pianoguyy

Courtesy of Ed Saxman https://line6.com/support/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=1677

Well, ok. It's one thing not to know how to "install" the model packs. But asking how to get your patches onto your machine is a completely different story, Read the various owner's manual(s). There's 4 or 5 of them.

In a way, you are correct, these units are more suited for studio work. Simply because it does everything under the sun. People only use a fraction live of what they use in the studio. You don't even need stereo live. Studio work needs to be pristine. and it can be "adventurous". I mean, think about Jimi Hendrix - those fantastic studio albums with all of those weird sounds. He never did any of that live. The Doors. The Beatles. Far different live than on the album. I think Pink Floyd is pretty much the only band that does live the same things they do in the studio. But the units are also great for live work. WHY? Because they make your sound consistent. No stage amp that is giving a slightly different EQ today than it did yesterday. No stage amp interfering with FOH more today than it did yesterday. No feedback. No microphone that is at a slightly different angle than it was yesterday. No "bleed" from when the guitar mic is picking up the drums. My total time for load in, set up, sound check, tear down, and load out is just a few minutes. You don't have to use everything live for it to be a live unit. Most people don't even use 100% of the unit in the studio or at home goofing around. Just imagine being able to 100% replicate the same tones night after night, venue after venue. It is a live unit --- even if you are only using one patch all night.

Budget is always the important thing. And it plays into the rest of your gear, too. I mean, sure, the $7000 speakers (each) are nice but they aren't going to make it sound any better if you are recording on a home computer. And that $100,000 microphone sounds as bad as the $20 Radio Shack mic if you skimp on the cables.

That's because it doesn't work that way. Nor should it.

But what else do you need more than the Pod? And I mean that. I replaced my entire rig with my Pod.

First, I don't know why you have a wife. But, more importantly... Don't fall for that trap. If she says it is ok to buy one - question the motives.

For live performances, it boils down to if you want a floor unit or a rack unit. Some people want the floor unit, but opt for the rack unit with foot controller because it is cheaper to replace a foot controller when a drunk pukes on it. While others have spent 35 years on stage and never had that happen. But for studio work, more people probably would lean towards the the rack unit because of the different jacks available. They really are the same units. With the exception of the physical differences - inputs/outputs, rack/floor. I started with the one floor unit, but have since bought more floor and rack units due to my work routine.

First, you have to understand what a modeler is... it is the final product. It is not your guitar amp. It will never sound like your old guitar amp because... When you are in the studio or on a stage, the sound that you hear in the audience or on the cd is not what the musician heard. Your sound was mic'd and ran through another system. THAT is the sound you are going to hear with modelers. Modelers provide that extra sound layer to provide the "final" tone. By providing the "final" tone, it allows you to bypass the middle step - lugging an amp around, and then needing to mic it for stage or studio. But then, if we are skipping the amp, how do we hear it? And if we use an amp to hear it, doesn't that just add tonal color to the sound? The Tech21 gear is made to be a "transparent" device that will provide "true tone". It is not something like a Marshall or Fender that each have their own tonal identities. Again, it is not something that is going to sound like the sound we grew up hearing in our bedrooms. It is not meant to be. It is meant to allow you to get out of it what you put into it, without any coloring. So,,, Now that we know those two things... The first thing you need to do is make sure you have the (global) settings on the modeler. If you have them wrong, you will never get anything good out of it.

Buy the L6 gear and get rid of everything else. Don't get me wrong, you can run the unit with other units. But where the unit shines is in its ability to replace everything - yes, everything. Buy the HD Pro X (if you want a rack unit) and foot controller, or buy the HD 500X (if you want a floor unit), and then plug direct to the PA. Maybe even bump it up to the new stuff, the Helix.

Modeler, not profiler. Completely different.

ok, if you have experience with other pedals, then a good place to start is to hook the unit up the exact same way you hooked up your other gear. That is also how you design patches, too. If you are replacing a flanger, add a flanger. If you never used one before, why try it now - do it later, after you are more familiar with the unit and its possibilities.

is it just the units, or were there extras that were purchased (such as downloadable amp models)?

I see two issues semi related to the "how to connect" question... 1. the EDIT software can make it so that you don't have to bend over to adjust tone, but you shouldn't really use it beyond editing. this means you still need to plug/unplug the unit. 2. you can get rid of the amp and save your back from needing to carry it. <-- more on this later

I know that. You know that. But does he know that? **sometimes people delete their posts, and that makes it look like some posts make no sense.

Well... Actually... The easiest way to hook it up would be from the pod output to the amp input, the same as you would any other effect or if the guitar was going straight to the amp. Hey, I plugged everything in a straight line for decades. In fact, I did it up until I got a pod and ditched all the other gear (including the amps). I think a good place to start would be for us to ask... What are you intentions? What was the purpose of buying the unit? What do you hope to get out of it?

It is a pain in the tuchus to get to since the forum was rebuilt a few weeks ago. Unless you know an easier way? I can only access it from the first page (support/forums). Once I am in POD HD (support/forums/multi effect units), I can't click anywhere to go be able to get there - with the exception of going back to the first page.

But it is most likely an eq issue. And most long term users and forum readers know this because it has been discussed at length. I believe that Australian shop owner even did a video about it.

7 string - wider necks or smaller string spacing. Hand positioning, including the wrap-around. Other hand positioning. Depending on what model you get, you could also be looking at a longer scale length or fanned frets. Alternate tunings - finger positioning. I don't know you or your situation. So, don't get me wrong, I am not trying to discourage you from trying something new. But most people run into situations not being fully informed.

You do not want a guitar with a tremolo if you are planning alternate tunings - with an emphasis on the "S" in tunings, meaning multiple. To do it properly requires way too much work getting the springs and truss to even out. But, again, the same applies to what I said earlier --- you don't want to mess up your technique. So, unless you are serious about playing 7 strings or alternate tunings, don't. Since this is the L6 fansite, have you given any thought to buying a Variax? They can give you all sorts of tunings and pickup configurations, all with the push of a button.

I will try again tomorrow. But as of right now I cannot hear anything. Your volume just isn't loud enough. I will say, however, I notice some asterisks on your patches. What happens when you save them - same "bug"?

There is no reason to have a 7 string guitar... unless you intend on playing a 7 string guitar. I will never play "chugga chugga" metal. Nor will I ever play classical music (real classical, not classical written for guitar). Therefore, do I need a 7, 8, or 9 string? Of course not. Nor do you want to throw off your technique. As to the buying guitar part.... I currently have an unknown number of guitars. I mean, my accountant does have a list, complete with purchase date and price. But without checking the list, I have no idea. And now that I am running to the same locations all the time instead of touring all over, I actually have x-amount stashed in certain spots instead of having them all in one or two locations and taking them with me as I travel. Now I just fly to "point X", and I have a house, car, clothes, and gear already there waiting for me. Guitars are like women. The more, the merrier. You can never have too many at one time and there is no crime in having one for a little bit and then getting rid of it.

The reason we use (as example) a Marshall is because we want our sound to have the personality of a Marshall. If we want to have a Fender personality, we use a Fender. Those tonal characteristics is why we choose the gear combinations we do. If you then take that Marshall personality (from a modeler) and you run it through a Fender, not only won't it sound like a Marshall, it won't sound like a Fender either. There are some other issues to deal with, but "tone" is a big one. You want, for modelers, as well as for studio work, crystal clear speakers. You want to purest sound known to man. They make things called FRFR, which stands for full range and flat response. Most studio speakers are FRFR. Many good acoustic guitar amps, most good keyboard amps, and any decent pa system - they are all FRFR.

Oh. So, you aren't talking about HD500 patches (also called presets and tones).

I may be thinking of another product, but I vaguely recall that they are not divided into equal spaces - it get more precise as you get closer.