cruisinon2

Lots of us have replaced the 69 neck with Strat necks...Warmoth, Mighty Mite, etc. The off-set holes are easily dealt with. If you have Warmoth build one from scratch, they won't pre-drill the holes unless you ask for it. But even if the holes are already there, doweling and re-drilling is well within the wheelhouse of any decent luthier... It's actually quite common to have those threads get stripped on older Strats...fairly common repair job.

It's really no different than any other EQ. It's there if you need it. Every room you play in is different. If, for example, you find one night that everything is sounding muddy, then turn it on, and roll of the low end off a bit, otherwise you're stuck digging into every patch and tweaking each one separately.

It's not likely to be cost effective to fix it. It's 3 generations behind the curve, and while I'm not certain, I don't think it's supported with firmware updates anymore. I'd cut my losses at 35 bucks and look at a used 500 or 500X.

That decal doesn't exactly make you wanna have a beer with the guy. There's a reason Gibson doesn't stamp "Les Paul" on the headstock 43 times. If you wanna put your name on something you designed, fine, but be classy...do it once. Look at my guitar, Look at my guitar, Look at my guitar, Look at my guitar, Look at my guitar....

Lol. And they all seem to be employed at well known repositories of wisdom and correct answers, such as your local Gigunda Music Mall.

Good question. The following is personal opinion (completely devoid of numerical value ;) ) based upon professional experience, though I am NOT a physician, and this should NOT be considered medical advice in any way... I spend all day looking at lumbar spine CTs and MRIs. I've lost count of the number of times that I've looked at two sets of images that were basically identical, yet one patient will report only minor discomfort, while the other is in agony and can barely move. Pain tolerance varies widely. So as far as I'm concerned, that 1-10 pain scale is archaic, provides little to no insight as to what is going on anatomically, and is of little (if any) diagnostic value. As always, ymmv.

I should be more careful? Who was it who called into question the intelligence of anyone who dared to disagree? No one likes to be told they're stupid. But never mind, you win. The last word is all yours.

No one...not myself, nor anyone else ever once suggested that an opinion "doesn't count unless it can be quantified". Rather, that attempting to put a number on an opinion, when there is no concrete and measurable standard with which to compare it, is meaningless in the end. There is no Standard Opinion Scale to consult. But all that means is that the NUMBER doesn't mean anything, not the opinion itself. We all like what we like, and nobody is "right" or "wrong". You are reading things into other's comments that were never there in the first place.

What's in the rest of your rig? Are you running FRFR, or into a guitar amp? If it's the latter, the acoustics are never gonna sound right no matter what you do...guitar amps are just too mid-rangey for acoustic tones. Even a real acoustic guitar through a traditional guitar amp will generally sound like crap.

Ahh...so those who disagree, only do so because of a profound misunderstanding of your intelect. I see. Well at least that's settled. Forge ahead then, assigning random numbers to personal judgements, opinions, and perceptions which cannot be quantified.

These two ideas are mutually exclusive. You can't assign a numerical value to something that's entirely subjective. As such, there's nothing to calculate. We're dealing with opinions and perception, not objective truth. It's as useless as arguing over what the number 7 or the color blue smells like. Just my 2 cents.

Couldn't say for sure, but I don't think that polyurethane is used much in guitar finishes. By and large, they are too hard, and don't move with the wood. This can become a problem, particularly on a bound neck or body. The wood will still swell and shrink with changes in humidity, but the binding and the polyurethane finish stay right where they are. Over time, you start to see a very thin gap between the finish and the body of the guitar along the binding seams (not to be confused with loosening binding, that's a different problem). Shows up as a thin white line along the seams. I own a guitar with a polyurethane finish, and this is exactly what happened. The luthier who built it has gone back to using traditional lacquer for this reason. On the plus side, the finish is so friggin' hard, it's almost impossible to put dings in it without a hammer. I've had this guitar for 15 or 16 years, gigged with it countless times, and in all that time have put only one tiny ding in the headstock. Gave it a good whack a couple of times (the kind of thud when you're afraid to look at the damage...) only to find it without a scratch. Even those tiny swirls that usually develop in the finish are almost non-existent on this thing. Also makes for a very bright sounding guitar. FWIW, the condition is somewhat fixable. He was able to punch a few pinhole-sized holes into the space under the finish, and wick some of the same polyurethane finish in there...filled the gaps and you really can't tell anything ever happened, save one or two tiny spots.

Because it's hilarious to watch a bunch of people debate the relative merits of a device that most (if not all) have never even seen in person, let alone actually used. May as well be arguing over which version of the space shuttle was easier to pilot...(The 'Discovery' was 12% easier to land than the 'Columbia') ;)

Lmao...Amen.

I'm consistently surprised by the number of UK actors who pull off regional American accents so well...half the time I have no idea that they're from across the pond until I see an interview. They all seem much better at sounding like us than we are at sounding like them...lol. Quite the skill.

The modulation must be what's red lining the DSP, I guess...most of my patches have everything else on that list, but I don't use modulation very often. Hardly ever, really.

Set up a dual-amp patch. One clean amp, and one dirty. Then assign the channel volume for each amp to the expression pedal so that one fades out as the other fades in. I have several patches set up this way...it's great. Seamless transition from one to the other. If you want to do it in post, that generally means recording each part separately, and fading in and out each track as necessary.

Everyone take our your lucky rabbit's foot, and on the count of three we'll all give them a great big rub...maybe Helix will ship sooner.

I keep asking for a bassoon model on Ideascale, but I think they're ignoring me...

Not trying to talk you out of a Helix, but I've got several dual-amp patches set up exactly the way you describe for rhythm/lead tones. You should be able to set that up with what you've already got pretty easily, if you're not ready to drop $1500 on a new toy just yet.

You do realize you just made every OCD, Helix-obsessed, tone-seeker reach for the Xanax, don't you? ;)

Lol...we'll that settles it then. If it appeared on a computer screen, it must be true. Especially if the computer is connected to the Interwebs...everything on the Interwebs is 100% accurate. ;)

I'm guessing that you got rid of your 500 before the global EQ was added. It's a bit it easier to EQ for the room now...no more fiddling with every patch your gonna use for the night.

Oh boy! Another thread totally devoid of anything but speculation, wishful thinking, and hand-wringing...whoo hoo! Ready...set...GUESS!!!

Zombie Thread Alert!!!