Charlie_Watt

Unfortunately with a digital processor, monitoring the output doesn't tell you if it's clipping. It could clip elsewhere in the chain. These boxes should have a digital clipping indicator to help us prevent clipping due to overdriving things.

I use an extension USB cable when I use the dongle with my PC so I can use one of the main USB ports on the back which are a PIA to get to. Now that I have an HD500x I never use the dongle anyway. It did work fine when I used it though.

Just because you had a "professional" set it up doesn't mean it was done right. The trem spring tension will have to be readjusted when changing string gauge. Lighter gauge strings require less spring tension. The nut is also wrong when you change string gauge. Strings may hang up in the slots which will be too deep.

Any tuner can tune with a pure sinewave. It's much more difficult to make a tuner that rapidly acquires just the fundamental of a guitar string vibration. Some do it much better than others. The fundamental isn't constant either. It's sharp when you first pluck the string - more so if you pluck it hard. It then decays to a lower frequency.

No. You would have to modify one or have it done by a professional. It can be done.

Earvana nuts are very similar material to the nuts that come with the JTV's. Stability will be the same if the nut slots are proper for your string gauge.

HD500x only supports the Workbench HD which only works with the JTV's and FW 2.0 or newer.

The 59 probably wants a Gibson style nut. Measure the width before ordering.

You do not need the USB cable shown with the new dongle. The cable on the Dongle plugs into a computer USB port but it is very short.

The JTV69 is set up and ships with 10's.

That is what mine looks like that came with my JTV that I bought last August. My serial number suggests that it was manufactured way before then. (in 2012) I have only used that dongle a couple times. I will probably never use it again now that I can use my Pod HD500x with workbenchHD. I can also upgrade the JTV FW with the pod interface - which I trust much more than that dongle.

No. The Pod 2.0 doesn't have a VDI interface for JTV. IT will work fine with the normal JTV guitar output. But there is no digital interface support.

Glad you got that sorted out. If you don't have a Pod, you need that interface to upgrade your FW or to use Workbench.

I leave my battery on the charger overnight. I think you get close to the 12 hours on a charge but I have never kept track of how much I played it between charges. I now use the VDI cable with my HD500x so I don't run on the battery all that much.

Neck issues were fixed many moons ago. The bridge was changed too on the 69. The cables from the floating bridge to the main board are different. The original had problems that made the trem hang up. My 2012 JTV has all of those fixes.

There is a new version of the interface that doesn't look anything like the above picture. It has a USB cable hanging out and an RJ45 port on the other end that goes to the Variax VDI cable. You should have received one of those if you did not receive one like in the picture.

The problems related to this are only one reason that this will never happen! Building a transplant is a very specialized task and there are only a handful of folks that would do this anyway. I considered doing it years ago but never had the time to design what I wanted. Warmouth did sill transplant bodies for a while for the 500 guts but the guts had to come from a donor guitar. There are many JTV models available and they are plenty nice so I lost interest in transplants.

It starts blinking way before it's fully charged though.

My guess is that the Variax bass was a bomb. Not enough sales to justify doing another one.

It's usually all about the Output Mode!

I agree that it's adequate but it's not good enough for me. I much prefer the Peterson strobelike pattern. For most tuners, the weakness is display resolution not absolute accuracy.

I have installed Earvana nuts on several guitars. You have to remove the old nut and then fit the bottom piece in the old nut slot. It has to fit perfectly level with the fretboard. Then you attach the top piece with three small screws. There are slots to slightly adjust the nut position to dial in the compensation.

I had the same experience on my Variax 500 when I first got it many years ago. It really makes a difference if you play near the nut. I am not sure why more guitars do not have this compensation. There is no down side to it that I can see. I have Earvana nuts on several of my guitars. I have not put one on my JTV69S yet. The nut it came with is set up perfectly - not to high not too low. In my experience, most guitars ship with the action too high. The Earvana makes a bigger difference when the action and string height at the nut is too high because you bend the strings sharp when you play near the nut. What size Earvana nut did you use on your 69? The neck is a bit narrower than my 500.

That is very good advice. What you are trying to do with all three things is accentuate the fundamental of the note. When tuning with a strobe tuner you can see how sharp the note is when first plucked. Some tune to this and some tune to the steady state. It makes a difference so you want to be consistent. Tuning on a fretted instrument is a major compromise. There are many good articles about this.

Sorry - I meant A/D in my post.