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Sorry you are having problems with your amp. Have you verified your guitar and cable are good and sending a signal to the amp? Have you plugged in headphones into the rear jack to see if there is any audio output that way?

If you have the backing track on your computer already, why do you need to record it again? Just put the backing track onto a track in your DAW (not familiar with the s/w you name), and record the guitar to a new track.

You could certainly try it on a different outlet, but you may have done something (physically) to the USB adapter when you put the higher volume signal to it.

I've had my 75 for about 6 years now, and usually these days I just go for manual settings, with no FX. My main guitar is a 72 Telecaster (I bought new in 72!) I replaced the neck pickup on it several years ago with an alnico one, as the original's volume had dropped off. In the last year, the bridge pickup has lost its volume, too. So last night I replaced both pickups, and the selector switch, pots and jack with new ones from GFS. Got it all set up, adjusted, with new strings, and plugged into my amp. The tone selector had gone over to the '70s songs' patches, and as I switched between some of them and tried the guitar out (Aqualung, Barracuda, Comfortably Numb), I was blown away by how good everything sounded! And those presets really did have the tones of the original songs, too. I'm sure the new Spider Vs have even better sound, but for the time being, my IV more than suits my needs.

Does your a/e guitar have a preamp? If so, then there are no issues, you can plug direct into any guitar amp. If it does not have a preamp, then you'll need one to use a guitar amp (I have a Radial PZ Pre pedal that can accommodate piezo non-preamp guitars). If you have an a/e with preamp, then the choice really comes down to what you require. Are you playing in a full band with drums? Are the amps miked (or DIed) to the main PA system? When I was using my Spider IV 75 in a full band (2 other guitars, bass & drums), I was using it for acoustic and electric guitars and keyboards. It had enough volume for practice (in a small room) but live, it was miked to the PA (as all the amps were). I think generally you will find that you need at least 60 solid state watts (for practice volumes) with a full band. If you practice at low volumes (maybe a percussionist - cajon, etc), you can get away with a 30 watt solid state amp. If you are not miking the amp to the PA for live performances, than generally, you're going to need more power.

For acoustic guitar only, I wouldn't recommend a Spider amp. If you use both acoustic and electric guitars, then a Spider is a good option as you can switch sounds quickly by changing patches.

Not familiar with that cable/adapter, but those inexpensive USB adapter tend to be noisy to start with. Is the amp connection end of it stereo? That's what the amp jack is, so you may need to adapt from stereo to mono first.

Do you have any way to test the mic - plugging into another device with phantom power?

Hi Rob Which Spider IV model do you have? To connect a Spider IV to a computer, you need to have an FBV MkII Express or Shortboard controller pedal. The amp connects to the pedal with a CAT5 cable, then the pedal connects to the computer by USB. Do not try to connect the amp direct to a computer via CAT5/Ethernet cable. You use Spider Edit software to edit and move custom tones to and from the amp.

Boss GT-10 is a fairly old (discontinued) model, maybe you mean GT-100? Either way, these are external (stomp-box type) effects processors. You would plug your guitar into it, then the output of it to the input of the amp. Most likely you would keep the amp on 'Clean' setting.

Sorry you are having problems. I have read about the same thing happening (but immediately after updating the firmware). First thing is to start a support ticket: http://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html

That's an old amp, there is a section in the forums for legacy amps: http://line6.com/support/form/52-spder-i-ii-iii/

Does it do the same thing if you plug headphones into the rear headphone jack? This would narrow down wither it is an amp or preamp problem. Have you tried doing a factory reset?

Do a search on youtube for DIY bass traps. You can make them 4" thick x 2'x4', with rockwool insulation, covered in any 'breathable' cloth (I've used burlap and thin cotton sheeting. You can make 'feet' for them so they stand by themselves, or hang from the walls on hooks, so easy to store away when not in use. You'll never be able to successfully remove the room reverb in PodFarm (or using any DAW plug-ins), have to stop them from being recorded. What microphone are you using? Using a dynamic mic might help if you are using a condenser mic now. You could also look at a 'reflection filter' (the sE brand is recommended by others) like this one: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Reflexion but you should still have some kind of absorbing material behind you. For the cost of one of these reflection filters you can build 4-8 bass traps!

I can understand why psark would tell people NOT to use external speaker cabinets - because some people would use incorrect loads (other than 8 ohms) or would only plug into one side of the amp, setting up a biasing which could blow components. But it is perfectly acceptable to plug an 8 ohm speaker cabinet/load into each side of the speaker output jacks - with speaker cables obviously. If it wasn't, then the combo amp would not have those jacks.

Not sure how you have hooked things up. Do you have the stereo headphone/DI form the amp to 2 inputs on the Scarlett? There would not be any Line 6 software involved in this set up - you would be using the Scarlett's drivers and whatever DAW you use.

If you plug a cable into the rear speaker jack(s) on the amp, it will cut out the speaker(s). So you cannot plug some type of monitor into the amp. If you use your 4x12 cabinet, you will want to make sure you use 2 cables, left and right amp jacks to left and right inputs on the cabinet.

What level are you getting on your DAW meters? Should be recording in the -20dB to -10dB range.

Have you looked at EZ Drummer? That's what I use. There are a lot of kits and various loops, almost infinite adjustability in them, and easy to use a MIDI editor with, too. And if you ever decide to move up to a VSTi with more capability, it can be upgraded to Superior Drummer.

Are you sure the 'echo' is natural reverb from the room? The simple solution would be to construct some free-standing bass traps (4" rockwool in frames) that you can use as movable gobos to block reflections.

No, you cannot 'move' the presets to the V using Spider Edit. It uses different modeling and control parameters.

It's been a long time since I played around with SpiderEdit, but that's where you'd add the notes.

aimhead has it correct - you need to adjust all the presets - these are basically starting points for you, and the overall tone will change depending on the master volume you are using. As to the behavior when you 'touch' the volume (or any other) knob - touching the knob "wakes it up" and thus changes whatever parameter it controls to where it is currently dialed to. For example, if the volume knob is pointing to 1, but the preset you have called up has the volume saved to 8, then the volume is going to lower drastically.

Does your guitar have active pickups (battery on board) by chance? I have heard of this problem happening with active pickups, the solution is to use a buffering stompbox pedal between guitar and Pod.

My guess is that it is something in the Solo's preamp causing the difference.