silverhead

The JTV-59 factory frets are jumbo sized. Like you, I found that pressing hard on the strings caused some detuning. I replaced the frets. Any local guitar tech can do that for you. Not sure about warranty impacts.

There are no Factory IRs. The IR list is empty on new devices. The rest is explained clearly in the IR section of the manual. No point in reproducing the details here. After reading it please come back with any specific questions you might still have.

Yes - because it's the HX FX, designed as an FX only device, intended to be used in a traditional FX pedalboard setup by players who use physical amps and don't want amp models. That's why it exists. To add amp models would deny its raison d'etre.

I would investigate the PC’s Sleep settings. Does it disable the USB port or audio?

The JTV guitars come with a set of hex wrenches in varying sizes. One of them fits the saddle adjustment set screws. Fit the short end of the wrench into the screw head and turn the wrench using the longer end - you shouldn’t have to remove anything.

This sounds like some setting needs to be adjusted in the Scarlett interface. The POD X3 works as expected when it is connected via usb and used as the interface so it’s not an issue with the X3. I’m not familiar with the Scarlett but my instinct says it should be able to send a mix of both the rear panel audio inputs and the usb audio input to the headphones output. Consult the Scarlett documentation or it’s user group for info on how to do that.

Unfortunately…. No. At least not without somehow muting the main outputs for the brief duration (e.g. a Vol block after the Looper?). There may be better hacks - that’s just the first that comes to mind. F’rinstance…. Engaging the Tuner might clear the recorded loop. I’m not at my device to try this.

The symbols correspond to the symbols used to identify the FX Category in Helix devices. For instance, the green circles indicate a Delay FX.

I think the important thing here is to match your HX Stomp output level to the interface’s expected input level. That is achieved by setting the Stomp’s Output Level to Line and using the rear Line level inputs on your interface. I don’t think using TRS a would make any difference. The HX Stomp does not provide a Hi-Z Output Level option so using those inputs on your interface results in a level mismatch. I suggest you avoid this.

The boxed E indicates that the preset has been Edited since it was loaded (last saved). That’s perfectly normal and is simply an indication that its current state is different from its saved state. The change doesn’t have to be much - even moving an expression pedal can cause it. This has nothing to do with the fact that some presets don’t work. Please provide more info about that.

Define your acceptable limits and expectations re: tweaking whilst you are playing. Do you mean you don’t want to take your fingers off the strings at all (you’re playing, after all)? Do you want to somehow do it with your feet? Unfortunately POD Go has no Hands-free Edit Mode. If it’s acceptable to do the tweaking with your fingers, how many seconds of fingers-off-the-strings is tolerable? How would you manage to perform these tweaks on ‘real’ equipment like a physical amp and analog pedals? On the POD Go I think the best way is to interrupt your playing (choose an appropriate moment!) and use your fingers to enter Edit Mode and select the Reverb block rather than the amp block. This avoids the Reverb on/off that you describe. Then tweak away on the now-available parameter knobs - again, with your fingers. The entire process could be done in a few seconds. You could even split it into segments and return to playing in between (stop playing and hit the VIEW button to select Edit mode; return to playing; stop playing and select the Reverb block; return to playing; stop playing and tweak the parameter; repeat for other parameters.) You get the idea….

Look no further. That can’t be done. All 5 knobs control parameters of the currently selected Amp/Cab/FX block. No reassignment is possible.

You're right that any preset requires only one rebuild. If the same preset(s) are being rebuilt every time the device starts up that means the preset(s) are corrupt. Take careful note of the preset numbers that are being repeatedly rebuilt. You can determine the offending preset(s) - setlist and preset - by dividing the displayed number by 128 (#presets in Setlist). Then divide the remainder by 4 (#presets in Bank). No remainder indicates preset D in the given Bank. A remainder between 1 and 3 indicates preset A to C in the next Bank. For instance if the rebuild display shows Preset 384 that indicates Setlist #4, Bank 8, Preset D. (Calculation: 384/12=3 with remainder 32 meaning 32 presets into Setlist 4; then 32/4 =8 with remainder 0 meaning last preset D in Bank 8). Preset #385 would be the next preset; 9A in the same setlist. Delete any problematic preset(s) and restart until no rebuild occurs. Caveat: I believe Helix uses both the 000-127 and 1-128 numbering systems in different contexts. The Display preference of 000-127 is used within Setlists as specified in Global Settings, while I THINK the 1-1024 is used in preset rebuilding.

You need to specify the Record Input Source when recording any track on any DAW. There is usually a default specification that selects USB 1&2 channels. The mechanics of how exactly to change that are different for every DAW. Consult the Studio One documentation for this and select USB Channel 7 (or 8) for the dry guitar signal sent by Helix. Note also that if you are using Windows you need to be using the Line 6 ASIO driver. Set your Studio One audio settings accordingly.

You don’t mention why you need to do this and perhaps you don’t. If you simply want to have Snapshot 2 rather than 1 active when you recall the preset you just need to SAVE the preset with Snapshot 2 active. Also, see pg 15 of the POD Go Edit manual for copying and pasting snapshots.

... and so ... did you successfully swap the amps?

Oh how jaded we bottom dwellers are. Does the Peter Principle also apply to us? Just how incompetent are we, then?

Helix Native is a plugin to a DAW. Your DAW needs to recognize an audio interface, and your HD500x serves that purpose. So yes, your HD500x can feed Helix Naitve. Connecting your Variax to your HD500x as usual means that, yes, your Variax signal reaches your DAW, and hence Helix Native, also. Another way of saying this...Helix Native does not require a Helix hardware device to be used as the audio interface to a DAW. The advantage of having a Helix Device vis-a-vis Helix Native is the discount pricing. With an HD500x nothing prevents you from purchasing (at full price) and using Helix Native. Regarding switching presets, that depends on the midi capabilities of your DAW and your HD500x. Helix Native certainly has the capability of sending midi commands through a capable DAW to a midi-capable audio interface. The Midi sections of the HD500x and Helix Native manuals will provide the necessary details.

Don't know that it will help, but it's not unusual for things to sound different between POD HD and Helix with the exact same settings on the same models. The modeling technology and the DSP engine are different so that will mean tonal differences. What you've done gives a good baseline. Tweaking should be expected. Also, Helix provides improved tonal quality (at least most would say so). Imho you are doing yourself a disservice if your goal with Helix is to reproduce HD500 tones. You should be able to get better results, but there's a learning curve.

Yeah, I'll say it again.... HX Edit does not process audio. I have no idea how much work would be required to make HX Edit receive and process an audio signal. I'm just saying it doesn't currently do it. It's all command and control data that goes in and out over that usb cable. No audio. So not really that obvious to add a tuner, at least not to me.

No automated way to do this. You have to do it manually.

Yes, that’s true.

Not widespread and well known afaik. I would open a support ticket.

Just to help narrow things down…. how does it behave with the battery and 1/4” input instead of the VDI input?