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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/04/2020 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    I can't answer the detailed technical questions but can maybe provide some useful guidelines. Biased hot: Stronger overall output, more lows, not as much clean headroom, more saturation and less cutoff distortion, more even order harmonics, tubes wear out faster. Biased cold: Weaker, thin, harsh output, Lows aren't as strong, more clean headroom overall, more cutoff and less saturation distortion, more odd-order harmonics, and the tubes don't breakup as fast. I don't know what the range of the Bias control is, but I would expect 5 to be where the tubes are normally biassed, 0 is colder, 10 is hotter - but how hot/cold is unknown. The above applies to typical Fender, Vox and Marshall amps where the majority of the distortion is coming from the power tubes, and where negative feedback is lost (because the power tubes are clipping and have no more gain), and therefore damping factor be lower. For modern high gain amps where most to the distortion is coming from the preamp section, power tube bias can have a very different impact. A slightly colder bias might tighten up the amp, and improve the transient response. Hotter bias might result in less controlled tone and too much muddy bass. So biasing hotter for blues in small amps and biasing colder for metal in high-gain amps might be something to try. Bias excursion is caused by distorting power tubes causing increased grid current which charges the coupling capacitor between the phase inverter and power tube, which changes the bias of the power tubes. When the input stops, the coupling capacitor slowly discharges allowing the power tube bias to recover. This could make an amp that is biased hotter, become colder biased as it is pushed further into distortion, changing the color of the distortion. Maybe when the hotter biased power tubes are pushed to the edge of breakup there might be warmer even order harmonics, and better bass. As the tube is pushed harder the bias gets colder, there might be more odd order harmonics for more aggressive sounding distortion, and the bass might be reduced.
  2. 3 points
    "Undecided" - Ella Fitzgerald First you say you do And then you don't And then you say you will And then you won't You're undecided now So what are you gonna do? Now you want to play And then it's no And when you say you'll stay That's when you go You're undecided now So what are you gonna do? ----------------------------------------------------------- DUDE! Get over yourself! Many thousands of people are happily using Helix Native EVERY DAY with MANY different DAWs. Just because you can't figure out how to use it with YOUR DAW, and haven't got the patience to learn, don't bad mouth the product! I personally use Helix Native with 3 different DAWs - Reaper, Cakewalk and Ableton LIVE. I got no problems like you can't handle. You said we got it working for you, then you got PO'd and QUIT, so I'm not even sure what your problem is! I had never used Snapshots in Native, took me 5 minutes to work out. It works JUST LIKE THE HARDWARE! FWIW - I tried Cubase and thought it was the most un-intuitive, difficult to navigate POS I'd ever had the misfortune of wasting my time on. Did you notice - nobody chimed in with "HI! I use Cubase, here's how you do it!"? Not that Cubase is necessarily the problem, but it sure ISN'T Native! Let's see, what's that leave........? So, kick back, have a beer, smoke a doob, and when you're ready, come on back and we'll fix it for ya!
  3. 3 points
    Wish I could say the same...it updated without issue and functions normally...however, the battery life went from 6 hours+ on a full charge to less than 3 hours now, literally overnight. I'm sure safety improvements make the lawyers happy, but if the price is cutting the device's usefulness in half, I'd rather have taken my chances with an overheating battery...I had no issues with more than a year of almost daily use. Normally I know when to leave well enough alone, but instead I went along with the recommendations instead of my gut. Last time I'll do that. Already opened a ticket...we shall see.
  4. 2 points
    Glad it worked for ya- Think you could change the "Joke" comment to "solved" in the topic now?
  5. 2 points
    However, what you hear playing the patch with your guitar using your amp or speakers may not be even close to what the patch creator hears using his equipment. That’s one of the main stumbling blocks with Customtone. There’s much more than just the patch involved in the signal that travels from your fingers to your ears.And each component can have a dramatic effect on what you hear. Often when I download and listen to a patch I don’t think it sounds at all like the title or description suggests it should sound like. That doesn’t mean the patch creator did a poor job. More likely it means our external equipment is quite different.
  6. 2 points
    I have gone through my own personal journey of sending the helix out to a cabinet for a bit. I had a powercab and just did not love it. I then picked up a used Mooer Tube Engine, which is a 20Watt tube power amp. I was only looking for something to amplify my helix into a regular guitar cab. I have a few cabs that cover quite a lot of ground and wanted to use those. I tried it with just the preamps, because theoretically I only needed a pre because the Mooer was the power amp, and discovered that the interaction between the pre and power amp modeling in the helix was key to the amp models sounding the way I expected them. There are several of the amp models that rely on Power amp distortion to give the amps true character. The tweeds are a good example of this. When you the tweeds the break up from the preamp only just did not sound right at all. I also found that many of the pres are at different levels of output and it takes feeding them into the modeled power amp to get the levels right. So then I went to trying to run full models into the Mooer and that did not work for me either. The emulated power amp being fed into an external power amp seemed to muddy up the tone and change the character of the amp model in a bad way, to my ears. Again, I am only playing at home, so having gig level volumes were not important to me. At this point, I took a shot on a Mooer Baby Bomb. It is a solid state power amp that adds, to my ears, very little character to what is fed into it...given that you do not crank it up and drive it into breakup. This allowed me to run the full amp model, sans helix cab or ir, into my guitar cabinets. To date this creates my favorite tones I have gotten from my helix providing an amp in the room experience. The one thing I will point out about the Baby Bomb, in case it becomes a consideration for anyone, is that the power supply is not grounded. I got major hum and noise from it because of that. I had on hand a few of those Hum-X adapters on hand and using one of those fixed the problems I had with the baby bomb. There are several other solid state power amps and I am guessing most of them would work just as well, if not better than the Babay Bomb. But in my opinion to get an accurate representation of the amp model with a guitar cab, having the power amp model is key to it sounding like the rel thing. then to amplify it, you need a neutral sounding power amp device that does not color the model taking away from the models intended sound.
  7. 2 points
    This is just personal preference. Some like the "amp in the room" sound and a PowerCab might be best for this as @rd2rk is outlining. Others may want an FRFR such as the Headrush (or many other options) so they hear their sound similar to the FOH, but still separate so they have better control of what they hear. Then there are users like myself.... give me the FOH and Monitor (fold back) any day, every day. Even when I used to use amps they were kept fairly quiet, were miced up, and fed back to me through my monitor. My preference (#3) does have a caveat attached though. It only works well when the gear meets a certain quality. The FOH and monitors need to meet a standard, and separate monitor mixes are a must. When requirements are not met, I have a Yorkville powered wedge/speaker to get me through those gigs.... in other words, I'm not against sliding back to option #2 when I have to. No right, no wrong... find what works for you and run with it.
  8. 2 points
    To get back to your original question. There's no particular benefit in connecting to a powered speaker such as the Headrush and then out to the PA, but there are some particular disadvantages. One limitation in particular is that you really can't easily control your volume for your stage monitor separate from your output to the PA. What many of us do is send a 1/4" output at line level to the powered speaker and a XLR output at mic level to the mixing board with the XLR line disengaged from large Helix volume knob. This allows you to use the large Helix volume knob to control the volume of the stage speaker and send a full signal to the board which can be gain staged at the board to the appropriate level separate from whatever you do on stage. When it comes to Powercab versus a full range powered speaker, that's ultimately a matter of personal preference. I can't say I've ever been that interested in a Powercab setup because I started using my Yamaha DXR12 setup long before the Powercab came out. I think the Powercab is a nice option for those people that prefer more of an "amp in the room" kind of sound on stage. But that comes with the trade off of not having an accurate picture of what your sound is out front which is what's important to me personally....especially when I'm dialing in my presets at home. There are a couple of considerations to bear in mind when using a powered speaker however. First, if placed on the floor in a monitor position you can get an effect referred to as "bass coupling" which accentuates low end frequencies. On most higher end speakers you have DSP contouring options on the speaker that allow you to correct for this effect. The Headrush has no such option, so you would need to isolate it from the floor in some way or place it upright on a stand. The other consideration is that powered speakers are specifically designed to work differently from traditional cabinets in the way they project sound in order to have consistent tone across a wide area and to project better across long distances. That being the case they can sound pretty harsh close up, so when dialing in patches at home you need to give them a bit of space. For myself at home I have mine mounted vertically around chest height and I normally listen from about 6 feet away as well as off-axis to get a good feel for what the tone will ultimately be like for the audience. Likewise on stage I have my DXR12 mounted on a half height pole on the backline behind me. That allows the sound to disperse wider across the stage so it's easier for the band to blend with.
  9. 2 points
    The HX Stomp and HX Effects User Manuals were published long after the existing Helix Floor User Manual dating back to Summer 2016 at the time firmware 2.1 was released. Notwithstanding the reduced feature sets of the HX Stomp and HX Effects, compared to the Helix Floor, there are useful bits of information to be found in these more recent User Manuals. As has already been posted, until Helix firmware version 3.0 arrives with a fully updated User Manual, the current task involves a compilation of information from existing product documentation plus the various interim firmware Release Notes along with a variety of informative posts from Line 6 developers. HelixHelp.com is very useful.
  10. 2 points
    Yeah, I’ve had mine a year or two longer. It’s still so satisfying and amazing.
  11. 2 points
    SUCCESS!! So I was having the same frustrating SPINNING WHEEL issue while using Logic Pro as many others... but I made one change that seems to have fixed the problem! I just turned off my internet connection (WiFi) then tried opening the plugin in Logic, but this time instead of it causing the constant spinning wheel, it prompted me for my account login info (...because of no internet connection). But this time where I had previously been connecting over my home Wi-Fi... I instead connected to my iPhone via PERSONAL HOTSPOT... typed in my password and it loaded right up! And after that first successful attempt I now seem to be able to use my home Wi-Fi without any issues and everything seems to be working as it should! DANG....FINALLY!!!
  12. 1 point
    2.9 Model Updates: -Revv Purple (Ch3) -1x12 Fullerton and Grammatico Cabs -Red Llama Drive -Steve Vai Legendary Drive -Harmonic Antagonizer Fuzz -Rochester Comp (Billy Sheehan Compressor) -Small Stone Phaser -Split Dynamics (Path A/B Routing) Feature Updates: -Output Meters -Gain Reduction Meters -Clip Indicators -IR Attachment by Name -New Switch/Snap/Looper Layout Options -New Model Subcategory Shortcuts -Update from HX Edit -A/B Compare for HX Native Available “soon.”
  13. 1 point
    Unfortunately Line 6 does not allow for comments on the Customtone Page. All we have to go on are the star ratings, which are not very helpful. I have D/L several 5star rated tones with Lots of downloads, and they were not good, and I have downloaded some with no stars and few downloads and got some good tones. Linking comments and reviews would be very helpful. The Helix is capable of some of the best tones available yet finding them is like pulling teeth, and most (not all) require use of 3rd party IR's. It would be nice to be able to find good tones easily with the addition of outside 3rd party IR's or plugins. Just to be accurate the Dual Marshall tone is best used on a Humbucking Bridge pickup. It might sound good on single coil or neck pickups, but I wouldn't know. I use an EVH Wolfgang Standard and a 2019 Charvel San Dimas. I only use the Neck pickup as a pinch harmonic locator, lol. I have added a couple of Presets that I have found to sound very good. They have not been tinkered with and are As-is from the customtone page. Petrucci Mark IV.hlx Van Halen One.hlx
  14. 1 point
    Thanks try it asap - appreciate it
  15. 1 point
    Hi. I download the HELIX NATIVE trial version to evaluate if work or not for me, because I want to buy the HELIX STOMP. I play Guitar and Keys and I need a Guitar FX unit with midi to control from the Kronos Sequencer: to change between the snapshots (SS) and different values in the blocks. So, to try the sound and the functionality I try with HN (Helix Native) and guys........ This is a complete waste of time.!!!!! My DAW is Cubase PRO last version. I create a new PATCH with only 6 blocks., like HN and using only 3 SS. When you change the SS 1 to 2 or 3, the values are the same. Doesn't change!! Sometimes one of the blocks bypass on/off work... but that's it.!! SO.... If the Helix Stomp work with the MIDI and values like the software, I DONT Want it..!!! I make all the combination. Bypass SS, no bypass SS, Automation the SS just the parameter, save a new patch, close and open again... and NOTHING. IS COMPLETY RAMDOM. Any advise..? Im very disappointing with this functionality. Not the sound.!! Thanks.!!!!
  16. 1 point
    Even the world's best tools are no better than a simple hammer in the hands of people who don't know how (or take the time) to learn them. ;) Likewise, real amps and analog gear can also sound terrible, if you don't know how to set the knobs, dials, and sliders! Glad you're enjoying yours. I bought mine last year fully expecting to have buyer's remorse. But instead I still appreciate it every time I turn it on and play. Side note -- this is one of the downsides of making advanced technology and professional equipment so readily available to everyone. When the barrier to entry falls, it becomes hard to sort out human error from flawed products. You can give everyone on earth the best paints and canvas money can buy, but most of the example work you'll see from it will be a total mess :)
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    For now, I'm stuck playing through headphones most of the time, sadly. I use an old (but great!) set of Sennheiser HD580 headphones with the Helix, and they work very well together. For the occasions where I decide I'm going to be a bit of a jerk to my neighbors, I just use an old set of Logitech Z-2300 200W full-range speakers+subwoofer which sound surprisingly good from the Helix output. Not gigging with any of it currently. FWIW, I spend a lot of time tweaking patches and building tones with the Helix, and I think the biggest payoffs to be had come from that -- just my opinion. It's tweakable enough that feel, touch response, stereo imaging, frequency response, etc. -- all of those things can be finely-manipulated within the Helix itself. But I also very much understand those who just want to put a couple simple blocks in their patch, plug in to a monitor, and immediately have the sounds of a Marshall full-stack without any extra tweaking.
  19. 1 point
    I'm afraid I've got no experience with any of them -- I use my Helix by itself because I currently live in an apartment :) So hopefully others here can give recommendations!
  20. 1 point
    The great thing about Helix is that you have many different options. I have 2 HR FRFR112, DT25, and Powercab+ (PC+112) for playing/practicing/experimenting at home. I get great results in pretty much any combination I dream up. I'm blown away by the wet-dry-wet setup using the FRFR112 and Powercab+. Absolutely amazing when doing ambient stuff. But on stage, I have only used in-ears. I just don't feel like lugging around more stuff now. But there are legitimate reasons for wanting a back line or floor monitors etc. For me, the most important reason would be that the guitar interacts with the sound of amplification nearby. , especially a loud tube amp. For some reason, that interaction inspires players beyond just playing their practiced parts. Everyone is different of course. The nice thing about the PC+ is that you can plug into the back and send it directly to FOH. It's nice to be able to put IR's on the PC+ or use the speak emulations directly. It offloads some load from the Helix. You could do the same from the FRFR112 I suppose, but there is no reason to do so because you have both XLR outputs (to go directly to FOH) and 1/4 outputs to go to your FRFR112's. And if you setup your Helix up to have the volume button control only the 1/4 outs (like i do), then you can control the FRFR112 volume from the helix using the master volume and not change the input gain on the FOB board. Enjoy your gear!
  21. 1 point
    When you've been around here a while you'll realize that everybody has a feature that they can't understand why it wasn't in the original release, but that lots of other users couldn't care less about. In nature, the process of adding features is called "evolution", and it takes millions of years. The feature you're asking for will be here a lot sooner than that! I don't know if the Headrush has this feature, but I do know that there's so much more that it's missing (IMO) that if I was buying again today it would still be a Helix. YMMV.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Same here. Opened a ticket last Saturday March 14. Still waiting for a reply from Line6...
  24. 1 point
    Well it seems to be working well now. Not to get anyone's hopes up (in fact I'll only post this here) I recall this often happening when (dare I say it) a new update was getting ready to drop.
  25. 1 point
    I've cracked this. They are bad instructions on YouTube and their help page (below). First you must choose an option in the first pulldown ("Relay G10"), not leave it as "All Hardware” as it says on YouTube (although they do say to complete it on their website). Then after updating the receiver and continuing, you should see the transmitter listed (GT10T) as well as the receiver. Before you update the receiver, you will only see the receiver to update. What’s missing on YouTube and their website (https://line6.com/support/page/kb/live-sound/relay-digital-wireless/how-to-update-the-relay-g10g10s-firmware-r931/ ) is clearer instructions a to what to do and select after the receiver has been updated.
  26. 1 point
    If you're updating a Helix (vs a G10) download and install the HX Edit file, NOT the Updater. That file will install the Updater and all drivers. If you try to update without installing HX Edit, you might have problems.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Sorry about that... you are correct. I'm not sure how that happened, but I have removed it to avoid any confusion for future readers. I knew that was Randino... I just never noticed the wrong user tagged to the quote.
  29. 1 point
    These are the answers. I'll just add that you will never succeed in making any amp sound like "the real amp" because the Badonk is not a model of a real amp - it's a Line6 original. The Badonk IS the real amp.
  30. 1 point
    No. Just cavities for the electronics.
  31. 1 point
    Would it be possible to browse custom tones by sorting them by tags, like genre or type, without having to search? I feel like having to guess key words really limits the ability to share original patches with the Spider V Community. For instance, I would like to try to find off the wall and weird experimental / ambient like patches. If i type in ambient, only the people who uploaded their contribution using that tag, would i only then get a match. If someone chose the word trippy, and I typed in groovy instead, we don't have a match. I just think the ability to browse the tones vs having to search for them, hoping luck is on your side. Great amp otherwise, my only gripe is the wireless g10 dongle squealing when it gets plugged into any of my active guitars. (I read the active setups trick the dongle into thinking it is charging? Who knows, that is for another thread.) Thanks in advance!!
  32. 1 point
    Both at home and at practice, I use a Tech 21 Power Engine Deuce Deluxe Also have a Roland JC-40 I can use.
  33. 1 point
    Go to Global Settings>Switches>Snpsht Mode and set it to Latching if you want the snapshots to remain up after you select one. They're flashing because it's set to Momentary. The update resets the Global Settings to their default, so if you didn’t restore from backup after doing the update, that’s why this setting would have changed.
  34. 1 point
    Has anyone checked out the SIM1 XT-1? I am mega excited about this and wondering if this sort of technology is something that could appear down the line in the Helix. https://www.sim-one.it/ Even better, has anyone here got one or tinkered with one? If so is it as good as they are making out? It looks to me that you can make a sound imprint of your own guitar (or other peoples) and play that imprint on a different guitar. If this is the case, this could be an absolute game changer! Given that L6 has had Variax for so long albeit with its idiosyncrasies and glitches, and how faithful the reproductions of actual amps are in the Helix, surely this has to be in the realms of reality?
  35. 1 point
    i have the exact same problem in 2020 - anybody got a solution ?
  36. 1 point
    Hi and thanks siverhead! Let me say that your level of detail was very helpful, and made me realise that I was not as specific as I needed to be when posing my dilemma. Let me explain, I have a Helix rack, using a W10 PC with Reaper 6: -I have connected guitar and mic to respective H>elix inputs. -I have separate blocks, one for guitar and one for microphone, no connection. Guitar out usb1/2, mic out usb 3/4. -Helix is connected to PC via usb - in global settings I have increased the gain all the way, just to be sure. -I have created two tracks in reaper and designated guitar in "guitar" from the above 1/2 out from Helix, and likewise mic in from the 3/4 Helix out -Reaper has been used countless times and is ASIO source from Helix, has worked fine previously What I get is a very strong signal from the guitar, but no signal from the mic. I have worked with the routing matrix in Reaper, and tried all sorts of variations, but either get only guitar signal or no signal at all as I have screwed something up. At this point I close Reaper and start over, usually getting a very strong guitar signal but no mic signal input. There are so many adjustments, what could be missed?!
  37. 1 point
    Hi, First thing that I need to mention is, when seeking assistance from the users of this forum, it is a great help to supply as much relevant information as possible. Help us to help you. O.K. Here we go! I’m not a Stomp owner, I have a Helix floor, but the routine is almost the same. To clarify - You have just bought a brand new HX Stomp and you have it hooked up via USB to your Mac running Mojave. So far, so good. Now you need to install HX Edit for your unit and you have downloaded a disk image (.dmg) which appears to be corrupted. I would suggest that before you proceed is to verify the FW version that is currently installed on your hardware unit. You need to go to Line 6 Software Downloads using either this link or by clicking on "DOWNLOADS" in the menu at the top of this page: https://line6.com/software/index.html Under "-All Hardware -" select “HX Stomp”, then under "-All Software-" select "HX Edit" and then select Mac OSX from the "-All OS-" drop down menu, then click the 'GO" button. This will take you to the page where you can download the correct version of the software that you need. Scroll down to find the version that matches your Stomp, then simply click on the big blue "GET DOWNLOAD" button. Now you will be taken to the EULA page where you should then click "ACCEPT AND DOWNLOAD" to complete the transfer of the software to your computer’s downloads folder. When the download is complete the checksum will be verified automatically and you should be able to launch the “.dmg” file which will install the matching HX Edit app for your model. You should now be able to launch HX Edit to make a back up of your installed presets. NOTE: the version number of HX Edit and the number of the Firmware must match to work correctly! Additional note: The Line 6 MD5 Checksum Utility is a Windows command line program, not Mac. Also, if the checksum fails - try the download again and turn off any blocker software, (i.e. Little Snitch etc.) that may be interfering with your download and installation. Once you have a backup of your presets you may find it advisable to update your firmware to the latest version. Here’s how. Hope this helps/makes sense.
  38. 1 point
    So if I got this right no manual exists for the spider remote app and the instructions for my V20 MKII are only marginal. I'm 72 yrs and I don't have another lifetime to learn all the features and would appreciate a help screen on the web site that is product and app specific. It appears to be a great product, but unless you are a professional or a bloody genius it becomes mind numbing!
  39. 1 point
    I'll post this because I hate it when people find solutions but never post what theirs was. I had, as far as i am aware, the exact same problem. What I did was i closed the license manager window and went to the "update line 6 monkey". I logged in and it said it was having trouble connecting to my device. so i used the button on the left side of the menu to connect to my device. It was having troubles finding devices and suggested I unplug and re-plug in the USB for my device (which I did) and tried again. After it detected all my devices, it managed to find the UX2 and i simply "ok'd" the selection. after that i went back to the license manager and it was able to see and authorize my product. I've yet to confirm that everything works, but i did get the authorization to complete after having your issue.
  40. 1 point
    What interface is it? Is there are way to pan the inputs on it?
  41. 1 point
    particularly since the account was just created the day of the post, lol there's literally nothing there except the one post damn privacy idiots. i am going to post pictures of what i eat for lunch, and then complain that people know what i eat for lunch.
  42. 1 point
    See, I have thought about this quite a bit (especially as it has been raised again and again, even just in this rather short thread), I even stepped back (for other reasons as well, but still...) from the idea of perhaps having IRs embedded in a patch file. I think the percentage of illegally shared Helix patches and their required IRs would perhaps raise by 0.0001% or so (ok, it might as well be 0.001%), simply because exporting IRs from the Helix is as easy as it gets already. If one wanted to do something against this, the best way would perhaps be to not allow any IR export from the Helix - and believe it or don't, I'd be perfectly fine with that. All the IRs I need are on my drives already anyway. And I can keep gazillions there and back them up for the rest of my life as well (these things are just too small to worry). Basically, all I want is HX Edit to tell me "You need "GreatIR_01.wav" for this patch to work - can't find it in the internal memory, search drives for it, yes/no?" And in case the internal memory would be full already, I would like it to continue with "Insufficient storage space for "GreatIR_01.wav", want me to look for unused IRs, yes/no?", obviously followed by a dialog allowing me to delete any number of unused IRs. And then, as the final option, in case there's no unused IRs anymore, I'd like HX Edit to show me which IRs are used by which patches, so I could probably find some that I could delete manually.
  43. 1 point
    Indeed they do. I just replaced the tap tempo switch on my helix floor. It crapped out first. Almost all the line 6 products I've owned over the years have had at least one of their switches start to fail. I love 'em, but I've come to accept it as part of owning Line 6 products. Helix is no different. On Helix Floor, the switches are all on one PCB along with the scribble strips. Remove the two screws per footswitch assembly on the back of the PCB, the ground cable screw on the top-right, disconnect the two ribbon cables, and the board comes right out. Make sure the leave the Helix itself upside down, or the small springs and pads will fall out of the footswitch assemblies. You definitely don't want to lose those. I picked up a 100 pack of the small switches on Amazon for under $10. They're the same as the ones you'd buy from Full Compass. I just solder a new one in when needed.
  44. 1 point
    Yes! It WAS the USB cable! I changed it for my printer cable and the updates loaded correctly. However, just in case I installed the firmware in sequential order. I didn't want to take the chance on it corrupting again. After I did that, I had no problems.
  45. 1 point
    So, is it possible to put 2 independent guitars in one Helix instance and one signal chain (eg no 2 amps). It's too time consuming to adjust effects parameters for 2 chains eg in metal music, where both guitars 90% of the time sound the same.
  46. 1 point
    I got to hit the road right now so I can't dig for it but wasn't there a different calibration procedure for the MKI? While I don't have a HD Pro I've used the MKI with the HD Bean for years (until its death, then a MKII). I'm back and found a description from Sweetwater's page (hope it works): 1. Attach the RJ45 cable from your Line6 device to your FBV pedal board. Once your Line 6 device is powered up, your FBV SHORTBOARD’s LEDs should cycle and the display should read “LINE 6†with the backlight lit up. 2. Move the ONBOARD pedal to the center position, roughly halfway between the MAXIMUM and MINIMUM position. 3. Press STOMP + DELAY + REVERB and hold for three seconds to begin calibration of the ONBOARD pedal. 4. Move the ONBOARD pedal to its MAXIMUM position (pedal all the way toe down) and press down hard enough to actuate the pedal’s toe switch. 5. Move the ONBOARD pedal to its MINIMUM position and press down (pedal all the way heel down). ***If you have an EXTERNAL pedal, hook it up to your FBV SHORTBOARD now and continue on to step six. If you do NOT have an external pedal, simply turn OFF you Line 6 device, you are done calibrating. 6. Move the EXTERNAL pedal to the center position, roughly halfway between the MAXIMUM and MINIMUM position. 7. Press BANK DOWN + STOMP + DELAY and hold for three seconds, to begin calibration of the EXTERNAL pedal. 8. Move the EXTERNAL pedal to its MAXIMUM position (pedal all the way toe down). 9. Move the EXTERNAL pedal to its MINIMUM position and press down (pedal all the way heel down). 10. Turn OFF your Line 6 device. You have just calibrated your EXTERNAL pedal.
  47. 1 point
    For years, lots of devices that don't know anything about beat divisions have let you set delay time by tapping, just sets it to the average time between your taps. The MIDI-related beat/tempo stuff is certainly useful, IF you're synched to a DAW or something, but it shouldn't have replaced basic common sense tap-tempo functionality if you're not.
  48. 1 point
    right - here's some more findings, and it's all good. it seems the FX buttons work while the app is connected and you're editing a preset, so that's good. the vol pedal works, and controls the 'volume' effect block in the preset, for which the min and max vol can be edited within the preset. the wah pedal and on/off toe switch also works as expected. the function 1 footswitch turns the compressor on and off. the delay footswitch (and the other FX footswitches) seem to only turn on and off 1 delay or effect block, even when more than one delay effect block are in use. and here's where things get interesting: the reverb footswitch will only turn reverb on and off, even if you move the reverb effect block to a different location (it can be the last in the chain, or just before the amp FX block I should point out that out of the effect blocks, some are of a fixed effect type. so e.g. the reverb FX block can be changed to different reverb types, but only reverb. same for wah. the noise gate, comp, eq and vol are fixed FX, and although their settings can be changed, the fx can't be changed for other comps, EQ FX respectively etc. the stomp, mod and delay FX blocks can be interchanged for any mix of 3 FX from any mod, delay or stomp. those 3 can then be moved in any order to before the amp or at the end of the fx chain (except the reverb would be dead last if it's post amp). those 3 fx blocks (stomp, mod, delay by default, but can be any of those 3) are then controlled by the stomp, mod and delay footswitches but in the order they appear in the fx chain. so say this is your chain: gate > wah > stomp > amp > comp > eq > vol > mod > delay > reverb then on your FBV shortboard MKII, the 3 FX switches will control the FX they are labelled with (stomp controls stomp on/off, same for mod for mod, and delay for delay). and reverb will control reverb (remember reverb is always reverb and comp is always controlled by func 1) if this is your chain: gate > wah > delay > reverb > amp > comp > eq > vol > stomp > mod then reverb and func will control reverb and comp (they always do), but the other 3, will be as follows: stomp switch controls delay fx mod footswitch will control stomp fx delay footswitch will control the mod fx, as that's the order the pedal and the fx chain match up with the 3 fx blocks that can be controlled to the footswitches from left to right. the FX parameter on the amp can be moved to edit fx parameters from stomp, mod, delay or reverb. just make sure the slider is down low on the fx parameter you want to assign the knob to, and touch and hold on the xx% number for that parameter for a few seconds and your iOS device will ask you if you want to assign the fx parameter to that slider. phew - I hope all that makes sense - Over and out for now Cheers Rowbi.
  49. 0 points
    Just updated my ipad to ios 13.4 and still nothing... No sound, just a flashing red light for 30 sec from the sonic port...
  50. 0 points
    I'm in the same boat... but with the world coming apart at the seams, and a music gear manufacturer hardly considered an "essential service", my guess is there's a skeleton crew at the L6 mothership, if there's anyone there at all. I'm not expecting an answer anytime soon. Then again, with all the bars, restaurants, and catering joints closed until God knows when, it hardly matters... I have no idea when my next gig will be.
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