HonestOpinion

I can get it to work with the just the double-tap on the 1Switch looper but I have to get the timing just right. It's like having the double-click interval on your mouse set too fast so it often fails to double-click. Its timing should almost be a settable parameter. Of course if they do that then people, particularly those who set a slow/long double-tap interval will complain that the end of their loop isn't restarting in the right place at the right time(modified Dr. John). Maybe a double tap is not the best way to do the stop command but not sure how else you would do it if you truly want to keep all the functions on one switch. In other words, for a one switch approach, without quantizing the loop's end-point, or perhaps some very clever switch logic, if you grant the user more latitude on the double click it will also impact where the stop is detected and potentially make for a loop end-point that is slightly off.

I totally understand. It's disconcerting getting something back from repair, or even buying used, and noticing something (other than the repaired item) doesn't seem to be working as before. Especially since most people subject their device to a slightly higher level of scrutiny when they get it used or after a repair. Been there. Pressuring an update is unlikely to happen but you can enter an idea in Ideascale for the device to operate the way it ostensibly used to. You can also open a ticket to further bring the issue to Line6's attention in the event that it is just the side-effect of a bug.In which case hopefully it will get squashed in the next update. Again it may be as designed, even if it was different before. I guess time will tell. Frustrating in the meantime though I understand if it is disrupting a workflow you had grown accustomed to.

For placement of a volume block connected to an expression pedal I like having it after all my other blocks but right before my delay and reverb which tend to be at the end of my signal chain. That way when I ratchet down the volume pedal it does not unnaturally stop the repeats from the delay/reverb and allows them to finish normally without cutting them off. This method though can alter the input level going into the reverb/delay blocks which may cause them to respond differently. I have not found that to be an issue but if you do it would be a reason to put the volume block at the end of the signal chain. Don't have an HX Effects, so this may not be relevant, but there is also the option of using the output block for volume changes on the Helix if you prefer it at the very end of the chain. Could save you a block.

I am not seeing this. The looper always behaves the same way for me as I described above. Do you have the looper in the same position, same path, in every preset you are switching to? Not saying that there couldn't be a bug that causes it to glitch now and then for some people but I think the behavior is consistent when not glitching. It does not glitch out on me although I don't use it extensively.

To me this video just sums up a couple of well known premises. The first as any Madison Ave. advertising exec can tell you is that "sex sells". The second is that with the advent of MTV and music videos and then the internet, the music biz was converted from a partially visual medium to a substantially visual medium. Even back in the day though the better or more outrageous looking your band was, the more energetic or controversial your show, the better your chance of making it. The difference was a good song on the radio would still sell albums even if fans were disappointed when they saw the band live. That still somewhat applies although not as much. As he pointed out, most people are now getting their music delivered on a television, or now that MTV is essentially a 24/7 reality show, their computer monitor, Youtube, and the internet rather than hearing it on the radio or going to a club where the firsthand sheer energy and charisma of the band might overcome any visual shortcomings. As he points out, without sex/visual appeal your band or you may need to get a bit more creative. Not profound or maybe even fair and not always true but fairly common. Occasionally sheer overwhelming talent does still win out, particularly if well and competently promoted. To some extent this appears to be a well intended effort to encourage talented artists who are not getting their due to consider their presentation. Regarding the somewhat bombastic style of his video, he is simply employing a shall we say "dynamic" presentation to get more views, in some respects proving his own point and exploiting as you say the internet's tendency to gravitate to more extreme modes of expression although I find this video relatively mild compared to some of what is out there.

I agree, their response is general and did not directly address your question. I would not take it as implying anything. Additional confirmations are always welcome but there's a high probability that others will see the same looper behavior that rd2rk, you, and I have observed in 2.82. I do not think this is a problem with your machine.

From this description it sounds like you have it standing vertically on the floor without a speaker stand. Depending on your listening position this could result in the highs just projecting into your legs. Maybe a stand is ideal but I use my 108 primarily for practicing or small friendly jams not performing. At home on a carpeted floor in the kicked back position so it faces my head it sounds great without excessive bass coupling or boominess. Try moving it around or throwing an old welcome mat under it. Maybe a different room. No reason it shouldn't sound at least decent if not ideal without pole mounting. You can always do that if you decide to gig with it.

Cool idea, customizable assignments for the parameter knobs. You should post it in Ideascale.

You didn't say what device you are connecting to the 108. Easiest thing to do if every preset is bassy is to use the global EQ if you got one. Also, modify the factory presets to your own specs or better yet create your own. You may find that putting in an EQ block cutting the lows at about 70-120hz in each preset is better than cranking down the bass on the amp models. Note: Looks like rd2rk is the fastest poster in the West. Sorry for the redundancy, posted about two seconds after.

I posted some tips in a topic around about this a good while back. If I find it I will post the link. There are some settings that help it work better. I don't ever use the synth but I remember when I first started playing around with it one thing that surprised me was that it seemed to track a lot better when placed after my cab block than at the beginning of the signal chain, YMMV. Generally I place things, e.g. an envelope filter, that need to track tightly with the guitar in my first couple of blocks but did not find that to be the case with the synth. Overall, it could be a lot easier to use and I would love to see one added with some dirt simple parameter settings like strings, harmonica, flute, percussion, etc.. Oh, and polyphonic too :-)

After a bit more research I think this may be working as designed. That is to say the Helix's Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' does not control the level out via L6 Link to the PowerCab+. Found the following in the Helix manual although it does not mention the PC+ which had not been released when the manual was written nor does it directly mention the 'Digital Out Level' setting but the wording implies that these settings don't affect the L6 link.: From the Helix Rev.D manual pg. 22: L6 LINK Output Alternatively, the digital XLR connector can be used for L6 LINK output (use of a 110Ω XLR cable is recommended). L6 LINK provides easy digital audio connectivity between Helix and Line 6 StageSource speakers and/or DT-Seriesamplifiers. Two StageSource speakers or DT amps can also be connected in series via L6 LINK and your stereo Helix signalis intelligently split,with the left channel going to the firstStageSource/DT and the right channel to the second. If you have one StageSource/DT connected, the Helix output is collapsed to mono and fed to the StageSource/DT. Connecting an L6 LINK device to Helix automatically disables S/PDIF out and routes audio out the digital XLR connector - no adjustments of the Global Settings > Ins/Outs > Digital Audio or Sample Rate options are necessary.

Think I figured out what is going on. The Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' does not work with L6 Link (neither does the 'Sample Rate') and at least for now this appears to be by design. They imply it in the Helix manual by saying it is not "necessary" without spelling it out explicitly. The manual also doesn't mention the PC+ 'cos that device hadn't been released to the public yet when the Helix manual was written. The Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' setting will probably work with other AES/EBU connected devices. Haven't had a need for AES/EBU myself so haven't tested it, but I can confirm it doesn't work with L6 Link. At least for me and as per the manual. From the Helix Rev.D manual pg. 22: L6 LINK Output Alternatively, the digital XLR connector can be used for L6 LINK output (use of a 110Ω XLR cable is recommended). L6 LINK provides easy digital audio connectivity between Helix and Line 6 StageSource speakers and/or DT-Seriesamplifiers. Two StageSource speakers or DT amps can also be connected in series via L6 LINK and your stereo Helix signalis intelligently split,with the left channel going to the firstStageSource/DT and the right channel to the second. If you have one StageSource/DT connected, the Helix output is collapsed to mono and fed to the StageSource/DT. Connecting an L6 LINK device to Helix automatically disables S/PDIF out and routes audio out the digital XLR connector - no adjustments of the Global Settings > Ins/Outs > Digital Audio or Sample Rate options are necessary.

Thanks for checking this out. I think I see the confusion. I was trying to say that perhaps the Helix's Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' might work properly if you had the AES/EBU connection going out to some other device but does not seem to work when connected via "L6 Link" to the PC+. The L6 Link cable is just a standard AES/EBU cable. I am using an AES/EBU cable. My understanding is that L6 Link is some kind of Line6 proprietary customized variation of the AES/EBU protocol. So the protocols may differ(?) but both use the same type of cable. Are you saying that the Helix's Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' is able to raise and lower the volume on your PC+? It is definitely not working on mine. I'm talking about using the Helix's global setting and not the level that is available from the preset.

The original Boss CS-1 pedal had sustain for days but was also dark, it sucked and squashed tone. Great pedal when you wanted that sound though. I was a fan. As other here have said some of the other HX models are more transparent.

Firmware: PC+ 2.00.1, HX Edit 2.82, Helix firmware 2.82 OS: Windows 10 Bug: It appears that on the Helix the Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' does not control the level out via L6 Link to the PowerCab+. It has no effect on the PC+'s volume. Is everyone else seeing the same thing? Maybe it works with a device connected AES/EBU but not with L6 Link. At least not for me. Is this as designed or is this a bug in the Helix 2.82 firmware?

Now that I have a PC+ and can test it, It appears that on the Helix the Global Settings > Ins/Outs > 'Digital Out Level' does not control the level out via L6 Link to the PowerCab+. It has no effect on the PC+'s volume. Is everyone else seeing the same thing? Maybe it works with AES/EBU but not with L6 Link. At least not for me. Is this as designed or is this a bug in the Helix 2.82 firmware? I'm on PC+ firmware 2.00.1.

Yep, heh, just deleted a comment I made when I realized you had said exactly the same thing already.

It is indeed hard to overstate phil_m's contributions to this forum. That is the most cogent and concise explanation of those settings I have seen.

^^^^^This! Also you say you downloaded HX Edit. Probably already did this but make sure you installed it too. HX Edit has the Windows drivers in the install package which allow your device to be recognized. Just check all the boxes when you install it. If this doesn't work, start trying other USB ports or even a different USB cable.

Apologies if this has already been posted but thought this was an interesting video comparing a miked PC+ to the output from the DI on the back of the PC+ to the output from the Helix. Also has a comparison between a PA speaker(FRFR) and the PC+ and some commentary on feel and sustain. Great video overall but not sure if everything was represented properly on the clips featuring the direct PC+ output and the Helix output. To my ears the miked PC+ sounded consistently superior to the direct output from the back of the PC+ or the Helix. The PC+ and Helix direct out sounded clipped and less musical and full. That is the problem with so many of these videos. You can't be sure you are really hearing apples to apples comparisons between miked and fully digital sounds because there are so many variables to account for when setting up the parameters for a strictly digital output signal - no physical microphone - and then having to effectively record it to video.

I have had that issue with those inexpensive Truetone power supplies before myself. Strangely enough was also when using a wireless unit with it although not a G70. Eventually just opted for another inexpensive Ibanez power supply I had laying around which didn't cause an issue. Those Truetone ISpots are not isolated power obviously when daisy-chained and even when used with only one device can be quite noisy with certain pedals or wireless units. Other times they play nice with everything and are a good inexpensive solution. Luck of the draw.

This has always been my understanding as well.

Did you compare the assignments and parameter setting of the properly working block to the one that is turning on when you power up? Also, would be curious if you set the percentage up to say 10%-15% if it still engages when you power up. In that case it might be something with the auto-calibration. Also, did you make sure you saved the preset with the wah not engaged?

Haven't watched 'em myself but here are a couple of Youtube videos on channel switching a Boogie from the Helix. There are several other Youtube videos for Boogies that may be helpful as well.

Surprised to basically be hearing crickets on this topic. Has it been beaten to death already elsewhere? Not enough folks with Helix and Powercabs using L6 Link yet? Maybe other users have a workflow that makes them not care about this. At the risk of belaboring the subject, just to be clear, even though there is an L6 Link connection from the Helix to the PC+ you cannot switch presets on the Powercab+ at all from the Helix and the PC+'s IRs are shown only by their numbers. I can't be the only one who thinks this is not a good thing? Anyone remember what they have in slot 22 in their PC+'s IR list? 53? 128? Better keep a cheatsheet, onscreen list, or have one hell of a memory On the plus side it sounds amazing. For anyone who has struggled getting their EQ right on the Helix here is an instant fix. Just get a Powercab! They should sell them bundled with the Helix to new users. Great sound within minutes of setup. However, gotta rabble rouse for Line6 getting the Helix interface right. Throw me a bone Line6, hey that one just missed my head. Is a better PC+ interface coming to the Helix?