rd2rk

Flat mode with IRs. The XLR Out is just exactly what comes in the input (if using IRs on Helix), or the input through the IR in the Powercab (User IR) which, if using the same IR, sounds identical to having your IR Block at the end of the signal chain in Helix. However, the final sound will be colored by whatever speaker or FOH system the XLR Out is connected to. Which is no different than if you mic a guitar cab. What you hear at FOH is not the same as what you hear on stage. OTOH, if you use the Speaker Emulation Mode, what comes out the XLR Out (or USB if recording) is an emulation of the emulated speaker through an emulation of a mic. It will be VERY different than what you're hearing on stage from the Powercab, and THEN be further colored by the FOH system. I recorded that way (speaker emulation over USB), and TBH, it sounded BETTER than the actual Powercab in the room! Playback through my HR FRFR112 sounded like the XLR Out direct to the FRFR112 (XLR Out = USB). Here's an interesting test for when you get the Powercab (yes, it's worth it). With the Powercab in Speaker Mode, run the XLR Out through your PA or Headrush. Now turn the Volume knob on Powercab OFF. Doing that does NOT affect the level on the XLR Out. Listen to the difference between the Powercab direct and through FOH. Then do the same in Flat Mode with IRs. FWIW - using my HR FRFR112 with the XLR Out in Flat Mode with IRs alongside the Powercab is the best stage sound I get. They compliment one another somehow.

I would think so. By the same token, some people consider garlic an erotic scent....that's kind of my relationship with hi-gain amps - I like 'em when I'm in the mood, but too much makes them all sound the same - like what too much garlic does to food!

I REALLY wanted a real-world Diezel amp, but I bought a car instead. :-) Sounds like another hi-gain amp to me. I can't tell 'em apart ITRW, so......I'll just have fun playing it, and let the tube-sniffers argue that stuff.

The switch requires a harder press than you'd think, ESPECIALLY if the unit is on a carpeted surface. If it is, try putting a board under it.

Yes, especially combined with the Looper as suggested by @silverhead.

I don't have HXFX, so I was going to look at it in Native compatibility mode. Unfortunately, it won't import. Maybe because I'm on 3.01? Don't know but I can't help if I can't do that. Maybe someone else who does have HXFX will chime in?

Attach a copy of your preset and we'll see if we can figure out what's wrong. Also describe how the MTB is wired into the HXFX.

That is the case. If you had the full-fat Helix you'd be able to connect to the XLRs and route USB 1/2 there, thus keeping it separate from the 1/4" outs that you need for 4cm.

Thanks! Can't believe everything you read. Shocking!

@phil_m - I read somewhere that you should go to v3.0 before going to v3.01. Is that yes or no?

Something to consider. I know you said you don't care about stereo, but v3.0 has a new effect called "Stereo Imager". As I understand it, despite the speakers being right next to each other, if you feed the cab a stereo signal with the Stereo Imager last in the chain, it'll enhance the stereo field and make it sound HUGE.

There ya go! Says right on the cab - with the switch in STEREO mode, each side is 8ohms and can handle 120watts. If the amp puts out 100watts into 8ohms, each speaker is getting 50watts, which should be fine with V30s.

Yes. All 4x12 cabs are not created equal. What's the ratings on the speakers in the cabs? If each pair of speakers sums to 8ohms, and the amp puts out 100 watts into 8ohms, then each speaker is getting 50 watts. Can the speakers handle that?

Since this is NOT a problem with most amps, you might point out to them that the ExtAmp switching function on Helix is a simple open/closed circuit switch, and ask them what the difference is in their switching method. Of course, it could be a National Secret/CIA/NEED TO KNOW thing, but the more specific you are when you contact them, the less opportunity they have to "blame the other guy".

This is a problem that's especially prevalent with Mesa amps. There have been many posts, and many helpful suggestions, but I've never seen an actual solution. I keep suggesting that those with this (and other Mesa related problems) contact Mesa support, but I don't remember anyone actually doing that. Maybe you could be the first?

I've attached a pair of presets that (I think) demonstrate OP's problem. Buttons 3 and 4 are set identically to do what the preset name indicates - in GoTo 102 they switch to 102 and vice versa. Button 3 always works as programmed. Button 4 will go to the other preset, but will not, once in that preset, return to the other preset. It's also interesting that, when programming the buttons, when you manually enter the preset # and hit enter, it changes to two numbers lower. The only way to hit the desired number is to use the arrows. Not sure it's related, but interesting nonetheless. GoTo 101.hlx GoTo 102.hlx

Wrong forum. This is where you go if you're serious about suggestions for changes and improvements: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index Before posting a new idea, please search to see if it's already been proposed. If 100 people vote on the same idea presented 20 different ways, it looks like only 5 people care about it! Also, post your ideas one at a time. I for one NEVER vote for multple combined suggestions.

OK, wise-assery aside, the answer is YES, although I'm not sure if the factory is open TODAY......

That's why they add that "smoke" color to the electricity, so you'll know if you have a leak.

We seem to be having a translation issue, but I think I see the problem. By "cc" you mean Command Center. You want FS 4/5 to work as HX Preset Prev/Next. Command Center settings are saved "Per Preset". They are NOT Global. If you move from one preset to another, the buttons will not work UNLESS BOTH presets are configured for those buttons to work that way. If you have the buttons set to Prev/Next in Preset X, then press the button to move to Preset Y, if the buttons are not configured as Prev/Next in Preset Y they will not work as expected. You can make the buttons work that way in ALL presets by changing the Global Function from Stomp 4/Stomp 5 to Preset UP/Preset DOWN, but then that's how they work in ALL Presets. IOW - you need to make a choice. To effectively use Preset Prev/Next with Command Center, all presets that you need it for need to be set up that way or once you get to a preset that's NOT set that way, you're stuck! If you set the switches for Preset UP/DOWN Globally, that's all you'll be able to use them for. You should also be aware that, if the Global Setting for those switches is set to Preset Up/Down, and you also use the switch in a preset as a Block Bypass, when you press the switch the HX will go crazy and start cycling through EVERY PRESET. The only way out is to reboot.

You've got the BIG KNOB dimed. Just zero it, no setting to lose!

You didn't ask a question, just ranted on about stuff that's been answered 100 times elsewhere. None of us work for L6, and you're not paying us to listen to you vent.

That one would likely also work and cheaper/smaller than the BOME Box (and not as ugly!), but all the same drawbacks.

As long as it's a Line Input, a normal dual 1/4" to dual RCA will be fine. Also, the regular 1/4" Outputs (set to LINE) will probably work best. There is no mic output, you probably meant Headphone, which may also work, but if you already have a TS to RCA cable, no need to buy an Insert Cable.

Global Settings>Footswitches FS4 Function = <FS MODE; FS5 Function = FS MODE> Global Settings>Preferences EXP/FS TIP (or Ring, dep on your FS) = FS4; EXP/FS RING = FS5 Again, depending on your FS, Tip and Ring Polarities may need to be reversed. My Moskey Dual Switch works fine. What are you using?