MartinDorr

Whether you find a solid answer or not … why not just believe the meter telling you it clipped and fix your tone?

It is mentioned in the release notes for 3.50 FW and HX Edit. Not very obvious, but they list Ventura as supported.

I searched this thread and could not find any unresolved Helix family product problems using or upgrading to MAC OS Ventura. Any experiences to the contrary? I realize using Ventura might be a bit early, but I may soon have to upgrade to Ventura for other SW.

Maybe window sunscreen foil and adhesive tape will do the trick. Will likely look messy and not very durable for giving …

If the OP refers with just tuning to tuning intervals that are all ratios of whole numbers I don’t think this is possible w/o external equipment (because the Helix family tuners do not support any tuning type but well tempered). That said I can’t imagine how one could play a standard guitar in just intonation because all the thread positions are also just supporting well tempered tuning. I am probably riding the wrong horse …

Merry Christmas or all the best for whatever you are celebrating this time of the year and special thanks to the Line 6 team and management for their support and further development of the HX product family line.

Well, you are the man. I kind of resorted to having a partially broken Variax JT that does not support editing modeled guitars via the Helix. In fact my call to support did not mention to make sure MIDI over USB is enabled to make it work. Thank you so much. After I turned on MIDI over USB Workbench HD connects after 20 secs or so and everything is working. All the best - you made my day! Martin

Apparently it took me too long to write the following … My preferred approach is to make volume changes at the very end of your modeling chain. While it is crucial to understand that channel volume in you amp model does not change the amp model’s tone, the result of changing channel volume may impact tone because it is essentially a drive knob for models that follow your amp(s). So if you change your volume at the very end of your model chain you get no tone impact in theory. BUT your ears will not play along, as things get louder or quieter your hearing will emphasis or suppress the volume of some frequencies and the apparent mix level of some effects, e.g., reverb. Thus you will need to compensate for example with global EQ or even changes in your patch. I’ve seen comments in the past that several players have tone/patch versions for performance and home practice volume levels. Hope this helps somewhat. The only consolation I can offer is that this is not a modeller-specific issue. Anyone using some gear to play louder and quieter will run into this. As there is no such thing as neutral volume control on real guitar amps or effects, using a modeler at least gives you more controls to address the issues coming along with playing at different volume levels.

I think you might be able to use the Helix Digital outs (S/PDIF or AES/EBU) to connect to a Helix rack digitally and chain them with minimal latency (should be much better than USB). Add MIDI connections and you probably could control the Rack with the Helix floor. All theory though, I don’t own either.

Yes, but that little thing on your guitar is doing this by changing essentially the Drive and for some Amps indirectly the Treble level, which is probably not what you’ld want, especially if your tone relies on a specific amount of hair or break up. You are way better off putting any volume adjustability post Amp or even after the last post amp effect.

Not as fast and probably not as reliable for stage work, but you can also go wireless via BlueTooth with a MIDI tx/rx dongle that plugs into your MIDI ports. Can’t confirm this works on an HX Effects as I have an LT, but I don’t see why not. It’ s even cheaper and it can reliably work in a home environment with iPad based loopers or other MIDI based apps. Obviously this does not support audio like the camera kit would.

Enjoy your LT. For me it is the most worry-free, capable, and enjoyable piece of music gear I ever owned. … but read the manual, all of it at least once! You may not need a lot of what your LT can do, but there will be times when you wonder whether it can or how to best do things and a few of your gray cells will report there was something possibly related in the manual.

I have tried blending things, but with very limited improvements. The extra complications in the tone structure and plethora of parameter options just did not seem to be worth the trouble. Are you using any IRs with your Variax acoustic models and if yes, which ones worked best for you with the 5 Variax acoustic guitar models? Obviously it would be helpful if you could share a tone sample.

Sorry for confusing your earlier advice. I missed the o in iPod. No idea whether there is a camera kit for an iPod or the one the OP has, and if there is, whether it works just like the one for an iPhone or iPad.

No need for a mixer. Just get the camera kit and connect it’s USB end to your Helix and play your backing tracks or whatever audio you want to route directly to your Helix connected speaker system. You can trim the USB volume in globals. The iPad/iPhone volume controls do not control USB output.

While clearly subjective, there are a few recording and teaching artists claiming that associating detailed mental imagery with songs or improvisations improves the ability of artists to express themselves during performance. Some good mental imagery may help to get the knobs right while fine-‘tuning’ your sound/instrument for the target song.

Very nice indeed. Too bad I don’t use an HX Effects.

No problem - enjoy your holidays and playing music ...

Unless you have not already done so, download HX Edit 3.0. If that does not help and assuming you have a backup, do a Helix reset to factory defaults and restore all your settings from your backup.

Maybe it’s because 3.01 is a FW update only and by itself not dependent on MAC OS or computer processor behavior. Could be that Line 6 just expects a version update of HX Edit when the’ll be happy having passed Big Sur release qualification.

I think this would be a good (and cheap (language independent)) improvement of the manual. I remember looking for the numbering scheme when I stumbled over the first instructions on doing various resets. While it was highly likely Line 6 would be using the ‘western’ practice of left to right and top down, doing different types of resets is not really something you want to do by trial error. Later reset instructions added how to identify the switches and all is good now. That said, the manual I believe, has quite a few references to switch numbers but never describes which number goes with which switch. Maybe I missed it ... Maybe a more productive feedback from an Uber Guru would be advice on how get real improvements into the manual update pipeline. As far as I gathered from past posts, Line 6 is unlikely to pick this feedback up from this Forum.

I do not know the real answer, but I vaguely remember that the USB messaging protocol differentiates between a host and a device side of communication parties. A straight lightning to USB cable connects the device (iPhone/iPod) to a host (PC/MAC). The Camera kit dongle allows the IPhone/iPad to act or look like a host and supports the use of a so-called USB ‘printer cable’ to connect to a device (Helix). Helix has a USB 2.0 Type-B receptacle and needs a USB cable with a USB 2.0 Type-B connector on one end. I am not aware of any lightning cable that ends in a USB 2.0 Type-B connector. Except for the Apple camera kit dongle which converts to a USB Type-A receptacle (host), all lightning /USB cables have a USB 2.0 or 3.0 Type-A or a USB 3.0 Type-C connector to be plugged into a host. I am not confident that I used the right terminology in the above - it’s been a while since I worked on something USB related. Hope it helps anyway.

I can only state that it seems you have not yet checked whether the camera kit cable is the failing piece. In regard to a straight lightning/USB cable option I do not know what you refer to. Those cables are only used to charge the iPhone/iPad or connect them to a Computer. Can you provide a brand, part number or source for such a straight cable directly connecting an iPhone/iPad to a Helix?

It seems like your camera kit is the only thing left to be tested with something other than the Helix or an alternate camera kit need to be tried. Same experience what others reported before - camera kit connection to Helix USB works for me every time w/o any hassle with both iPhone SE and IPad. Controlling USB input volume on the Helix is a bit cumbersome. Make sure you do not have it turned down all the way, but that should have created the same problem when playing some track on your PC or MAC when routing it out to Helix via USB.