rd2rk

Exactly what they are NOT doing. They're supposed to react to 127 by turning ON, and 0 by turning OFF. That's what that second column 0-127 means. What they're doing is toggling the ON/OFF status of the FS REGARDLESS of the Value sent with the CC. WRONG!

Someone on TGP discovered, and I've confirmed, that when using FS toggling from an external controller, ON/OFF Values (127/0) are ignored, the toggle occurs regardless of the Value sent. Just so you don't go crazy trying to figure out what's wrong with your controller! Video made, ticket opened.

I'm assuming that you are still on v3.11. I'm NOT assuming that you followed the update directions COMPLETELY. Don't take it personally, there's one step that many people miss, because it doesn't seem to make sense. Start by doing a Factory Reset. If that doesn't fix it, re-install the FW v3.11, making certain that you follow the directions COMPLETLY, including doing the Factory Reset AFTER the update (that's the step). If it still doesn't work, use a MIDI Monitor to see EXACTLY what the Arduino is sending. See if you can borrow another external controller to test with. If it still doesn't work, open a support ticket. I use an FCB1010 with the UNO2 chip, and have no such problems on my HXS or my Floor. FWIW - someone on TGP discovered, and I've confirmed, that when using FS toggling from an external controller, ON/OFF Values (127/0) are ignored, the toggle occurs regardless of the Value sent. Just so you don't go crazy trying to figure out what's wrong with your controller!

Can I call 'em, or what?

Did you get it working? What was the solution?

This is true. It's more of a studio solution, unless he wants to use his Scarlett live. Not a great idea. My 18i20 can go in a rack and be used as a mixer for live recording, but in that case I wouldn't use S/PDIF.

AND there's his opening, in 10, 9, 8.......

Gotcha.

"FRFR" is a meaningless marketing term. Full Range means that it will reproduce 20-20k. Nothing we commoners can afford is truly Flat Response. PC+ is made for guitar, and is tuned to sound like a guitar cab. IOW - it's not designed for vocals. Will it sound OK? Only you can decide that. Do you have a good recording of your band? Run it through the PC+. Play your guitar over it with L6 Link. If it sounds good, it is good.

I have a $22 6ft Radio Shack (wasn't long enough), and a $20 10ft C2G from Amazon. They both work fine. If I was buying today, I'd get this: AmazonSmile: 12 Foot SPDIF Cable – Gotham GAC-1 S/PDIF-Pro (Ultrablue) High-End Silver Plated LCOFC Digital Audio Interconnect Cable & Amphenol ACPR-SRD Gold RCA Plugs - Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES : Electronics $24. Don't pay $40 for a 6ft cable. Unless you think that a $60 10ft Mogami guitar cable sounds better than a $20 10ft Live Wire.

That's what we're talking about! SEEK, and ye shall find! What have ye found? How to find the latest manual. How to read a manual. How to use the internet. How to use YouTube. Oh, yeah, and the solution to your problem. You're a better, smarter, more capable human for having visited this forum. And STILL you whine! Oy vey!

I run a virtually identical system, only I have the 18i20 (2nd Gen). If your 18i8 is 1st Gen, there's part of the difference right there. Question: Why are you running XLR to the 18i8? Use S/PDIF and keep it in the digital realm. The difference between 1st Gen and 2nd Gen is mostly in the preamps. S/PDIF eliminates the preamp (whatever Gen) as an issue. Also cuts the latency (and sonic affect) by two DA/AD conversions, one DA at the Helix and one AD at the Scarlett. Eliminating the preamp coloration will get you closer to the Helix direct HP sound, but the difference is also at least partially caused by different HP preamps and Output Impedances relative to your HP impedance. FWIW - "Studio Grade" means whatever the marketing dept at KRK decided it means. It's not any kind of objective standard. I've no clue what the Impedance of your cans is, but I use the 55ohm AKG K240. I also have "Studio Grade" Sony MDR-V6 cans (63ohm), and I prefer the "Consumer Grade" AKGs. Try some different cans if it makes that big a difference to you. That is truly a YMMV thing.

You must be self-identifying. You have 6 posts, one whining, one insulting. I do not think that word means what you think it means.

You've heard the old saying, "you can make some of the people happy some of the time...."? Go to Ideascale, do a search, VOTE for it! And if it hasn't yet been proposed yet, DO IT!

I'm going to guess that, since the Returns can be used for all sorts of things, including 4cm, that's the reason why they're not included in the MULTI setting - potential for feedback loops? Anyhow, you'll probably need to use an external tuner between your A/B box and the Returns, or contact tuners on the acoustics.

Instructions - How to use a Technical Manual 1) Make sure that you're looking at the MOST RECENT version. This can usually be found on the Mfr's website. Don't know how to use the Internet? See section 42. 2) Consult the Table of Contents (usually located at the front of the manual, just after the Title and Copyright pages) for the section relating to your GENERAL issue. 3) Consult the INDEX (usually located at the back of the manual) for specific issues and further references which might be elsewhere in the manual. This may require you to scan the entire index, as the Technical Writer may not have called it what YOU think it should be called. 4) Still no joy? Search for an online forum related to your product. Ask. But if you haven't completed the above steps, don't be surprised or offended if the answer includes a bit of good natured snark. Learn from it.

I must be misunderstanding. If your tube amp only has one preamp, you only have that to play with. Multi channels can be switched using CommandCenter. BUT, in 4cm, you can replace it with any Helix amp or preamp. simply by toggling the FX Loop ON (Helix pre/amp OFF) for the tube pre and OFF (Helix pre/amp ON) for the Helix pre/amp. The pre/post relationship of the fx remains the same. If your point is that you MUST have analog pre, with multiple variations, adding your ADA-MP1 gives you two. Add another, maybe a Kingsley, now you have three. Add another...now your pedalboard/rack is getting pretty big.... Like I said, I must be misunderstanding. What am I missing?

Since you KNOW it's the LT, open a support ticket. There's nothing we can do for you here. If it's under warranty, they'll take care of you. If it's used AND out of warranty, they'll tell you where to send/take it for repair. My only comment/suggestion is, with the LT disconnected from everything but the power and guitar, are you getting signal from the headphone jack?

Don't mean to be rude, but all of that is covered in detail in the HXS Manual. Re-typing it here is unnecessary, and probably wouldn't be nearly as clear as is laid out in the manual. If, after reading the manual, you have specific questions, come on back.

TOUCH (not press) the Stombox button. When the dialog appears, select CUSTOMIZE.

TOUCH (not press) both switches. When the dialog appears, press the OK knob.

If you want to bypass the signal chain entirely, use Analog Bypass. From the manual: NOTE: There are two types of All Bypass in HX Stomp: Analog bypass (sometimes called “true bypass”), where mechanically switching relays route your signal directly from the inputs to the outputs with no processing or A/D/A conversion, and DSP bypass, where any delay echoes and reverb tails decay naturally. By default, HX Stomp is set for Analog bypass, but this behavior can be set from “Global Settings > Preferences”. ------------------------------------------------------------ If you want to do this hands-free you'll need a basic MIDI pedal. CC#70 Value = 0 is BYPASS ON; Value 127 = BYPASS OFF.

The only way to do this is to have an expression pedal set to send CC#7. That controls the PC+ output volume (replaces the PC+ Volume knob), which does not affect the PC+ XLR out level or the Helix output level. This requires a MIDI cable from the Helix to the PC+.

Since you say that this is happening on all presets and in all circumstances, I'm going to suggest that you do a back-up, then perform a factory reset. I had this problem once, and that cured it.

I'm pretty sure it's been requested on Ideascale. Do a search and vote for it. I'm guessing that it's not a high priority request, but who knows?