such a gap at all.), But... Helix always has had a gap when switching presets. So does the Boss processor and most other old-school digital processors. On the Helix, you have snapshots to circumvent that gap, that (annoyingly) is there. Each snapshot is your different sound within a preset, which is your virtual guitar rig. Preset spillover does not yet exist in the Stadium, as I understand. On the Helix, you sacrifice one DSP chip, to be used as a buffer for switching your presets. So you sacrifice half of your signal chain, and have pretty seamless switching between your presets. I never found myself in a situation to have needed this "feature". On the Helix Floor, I actively use snapshots and do not ever have a need or reason to switch presets during a song. Each preset is each own song. There's a gap when switching, but that that's when you stop and start the next song. That's how modellers should be used -- each preset corresponds to each song. Otherwise, you have several presets that can cover all your repertoire, have a preset for each type of song you'll ever need. In my set, when I was touring, I had 26 presets, which I went through on a nightly basis. I organized them in the order of the set, and just pressed "up" to go to the next song. We had 2 songs that were connected, and I just found a "gap", where I could switch to the next preset. But trust me, once you start creating individual presets (which is what I do), there's no going back IMO.....

Sharing this because I went crazy trying to figure it out, and maybe it’ll save someone else some time. A few days ago, I tried logging into Line 6 Helix Stadium, but the QR code never appeared. The manual login didn’t work either. To make things worse, the HX Stadium App kept crashing, and I couldn’t update it from my computer or through Line 6 Central. Ironically, those were the two options the manufacturer recommended when I contacted support. Since I work in tech, something didn’t add up. Everything pointed to the app not connecting to the server, which explained why the QR wouldn’t generate. Then I thought: “What if it’s the time zone?” I tried something simple: Disabled automatic time synchronization Set the time manually And… BOOM! The QR popped up instantly, and I was able to log in without any issues. Hope this helps someone out there.

No. It should be very easy to fix this for Line6 though. Open a support ticket , tell them that you can't accomplish this right now and hope that they add this in a future update.

When will we expect a fix to this? Also, I can't seem to enter a support ticket anymore on the website. I can't get past the first step. I click on the "Search" button and nothing happens.

Well getting all technical, Bias is the only thing you can alter on a real amp and it's not a user adjustment because if done incorrectly you'll need a new set of output tubes. Sag is inherent to the power supply design but it will increase over time. Hum and Ripple get worse as an amp ages or get better as it grows some mojo depending on your viewpoint. I'm not sure about BiasX but it probably relates to the biasing and crossover distortion which never sounds good. Real valve amps all have some hum and ripple but mine hum at 50/100Hz not 60/120Hz so the modelled versions sound wrong.

Just to emphasise Variax 600 uses the original Workbench (Not HD Workbench) and it does not have the capability to adjust the volume of individual string. Only HD Workbench able to do this but It does not support Variax 300/500/600/700.

The bright channels can be very useful. Typically these are done with a simple bypass capacitor on the volume or gain control. What cool about this control is that the more you turn it up, the less bright boost you get. So of you put say Drive on a footswitch with max and min values, you can get a nice bright clean sound at low values, and then the tone warms up naturally when the drive is turned up.

Well, no replies, but in the meantime I have managed to fix it. The issue was not with the UX2 or Windows, but with graphic cards. The Dell XPS laptop has 2: one is Intel, which is being used by default, and the other is high-performance Nvidia, which should be used for games and such. Which is being used by which application is being decided by the system. When I forced Reaper to use the Nvidia card - all the problems were suddenly gone. I guess this could be added to the FAQ - many laptops now have multiple GPUs and it is not so obvious that this could be the source of sound problems.

That's still highly insulting considering that the JTV is a 1k guitar, is meant to be a more high end version of the Variax guitars, and was also released to fix flaws in the first generation of Variaxes. You really want to be that anal about saving money, just make the guitar 1000.30 and call it a day.