Brazzy

It wouldn't hurt to lubricate the pivot point with a type lube that isn't too messy for instance a tiny bit of "vaseline".

Trying to fix something that ain't broke is not uncommon, your not alone. I almost forgot that thread, lol. Glad your figuring it out, man.

Read Ya loud and clear on the possible missing link good buddy. This is Rosco Peeeeeeeeeee Coltrain and his good buddy Flash, Over and Out. LOL Oh and BTW have a Great Day!!

Yes as BillBee said take some tension off the pivot bolt to get the action you like. It's made like this deliberatly. You'll need to hold both ends of the bolt as there's a good locking nut holding it together.

What's up Smyrbacki, I don't use the PE60's although I think they're nice cabs. I don't see any tubes but it's all analog. Was just wondering if you PAD your guitar input all the time? Hope you get some good input from other PE users.

Oh, it could be as simple as a bad cable, cable end, or jack.

Are you around something that may be injecting RF into the mix? I had this symptom once, reinstalled the firmware without saving patches and it was fine after that. Don't ask me why 'cause I don't know. Maybe a bad patch corrupted the brain.

I don't use the HD500 Looper very much. I use my computer, open up audacity, make a riff, duplicate it if I need be too then record another riff while monitoring with my amp. For example, I'm using and X3 Pro with my computer, monitoring with a Spider Jam amp and sometimes I use the HD500 in the mix along with the X3 Pro or use the HD500 as a MIDI controller for the X3 Pro. I hear others are using a separate looper for better versatility.

I think if you place the looper before the eq it will affect your loop.

Have you tried just cutting the lows first. I try to play and adjust at the same time, not easy but possible. It nice when you can hear the tone change when your adjusting it. Sometimes I turn the gain up to adjust the freq and then readjust the gain. The "Q" is like a focus adjustment. Check this out about "Q". >>>http://howtoeq.wordpress.com/2010/10/07/q-factor-and-bandwidth-in-eq-what-it-all-means/

So true my friends.

I think the full amp models use more than the pre amp models.

I agree, You have an eloquent way with words and I think many people would love to drown in a huge vat of marshmellow fluff. :blink: LOL.

I've got the DT990 open backed (600 ohm) and love'm. I think I may get an amp for it although they work ok with the HD500 without one. I can wear'em for quite a long time without taking them off. Some headphones make your ears uncomfortable, not these. I think the ones silverhead has are 250 ohm which should pair with the HD500 perfectly.

I do what radatats said but you could do the 4 cable method just like your doing with your current amp. I've never done the 4 cable method.

Wisdom and Windows should be synonymous 'cause after using windows for a while you get wiser, lol. I once helped someone with a windows machine and when I get there and checked out the firewall there was nothing in the firewall window of course there were a slew of other problems too, lol. Long story short I "fixed it" and it's still going 2 years later. This was the result of a windows machine that wasn't getting the important stuff updated on a regular basis. Come to think of it I fixed it more than a few times. After something like that happens most people go right to the apple store, lol. It's very common for me to pratice guitar while I'm fixing a computer software issue so I can learn 2 things at once. :) Pretty much any problem you have with a windows software can be fixed by searching the web and using free software. Eventually you learn about CMD code, software like rkill, malwarebytes, and many others, Hahahaaa.

You certainly do not need high impedance headphones, I use a cheapo set of Coby most of the time, think they were 20 bucks or so. High impedance will work with the HD 500 as I've tested that out. I've learned that a headphone amp pairs nicely with high impedance phones. I've even usesd skull candy in ear plugs which sound pretty darn good.

You must have some sort of ground loop happening. I had a cable that caused this hum once all i did was wiggle and pull it in and out of the jack gently to get the hum to go away. Later I tried a different cable and no problem. There may have been a slight difference with the jacks 'cause I don't think it was the actual cable. This was with my LD300 Bass amp. Maybe you need to check the solder joint in the cable jack. The wire in there may have frayed and is touching something it shoudn't.

Ok, I connect L6 "out" of the pod into the L6 "in" on the back of the head and turn on pod first with Master at 0 so I don't accidentally blast myself. After the Pod starts completely I turn on the Amp and wait a few minutes for the tubes to heat up then I take it off standby and turn the Master to about 9-10 oclock. When using L6 link I control everything with the Pod. You're going to plug your guitar into the Guitar in on the pod. When I use the L6 link I leave both channel knobs (drive to vol) on the amp at zero, I simply don't need them. In fact whenever I start these things up and shut down I turn all the knobs to zero. I only use the master on the Amp and the Pods master will be used to control overall volume. When you set up a patch your going to need to set volumes appropriately so they're even across the board. I don't use channel B when using the pod but I suppose you could figure out how to. Press and hold the veiw button for settings, scroll thru the pages with the Navigation button left and right, that round knob with faint arrows pointing up, down and all around. The little buttons below the screen correspond with the settings accordingly. As for the channel switching you can manually switch channels with the switch on the front of the amp, till you learn about making a dual amp patch. When using the L6 link the pod should default to Stack Power Amp, although you can try Studio Direct or whatever else in there. I use both. It took me a long time to get used to this interface so when I got frustrated I would revert back to just plugging into the front so I could play the guitar with some power, lol. Meaning take a break and come back to it. If I'm frusterated I won't learn anything worthwhile. I always step back and do something else and then come back. Every time I come back It got easier and easier. When shutting down the amp I turn the master to 0 wait 30 seconds, put it standby wait a minute, then power down. This prevents a pop from happening which I think may not be good for the tubes, not sure about this. If anything it lets things drain a bit. What cabinet are you using? are you sure it's connected with a "Speaker Cable"? and is it in the correct output jack? P.S. Make sure you check back to my post as I'm updating it so I don't make tracks all over this thread, lol.

Sometimes you just have to re-flash to fix it. I've been there not for the exact problem though.

Oh Crapppp, guess what........lol Update: I had what looked like ad ware which somehow installed itself into Mozilla and IE (while I was trying to reply to a thread Mozilla just closed while I was typing the reply) so when I'm in the forum here I see ads in some of your posts (not all) and under the "reply to this topic" at the bottom of the page, also at the top of the page under the topic. Mozilla has a reset feature which took care of it but IE still has it so I'll see if the reset feature there will fix it. Added: The culprit was "Dealster", had to uninstall it from programs.....blasted parasites, lol. IE's good now. Don't know where it came from I just figured I'd post it here just in case.

This kind of rig is not your ordinary amplifier. Before I ordered my DT50 I ordered the HD500 and used it for months. This prepared me for the uniting of the two and maaaaan I'm glad I did. It would've been too much to chew at once, at least for me. I would recommend you learn how to update both of them first. Get them updated and learn what's in the updates for both devices. After that your on your way to being able to dive in deeper. Also look into getting another matched set of power tubes and learn how to bias them or set-up the task with someone who knows how. I do a lot of reading (manuals and forums, not just this one) which has helped me become much more fluent with all the controls and configurations. By the time I was getting the hang of it, keep in mind I'm learning how to play guitar at the same time, the tubes failed. I must've put a lot of hours on them and didn't even realize it 'cause I was so into it. TheRealZap has good info there too. The normal xlr cable will work but its recommended to use the AES/EBU 'cause it has better protection from outside RF. I used a 20 foot std xlr for quite some time with success before getting 5 ft AES/EBU xlr. Read on, Be patient, Rock On and Welcome to the forum. Oh and don't stop asking questions when you have one.

I didn't even think about it until the first time the power went out and the after that a light bulb got brighter, lol. So the power is not smooth (Below 120v- Above 120v) in most places and it looks like I need to buy another peice of equipment in order to protect my devices.

Your welcome scott1uk, I hope you enjoy your new amp as I have.

Sorry I didn't clarify that. Reason it's a last resort for me is usually I find that I forgot about some setting or it's something I did when I don't get the results I want. Sometimes the firmware gets weird for whatever reason, such as a power outage/surge while I'm using it or just over time the firmware become unstable and doesn't work right anymore. Example, recently the drums just stopped working and after making sure the levels were correct and they still didn't work I reflashed it and all was normal. One time the Aux input EQ didn't work so again I had to reflash it. Even with the few problems I expereinced with this amp It still works and sounds great.