brue58ski

For me it's the tuner. I think it's....OW, OW,...stop hitting me!!!!! OK, OK. Nevermind. I really like the tuner a lot I guess.

The distance from the pickups to the strings can affect the string/piezo interaction so it is important. I would guess the closer the strings are to the pickup, the more the magnetic field of the pickup can affect the string/piezo interaction. Would be nice to know what Line 6 has determined what the closest it should be is. But I get why they don't tell us.

DOH! Got me. :D

Use the L2M for your own (1/4" outs) monitoring and send a signal to the mixer (XLR outs) directly out of your Helix. You can switch the outs around if you want. You can assign the main volume control to one or both of the outputs. Mine controls only the 1/4" out so I can adjust my own monitor from the Helix without affecting the XLR outputs. Whatever output you do NOT have assigned to the main volume knob will act as if the volume knob is turned all the way up.

I can't count the times it sounded great in my "bedroom" alone but the sound got completely engulfed live with the band, because of this. I think this all boils down to what I've always thought, especially with the sounds like an amp, doesn't sound like an amp, to FRFR or not FRFR, etc., discussions and all of the new technology in the past decade or two. The thought is this; if it sounds good, it is good. Doesn't matter how you got it (razor blades to the speaker cone anyone?). Just matters if it sounds good. Which means the only really important and essential part are peoples ears. But because of this, you do have to be heard. That's where some rules in regard to the physics of sound apply. In the studio, they could sculpt the sound so it fit. With real amps live, not so much. We are now in a position where we have many of the sound sculpting advantages of being in the studio. But you do have to get out of the "amp in a room" mentality and switch to an "amp in a room, mic'd and monitored in a studio control booth" mentality, if you're going to go in this direction. There will always be the "amp is best" school out there. I just think it's a bit close minded. but whatever, they can have it. Going the amp sim direction is not a character flaw even though it is often treated as such. For me, it is a good time to be a guitar player compared to what we had to deal with decades ago.

So............uh..............Is it here yet? Is it here yet? :D (Just funnin')

Time to save some pennies! (Uh oh, I just got the Helix about 6 months ago and told my wife I now have everything I need. Gotta do some fast maneuvering) :D

The impression I got from the OP is that he was looking for the specs for the action/string height above the 12th fret or from whatever fret you measure. Thought the Gibson thing was a good place to start for that. I do see how the string to pickup height would be different (I actually missed that). Please ignore that.

It's expensive but check this out. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Spacestation3

Wow. That sounds very intriguing. The price is a bit off putting at first but if it does what it says it does, I'm very interested.

If the software synth is a standalone; there should be, in something like a preferences section, a way to select what MIDI input it will use. I don't know what the Helix's USB MIDI would be called though. And I'm not sure if the Helix will send MIDI over it's USB. I know it will receive but not so sure about sending. If you can't get it to work, get an M-Audio MIDsport. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/keyboards-midi/m-audio-usb-uno-1x1-midi-interface?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=CjwKEAjwja_JBRD8idHpxaz0t3wSJAB4rXW51KWbn3HDUFc8IOgqAOAbFL6T8cyW1J16ib5GNc9ZWhoCtEPw_wcB&kwid=productads-adid^156717928496-device^c-plaid^137046636762-sku^701379000000000@ADL4MF-adType^PLA

Mine freezes on startup a little bit. Maybe twice in the last 6 months. Turning it on and off fixes it. But it does worry me a little.

Well, not telling them about the candy is not lying. That would be a "suppression of knowledge.. The ONLY comment I responded to ONLY said, " The suppression of knowledge had never yielded positive results, and often results in problems far worse than whatever was wrong in the first place." My comment was to point out that sometimes it does yield positive results. And since you do have kids, I have a hard time believing you haven't "suppressed" some knowledge to them. Just to make things easier. If you have never done that, you should write a book. And just to make sure you know, I was just funnin'. I think you realize that but I'm just making sure. And I still am. I wasn't trying to come up with some earth shattering revelation or anything. Just joshin'. Regarding string height, I don't know that there is, nor that they really need to even have, an official string height let alone tell what it officially is. It's mostly about player style and preference. Jazz and chords, kinda high, speed metal, kinda low. And that's just generic conventional wisdom. I'm guessing there are many people who do the opposite of that and there are oodles of places that will give you their opinion of what the string height should be. But having said all of that, if there is an offical string height, why not give it out? Now for some actual info. Most places on the internet say an average electric guitar string height is 1/16" (.0625") on the high E string side and 3/32" (.09375") on the low E string side. Here's something from Gibson that I thought was informative Hi I'm David the final inspector at Gibson Memphis. I can give you the factory spec info. on our setups. You will need a mechanics rule to do this properly. To check neck relief: fret the low E at the first and 15th fret (not 12th) reach to the 7th fret and tap string. There should be a small space between string and fret - no thicker than a piece of paper. Do the same with the high E. ACTION: fret low E at first fret and measure the distance from the bottom of the to the top of the 15th fret. It should be 5/64". Do the same with the high E, measurement should be 3/64". Now measure the string height at the nut; underside of the string to the top of the fret. Low E and A should measure 2/64", D and G =1.5/64" and B and high E = 1/64". If string height at nut is correct, recheck string height at 12th fret with strings open. Measurement for low and high E's should be the same as measurement taken at the 15th. Pickups: Fret low E at 22nd fret and measure pickup height from underside of string to point on pickup closest to string. Bridge pickup should be 3/64", neck pickup should be 4/32". Fret high E at 22nd fret, distance for both pickups should be 3/32". Play test: Play every string at every fret checking for buzzes. Bend High E string 1 and 1/2 steps, beginning at the sixth fret and ending at 22nd, checking for "choking" and to make sure string stays in nut notch. I like this website as well. http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/action.htm

My 1st string has a very low level on my JTV89F. Does anyone know. Can the same brand/type of piezo elements have varying outputs? Wondering if I should try to replace the 1st string piezo.

Whoooops. Wrong forum. Pay no attention to this.

You don't have any kids, do you. It's easier to suppress the knowledge that there is candy in the cupboard than the verbal siege that results from a two year old knowing it's there. That's a statement that sounds right but the word never is a bit strong.

Double check all of your inputs and outputs. I would start by turning all of the effects off. Then see if you hear anything. If not, adjust your inputs and or outputs. Don't forget to check what the split signal's (if there are any) inputs and outputs are set at. Once you hear something then, turn on each effect until the sound disappears. Check out the setting of whatever effect cuts the sound out.

He's right though. With the HD500, when you adjusted the min or max, you heard it. Not so with the Helix.

The problem with using a meter is many meters respond differently to different frequencies. 0dB at 1000Hz may not be 0dB at 4000Hz. Having said that, this is what I do. I have a tone generator that will put out a mic level 1000hZ sine wave. It's a shure mixer so I'm assuming their mic level tone is fairly accurate. I make sure the level coming out is at 0dB. I then put that mixer's output into my main mixer and 0 the meter in the mixer with the master and channel sliders at 0. I use the trim on the mixer inputs to set the 0dB level. So from there I try to keep the level between 0dB and 4dB while playing/strumming an open D chord keeping the Helix Main volume knob at the same level and using the amps Channel level to make all of the adjustments. Mostly. That's what I do.

Because it doesn't weigh as much.

I'm guessing the correct term would be can close them. I'm a former smoker and I don't recall ever noticing my eustachian tubes closing when I fired up.

Well I know it is colored by the mic and mic placement among other things, but I'm working on an idea. Or more accurately working on working on an idea.

There is a suggestion on the ideascale to have an option for selecting all of a block's parameters with one or two clicks. Vote for it if you think it's a good idea.

Does anyone know if it is possible to render a frequency response chart with or from an IR?

If the USB/VDI gizmo is showing red lights, it's not communicating with the computer. Send it back.