Digital_Igloo

I don't have a video, but if there are any YouTube videos on the 6-Switch Looper in Helix, Helix Rack/Control, Helix LT, or HX Effects, they'd apply to POD Go's 6 Switch Looper. They're pretty much the same looper, other than recording time.

I'm not a sales guy, but three things should be noted: If our models were less sophisticated, more blocks would fit in the same DSP (like older PODs) If our product were a lot more expensive, we'd put a second DSP in and provide additional block locations (like Helix LT) As it is, we've attempted to give people the biggest bang for the buck without sacrificing sonics. If another affordable box gives you more simultaneous blocks, it's not because it's more powerful; it's because the models aren't as sophisticated. AFAIK, POD Go has the most powerful SHARC in its class.

Front Of House, or the mixing position in a venue where the sound guy sits/stands. By default, the MAIN OUTS and AMP OUT are identical, except the AMP OUT is always mono. (The MAIN OUTS can also be mono if you only connect the L/MONO jack and not the right.) Each has its own Line/Instrument setting in Global Settings > Ins/Outs, but AMP OUT has the additional ability to be set to tap off the signal from right before the Cab/IR block; if so, the Cab/IR block and any block after it will not be heard from that output.

Yes.

Global EQ is at the very end, after the last block, before the MAIN OUTs. It doesn't apply to the AMP OUT jack. Not sure what you mean by "HPF before the first block." Low cuts appear in the Preset EQ, Global EQ, and if you want to add EQ > Low and High Cut as one of the four open effects blocks.

Assuming your amp's effects loop is instrument level, make sure Global Settings > Ins/Outs > Main Out Level and FX Loop Level are both set to "Instrument." Shouldn't be as loud then.

Wait. Is the issue with swapping out the Wah block for, say, a delay... or moving/reordering blocks? In POD Go you can move all the blocks in any order you wish (even weird orders, like cab before amp). Not sure about the Mooer, but there are plenty of affordable modelers that don't let you move things freely.

No. The Snapshot icon will be either white or red depending on the Global Settings > Preferences > Snapshot Edits value.

Please carefully read the update instructions and release notes here.

Note that the Mooer GE250 does the same thing—except all but two of its blocks are fixed. The Distortion, Amp, Cab, Noise Gate, FX Loop, Delay, and Reverb can't be switched to anything else. Say you're a porcupine and you want to throw a pool party. Your swimming pool's juuuuust big enough to fit four hippos (freely-assignable effects), two elephants (Amp+Cab or Amp+IR), four ducks (Volume, Wah, FX Loop, Preset EQ), a chicken (Input Gate), and a swan (Global EQ). So you carefully send out the invitations. On the day of the pool party, your four duck friends, your chicken friend, and your swan friend all show up and are swimming around, having a great time. Your two elephant friends hop in and have a great time too. But one of your hippo friends calls: "Hey, can I bring a fifth hippo to the pool?" Sorry, there just isn't room for a fifth hippo. There's only enough room for four hippos. "Okay, but what if one of the ducks leaves? Can I bring him then?" No, because an hippo is bigger than a duck. He won't fit. "What about when all four ducks leave?" No, because your hippo friend is still bigger than all four ducks put together. "What about when all four ducks, the chicken, and the swan all leave?" No, because your hippo friend is still bigger than ALL of them put together. As Phil said, it's a way to get a full signal flow out of a smaller, less expensive DSP, which is what Mooer, Joyo, Hotone, BOSS, and older affordable Line 6 boxes do.

Just know that if you do both of the following... Before 3.0, complain about only 6 blocks After 3.0, complain about running out of DSP because you can't fill all 8 blocks with whatever you like ...we're sending thugs to your house to administer an atomic wedgie.

Legendary drive is technically a preamp, and running a high-gain preamp into another high-gain preamp will certainly add noise. Most people who use the Vai Legacy drive run it into a cleaner amp or one with the Gain knob turned pretty low.

If anything, 4CM is probably easier to set up in POD Go than other boxes because every preset has a dedicated FX Loop block. Typically, you only need to switch the FX Loop to mono (if it's not mono already). If you want to swap your real amp's preamp with one from POD Go: Select the Amp block, press the Lower Knob to open the model list, and select your favorite preamp. From Stomp footswitch mode, press and hold the FX Loop block switch. Make sure either the preamp block OR the FX Loop block is bypassed by selecting one and pressing the Upper Knob. In 4CM, pressing that switch will seamless swap out your real amp's preamp with one of POD Go's preamp models. It's loads of fun, especially when you're just starting out, trying to figure out which amps you like.

As designed. :)

The manual reflects POD Go firmware 1.10 (which was available for download before anyone got their POD Go), so if you haven't updated, the MIDI spec might not work as advertised.

If you set Global Settings > Ins/Outs > Amp Out Source is set to "Pre Cab/IR", anything to the left of the Cab/IR block is heard from BOTH the MAIN OUTS and AMP OUT and anything to the right of the Cab/IR block (including the Cab/IR block) is only heard from the MAIN OUTS.

This is all you need to do: Connect an expression pedal to the EXP 2 jack. Add a Volume/Pan > Volume Pedal block. Done. No assignment necessary. If things are screwed up, follow the above procedure from an empty preset.

Phil's right. The BNC is a Wordclock input for synchronizing the AES/EBU and S/PDIF digital output signals in professional studios.

Helix/HX Firmware 2.90 | Helix Native 1.90 "The Always Level Presets By Ear at Stage Volume with the Rest of the Band Playing Update" Full update instructions, details, and links here. IMPORTANT! You no longer need to download Line 6 Updater to update your Helix/HX hardware. Just download the latest version of HX Edit, log in, and it'll walk you through the steps. More info in the link above.

A couple products let you do this, but it drives us completely mad. Adding yet another layer of obfuscation—not to mention the constant feeling that you need to manage said extra layer of obfuscation—doesn't necessarily make things easier or more elegant; it's just deeper. Besides, why waste memory on X number of model presets for all the models you don't use? The point of Favorites is to instantly make available whatever you want, wherever you want, independent of category. So you could have twelve favorite versions of Revv Gen Purple right next to four favorite versions of Cosmos Echo right next to one favorite version of Plastichorus. Reorder, rename, put your best of the best at the top and any empty preset is 5-10 seconds from having your best-tweaked models added. The hope is the ability to import just the Favorites from a backup (by unchecking Presets, IRs, and Global Settings during a restore). Presumably, someone could share all 128 meticulously-tweaked favorite models with their friends. Jury's still out on whether that part will be in 3.0 tho'.

The short answer is... no one will ever agree on what constitutes a great model default. Everyone thinks there's some objectivity but there really isn't. What you think sounds amazing will sound like complete hot garbage to the next guitarist, based on a ton of factors: instrument, strings, pickups, playback system, playback volume, playing style, genre, tempo, whether you want it to sound good by itself vs. with a band vs. in a mix, etc. Just like All. Presets. Suck.©, all defaults suck. That's why we're letting you change them.

Just like no one will agree on what settings sound best on the front of a Fender Deluxe, no one will agree what settings sound best in the model of said Fender Deluxe. 3.0 will add User Model Defaults so every model can show up exactly the way you want it. Favorites is different.

Assuming you're not splitting and then merging a signal with the Ping Pong delay before the split (which requires a tiny bit of work to maintain its stereo spread), all you need to do is record a stereo track in Logic set to USB In 1/2 from HX Stomp. Also make sure there are no mono blocks after your delay that might collapse everything to mono. All amps, preamps, and single cabs are mono.

I typically strongly recommend against jumping straight into FRFR-land, especially if you're new to the world of modeling. Yes, POD Go's Amp and Cab blocks can be bypassed and you can use it as just effects, straight into the front of your amp. Then, if you end up with a different amp later that has an effects loop, you can try out 4-Cable Method. Or down the road, if modeling is working out for you, then and only then would I consider trying out a PA/FRFR speaker. 90% of the time, when someone says they don't like the sound or feel of modeling, it's due to the playback system, not the modeler. Switching to both at the same time robs you of this distinction, and you're more likely to give up. Also don't forget that if you like the sound of POD Go into your amp (or another amp in 4CM), there's no reason to *ever* switch to FRFR. Stick with what works for you.

Is the first IR 2048? If so, you wouldn't be able to add a second IR on that path, even if you had the DSP. Check out 8 TEMPLATES > Parallel Spans. It's a template where the amps are on paths 1A and 1B and the cabs (which you can swap out with IRs) are on paths 2A and 2B.