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That may be the case, but it is the most likely place to find Eric in his guise of Digital_Igloo. Plus it was in TGP where he first mentioned the continued support for the original Helix range of products.

I've no clue why you'd want to do that. New to MIDI? The main reason to use the "Snapshot CC Send" would be to record a MIDI track to automate a show. When you use a MIDI Controller for LIVE performance you just setup the controller to send the CC#69+Value (SS# - 0-3). Unless you switch banks on the controller, those switches will always send the proper message. Here's the MIDI controller I use. Cheap, powerful, easy to set up (mobile app), rugged, dependable, and widely available: Amazon.com: HOTONE MIDI Foot Controller Pedal Bluetooth Ampero Control 4 Button : Musical Instruments You didn't say WHERE in Europe, so...

Yup, it sure has, check this thread from 2018, especially the reply from “revans” listing Helix = Strymon Reverbs. IIRC, Strymon evolved from Damage Control which was created in 2004 by a couple of guys who had previously worked for both Alesis and Line 6. Hope this helps/makes sense.

*squinting my eyes at you* well played. I really dig the Cloud reverb, which is what I try to mimic. Cloudburst is pretty cool too. This video pretty much sums the sounds I would love to mimic without losing clarity. So lush. *drooling Sorry, as I'm sure this topic has been beaten to death

Then you make the setting active. It works in the one preset you want, and since you don’t care about the other presets it doesn’t matter. Personally, I decide on the snapshot edit behaviour based on whether I am primarily editing or playing in any given session. When editing, especially if editing snapshots, I set it to Recall so that I can navigate among presets without having to Save the preset each time I change Snapshots. I tend to leave it there because while playing I don’t usually even have the edit program active - everything is done on the device. If I do have the editor running while playing I set it to Discard.

I would go for Option 2. Things you may not have thought of: External drive pedals in the HXFX Loop could be too noisy (IMO) due to the small amount of noise added by the Loop. With "Lots of dirt pedals" you'll already have plenty of noise. YMMV depending upon the pedals, but that has been my experience. If you haven't spent much time with the HXFX dirt pedals, try them and compare. You might end up selling the physical pedals. Option 2 also allows you to put your MOD FX before the Opus and your time-based FX after, as would be done in a studio in post production. There's no reason to further complicate your signal chain with external MOD pedals, the ones in the HXFX are quite capable. Also, keep in mind that every time you go from analog to digital and back you're introducing latency which, even if not enough to throw off your timing, can still affect the "feel" of your rig. More external pedals=more cables=more potential failure points. "KISS" theory applies.

This looks like an example of a recent trend I'm seeing to get past the spam nanny here - namely the requirement for new users to have their first post approved. A sophisticated approach for a new spammer is to copy an already approved post by someone else so it will also be approved as their first post, then begin spamming under an approved userid. I am following this user.

Yup - I get the idea that you are having a laugh - just copy and paste someone else’s question! Well, here ya go - a copy and paste reply! Hope this helps/makes sense.

Perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, re-install the FW. Don't forget to do a backup before either operation. If neither works, contact support.

It would be so nice to not be tied to Microsoft Windows or the equally bad Apple control freaks just to run HX Edit or Helix Native. Please provide us with Linux native apps. Thanks, John

I would also like to see Line 6 software officially support Linux. I already paid for Helix Native, but I would be willing to pay a 2nd time for a Linux version. I run a Windows virtual machine so that I can use HX Edit to update HX Stomp firmware, but the performance of software running in the VM sucks. If there are no plans to make HX Edit available on Linux, Line 6 should provide information about the communication protocol and file formats so the community can develop the software. Software to examine backup files exists, but this is far from what is needed: https://github.com/frankdeath/hx-tools

My G10 had just passed its warranty when the battery went dead. In fact, I had two other G10s that also died just after the warranty period. As I said, this one sat dead for about three years before I found a battery that works. I did the battery replacement safely, and can now use the transmitter again. Having a battery that is not "user-serviceable" and that, in fact, can't even be purchased in the US, left me with the option of tossing the G10 (which I did with the other two), or finding a way to save some of my investment in the third one. I did the replacement safely, and it works. And you'll notice my last sentence in the original post, where I urge caution and being safe if the replacement is attempted. I appreciate your comments, but there are lots of us out there with dead, expensive units that CAN be salvaged. Had there been a way to get the battery or unit replaced through Line6 (I tried), I would have availed myself of it. Regards, Carl Owner of many Line6 products since about 1996, or whenever that first Pod came out

Terminology. The TRANSMITTER is the dongle that plugs into your guitar. The RECEIVER is the ridiculously huge box that plugs into your Helix input. The RECEIVER doesn't need to be in the middle of your workspace, it can be placed anywhere within the 20' reach of a standard guitar cable. Beyond 20' could be inviting signal noise but really, there's no out-of-the-way-line-of-sight place in your office where the RECEIVER can be placed? Also, if the RECEIVER+cable can be conveniently located using a rear input, just run the cable around to the front of the unit (using the right-angle adapter if it sticks out too far OR use a RETURN as I previously suggested. As to WHY the AUX input doesn't work with the Input Block set to MULTI, I see no explanation. Attach an example preset and I'll test it for "USER ERROR" but really, even if we get the AUX IN working you won't be happy with the result because, as mentioned, it will NOT give the same signal level as either the GUITAR IN or a RETURN. Another possibility - you didn't specify WHICH NUX wireless you have, but if it's 5.8ghz it will probably work better than the G10 re dropouts. If it's the dual-dongle version just connect the RECEIVER directly to the GUITAR IN or to a short patch cable connected to the GUITAR IN and set it on top (or velcro it to the side) of your rack. EZ PZ problem solved! In my "office" (my dining room table) I have a similar space problem. I have an HX Stomp there and I just plug the RECEIVER dongle directly into the GUITAR IN. When I was using a G10 I used the patch cable method with the RECEIVER on top of the monitor speaker.

I'm not sure that I understand. MULTI includes the AUX Input. You shouldn't need to set the Presets' input to AUX to use the AUX Input. If you DO select AUX, that disables all other inputs for that Path. The AUX Input is intended for use with active pickups, and your signal from the G10 will be much weaker than when you use the Guitar Input. It SHOULD, however, still work. I'm currently using a no-name 5.8ghz wireless because the non-replaceable batteries died on BOTH of my G10 units and I'm not spending $220 for a new pair of transmitters that are eventually destined for the dump with the ORIGINAL pair that in any case don't work as well (dropouts) as the PAIR of dongle style units (no big bulky base unit) that I got on Amazon for $60 (for the PAIR - $30 each and NO dropouts!). They work fine in the AUX Input and IIRC, the G10 worked fine there too (when they worked). IDK what sort of space constraints necessitate using the AUX input, but why not just use the right-angle adapter that comes with the G10 to go into the Guitar Input? EDIT: If you MUST use a rear input, use one of the RETURNS and set the INPUT Block to that RETURN. The RETURNS are 1M and will not attenuate the signal like AUX does.

My amp's a Suhr PT15IR, so i'm going to assume its spec'd for pedals. it doesn't specify in the PT's manual, it only says, "tube-driven, buffered"

Have you tried the 4CM setup? See manual pg10.

Huh? A Global setting means it is effective on each Preset across the entire device. Provided that you don’t SAVE any changes you make, then everything remains the same. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Yes, that's what I described using the Snapshot Edits setting.

I'm using a rather inexpensive USB-C to -B cable from Thomann with zero issues. Sometimes I'm as well using a USB-A to -B cable from my USB dock. No issues, either.

The usual suspects are (in preferred diagnostic order): Drivers - check your machine is upto date with OS (no hints here as you haven't said what OS), uninstall HX Edit, restart machine, full reinstall (download the right Edit for the firmware) USB cable - they wear out so try a few different ones USB port on you computer - even though nothing has changed try a different one USB port on the HX device (you don't say what type) - try a factory reset to see if its firmware related first - and try a different computer if possible If none of that works then its likely the port on the HX device requiring a service centre.

Hi, Simple solution - I would suggest that as a new owner of a HX Stomp, you might want purchase “The Big Book of Helix Tips and Tricks” compiled by occasional forum contributor Craig Anderton. It is available as a digital download pdf from Sweetwater - see link in thread below. I mention this simply because the Big Book actually contains two ideas for creating custom Wah pedal settings, one of which includes Q control. See the sections - “The Secret Wah” and “The Customizable DIY Wah”. Presets for both of these are included, along with lots more free Presets Hope this helps/makes sense.

Deactivate Global Settings > MIDI/Tempo > MIDI PC Tx to prevent your Stomp from automatically sending MIDI PC (program change) messages when you change patches - because otherwise the sent program number is always the patch number. Instead use Command Center's Instant Command to send a BankPC command via MIDI.

I have different patches.... yes, fixing one means(sometimes) fixing 3... but that's just the way it is. I guess you could have an eq block(s) that you could turn on/off?

The ring contact is for switching the FX loop in your Marshall.

It's analog. All that's happening is that a circuit is either open or closed. IDK which is which on that amp, you'll need to experiment a bit, but let's say that TIP is CHANNEL, OPEN is CLEAN and CLOSED is DIRT. Set the IC on the CLEAN Snapshots to EXT AMP>NONE and the DIRT Snapshots to EXT AMP>TIP. The Channel on the Marshall will remain in the selected status (OPEN/CLEAN or CLOSED/DIRT) until you select a Snapshot that changes the OPEN/CLOSED status -NONE=OPEN/CLEAN or TIP=CLOSED/DIRT. Again, you'll need to experiment to figure it out. If you have the actual Marshall Pedal you can use a multimeter/continuity tester to see if the circuit is open or closed when the button is activated.

Wow, What Program Change do you send to cause this? Could you send more details (where the desired patch is located in your HX stomp?/ Is there a specific snapshot you have to select?/ what #CC or #PC do you use on logic to command your HX)

Thank you so much!

Thanks for your suggestion. This is so useful for me.

I also have the Xvive U2. It sucks but does not have the problem you're describing. It is VERY sensitive to positioning in relation to anything else electronic that might be in the same room (or building or county). Also temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, phase of the moon... It doesn't work any better or worse when connected to my Helix than direct to the amp. I would look around for anything that might possibly be interfering with its signal (fish tank?). FWIW - I have another 2.4 unit, as well as a cheap UHF (excessive compression) and a 5.8. The 5.8 is the least troublesome and was the cheapest wireless on Amazon ($30 vs $150 for the Xvive 5.8). Go figure! The common problem with all of them is battery life. When fully charged they work OK but as soon as they get a bit discharged they start to have dropouts. I HATE grabbing my guitar in a fit of inspiration and having it ruined by dropouts!!! I'd rather trip on cables. Someday when I hit the lottery I'll buy a PRO system, but until then I'll stay wired.

Dear friends, I'm pleased to announce version 0.4.0 of pod-ui, a cross-platform tool for controlling POD2.0 modelling app. It's an open-scource app available for Linux, Windows and MacOS. Please check out the release page and download the binary for your platform. I'm just one guy with one POD and would genuinely appreciate feedback, especially from Windows and MacOS users. Currently, the app supports controlling POD in real-time as well as loading POD patches from the device and storing them back to the device. I would love to add lib and l6t file loading in the future as well as support for other Line6 device. The pre-compiled binaries on the release page include sentry support, which means that if and when the app crashes, a crash report will be uploaded to the cloud. Otherwise the app does not collect or send any data anywhere else. - liet_

Hello. I just got an HX One. I wanted to use it for instant and momentary Whammy fx using the Flux Footswitch. It appears that there is no way to change it from latching to momentary? That’s unfortunate as it really slows down the use of the Whammy effect. Has there been any talk of adding this feature in the future? Basically it needs to shift up when pressed and return to heel pitch when released.

You'll never get an answer. Line 6 doesn't give a damn about its users.

Hello everyone. I can't log in to my account in Monkey. Writes the error "Login failed. Reason: (Code 8000200B)". I tried it on different computers and different operating systems, the same thing. Help please

To maximize your investment and obtain the most functionality, get a Powercab+ and an AES/EBU cable. This allows you to set your PC+ configuration from the presets on your Helix and provides single cable connectivity. Each preset can have a different configuration instantly! How does it sound? It sounds great. Does it sound better than the IK, Fender and other alternatives? We all have different ears. Only you can decide, and only by trying them side-by-side in YOUR environment - NOT Guitar Center! I have a PC212+. Stereo or mono and set to full width it sounds great. Mostly I use it with the NATURAL speaker emulation with no cabs/IRs - that's the raw Eminence 12" speakers with no eq AITR! Some people prefer the LF RAW setting which is supposed to be the same but sounds different. Some days I feel like using it with the speaker emulations, some days I use it FRFR with cabs/IRs. Speaking of IRs, you can store 128 of them ON the Powercab, and select them from the presets on the Helix. Saves DSP and you can use different emulations on each speaker. You can also use analog cables from your audio interface concurrently with the AES/EBU cable and route your amp sims through it, using Helix to control the DAW and amp sims via MIDI. There's lots of PC112+ available used because the Powercabs are complicated to use to full advantage (vs plug-n-play for the others) and, IMO, being expensive new, many players suffer buyer's remorse when they don't just sound great out of the box. I originally had the PC112+ and traded up for the stereo possibilities of the PC212+, but in retrospect I often consider picking up a used PC112+ simply because I'm old and carrying the PC212+ down/up 2 flights and across the parking lot is a PITA - 48lbs vs 32lbs and much smaller. I haven't because I don't play out enough anymore to make it worthwhile. But if I have extra money in the bank and one pops up on CL for a good price...

Olá, queria saber se alguém sabe se tem o aplicativo amplifi remote para as versões mais recentes do android? Troquei de aparelho recentemente, porém por ser uma nova versão do android o aplicativo disponível simplesmente não funciona. Hello, I would like to know if anyone knows if there is an Amplifi Remote app for the latest versions of Android? I recently changed my device, but since it is a new version of Android, the available app simply does not work. Or if there is an alternative way to use the app.

A bit OT, but I would gladly PAY for a Linux version of Helix Native. Make it happen Line6! Please! Also, DunedinDragon, welcome to my block party.

The software is already written, it just needs to be ported. Apple's OS is a close relative to Linux so it can't be all that major of an undertaking. Yes, it's nontrivial or I would be able to do it myself, but it's not that big of an ask. Microsoft and Apple are getting more intrusive every update, and I want to move entirely to FOSS.

* Login Failed (Code8000200b) The attempt to secure the connection failed. Anybody knows what can be be the reason for this,? it happened after many years of no problems of using it.

Hi there! I have discovered the same problem with mine. Just upgraded the firmware to 3.71 and it crashes on 'Vibe Rotary' for me. I'd think it would be a bug in the firmware but I don't see any other queries about this online. I think I might try and revert my HX One back to 1.60 where i havn't had and issues for my uses of the pedal.

Need help with this. When I run through in ears the sound is not the same as through FRFR. Lose touch and sustain. Should I set up a new set of patches for when using in ears and send through AMP OUT? Any other global settings to be aware of that could cause isses?

Hey all, So this weekend my HX stomp's rotary encoder #2 (of 3) went bad. The switch mechanism either gave out or was crushed internally, not sure. However, it stopped receiving button presses on encoder 2 under the screen. Long story short, I spent hours looking up posts, parts, sites, and came across what seemed like a compatible match. I soldered in the part a few moments ago and it works like OEM! I hope this helps anyone looking for the part. With ALLL that said, I can't guarantee that his works for the Helix as it does the HX. I've taken apart both units a few times for maintenance, however I just can't recall what was in the Helix Floor. Likely the same part. Here's the info: Digi-Key Part Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024-ND Manufacturer: Bourns Inc. Manufacturer Product Number: PEC11R-4015F-S0024 Description: ROTARY ENCODER MECHANICAL 24PPR Encoder Type: Mechanical Output Type: Quadrature (Incremental) Pulses Per Revolution: 24 Actuater Type: Flatted D 6mm Detent: No Built in Switch: Yes Mounting Type: Panel PCB Orientation: Vertical Termination: PC Pin DigiKey Link: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4015F-S0024/4499668?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=4251_OCE23RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=3294583&so=79660503&mkt_tok=MDI4LVNYSy01MDcAAAGJeZwhRZlHpMczuFUKJJnBAI1cw3UpEiZQU9lj1m6djk3uIrKIfkkv702-v2drrxYburU4cGCOMTLMqBRAgNp_JnbIz01ZS88mDLPy61Z9

Hey guys! Been a huge Mule/Haynes fan for years. I wanted to create something that could be used for their full catalog as all the presets I have sampled have just been well... not that great. I'd love your thoughts on this. Let me know what you love and hate! I was a little torn between the Solo Lead Crunch and the Solo Lead OD, ended up settling on the OD with the gain on 2.5. Despite Mule's in your face attitude, Warren plays very low gain in most cases. The sweet spot here is between 7-8.5 on the guitar volume and you can crank it to 10 when you really want it. I can't express how important this is for some tasty Warren tones. Also note, Warren mostly uses the bridge position for rhythm and the neck position for most of his lead stuff. Made this with an SG with Bare Knuckle Mule (PAF style) pickups. Pedal list and function: Low Cut: exactly what it says. He doesn't use it much, but it stays on his board for certain uses. Auto Wah: As we all know, we don't have a great option for this. I tried the mutant as well but this is about as close as I can get for those "Mighty High" sounds. Still wasn't able to really dial it in. Best on around 8 guitar vol. It responds better when you crank up the vol but doesn't sound great with the extra gain. Delay: Well... delay. Nothing fancy. Warren uses a simple analog. Octave: Nothing crazy here either. Just an octave down with enough mix to come through. Rotosphere: Did I few things here which turned out pretty well I think. Tried out the Sadites trick of running two with slightly different speeds on the horn and woofer. I also linked the cab in with the switch to disable the cab when the Roto is activated and added a Low/High shelf since the only cuts were in the cab itself. I added an EQ after the Roto to tame some of the undesirable harshness that comes without it. This also responds and sounds much better/accurate at lower guitar volumes as well. Around 3-5. High&Mighty: Just a high gain Minotaur with the tone rolled way back for some of the more heavy tones like you'd find on High and Mighty. I love the Minotaur for this since it really keeps our definition and doesn't get over-saturated. Klon: Low gain Minotaur just for some tone shaping and tightness. Just Enough: This is something I've been adding to most of my presets. 10-Band EQ with the gain cranked and some eq shaping that acts as a natural overdrive. I've loved this set-up on everything. Especially Fender model amps in a more Country rig. I usually pair it with a volume cut after the cab but didn't feel it was needed here. Feel free to throw it in some of your own presets! Wah: I haven't found a wah on the Helix that I've been a fan of. But the Throaty seems close enough to a Bad Horsie type wah. Reverb: A little plate to fall into the mix. If you're really going for a Warren tone, use very sparingly. But I personally prefer a wetter verb. Cab: Greenback 25 w/57 Mule.hlx

In your account, go to Order History. Select the book and View Invoice. Embedded in there is the activation code. Click on it, or copy/paste it into a browser.

I have been working on understanding the Pod Go files and the Helix files so I could determine how to convert between them. I have completed the first draft of the format document that explains the file formats and shows how we could convert between them. The document can be found here: For me, the next steps are: Verification of the information, by creating files and verifying against Helix (I only have the Pod Go). Creating a conversion document that shows how to convert for each item. Creating a converter. The convertor would simply "dumb down" a Helix file for Pod Go, and beef up a Pod Go file for Helix. Is this something anyone is interested in? It was a lot of fun, but a lot of work. I would like to know how much interest there is before I go further. (Side note: it looks like steps 4 and 5 could be using Rocksmith to create a presets from your favorite Rocksmith songs.) Thanks for your time. I would love to hear your thoughts.

Hi there. I just got the Helix yesterday. Many other units and keyboards have a way to lock all the presets and controls for live performance. When the unit is "locked" for live performance, the musican cannot accidentally adjust any parameters in the heat of the battle. Boss MS-3 has this lock feature if you press and hold the "save" button for 3 seconds: all knobs and mini buttons become unresponsive, until you unlock the unit. Does something like this exist in a Helix? PS: yes I am quite clumsy, and have to play a complicated set that has frequent sound changes, and the last thing I need is to accidentally start editing my patch during an important solo while people are holding up their cell phones .... or something :) Many thanks in advance, d.

You can touch the tap tempo button and the tap tempo/per snapshot/per preset setting pops up. As a matter of fact, I own 2 Helixes, and during regular rehearsals, I constantly see the tap tempo setting flash, probably due to static electricity or whatnot on the floor. So it's not having to press the menu button. My question is -- why? why do you want to give users an ability to tweak this stuff on the fly? Why can't you disable the capacitance of the switches? Lock that stuff up.

I don’t know about that... I can’t recall any multi-FX processor that ever had any sort of prompts like that for changing various settings. Usually, you just set them, and that’s that.

After abandoning hope of ever using the Line 6 Spider V app on my Mac running Mojave. I decided to once and for all try and solve this issue where the app folder was locked (see my previous post in this thread). Well... having used Macs all my life I got to thinking that maybe the locked folder was due to the fact that you could not edit the folder permissions while it was in the Applications folder on the Mac. So here is what I did and low and behold it worked: - Find the locked Line 6 folder in your Mac's Applications directory (folder) - Hold down your option key on the keyboard and drag the folder to your desktop. - Holding down the option key will make a copy of the folder on your desktop. If you don't hold down the option key it will just make an alias to the existing folder - Open that folder and now you will see the actual app file. - Drag that app to your Applications folder... Do not put it in the a sub folder. - Double click the app icon to launch the application.

Just wanted to update in case someone searches for this in the future... Had some time to undo all the screws and take out the board today. While nothing looked to be broken, I did end up getting half of the Tap Tempo LED and the missing color on half of switch 11 working while probing with a sharp chopstick. I didn't really want to risk trying to heat those tiny solder points, and they really are head of a pin tiny, so I left it at that and reassembled. Tapped the switch with more force that I ever would in the real world for about 10 minutes and everything remained working, so, while not fully restored, I'm happy with the result of a visual tempo indicator...

This was a great addition, thank you! If you add something to act as a "faux button", you can get all three FS for FX, plus the"faux-tton"! Faux-tton.mp4