rd2rk

Your patch won't DL. What's the input on the second path set to?

Start with checking the wiring and the input jack. It could also be a defective pickup or, if the guitar has active pups, a bad battery.

Try turning on the Input Pad in Global Settings Ins/Outs. Could just be that the pickups in that guitar are too hot and overloading the Input. If every guitar does it, then it would be something else, but if it's just that guitar, it's the guitar.

Powercab 112 Hardware update - Powercab - Line 6 Community EDIT: Solution: Use MIDI to send CC#5 to the Powercab. Value of 0 = OFF, Value of 113 = ON 0.0db.

No idea why that would happen, but...silly question...why not just leave it at the default?

I'm always amazed at the crazy things humans do. I would truly be amazed if someone did this mod to a Helix. Silly humans!

FWIW - MIDI from HXS recorded in LIVE plays back as expected so, yes, HXS receives MIDI from LIVE just fine.

AFAIK, and per the basic tests I just ran, changes performed from HXS light things up as expected, but the same changes performed in the LIVE UI do not reflect back to HXS.

As @spaceatl said, but read this, and maybe contact Midisolutions support directly for confirmation that you won't damage either the amp or Helix. Frequently Asked Questions about MIDI Solutions Products

That is correct. IIRC, 1 is LEFT and 2 is RIGHT. 1+2 just allows you to use the same IR on both with a single entry, and control them both with one set of controls (linked).

Wait - you're not one of those "soft rock/easy listening" guys, are you? REPENT! Repeat after me - "Louder is Better!" Rejoice in the Holy Feedback! TURN IT UP! ELEVEN! ELEVEN!

No. Strangely, on the HXS, CC#71 allows you to select the Mode, but NOT on HXFX or HXS-XL. At least, per the manuals. Weird.

I see far more users opting for Helix amps through tube power amps and real guitar speakers than tube preamps into SS modelers into FRFR, but some mfrs are building their guitar amps like that so, who knows. My thought is that, if I'm going to spend $850 to get "feel", I want it ALL! Tube pre>Tube Power>Guitar speaker. But no way am I gonna spend $850 for a three legged chair.

Thus proving once again that louder IS better! :-)

Yes. The purpose is to establish that everything is working correctly. If L6 Link is working as designed, you don't need the MIDI. Once you know that it's working correctly, then worry about what IRs you use in each cab.

OK, had another cup of coffee and calmed down a little. I'll try to explain why I think an AIAB, even with preamp tubes, is NOT the solution. Companies have been doing what Victory is doing with their AIAB series for DECADES. It's never been a really popular solution. The only thing that's new there is combining the preamp tubes with a Class D SS power amp. Tube amp "feel" is a result of the COMBINATION of preamp tubes, power amp tubes, and a GUITAR speaker in a GUITAR cab. 1 + 1 +1 = 1000! When they first came out, I watched the Anderton's video review of the Victory AIAB devices. Anderton's, IIRC, has a stake in Victory. It seemed to me that they were trying REALLY hard to find something nice to say, and the tones were NOT very impressive. Also, consider the realities of putting 4 tubes in a tiny box. Instant hand warmer for those cold spring/fall outdoor gigs. Instant frying pan in summer. Heat is the enemy of electronics. Is there a Victory authorized (with EXPERIENCED tech) service center in YOUR town? Does anyone in your town even own ANY Victory product? AND, in the end, the final component in tube amp "feel" is the speaker. The GUITAR speaker in a GUITAR CAB. You're already losing that whenever you put your signal through an IR and FRFR. All of this is to say that, while you can get excellent sounds from Helix>FRFR, indistinguishable from a tube amp TO THE AUDIENCE or on a recording, that extra 5% of tactile pleasure that you, as the player, gets from a real tube amp, is not gonna come from an AIAB through FRFR. Learn how to better use your Helix. Maybe spend your money on a Powercab. or an actual, REAL tube amp. I have all three options - FRFR112, Powercab 212+ and Eganater Tweaker 15/112 Combo. I can make all of them SOUND great, and the "feel" aspect is only really apparent when I use the real tube amp. But then, it always sounds like exactly what it is. Limited to that sound, and the "feel" thing, while pleasant, is not that important to me. YMMV. Rant over.

WAIT - are you talking about the V4 Duchess AIAB? If so, disregard all of my wasted typing. Go ahead and spend your $850(!) on an AIAB to get MAYBE a 5% improvement over what you already have in your Helix. Also, if you're interested, I have a trans-oceanic bridge for sale in Arizona......

"Feel" means something different to everyone who uses the word. Even if you tried to describe it, it wouldn't make any sense to me because I can't "feel" it through your senses. Here's what I would do if I had that problem. Purchase a HIGH QUALITY Reactive Load Box such as the Suhr Reactive Load. Signal Path: Guitar (cabled)>Helix (attn to Input Impedance settings)>FX>Helix Send 1>V4 Input>V4 Send>Helix Return 1>FX>Helix L/Mono Out>V4 Return>V4 Speaker Out>Reactive Load Box>RL Line Out>IR Loader (or back to Helix Return 2 for the IR)>IR Loader(or Helix Send 2)>FOH/FRFR ALT Signal Path: Guitar (cabled)>Helix (attn to Input Impedance settings)>FX>Helix Send 1>V4 Input>V4 Send>Helix Return 1>FX>Helix Send 2>V4 Return>V4 Speaker Out>Reactive Load Box>RL Line Out>IR Loader (or back to Helix Return 2 for the IR)>IR Loader(or Helix L/Mono Out)>FOH/FRFR I've described 4 methods above, depending on how you choose to wire it and where you get your IR. There's no real difference in latency except possibly in your choice of external IR Loader if you choose to go that way vs a second trip back to Helix for the IR (recommended). One method may have noise advantages over the other. Be Sure to set the I/O-S/R levels properly in Global Settings>Ins/Outs. This way you retain all of the advantages of Helix in 4cm, and also retain the sound of the V4 Power Amp which, after all, is at least half the reason to own one in the first place, and a MAJOR influence on "feel". HIGH QUALITY Reactive Load Boxes such as the Suhr ($350-400) are pricey. If you can't afford it, just use Helix/V4 in 4cm with your FRFR while you save your pennies for the right tool for the job. Afterthought - you might also consider the Two Notes Captor ($250). It doubles as an IR loader, saving (maybe) some latency/noise, but requires (IIRC - research it) that you use Two Notes IRs and learn the excellent Wall of Sound App way of doing things.

Attached. 4cm.hlx

My apologies. Sometimes I need to go to the Helix and actually do it ITRW. I forgot you can route the Path Output to the Sends without needing S/R Blocks. Here's an actual demo preset. Guitar Out Main 1/2 Click track on USB 3/4 going out Send 3 in Mono (or stereo) Tracks on USB 5/6 going out Sends 1/2 in Stereo (5/L, 6/R) I tested this using Reaper, with Helix as AI and outputs to my 18i20 in simple mixer mode, to my Studio Monitors. It all works fine on the Helix end. I'll leave it to @datacommando to get it working in Logic. Take it, Commando! ElvtnEdge.hlx

Here's a simple test example preset with the MIDI for the HF Trim setting. Just substitute your own IR in both devices. I found this in the manual: Powercab Plus systems can import IRs by way of the Powercab Edit software (see next section). It is possible to import any mono .wav file IR, provided it conforms to the compatible IR properties (48kHz, 24-bit, mono, 2048 samples). While this is very convenient, please be careful not to load just any .wav file as an IR or you may experience unexpected sonic results. SysEx files are not supported. When used in User IR stereo mode, the sample length is carefully truncated to 1024 samples. I'm not sure what this means. The YA IRs I'm using are in the specified format. Also, if Powercab is using 2048 when in Mono Mode, and L6 Link is not properly switching to stereo when you daisy chain a second PC112+, this MIGHT be the difference you're hearing. Pure speculation on my part, as I've never been able to hear a difference between 1024 and 2048. Just something to think about. Wondo100 IR.hlx

A well designed amp would blow a fuse first.

There's so much misinformation and pure speculation out there on the interwebs that a support person, while not wanting to call us idiots for believing it, can't waste brain cells trying to sort it all out. All they can do is follow protocol, apply what they've learned from experience, consult whatever "solutions" db they have available and, when all else fails, kick it up stairs to the engineers, who may or may not have time to look into it in our lifetimes. In the case of the Powercabs, I believe that this is complicated by a lack of communications from upstairs, combined with specific instructions to "just act dumb". I've said elsewhere that, the last time I asked about a bug-fix/update, the response was "I'm sure it's in the queue, but probably not high up on the priorities list." Welcome to the "L6 red-headed step-child club".

I googled Neuro Hub. I'd never seen that before, interesting concept. Troubleshooting nightmare? Does it have an app that allows you to view and edit the contents of the scenes?

Open PC Edit. Go to the SYSTEM tab. You'll see High Frequency Trim. Drag that full left and play. Drag it full right and play. Your PC 112+ cabs should both sound the same - dull with the slider to the left, fizzy with the slider to the right. Get a pair of MIDI cables and daisy chain the cabs. Make sure that the first cab is set to MIDI THRU, and both are set to the BASE CHANNEL on your Helix. In your preset, set the first IC to CC#5 with a Value of 113. That equals 0.0db on the PCs, the default HF Driver level. Now you can create a simple preset with an identical IR on both the Helix and the PCs, set to switch with Snapshots, and easily A/B the cabs with IRs on Helix or in the cabs. Interesting Tidbits - When the PCs were first released, many users complained that FRFR sounded awful, and the common ignorance was to use LF Flat or LF RAW instead. IOW, HF Driver OFF. Then they complained that it sounded like there was a blanket over the cab! That was also a common complaint about the Speaker Mode. It's my opinion that the problem was that the coaxial speaker worked TOO WELL. AND that L6 Link was faulty in that it didn't consistently control the HF Driver in the various Modes. IRs were fizzy and thin sounding, Speaker emulations were too dull sounding (as well as "doesn't sound like the real thing" - like people who use modelers are ever going to agree on THAT!). From the earliest days of FRFR modelers, to battle fizz, users applied radical high cuts, removing "inaudible" high frequency content, then wondered why their modelers sounded like a$$. The real problem was that they were using PA speakers with separate drivers, and they had no control over the HF Driver levels. FIZZ! Especially standing only a few feet from a speaker meant to fill a hall with sound. Powercab was designed to solve both problems. The coaxial speaker combines the frequency ranges at the cab, not 20 feet away, and the HF Driver level can be controlled. The problem with that is that you need MIDI to do it, compounded by a horribly written manual that doesn't even mention it apart from what CC# you need to do it. Sending CC#5 with a Value of 105 drops the HF Driver level -6.5db, just enough to take the edge off. As always, YMMV. Likewise, sending a Value >0 adds life to the Speaker emulations. Rant over. Let me know how it goes!