brue58ski

I just saw a thread raving about the Archetype lead amp based on the PRS Archon for heavy stuff. Have you tried that amp yet?

That I could not tell you. I have a JC 120 amp that I used for clean and then I got my distortion from an MXR Distortion +. It worked very well so I suspect the pedal provides the distortion. The JC120 didn't distort very well.

I found this that looked interesting Someone asked me about this. Here's how I use the DS-1. 1) First off, think of the Boss DS-1 as a guitar signal enhancer...not as an overdrive pedal that gets stomped into action when you want some distortion. Leave the DS-1 "ON" all the time. 2) If you're using a distortion pedal, like a Big Muff, plug the Big Muff into the DS-1...you'll be surprised at how much smoother and less like a ZIPPER the DS-1 will make your Fuzz or Distortion pedal sound. 3) Start by setting the controls on the DS-1 to about 1/2 way and then adjust the volume and tone controls on your amp until you get a great soloing tone...tweak the controls on the DS-1 too, but keep them around the 1/2 way point. 4) Turn your guitar's volume control down to about 5 and then adjust the DS-1 and your amp's volume and tone until you get a great tone for rock n roll rythym. 5) Now just tweak the amp and the DS-1 until you fine tune a tone that allows you to leave the DS-1 ON all of the time and go from cleanish rock tone to an overdriven rock tone by simply raising or lowering the volume control on your guitar itself. Just find some settings that work well together. That's about it. I can plug my '54 Tele into my DS-1 and that into my vintage Fender amps, and once I get the amp and DS-1 adjusted properly, I can get a great Jimmy Page Led Zepplin I tone without ever having to turn the pedal off. Joe Satriani and Steve Vai both use DS-1's on alot of their recordings. When I saw Joe and Steve with G3 years ago, they rarely appeared to turn the DS-1 off...it seemed to be left on most/all of the time. I got ir from here https://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?21223-Lew-s-Guide-How-to-use-a-Boss-DS-1 This has tons of technical data. https://www.electrosmash.com/boss-ds1-analysis

As I recall, with current technology, this would add $500-$1,000 to the cost of the Helix. No thanks. (But it would be cool)

Many people here use a DAW to set levels. I have a Mackie mixer I use for this. One issue with doing it this way is that even many VU meters have a frequency response curve and will be more sensitive to different frequencies. So if it's more responsive to say 1Khz, If your patch has more of it's sound in the 1Khz range than another, one patch will appear louder than the other on the meter even though they may actually, overall, be equal. So if you use that method you still need to use your ears, but it will get you in the ballpark.

Their bass response is very surprising. I can't say for sure if they would work for you but I think they would. You could just order through Sweetwater or Guitar Center who have 30 day return policies.

Does anyone know when the 105.785565532787 update will be coming? This will have the controversial talent button with the germanium/silicon option. Rumor has it, it will contain both style and speed selections. Even narrowing down the style to specific players. Currently each player will cost $1 to $50. Madonna will be $1...Steve Morse, $50 (Steve will require the speed upgrade). Just to give you an idea of the price range. I can't wait!!! Unfortunately still no tuner upgrade.....Damn!!!!! ;) :D

Just in case you didn't notice, there are germanium/silicon options in many of the distortions.

I had an issue with one string's volume being lower than the others and wanted to replace the piezo to see if that would solve it (it did). I did install it myself so it can be done. I wasn't all that difficult. Just go slow and be VERY careful. Really if I can do it, anyone can. I created a support ticket at the Graphtech website and they were very quick to respond. Here's a copy of their response to me. Thank you for the email and interest in Graph Tech. I would be happy to help with your inquiry 1) Yes, the bridge on your JTV 89F is one of our PN-0080-B0 ghost bridges 2) Yes, the saddles on this bridge are of the PN-0080-B6 variety 3) You can purchase the entire saddle (the price would be pro-rated) or simply the inserts themselves. (I purchased just an insert. It was $15 and $5 shipping) 4) We don't have printed instructions for this process but I can spell them out very easily. If an order interests you, please provide a complete shipping address and I will generate a sales quote for your evaluation. We accept Visa, MasterCard & PayPal I await your response Best regards! Gray Bramwell Product Development & Technical Support Graph Tech Guitar Labs #5-7551 Vantage Way, Delta BC Canada V4G1C9 www.graphtech.com Toll Free: 1-800-388-7011 ext.123 (international only) t: 604.940.5353 ext. 123 f: 604.940.4961

If you are just a bedroom rocker, these are some speakers I use. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/iLoudMicro?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgt6HseK52AIVlbXACh2mYALzEAAYASAAEgKgCvD_BwE They aren't cheap but are relatively cheap compared to the "normal" self powered speaker. You can mount them on mic stands. They are surprisingly loud for their size and they are bluetooth ready so if you're not playing guitar you can play your phone (or whatever) wirelessly. It does use a 4 pin connector between speakers which limits how far you can separate the speakers but you can buy a longer one that has allowed me to separate them as far as I need. It is also very portable. They are basically the size of your average computer speaker.

Assuming you are referring to a Variax AND referring to recording the dry guitar, you don't. You just need to make sure the Variax is the input. And remember, only USB outputs 7 & 8 send a dry signal so you have to make those your source in Reaper. You also need to set the source for USB 7 or 8 for your Reamp source in the Global settings. In the case I'm describing it would be the Variax. See page 54 in the (dare I say it) manual.

There is a program called Reaper that a lot of people use because it's cheap and it works. It has a 60 day trial and is only $60 if you're just using it for your own amusement. Even after the trial, it is still fully functional so you could cheat but $60? C'mon you can afford that. ;) https://www.reaper.fm/index.php Otherwise Logic seems to be mentioned the most here. Cubase as well. I personally have Sonar which I like but I don't recall a lot of people mentioning it on these forums.

I have heard that the new HD reverbs coming will have that option.

Try these "official" Line 6 IR's and compare them to their stock cab counterparts. https://line6.com/allure/ It will give you an idea of what kind of difference IR's can make compared to the stock cabs. I think there's only about 6 and they're free. They are done by Dan Boul of 65 Amps. Here's his website (don't go here to get the Line 6 IR's) http://www.65amps.com/

I personally have observed no change in it's behavior.

Go to this thread and read everything Digital Igloo has posted http://line6.com/support/topic/16170-how-do-i-change-the-exp1-and-exp2-label-to-wah-and-vol/?hl=expression+pedal+labe

I ordered these https://www.amazon.com/GETMusic-Plastic-Bumpers-Footswitch-Protector/dp/B075TXX5LQ/ref=pd_sbs_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075TXX5LQ&pd_rd_r=T9EDSMAKHGP3FWQ838PP&pd_rd_w=Di8C8&pd_rd_wg=6A8Xw&psc=1&refRID=T9EDSMAKHGP3FWQ838PP and the black ones here do let the LED rings show through.

OK, I'm impressed. I wonder what Eddie's doing with his original amp and Variac.ðŸ˜

I think he's looking for a copy all the blocks in a path option. So if his perfect guitar sound is on one path and his mic on the other, he can just copy the Mic path and put it in a patch that already has something in the first path that he wants the exact same mic blocks in the second path. Does that make sense?

Perhaps his tech had quickly used the Helix tuner to tune it up. :D :P ;) :)

Good choice if you can afford it. The HD500X is good but the Helix is much better.

Could you somehow use a noise gate after the looper block, make the attack super slow and make the threshold very high so that when you engaged the noise gate the volume would slowly decrease?

Are you sure that's true? I seem to recall a Line 6 person saying they were similar to an IR but actually worked a different way. I'm probably stating this wrong but I thought it was something like that.

I used this tone knob "trick" when I had a Digitech GSP2101 in the '90's with a kind of twitchy tuner in it. It definitely helped. Got rid of some overtones I guess. I had other tuners you didn't need to do this to help them work but there were some you did, like with the 2101. I discovered the tone knob "trick" on my own in the late '70's when I had an issue with a super accurate strobe tuner I had access to for awhile. It was a Conn and if you know old strobe tuners, you know they were an industry standard for awhile (don't know about now). Did you ever get to use one? Turning down the tone knob helped it to lock in on the note better. And I'm sure it wasn't because it was working improperly. So the tone knob technique has been around since I figured it out on my own back then. I didn't really tell anyone about so what I really want to know is who stole that idea from me???? ;) Whether the Helix tuner is a bit twitchy or just too accurate for it's own good, ya do what ya gotta do to make it work. And I would say the statement "how you're "supposed" to" tune is a bit strong. The Conn tuner worked the way it was supposed to and turning down the tone knob helped mellow it out. How you think you should tune a guitar may be a more accurate statement. I would argue that how you are supposed to do something is often whatever you have to do to make it work. I'm very pragmatic that way. I have to be. Where I work, a lot of the stuff I use is supposed to work a certain way but it doesn't. So, since it ain't gettin' fixed or replaced, I do what I have to to get it to work. I'm supposed to get it to work. Whether it works the way it should work or not. Besides, there are people who say you're supposed to tune a guitar with your ear. That's how you're supposed to do it. And even then there's arguments about how you're supposed to do that. And I'm guessing that the Helix's issue is accuracy and not "twitchiness". But I could be wrong. If that's true then some kind of damping control maybe. Or better yet, call it a damping control but just have it turn the tone down. :ph34r: Either way, I know what I gotta do to make it work better for now. Bottom line I would say......Play in tune. Just do whatever ya gotta do to get there. I don't think the Helix tuner is going to change for awhile.

Go here to choose your colors https://www.amazon.com/GETMusic-Plastic-Bumpers-Footswitch-Protector/dp/B075TXX5LQ/ref=pd_sbs_267_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075TXX5LQ&pd_rd_r=C4CST5TWEVKXTZ9NWNAZ&pd_rd_w=6yfZV&pd_rd_wg=yKoTI&psc=1&refRID=C4CST5TWEVKXTZ9NWNAZ