rd2rk

That's about as close as I got, but it's still missing something in the bottom that contributes to the "chug" factor of the original. OP calls it "creamy", I'd call it "thud". So descriptive :-) . @sabretooth24- what do you think?

It could be that you have a household gremlin that doesn't like that song. ;-) OR You could attach the preset so we can have a listen and try to track down the problem...

It's not a bug, it's the way it works now. They might have done a better job of documenting it though.

Yes. Use 4cm for Pre and Post FX and to swap between Catalyst and HX amps. Use Snapshots to access up to 3 Catalyst Amps/Banks per preset and/or control Catalyst FX. Use a two button switch to change channels (A/B) and toggle the boost. A MIDI switcher will allow you to access the full range of Catalyst functions. If you haven't already bought the HXS, the full fat Helix (floor or LT) is the all-in-one solution. There's LOTS of ways to configure things. Read the manual(s) and let your imagination run wild!

Attached is the preset with mods. I have tested this with a MIDI Monitor. If it doesn't work on your DSL you need to find someone locally to help you, as between this thread and the manual you have all the instructions required. @tmingle said: I've set SS1 (CLEAN) to Master 1. The others are set to Master 2. To change this just reset the VALUES of the second Instant Command - 0=Master 1; 1=Master 2. The DSL's FX Loop is enabled in all Snapshots. dsl40controlMod.hlx

That's a setlist. Be sure you're exporting a PRESET file. The file extension should be .HLX.

ATTACH THE PRESET so we can test it.

Easiest way is to use Helix as your AI (ASIO) in your DAW. In Global Settings>Ins/Outs you'll see Re-Amp Src (USB 7) and Re-amp Src (USB 8). IIRC, by default they're set to GUITAR (7) and MIC (8). Set them accordingly. You can now record the unprocessed (DI) signals using those USB channels. If you normally use an external Sound Card (AI), just change it in your DAW's Preferences when you want to record a DI.

I gave it a shot, but I really suck at tone matching, especially metal because while I enjoy playing heavy sounding presets, I'm really not into metal. I get something good sounding and get lost jamming, then an hour later compare it to the base tone and it's not even close. I stopped using GR5 years ago because while it has some fun and unique FX, the amp modeling just doesn't do it for me. I get what I like out of Helix easily. It's interesting though that of the two presets you called out, one is super simple, the other is incredibly complicated, and they both have a certain something that I just can't figure out on Helix. Anyhow, Good Luck, and if you ever do find a match, please come back to one of these threads and post the preset. If somebody figures it out I'd love to see how!

What you need is a "reactive load" attenuator that goes between the JCM's Speaker Out and converts the signal to LINE level for return to the HXS. Not all attenuators allow the amp to be used without a physical speaker load. The Fryette PS2 allows this in "Silent Mode". See page 9 of the Fryette PS2 manual. Power_Station2_Manual.indd (fryette.com) No, I've never used one of these. I bought a pair of Waza Air headphones for silent practice.

I'd say to start with your go-to preset, record a DI track, duplicate the DI track and use Native to re-amp DI tracks until you find the combination that floats your boat. You can always double-triple-quadruple-track once you've found presets that you like, but use the DI tracks and Native to find those sounds vs playing the parts over and over till you hate them.

You need a HOST for that. I THINK it can be set up to work with iPhone/iPad. The connectors you'd need (camera kit) would depend on the model iThingy you have. I'm also pretty sure that you'd need the configuration SW and a compatible computer to run it on to configure the switches for the proper MIDI commands.

Demo preset attached. Note that this is NOT the way I'd do it, as it does not optimize use of either the gear or the DSP, but you asked for minimum cabling so here ya go! The comp and eq are just there as placeholders, they're not essential. For the Helix amp I used the "Mandarin Rocker" simply for comparison purposes. FS3 switches from Helix amp to the Orange on Return R by bypassing one or the other. You'll need to use the cable from the OD pedal (not guitar to OD) when you switch amps. EDIT: set Return R to LINE in Global Settings>Ins/Outs Mikey.hlx

That would require a hardware change so, until there's a v2 of the Catalyst I don't think it'll happen and when/if it does, it'll probably be on the 100/200 models. For now, MIDI is the way to go, but not so easy for you I'm afraid. The Cat60 does not support MIDI except over USB, so you'd need a HOST device (I think there's a way to do it with iPhone/iPad) as well as the MIDI switcher.

When you switch from A to B what you're actually doing is switching PRESETS. "A" unloads from memory and then "B" loads. A radical shift in amp types and/or gain settings will cause a loud noise like a "pop" if there are notes ringing during the switch. This is true throughout the entire Helix family. With the full-fat Helix units you can split the Path and put a Clean amp on one and a Hi-Gain amp on the other. With the split block set to A/B you can use a FS or Snapshot to re-route the signal from A to B and that eliminates the "pop". If doing that sort of tone shift is important to your playing you may want to consider adding something like an HX Stomp or, if you can afford it, a used LT will further add an expression pedal.. Yes, I know, two to four times the price of the amp, but also an exponential increase in the amp's capabilities. Just something to consider. Or you could go "old school" and put a gain pedal of some sort up front... DS-1 and Distortion+ types can be had NEW for <$75 and USED for pennies.

No. A "loadbox" takes it's input signal from an amplifier's "SPEAKER OUT", splits it, attenuates it (or not) and passes that SPEAKER LEVEL signal to a speaker cab The other part of the split is converted to LINE LEVEL, an IR is applied (or not) and that signal can then be sent to a FOH Mixer or Audio Interface for processing in a DAW. If you were to send a SPEAKER LEVEL signal to your Stomp, all of the magic smoke would escape. There could be shrapnel. Before I suggest a solution, let me be sure that I understand what you want to do. You want to be able to have your OD Pedal in front of the Stomp, feeding a Stomp amp/preamp and/or FX, out through an FX Loop which has external pedals in it (Chorus > Reverb > Delay > Looper), returning to the Stomp for final processing before being sent to the Katana FX Loop Return (Power Amp input) via the Stomp's L/Mono Output. You would like to insert the Orange Preamp before the Stomp's amp/preamp(with bypass switch when using the Orange?)/FX/FX Loop, but don't require the OD pedal to feed the Orange. Your guitar would be plugged into EITHER the Stomp or the Orange. You would NOT be using the Katana's preamp or FX. Does that sound right?

What device are you using? Attach a sample preset and I'll test it.

You won't blow anything up, but how you do it depends on how EXACTLY you currently have everything wired and what EXACTLY you want to accomplish. Describe the configuration in detail and define your big-picture goals (not just "get the Orange into the Katana"). For instance: "I want to have everything set up so I don't have to rewire anything to go from using Stomp as 4cm FX processor to pedalboard (Stereo? Mono?) into Stomp amps into Katana power amp to Orange into Stomp into Katana - all just by switching presets!" - IOW - the "All I want is EVERYTHING!" configuration - AKA I shoulda bought the full fat Helix. Maybe list your needs in order of importance?

I'm not finding those presets. In the category Guitar Amps>Hot Solo+ I find "Thrash Solo+". Is that the one? I can't find "Big Monster" anywhere.

I did the same as @datacommando, and fully agree with his conclusions.

Once you have the Global Settings squared away you'll need to select "MIC" as the source on the Input block on one of the Paths. The Output Block can then be set to wherever you want the processed signal to go. For DAW use, you'll want to go to Global Settings>Ins/Outs and set Re-Amp Source (USB 8) to MIC if you want an unprocessed signal into the DAW. EDIT: One of the features of this Forum SW is that, in order to better enable communication(!), the emojis are disabled.

Did you update the FW to 3.15? did you update HX Edit to 3.15? Have you considered the possibility that it might be related to your computer hardware and/or operating system, and that providing those details might be helpful?

Nighty night! Sleep tight! Don't let the digital bed bugs bite!

I had to re-install PT First because I un-install it every time after I use it to help somebody make something work that works without effort in every other DAW that I own. That's Ableton, Cakewalk, Reaper and Studio One (which I hate ALMOST as much as Pro Tools). I HATE Pro Tools SO MUCH that I don't even want it on my computer! OK, now that I've got that off my chest. Sorry if you LOVE it, but... I could NOT get PT First to record Input 5 or 6. It SEES the inputs but won't accept audio from them. I had NO PROBLEM recording those inputs in any of the afore-mentioned DAWs. If you want to open a support ticket with L6, it's possible that it's a known problem with Pro Tools, or maybe just with PT First. Or maybe your ticket will be the first they've heard of it. Good Luck! In the meantime, if getting something done is important, load up one of the FREE DAWs that I mentioned in which re-amping with USB 5/6 (and most everything else that SHOULD be possible in PT First) works without a hitch. You can always export the DI track to PT First if you MUST use THAT DAW. BIG BONUS! ALL of those other FREE DAWS will allow you to use your 3rd Party plugins! Again, Good Luck!

This^. I THINK I know what's going on, I just hope he gets back before I forget what I think!