j_hotch

One vote for "on." I have a frankenstrat with the EMG DG-20 set. I leave it on to give me headroom for using the eq boost, if the mood strikes.

Ok, then you would place the split after your amp and direct each branch to a cab model: If you want to build everything on the same path, you can: Select one of your two cab blocks, press ACTION, and use the joystick to move it down.This creates Split and Merge blocks. If necessary, move your Cab, Split, and Merge blocks accordingly. The Split should be to the left of the first Cab and the Merge should be to the right of both Cabs. Select the Merge block and set its A Pan parameter to Left 100 and its B Pan parameter to Right 100. Good luck!

Another troubleshooting suggestion: try a different output, or testing with headphones, to see if the issue still occurs.

I like this one, personally. Less is more, IMHO.

Make sure your output block is set to Multi and you should get the same signal out of 1/4 in and XLR outputs. Send one to your amp and the other to your desk. Voila!

I usually leave my volume at 8/10, to have a bit in the tank if needed.

I also use EMGs, and note that their hot output can often be an issue. Do you have input padding on? Try lowering the guitar volume and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, I would focus on low-cut filters or more focused EQ cuts. Good luck!

With the Helix, you enter the world of software. To wit, some common software engineering axioms might be worth keeping in mind when considering upgrades, their frequency, etc. FAST. GOOD. CHEAP. Choose any two. - Common Project Scheduling Mantra Adding manpower to a late software project makes it later: 9 women CANNOT make a baby in ONE MONTH. - Fred Brooks

Is there anything else in the signal chain that might be making a difference? Perhaps you could attach the patch and let others check it out?

The best answer is: whatever sounds good to you! That said, I like to add the tube pre at the end of the chain, but before reverb, to give me a chance to normalize volume, add some warmpth, etc. Good luck!

Sorry: when I said preamp-in I meant effects-loop-return. Tomato / tomahto.

Usually, plugging directly into the preamp-in will bypass the amp's tone stack. So you may have been hearing just the power amp and the speaker at work, there. I used to run a HD500x this way, into a Hiwatt combo amp. I also left the amp Sims on, to good effect. Good luck!

You can press both rightmost switches simulatneously to toggle between signal flow and whatever performance mode you have chosen.

Could you attach both your working and not-working patches to this message? That would make troubleshooting much easier.

Just clarifying: you want to bypass the preamp on amp 2, going directly to the FX return?

Download the manual, also: https://line6.com/support/manuals/helix/

My personal technique: Starting with no effects at all, I focus on keeping everything at unity gain as I build the patch, making sure that the blocks I'm adding don't increase the overall output too much. Ideally, I'll use only the amp's channel volume setting to control the output volume of the whole amp/cabinet section, again making sure that the overall volume doesn't change too much from its initial level. If I still need a boost, i may add a gain block right before the output to bring things up. I also output everything at line-level, so I'm usually cutting input gain at the mixer/DAW input, rather than boosting it. I shoot for a consistent -6db peaks and around -10db average for my recording levels, to give me room for compressing and boosting during final mix.

Seems straightforward: set min pitch value to zero and the max to -4. Map the pitch parameter to your expression pedal. What trouble are you having?

The snapshot will store the position of the pedal when it's saved, so if you want it to be at 0 when activated, make sure to have it at 0 when you save the snapshot. As for not reaching to full travel, you may have to tweak the pedal itself and make sure the pot is turning as far as it should, etc. Good luck!

Look for a "headroom" parameter, and increase it to reduce the simulated noise.

Ha! It's got nothing on my vintage, wind-up RAF watch. They just can't emulate that "tick", you know?

Your mileage may vary, but I went from an all tube Hiwatt combo with pedals to a Helix LT with a full range powered monitor and have no regrets. More options, more reliability in a smaller package.

You may want to mark this post as "resolved", thanks!

I think you need to change your input device in your sound settings, from the Helix to something else.