bjnette

Hopefully all you got is a failure to save changes. Check that the save function is working perfectly. Some compressed air clears it most of the time. If it occurs again and again, isolate any change you make so you can replicate it. Cheers

Though I am not on a Mac this might not be too much help. Make sure your USB is not via a hub. Go the main USB. On PC you need monkey and this might be all you need. Let Monkey do the install for you. On the older PCs you can uninstall the drivers and HD EDIT then at startup the OS wants to find driver for the HD or device. In case via monkey is a prob.Good luck

That is twice the ADC DAC conversion going on. With s/pdif, the input is just the ADC straight recorded digitally. The s/pdif outs into my Motu 2408mkIII sound better than the line and XLR outs.That is another conversion from digital back to analogue, then to go into another interface back to digital is another step but if no noticable degradation then fair enough. .

Sorry mine is just a slight tonal difference I noticed, OP's is time based but possibly if monitoring both USB and line outs there would be a phase issue as there is a minuscule longer line; ever such a tiny delay. Thus phasing.

I have found a similar shift in tonality from s/pdif out to line outs and XLR outs. It could be the added preamp to go thru but it is not as defined. Squelchier is how it sounds and feels to me. I didnt do anything to resolve it, might be simply a few tweaks just went back to the s/pdif outs. Or rereading, might be some phase shift introduced on your line outs

Mmm, Your Question is really simpler than 4CM. Yes, you can use the HD like an FX processor and go out and back your Amp's send and return. The FX Loop on the HD is really an insert point. There is no way to put anything in that insert loop. A better name for it really! You can have FX before the insert Loop and after, but not between the insert loop. You can still do what you are proposing by sending Amp send to HD FX return and HD main L/mono output to your Amp's FX return. 4CM is just the addition of a cable from the HD FX loop send to your Amps guitar input. The guitar cable goes into the HD guitar input.That is it. Now you can have pedal board FX from the HD before you Amp's preamp by disengaging the Amp block in the HD . You can move the HD FX insert loop anywhere before or after in the empty FX slots. IF it it the first slot you wont get any FX before your Amp's preamp. Just before the Amp block is usually the most suitable to have all options. With the Amp block disengaged the Fx return is coming from your Amp's FX loop send, after your preamp and time based FX can be inserted and used after like it is an external Rack FX.To complete the circuit it goes out the L/Mono out of the HD to your Amp's FX return, then to your Amp's power amp section and from there to your speaker. Have fun. woops, I just re read what I wrote, Just run the cables Guitar to HD input--HD FX send to your Amp's guitar input---Your Amp's FX send the the HD FX return---The HD Lmono output to your amp's FX return. Once you set it up and start using it it will make sense.

The problem with an electric guitar is it is a wide broadband instrument. By that is meant it can swamp the tones of other instruments including vocals. As a general rule rhythm guitar being strummed will require some scooping to let the vocals in. You can compensate the scoop by careful boosting of the lower mids and a bit of high end lift. You will also want to not swamp the bass so attenuate 100hz down with a high pass filter. Drums being more transient will cut thru and it is only really the bass and kick that have to spread their bottom end. The kick might sit above or below the bass depending on the genre and where on the fretboard the bass is playing. With a second guitar there is much more work to attain separation and definition. If you play loud and keep turning up to hear yourself you know that one or more instruments are swamping each other. It is important that during rehearsals your band actually do some pre production work creating a balance that is well defined. There is often a sacrifice of how the tone sounds when mono'd. The goal is that each instrument can be heard loud and at low volumes. As for tips and trick, it is a big ask and you would do well to study up for yourself rather then relying on being spoon fed hard won skills without employing the Engineer. Thankless work is no fun, And I have imparted you plenty to get you started. Plus you have been doing it for years and already have experience to fall back on.

Generally the Global EQ is to adjust your sound to the Room your gig is in. A big space will be more bottom end friendly then a small space and the high might looise it's definition. To use the G EQ for EQing your existing tone as a tool can still be done but as it is global it can also be inconvenient to your tweaking of the actual patches. it effects all your patches of course rhythm and leads or a patch that also doubles as a lead tone. Revealing hard won Engineering skills wont help your patches sound more like an Amp. LOL In fact, ideally, a well recorded guitar wont need much in the mix. It is only when you have several that need to be balanced. You could use it to enhance your overall tones and to cut thru at lower volumes. In the 80's a narrow 6k boost would give a lead a synthy quality. It works well if you attenuate a high shelf. Another use in the Studio is to remove fizz from mike capsules, cab resonances etc. honkiness etc.

From memory and a long while ago I noticed that when you separate the top cover from the knobs the actual plastic navigational parts remain but the knobs I am sure are accessible on the board. You might not have to remove that at all but those screws you see on top are all that hold it. You should be able to repair or replace it easily enough. The HD comes apart easily and there are a few videos to help. The knob in question looks like it is just loose from the board hopefully. If it is broken and a replacement is needed that too should be purchasable.

I think the quickest way is to download a fresh EDIT even an older version, open without ever connecting to HD and you get blank 'new tone' only and factory presets. Save a preset of blank tones. Go to the preset page and select a whole set list of blank new tones from a user setlist drag and drop over each factory preset. Save as a bundle."completely empty" Or with existing EDIT just make one set list blank 'new tone's and select drag and drop on each other set list till all blanks and save as a bungle. But save Setlist bundle as "completely blank" and import as needed. Then connect HD - open EDIT and SAVE what you got.on your HD under file save bundle. Open bundle and load in the completely blank sets lists bundle Send All to the HD Done and one very good reason to use EDIT

Were the latest drivers installed under Win 10? I presume you are trying to get it recognized as an Interface? And that it was working before Win 10? Have you been able to make it work in EDIT.? I might suggest that you check you have the latest of everything in software including Monkey and EDIT and download those and the drivers. Another point will be the Flashware in the HD. If it is older it might need older version of the software then once updated enough the latest then works! GOOD LUCK

It does'nt help anyone to be in mystery. Being fully responsible for your tone and volume is fine except when the mystery makes one look unprofessional. No one wants to look unprofessional! It is nearly always operator error for me. When I tweak the volume thru a different set of monitors and then save it, or not! Then implement another change in monitoring and save it of not. Usually not. But the most embarissing is the cables that straddle over the unit and how the knobs are just perfectly designed to take a cable and it effects the amp models so easily, it is annoying. Turning off the touch knob function during live use is mandatory.

Let us look at this in a new light! What does a real Amp sound like? I think the interaction of not just your ears but your body in relation to the Amp that is in the room has been well explained here; and that what the HDs are, are a mic'd Amp cabinet less a room like one would hear in a soundproof from the live room, control room of a Studio. So you got two directions; You can go into an Amp like with 4CM and get that interaction you would have in the room with your Amp. The other way; to examine what is lacking to a mic'd version of the sound using a model. For eg. some put a delay FX in the Amp block at about 20ms to recreate a room sound. What else? Well what about which Amp? There are 30 plus Amps in the HDs which one? IF it has been a while, go and play the real Amps you most want to emulate! You will no doubt feel the HD is even further from the real thing but really you should play the Amp in a live room and monitor it mic'd in the control room for a proper comparison. There is more; \What about feel? If you play a real valve amp you will notice that they are quite difficult to get used to after using a solid state or amp with solid state distortion included, modeled amps included. They are very dry and very clean it hurts and requires a touch and methods to get it to sound well. Adding pedals is a fav to soften the attack and ease of playing required. When I tweak the basic modeled amp I am going for the feel as much as the sound or more so. And I tell you you can get the cleaner amp models with care tweaking the DEP etc to feel harder to play. Then when you add a distortion FX it smooths out like it should. It is not antipathetic to what sounds good but it is to how it feels. When you tweak often it includes ease of playing or response but that could be why after all your work you are dissatisfied with your amp result. My advice is make the amp alone as hard as possible to play with the tonality you have chosen. If I was to generalize it would be lowering most of the Amp DEPs a bit and adding a little to the cabinet except for low end roll off for proper recording balance to lessen the bloominess. I find a slight increase in cab res helps smooth it out and give more of the cabinet IR. Each their own and the responses are subtle. It is more about the feel then the sound when in DEP,remember that!

Actually the peak volume is not louder on a TV commercial then the normal program material. But I will agree there is a perceived loudness though the broadcasting community will argue with you that a commercial and the program material are the same volume; you and I know the heavy compression and limiting raises the RMS volume considerably in a commercial. To the OP, it is possible that the sound engineer plugged you in differently though at the time he didn't notice it. Recheck if there was any other change beside having to increase the volume and how did he do that? This will reveal a direction you can trace back. One way to make a real mystery out of it is to go about adjusting input and output global menus to try to recreate it; Very unscientiffically no answer will be apparent. Do check and only toggle one change at a time. But really realize that it was most likely your doing! You changed something just prior! All you got to do is undo that change! What did you change? Good Luck

Was it working perfectly before you did the update? Were you able to have the EDIT software interact with your HD prior to the update? You might have to open a support ticket if no change and remains hung mid download. But if we are talking more than a day then probably best to do a Factory reset on the device. Then ensure your USB and internet connection are working by using the EDIT software for the reset version. Also make sure you are using a main USB slot on your PC and not a USB hub. You might have to suspend your compters antivirus just while the download happens. Good luck

LOL

Clever!

There is no doubt the HX is better sounding then the HDs. Ask any HX user if they would go back to a HD. When it comes to your Art there should be no compromise with the tools you use to create it. For me there is a business decision of beans for beans. I am not gigging much at all. If I decided to gig then it would be worth it. (I live in Sydney and the HX is $2500) Meanwhile, the HDs are adequate.

If you add the cost of the Torpedo and the HD500X together, how much more do you need to buy a Helix.

Make sure your USB cable is a good one that works. It could of been latest Edit not working with older Firmware. Make sure you are using the main USB port from computer. Do not use a USB hub. Make sure your internet connection is good.Download onto the computer latest drivers and Edit software and Monkey. Update to the latest firmware thru Monkey until it is complete, It can take a while, Let us know how you go with it.

I take it you are using the HD's USB interface to record. You should be able to togle stereo or default mono track in Cubase. If not, you can select two mono tracks one HD L the other R. On the mixer the hard left and hard right give you the stereo widest width and will give one amp out of each channel when using dual amps. The more you make the mixer less than hard L or R the more mono the summing will be.

Troll here didn't read the problem resolved and as usual it is the O/S in the PC and getting Win 10 running great for Audio. But rather pretends he is the OP and makes his blaming conclusion and Damnation intended as a smear campaign. Win 10 is relatively new and it takes time for manufacturers to catch up with drivers. This includes all the parts of a PC. Line 6 is not at fault and it is only an apparency, I run Win 10 on an old i7 and have had no probs from the get go.

It seems to be normal for the pre models but the full amp model will breakup when volume and gain on full.

Let me tighten that rope you are at the end of. LOL First up is, what do you monitor thru? Cans or studio monitors, FFFR speaker or amp? Realize that the amp tones you can get are an amp in a room sound and use them 4CM with your HD PRO X so you are experiencing the same sound level experience. Is the room big or small treated or not? Next is it possible you have made adjustments to the global EQ or other that are active? Check the global menu pages. Revert impedance back to auto for now etc. A global reset perhaps after a backup. Then follow the advice of getting an amp tone or two you like and save them, then add FXs and only add EQ generally to remove unwanted frequencies with very narrow cuts. Compensate with a broad band boost if needed. Bypass the EQ often to ensure it is all an improvement but do try to get the tone you are after using Amp model alone. I read a review of the HDs once that if you cant get the sound you want from it might be better to take up the trumpet! LOL Good Luck

To me apart from the volume differences the HD sounds better but what perhaps makes Bias sound good to you is the washed FX. Amplitude 4 Free I dug out has a similar affect. The wetness sounds a little more lush in some of the FX than the HD when over done it still slightly playable like Your examples. I forgot how good the tuner is compared to the HD's. But if you print the Amp and cab tone to track. Then compare to the HD amp only. The HD is still better. If you use the HD as the guitar input device then you are also feeding Bias with a better impedience than straight thru your audio interface and that will help make Bias sound it's best. Where things might improve are the internal oversampling of the software used on a state of the art computer. Another reason to hang for the Native version of Helix.