cruisinon2

Ahh, the attempts to describe tone will never cease to amuse me. My favorite terms and phrases from this thread: immediateness livelier raw punch raw but polished bark authority grown up aggression We all get to sounding very silly with this stuff at times. ;) From now on, I'm sticking with: "I like it", or "I don't like it", lol

IR's can only do so much. Either the cabinet in question can faithfully produce the necessary frequency ranges, or it can't. If you really want convincing acoustic tones, FRFR is the path of least resistance.

Please...at this point we should consider ourselves lucky if Pfizer isn't working on a "guitar pill". "Look Ma, I'm talented!" Ugh... Instant gratification, zero effort...'Murica!

It's a custom piece from a guy named Woody Phifer. No pics on my phone, but It's similar to this one I found online...mine is HSH, and blue burst finish. This one looks a little more purple.

My advice...get the singer to learn to strum a few chords. ;) It's always difficult to fill the space with just 1 guitar, and FX can only do so much before you start to sound like a spaceship. One of my favorite bands is King's X, and they're a 3-piece. Their recipe for getting a big live sound has always been putting a fair amount of distortion on the bass (he also sometimes plays with 8 or 12 string basses)...not the easiest thing to sell to your bass player necessarily, and by itself is probably not the most pleasant thing to listen to, but in a mix it can work...at least it has for them for 30+ years.

Trying to wrap my head around why this would be the case. I'm a fan of low action and as little relief as I can get away with...but with the exception of one remarkably stable neck I have, all my guitars are as susceptible to temp and humidity changes as the next guy's. I don't see how straight the neck is or isn't, or where the strings live relative to the frets would confer any sort of immunity to temperature changes. Heat things up and they expand, cool them off and they shrink...their relative positions at the outset, seems to me would be largely irrelevant. Some necks are just more stable than others. Quality of the craftsmanship and the individual piece(s) of wood in question (a newer build, vs. a 20 year old neck that has "settled") play far bigger roles than anything else.

Dude...if you're actually having problems, posting in an 18 month old thread titled "Line 6 - Very happy!" is probably not the best way to get the right sets of eyeballs to read your post.

No, but if you do manage to convince anyone, tell them I have some lovely beach front property for sale in Kansas...

2 years, 8 months, and 13 days...not quite a resurrection record, but impressive...;)

You could have done that on day 1 instead of suffering for a year, and simply kept the stock neck in case you needed warranty work. All you'd have needed is a Philips head screwdriver and an IQ bigger than your shoe size, and not a soul would have ever known that that it had been removed.

Well I won't criticize it, as it doesn't sound "bad", however it's nothing to write home about either...I'm not hearing anything in that video that you can't do with Helix, or the 500X for that matter.

Don't know if that one will fit or not...even if the heel fits OK in the pocket, you may still have scale-length issues. Only way to tell is to bolt it on and see if the intonation is wildly off or not. Or skip the experimentation and just get a Strat neck. If you're picky about the profile and nut width, Warmoth has several shapes and nut sizes to choose from...don't think Mighty Mite offers much in the way of options, aside from compound radius vs. straight 9.5" radius all the way up the neck.

You think this one is bad? The "piezo plink" threads over on the JTV forum are absolutely unstoppable by any force known to man...

Roughly translated: "Go Helix!!!" 😅 All that's missing is a visual of the exhaustive analysis: Head scratch and a confused grunt...like if you handed a cell phone to a gorilla. Then someone asks: "How many units? (Pause for a response) That's it?!? Next....;)

Well "flaw" implies some sort of defect which would presumably have an accompanying remedy. I don't think that's the case here, though. Some woods tend to move more than others, in my experience. How well its made, and the individual piece(s) of wood in question no doubt play a role, but in general I find that my guitars with maple necks (especially one-piece designs - as opposed to having a separate glued-on fretboard, even if both pieces are maple) are particularly susceptible to temp and humidity changes, and require more frequent adjustments as compared to my other guitars with rosewood or ebony boards. Having a glued joint seems to impart additional stability, somehow. It does seem a little counterintuitive to me, but what do I know? I'm neither a botanist, nor a structural engineer. 😉

The thread that just keeps on plinking....uh, I'm mean giving. ;) Is not a "defect", it's a "feature". 😅

No power amp is totally transparent...who cares if Joe Blow over at the Gear Page says that he couldn't "sound just like Yngwie anymore" because of the Rocktron amp he bought? The POD has knobs. Tweak to taste. That aside, while it's generally best to match impedances, as long as the cab's impedance is the same or higher than the rating on the amp, you should have no problems. I ran an 8 ohm amp into a 16 ohm cabinet for years without a hiccup. You will lose some power this way, because you're supplying more resistance than the amp is expecting, but it shouldn't damage anything. What you CAN'T do, is go the other way...an 8 ohm amp into a 4 ohm cabinet is what we call "bad". ;) Look for an amp with selectable impedance...they're out there.

There is no "best" anything in Variax Land, and no magic settings. Modeling is a strange world...you can try different combinations of guitar bodies and pickups, but you're probably better off trying other amp models, and/or tweaking your existing patches on the POD to better suit the guitar you're using. I've got patches specific to each guitar that I use regularly...for example, I find it's rare to be able to use a guitar (or a Variax model) with single coils along with a patch that I dialed in using high-output humbuckers. They're never gonna sound the same...

The day I encounter a device that has factory presets that are usable as-is, I suspect I will drop dead from the shock. "One size fits all" is not a concept that's applicable to a pursuit that is subject to as many variables as guitar tone. The box itself is the ONLY thing all users have in common...guitars, amps, cabs, pickups, fingers, the listening environment itself...those ALL change from user to user, yet the patch itself is supposed to be the great equalizer? Never gonna happen. End of story...

Well Guthrie Govan is from another planet. Definitely one of the aforementioned "exceptions" to the rule...that guy is more at home in weird, syncopated time signatures than most people are at playing straight 4/4, lol

In my experience, front of amp = huge (often noisy) mess. If there's an FX loop, use it and see if the same symptoms appear. Even with no FX engaged, nothing you run the signal through is ever totally transparent.

All of these questions are specific to your listening environment, and can't be answered remotely...your ears are the only ones in the room. However... 1) You mentioned low end mud, not high end fizz, so if the top end doesn't sound harsh, then leave the HF trim alone. 2) You already bought the pads....try them first before you worry about buying stands. Nobody can tell you which will "make a bigger difference" for your situation anyway. It's entirely possible that either one would work equally well, but there's only one way to find out.

EVERY time you play through something different, your tone will change. Sometimes it's subtle, sometimes it's night and day. If you plug in a different set of headphones, you have my personal guarantee that it's not gonna sound identical. So yes, a different speaker will make a difference...whether it not it'll be better or worse, there's only one way to find out. However, if your complaint is too much low end "muddiness" from a 5" driver, moving up to a 12" or 15" box is not gonna help you. It's likely to make the problem exponentially worse. Bigger speaker = more low end. Use the low cut filter under the cab parameters on the POD....somewhere between 100-120 Hz. 99.97% of the problems you're having can be solved from the POD itself. Speakers are not a magic bullet. What you have are in fact, quite good. And no matter what else you buy, they're not gonna sound exactly like your headphones. I've got one set of patches for headphones, and another for my L2T that I use live. Bedroom volume and stage volume are two totally different worlds. Perceived loudness of different frequency ranges changes with volume...it's just the way our brains process sound. A tone you dial in at comfy living room levels, when cranked to stage volume will sound VERY different.

Yeah, I've always found it difficult to emulate his phrasing for that reason....sometimes some of the "warp speed" stuff is easier to pull off. At least all the notes land right where they're "supposed" to, lol.

Well of course I'm just one guy, but I've never heard of that thing, nor the company that makes it...and I'd like to think I'm at least a little bit knowledgeable about what's out there. If they intend to give anybody a run for their money, they're gonna need better brand recognition than "Who?!?"...;)