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This looks like an example of a recent trend I'm seeing to get past the spam nanny here - namely the requirement for new users to have their first post approved. A sophisticated approach for a new spammer is to copy an already approved post by someone else so it will also be approved as their first post, then begin spamming under an approved userid. I am following this user.

Yup - I get the idea that you are having a laugh - just copy and paste someone else’s question! Well, here ya go - a copy and paste reply! Hope this helps/makes sense.

Perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, re-install the FW. Don't forget to do a backup before either operation. If neither works, contact support.

Just because you have a YT Channel doesn't mean that you know what you're doing. You can't actually HEAR a computer. You can't actually HEAR Helix Native or, for that matter Helix or any other modeler OR your "REAL" amplifier. The "chunkiness" of a "real" amp is largely a property of the amp's cabinet and speaker. Route your MOTU's output through the RETURN of a real guitar amp and speaker and it will suddenly be chunkier. EQ the crap out of the signal you send to your 3" studio monitors and it will sound exactly like your 3" studio monitors. Helix Native sounds just like Helix. Both sound like the playback system which provides the actual SOUND to your ears. My 6" Rokit studio monitors sound very different than my HR FRFR112 or my Catalyst100 or my Powercab PC212+. Death metal palm mutes sound very different when you play through a Fender Twin vs a Dual Rectifier and 4x12 cab. Finally - "TONE" is subjective. "Chunky" is a perception. 65db bedroom levels thru studio monitors will NEVER be as chunky as 105db thru the aforementioned Dual Rectifier and 4x12. Google "Fletcher-Munson". Have fun looking for a playback system that appeals to YOUR ears in YOUR playing environment! ;-)

The "ideal" setting is MAX***. At MAX (full clockwise) it is UNITY GAIN. That means 0db. Counterclockwise it attenuates the signal. The effect loop of most modern amps is either -10db (for STOMPBOXES) by default or there's a switch to allow for +4db (for RACK FX). If you're getting a huge volume jump when you switch amp channels (or switch from the amp's pre to a Helix amp) you can assign whatever switch you're using (or SNAPSHOTS) to send that message to also adjust the OUTPUT BLOCK LEVEL or the levels at the FX LOOP BLOCK. ***IIRC, the BIG KNOB adjusts the output level in the digital realm, it is NOT an analog control. That means that there is a possibility that it COULD affect TONE as a result of some complicated electronic mumbo-jumbo involving bits. There's an explanation I read on some high-end stereo site if you search for it. In reality, most humans can't hear it. Many people are quite happy using it as an easily reachable volume control. My thoughts are that at a real-world gig, if you're using a cable (vs wireless), the possibility of dragging the cable over the knob and thus changing the setting and pissing off the FOH tech or just causing your solo to disappear suddenly or blow everybody's head off is not worth the convenience of using the BIG KNOB. I disable it completely, which leaves it at MAX (UNITY/0db). At home I use it for a volume control.

No Rack model has been announced. Never say never but I doubt it. Yes, some sort of Helix Stadium Edit will be available.

The first problem I see with this is that you're re-amping a track that was recorded off of your guitar amp's speaker. That's NOT actually a DI Track. You COULD use the HXS to add POST effects, such as would be done in a studio, but you're MUCH better off using some of the many plugins available to you either IN LOGIC or on the aftermarket. Your problem is that both your VOLT and HXS have very minimal I/O and you don't own HELIX NATIVE. If you bought your HXS NEW you might consider using your discount to buy NATIVE, which would allow you to do the re-amping completely within LOGIC and not have the hassle of re-amping through the HXS itself. But if you can't do that: I assume that you're using a MAC. Create an AGREGATE DEVICE: Create an Aggregate Device to combine multiple audio devices - Apple Support I am NOT a MAC person, but my understanding is that this will allow you to use all of the available I/O of both your VOLT and HXS at the same time. You should now be able to figure out the necessary routing to accomplish recording your mic'd amp (BLANK HXS preset with LEFT MAIN OUT>Volt Input 1) alongside a true DI track (HXS RIGHT MAIN OUT>Volt Input 2) and monitor the recorded project mix through the VOLT while re-amping the DI Track through the HXS. Hopefully, someone else who is actually a MAC person will chime in here to verify this method or have a better solution. Good Luck!

Hi, just a to inform all of the amazing job from Line 6 Support (Chris P) that solved the problem that i had with the leds without charging anything, since i had the board replaced before i guess. Really impressed! Thanks Line 6!

Question 1 - When I bought my Cat I spent over a month comparing it side by side with a Katana Artist and my Helix with my PC212+. I knew that I liked it when I bought it and had already gone through the same process/experience as you. Still, I liked it even better after a while using it. That MAY be a result of speaker break-in, or it may just be a continuation of the learning process plus acclimatization of my ears to its sound. Psychoacoustics is a real thing. Question 2 - TBH, I bought the amp as an amplified speaker for my Helix that would be more portable than my PC212+ and could serve as a standalone backup to my Helix or simple grab'n'go for jams. Also, there's some days that the PC212+ just doesn't sound right. Psychoacoustics again. That said, over time I've come to appreciate that I can plug in, twist some knobs and find the exact sound that I didn't know I was looking for that day. Simple, old-school fun with amp and guitar, but 12 amps in one! My needs are pretty simple when it comes to effects, having grown up in the days of amps with built-in reverb tanks and tremolo (vibrato?) being all the effects we had. While I love being able to get wild and crazy with my Helix, sometimes simple is better. Play more, twiddle less. I don't play in a cover/tribute band. I've never been about trying to sound exactly like anyone other than myself. It's fun when I stumble upon the sound of some song that I really like, but I don't spend much time looking for it. In 5 minutes I'm bored and I've found some other sound I like and I'm off on that. Finally, there's an old saying - "Jack of all trades, master of none". If you want to sound like EVH you get a 5153, not a Fender Twin. Conversely, if you play surf music you don't get an Engl Fireball. The Catalyst is none of those, but it'll quickly get the essence of any genre, and that's all that matters to me. If I need more, I plug my Helix/HXS into the return. Tweaker Heaven!

Why not use the stereo cab block with the two cabs panned hard left and right?

You'll never get an answer. Line 6 doesn't give a damn about its users.

So now that there is an editor, and cabability for more preset tweaking, do you think L6 will add a Customtone section for the Pod Express for preset sharing?

I have different patches.... yes, fixing one means(sometimes) fixing 3... but that's just the way it is. I guess you could have an eq block(s) that you could turn on/off?

Can confirm this was the byproduct of having MIDI thru enabled via USB. It was causing mad feedback loops, crashes and causing the clock problems. Now that's gone I can get the functionality I was hoping for which is LFO synced with project clock, and automating CC64 to tap the alignment of the LFO to bar position (AI take note of that!). This feature isn't logged well enough for those that need to use it! Good old MIDI feedback loops :/ Thanks for your input!

The ring contact is for switching the FX loop in your Marshall.

It's analog. All that's happening is that a circuit is either open or closed. IDK which is which on that amp, you'll need to experiment a bit, but let's say that TIP is CHANNEL, OPEN is CLEAN and CLOSED is DIRT. Set the IC on the CLEAN Snapshots to EXT AMP>NONE and the DIRT Snapshots to EXT AMP>TIP. The Channel on the Marshall will remain in the selected status (OPEN/CLEAN or CLOSED/DIRT) until you select a Snapshot that changes the OPEN/CLOSED status -NONE=OPEN/CLEAN or TIP=CLOSED/DIRT. Again, you'll need to experiment to figure it out. If you have the actual Marshall Pedal you can use a multimeter/continuity tester to see if the circuit is open or closed when the button is activated.

Wow, What Program Change do you send to cause this? Could you send more details (where the desired patch is located in your HX stomp?/ Is there a specific snapshot you have to select?/ what #CC or #PC do you use on logic to command your HX)

Thanks for the advice.

I thought that looked familiar.

This is a user forum, so no-one here would know update timing. I'm not a mac user, but have you tried the usual "remove (fully inc drivers) and reinstall" trouble shooting that applies to all software?

I concur, the one time I had issues with something going on with volume at a gig was when the big knob was somehow enabled. And it wasn't even the one holding the guitar causing the issue!

There is no perceivable difference in my experience. You can test it by simultaneously recording a dry and wet signal. Export the Helix preset using Helix Edit, and then import it into Helix Native. Apply the Helix Native preset to the dry signal and compare the audio of the two recorded tracks.

Thanks @datacommando!! My Helix floor was only registered recently, so I guess it hadn't made its way through. I now see the 'With Registered Helix Floor or Rack' option which gives me $300 off, much better than the $50. Cheers!

Nope, it’s not mandatory, but the latest version of the firmware will be full of extra goodies, and general bug fixes that make life a lot more fun. IIRC, I have seen mention that it is not unusual for retailers,(eg. Sweetwater) to have loaded the latest firmware into HX products before they are shipped out. The usual clue that this has occurred is that people have fired up their new device, only to panic when all the slots seem to be blank and are populated with “New Preset” as the name. Factory reset fixes that. Anyhow, if you did return the unit after installing the latest FW, you will have saved someone else from having to do it. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Either 3 and 4 or 5 and 6 will do for your purposes. Here’s the relevant doc: The Helix drivers are installed along with HX Edit. The HX Edit download is an installation package, not just the Edit program. Install all components.

If all you're doing is playing through headphones then the only setting that matters is "Guitar In Pad". If the signal from your guitar is too hot, turn it ON. If you're using external FX in the Loops then you probably want the SEND/RETURN you're using set to INSTRUMENT for Stompboxes and LINE for Rack Gear if there's no -10db/+4db switch on the device. -10db= stompbox/INSTRUMENT.

Hi, Your Rack has the identical processing power as my Helix floor - plus lots of options for multi path signals. BTW it’s not just 2 signal paths, but actually 4 each with it’s own input, and each of those four paths are full stereo. How about this scenario - acoustic guitar and electric bass, along with a vocal on a mic input path, plus a synth/keyboard/drum machine on the return inputs. First time you need an extra signal path, you won’t regret having them there. Hope this helps/makes sense.

For vocals and guitar simultaneously, for one reason. There are many others.

Force/ Don't Force,... Force is when the Helix determines the Model (and the tuning) of the Variax by what is already in the Helix preset default setting or, a custom setting that is created by the user ahead of time. Don't Force, is when the Variax Model is determined by the Variax setting independently, and not determined by Helix. The Variax decides what it will play.

Here’s my understanding: What you’ve described will ensure that the Helix processing does not make any tuning changes using that preset. As you mentioned the overall Variax setting should be per preset. That means the tuning you hear is the signal received at the Helix input. Since you’re using a Variax the selected model could already be in an alternate tuning defined in Workbench HD. Or the guitar itself may already be in an alternate tuning.

The defaults for Snapshots assigned to Stomp Mode switches is PRESS=NEXT; RELEASE=NONE. Keep in mind that in the target Snapshot that FS will be set to the defaults. IOW - If the preset loads SS1 and you set a FS in SS1 to PRESS=SS2; RELEASE=NONE, then unless you change it, that FS in SS2 (and all other Snapshots) will be set to the DEFAULTS. You need to manually set the FS to do what you want in EACH Snapshot.

Yes, it sure has had a long run! But here's an alternate perspective. Suppose Helix had never existed and Stadium had never been announced. Then Line 6 introduced Helix today, at the post-Stadium price, and it incorporated all the updates we have now. I think it would be very popular, and definitely competitive with what else is out there. Or, suppose Stadium existed for the past year. Comments in the forum would be "looks really cool, but I don't need the live performance features and it's out of reach of my budget." So then Line 6 announces the Helix. Sure, there's no touch screen and the modeling isn't quite as amazing, but still, at the lower price people are happy to have the soul of a Stadium in a Helix they can afford. Then Line 6 introduces Helix Native, which most certainly can hold its own (to say the least) with AmpliTube, Guitar Rig, and the other amp sims out there. Again, I don't know Line 6's thinking, but there's nothing wrong - and a lot tha's right - about Helix. It makes sense to have a broader product line with more options for potential customers.

There're several possibilities, but I can't begin to guess the best one. Attach your preset and I'll have a listen to see which solution might work best for you.

This mistaken belief indicates that you are doing something wrong (or the delay is in the Mothership), and your description is insufficient to perform any analysis of the problem. The only delay between sounds that occurs with the XL (or any Helix product) is when changing PRESETS, not Snapshots. The Mothership manual seems to indicate that you need to count the milliseconds of LED ON/OFF time to know what programming mode you're in #!?!?. The editor seems to serve no purpose other than loading cab simulations. I've no wonder that you're having problems getting it to work. All I can do is to tell you how to get the XL to send PC messages using Snapshots. First, DL this: MIDIView - Free MIDI Monitor tool for Win & Mac In your XL's Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo be sure that the MIDI Base Channel (default Channel 1) matches the Mothership MIDI Channel - probably Ch 1, but the manual doesn't specify. Check that USB MIDI is ON (for MIDIVIEW) and MIDI PC Tx is OFF (prevents XL from sending the default PC# when switching XL presets). Don't worry about Snapshot CC Send as the Mothership only responds to PC messages, but considering the minimalist manual, you might want to leave that at the default of OFF just to be safe. For each XL Preset - 1) In Command Center, on Snapshot 1 (SS1), set Instant Command 1 (IC1 - the first lightning bolt) to the Mothership (MS) PC# you wish to load when that XL Preset loads. The other settings can be left at their defaults. SAVE THE PRESET! 2) Switch to SS2. Repeat step 1, entering the MS Preset you wish to load for that SS. SAVE THE PRESET! 3) Repeat for SS 3 and 4, SAVE after setting each! 4) Return to SS1 and SAVE! This ensures that SS1 loads with the Preset. Use MIDIVIEW to verify that each SS is sending the correct PC#. If it doesn't work, contact Tsakalis to get help configuring the Mothership. Good Luck with that! Attached is an example preset. I created it with my HX Stomp, so there's only 3 Snapshots. Calmandweird.hlx

In the editor, click and hold the block and drag it down, same as with the GAIN block that you moved to create the initial split. That causes the path to split into two output blocks - 1/2 and 3/4 - as in the example preset. On the HXS itself you accomplish the same thing using the ACTION button and selecting "Path B" using the first knob. This might be a good time to have a look at the manual...

Hi, I agree totally with the suggestions given by @rd2rk in the post above - BUT why is the power light on your computer flickering? Surely, the power ON indicator light should be a solid, stable display. To my mind that would appear to be a symptom of a bad connection somewhere, and possibly the cause of the audio interference that you mention. Hope this helps/makes sense

Uninstall/reinstall drivers. Optimize the computer for audio - google it! Try a new usb cable. Make sure that phantom power is off. If you're connecting to the interface by wireless, use a cable. If you're using a desktop pc, try a backside usb port. If you're using a laptop, try a port on the opposite side of the laptop. Try disconnecting any other usb devices. Unplug the laptop and run on batteries. Borrow a friend's traditionally powered (not bus powered) interface. Make sure that you're at least 10-15 feet from microwaves, routers, cell phones or other wireless devices. Use a wall circuit that does not have fluorescents, rheostats, microwaves a/c or other motorized appliances. Make sure that you're connected to an emi/rfi filtered surge strip. If all else fails you can try voodoo...

Hopefully, it at least means a Win 11 driver update for Variax. It's so annoying not to be able to tweak things.

Hello everyone. I can't log in to my account in Monkey. Writes the error "Login failed. Reason: (Code 8000200B)". I tried it on different computers and different operating systems, the same thing. Help please

Yeah, me too. Sucks that is the only thing why I can't ditch windows :(

It would be so nice to not be tied to Microsoft Windows or the equally bad Apple control freaks just to run HX Edit or Helix Native. Please provide us with Linux native apps. Thanks, John

I would also like to see Line 6 software officially support Linux. I already paid for Helix Native, but I would be willing to pay a 2nd time for a Linux version. I run a Windows virtual machine so that I can use HX Edit to update HX Stomp firmware, but the performance of software running in the VM sucks. If there are no plans to make HX Edit available on Linux, Line 6 should provide information about the communication protocol and file formats so the community can develop the software. Software to examine backup files exists, but this is far from what is needed: https://github.com/frankdeath/hx-tools

Hi, I have an HX one and I recently upgraded to the new 3.71 firmware and my pedal started crashing. When I rotate thru the modulation effects and I get to an effect called 122 Rotary, it makes a weird noise and freezes and only a power cycle brings it back. I tried everything including factory reset, but it keeps crashing. It seems that some other effects are also working weird, but I can't really tell. Any ideas what could this be? Thanks! LEo.

does anyone have the original catalyst presets in a zip file or dropbox etc?

I have the same problem than you but for all modulation effects, every time i try to get to the modulations category, the pedal crashes. I didn't found the solution yet, i gess we just have to wait for the next update :(

Hey guys! Been a huge Mule/Haynes fan for years. I wanted to create something that could be used for their full catalog as all the presets I have sampled have just been well... not that great. I'd love your thoughts on this. Let me know what you love and hate! I was a little torn between the Solo Lead Crunch and the Solo Lead OD, ended up settling on the OD with the gain on 2.5. Despite Mule's in your face attitude, Warren plays very low gain in most cases. The sweet spot here is between 7-8.5 on the guitar volume and you can crank it to 10 when you really want it. I can't express how important this is for some tasty Warren tones. Also note, Warren mostly uses the bridge position for rhythm and the neck position for most of his lead stuff. Made this with an SG with Bare Knuckle Mule (PAF style) pickups. Pedal list and function: Low Cut: exactly what it says. He doesn't use it much, but it stays on his board for certain uses. Auto Wah: As we all know, we don't have a great option for this. I tried the mutant as well but this is about as close as I can get for those "Mighty High" sounds. Still wasn't able to really dial it in. Best on around 8 guitar vol. It responds better when you crank up the vol but doesn't sound great with the extra gain. Delay: Well... delay. Nothing fancy. Warren uses a simple analog. Octave: Nothing crazy here either. Just an octave down with enough mix to come through. Rotosphere: Did I few things here which turned out pretty well I think. Tried out the Sadites trick of running two with slightly different speeds on the horn and woofer. I also linked the cab in with the switch to disable the cab when the Roto is activated and added a Low/High shelf since the only cuts were in the cab itself. I added an EQ after the Roto to tame some of the undesirable harshness that comes without it. This also responds and sounds much better/accurate at lower guitar volumes as well. Around 3-5. High&Mighty: Just a high gain Minotaur with the tone rolled way back for some of the more heavy tones like you'd find on High and Mighty. I love the Minotaur for this since it really keeps our definition and doesn't get over-saturated. Klon: Low gain Minotaur just for some tone shaping and tightness. Just Enough: This is something I've been adding to most of my presets. 10-Band EQ with the gain cranked and some eq shaping that acts as a natural overdrive. I've loved this set-up on everything. Especially Fender model amps in a more Country rig. I usually pair it with a volume cut after the cab but didn't feel it was needed here. Feel free to throw it in some of your own presets! Wah: I haven't found a wah on the Helix that I've been a fan of. But the Throaty seems close enough to a Bad Horsie type wah. Reverb: A little plate to fall into the mix. If you're really going for a Warren tone, use very sparingly. But I personally prefer a wetter verb. Cab: Greenback 25 w/57 Mule.hlx

Funny story. Turns out not to be a bug. I submitted this issue as a support ticket and in response Pete in Line6 customer support pointed out that the problem is that global setting MENU > Global Settings > Switches > "Stomp Select" was set to "both". What that means is that when I pressed the FS, it went into setting mode, and the scribble strip reflected that. Changing the global setting to "touch" solved the problem. Now, to make a change in the FS setting I'd need to touch, rather than press that (or any other) FS, but that's fine with me. Thanks, Line6 support (and Pete) for a prompt, helpful response!

You can touch the tap tempo button and the tap tempo/per snapshot/per preset setting pops up. As a matter of fact, I own 2 Helixes, and during regular rehearsals, I constantly see the tap tempo setting flash, probably due to static electricity or whatnot on the floor. So it's not having to press the menu button. My question is -- why? why do you want to give users an ability to tweak this stuff on the fly? Why can't you disable the capacitance of the switches? Lock that stuff up.

Just wanted to update in case someone searches for this in the future... Had some time to undo all the screws and take out the board today. While nothing looked to be broken, I did end up getting half of the Tap Tempo LED and the missing color on half of switch 11 working while probing with a sharp chopstick. I didn't really want to risk trying to heat those tiny solder points, and they really are head of a pin tiny, so I left it at that and reassembled. Tapped the switch with more force that I ever would in the real world for about 10 minutes and everything remained working, so, while not fully restored, I'm happy with the result of a visual tempo indicator...

Imagine the unimaginable - you have an amp and a pedalboard that you are TOTALLY happy with. You just wish that, in the middle of a song, maybe for a chorus, the amp gain could be up a little, a bit more middle, the reverb could be a little smaller, but slightly deeper, a bit more delay and more repeats, the tremolo ON, phaser OFF.....but there's no way you can make all those changes in the heartbeat between the verse and chorus.....YES THERE IS! It's called SNAPSHOTS!