BillBee

I think your first guess is correct, the switch is dodgy. You can try disassembling the unit and cleaning the switch with some DeOxit contact cleaner. That should help resolve the problem for a while. If needs be a Service Center can take a look at it and replace any bad switches.

Its tempting, but the price difference between the LT and Full version is such that I would consider just getting the big boy. The HD handles my needs and I am sitting on 3 of them so I am committed (for now). :)

Excellent! Thanks for the follow-up. Many times we only hear the lollipop end of a story and not the successful resolution.

Like your other post I am not sure what the authorization is for but for the Spider try using a operating system like Win 7 in the downloads tab and see if the program you want shows up.

For the FBV shortboard? I don't think there is anything to Authorize it for.

It could be a cable or jack issue. Check the cable and then (with the GP unplugged) clean the jacks with some contact cleaner like DeOxit. Tough to say if its a software issue but you can always uninstall/reinstall after checking your setting and saving your tones.

I took a look at it and there looks to be a missing file extension. You will need to add the " .l6t " to the end of the extracted file. DL the XT version and you will see it there.

Having re-read the OP the big thing here is you have to learn the EQs. PITA? yes but you really can't get the most out of the HD without using them.

The link is not working btw but anywho... decompress the file with WinRAR if WinZip doesn't work (though it should). Copy the files to the folder Gearbox saves your X3L patches to. Use GB to open them up like you would do for any other patch you DL'd. Unless the file downloaded was corrupt, then try another copy.

Congrats my man. Each toolbox should have a variety of tools and as you found out, even with a modeler each patch can sound different through a different rig. \m/ B \m/

You have one its the HD500. "This Appendix covers the MIDI features available for your POD® HD500 device. POD HD500 will respond to incoming MIDI messages for remote access of its assignable Footswitch & Pedal Controllers, and for loading Banks & Presets. POD HD500 also outputs Bank & Program Change messages when navigating Set Lists and Presets. POD HD500 additionally includes the ability to function as MIDI Controller device, with its footswitches and Expression Pedals capable of sending customized MIDI commands." https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434dc1a55085c5d6532bf/application/pdf/POD%20HD500%20Advanced%20Guide%20v2.10%20(%20Rev%20A%20).pdf Appendix B

HD Edit is where you can assign multiple "assigns" to the footswitches. The video above has the VD Labs switcher receiving the CC from the HD which in turn switches the amp channel. As far as what you want I am sure it is doable (midi loop controller?). Start small and work your way towards it as you learn the HD and its Manuals. Edit: Ole fast fingers Nico!

Thanks Nico, I hope that is what was tripping the OP up. Midi is pretty straight forward once the initial "ah-ha" moment is achieved.

I've been using the Bean for a while now so my recollection of the HD500's midi is fading a bit but: Try using FS mode 5-8 and you can go into HD Edit and assign the CCs under the Controller tab. This might help you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QtbPNhyDsI

No true bypass for the HDs, but the good part is it doesn't need one.

Depending on what you are using it with its fairly intuitive.

Use this as a roadmap and take your time at it: http://backstageblog.fi/in-english/randys-temperamental-pedalboard He liked mids mids mids and treble too. Bass? eh not much. In a band context he ruled his eq zone. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7n7EazI55zY

I wouldn't poo poo the switch assemblies too badly based on a used unit you picked up in a trade. The tactile switches that are used are in many things and are fairly reliable (same ones are used in the old GNX series IIRC). Anywho replacement upper and lower switch assemblies are pretty cheap if that is the problem (and you don't want to solder) and DeOxit can breath some life into them assuming its an actual switch issue. Sometimes it is the ribbon cable itself that goes bad, oxidized connector pins or there may be a cold solder joint. The 500x (IIRC) was released due to parts availability for the 500 getting slim.

I know Nico, but one doesn't use the 75s and expect early breakup either. Still a good YGM tutorial. \m/

The Plexi is one of my faves to really crank. It sounds great through a real amp with T-75s too.

I just had a "moment" I think the OP might be referring to the Park 75 :) This vid is really nice and should help get you in the right direction if that is the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbrFIQ5r2fQ

I thought he also used the G12 30 watters. Those should break up. G12T-75s IMO are supposed to stay on the clean side while getting very loud.

Prog has been taking a beating this year. Holdsworth was one of those greats, RIP my man!!

Pretty much, though going into the Spider might not sound too good. Its tough to send a modeled signal into an amp modeler without a lot of mush. Consider getting a power amp or another head with an FX loop. I would go into the FX loop of the MG to bypass its preamp. There are a few output options on the Pro too so read the manual and play around with them a bit. Just try the MG first and see how you like it. Try Studio Direct and then Power Stack - be careful though as the volume will be full, so keep the master vol on the Pro low and increase it slowly.

The XTPro has L & R mono outs so yes you can go to two amps. I suggest going in the FX loop for the MG, the Spider II has no loop so you night have to pick up a power amp if you still want to use two cabs.