PierM

Fair enough. :) As for my setup, yes and no. Pedalboard it's basically reproducing my typical setup on my average Helix patch, so it's redundant in terms of stuff I need. I'm now moving more on the pedalboard (quicker, more reliable, tone is better), and using Helix just for record and get a better routing for specific projects, but I'm fading out form using it outside the studio/home.

What about switching to Helix Rack? This way you'd have the main LCD in a completely different angle, and you can put it where you want. Also much easier to protect from the light. You also said you do a lot of "on the fly" editing, so this is another good reason to use a rack. I do use a rack, never had a problem under any kind of light, direct, diffuse, whatever. Another good thing of using a rack, in daylight conditions, it's that you can put fans on the back to the rack, to control overheating, which can be really bad under the sun, on a Helix floor. Just food for thought... :)

It would make it worse if Helix LCD were already sporting a polarized screen, which I don't think it is, since this should black out the vision through a polarized lens, and it doesn't (at least not on my Helix)... If you do this with an iPhone, which does indeed use a polarized LCD screen, then yeah, it would make it basically black. Anyway, was just an idea. In theory, you could achieve same thing using a polarized film for LCD screens, this should absorb a big part of glare, making the screen much more readable under direct light. With sunglasses, you would also see scribble strips and footswitch rings. I quickly did a short clip using a polarized lens for camera, just to show what I mean. https://www.dropbox.com/s/p5ct2lm7xgr5xcy/IMG_2872.mov?dl=0 More reference; http://www.lcdparts.net/Film3D.aspx

Have you tried wearing sunglasses with polarized lenses?

I installed the 1.06 on my brother's G10T, and battery duration seems pretty much the same (average 2h), but the erratic led flashing (red, then green then red, then red flashing base, white etc. etc..), seems fixed. Dunno if battery behavior will improve on next discharge/charge cycle, I'll keep monitoring it, but I guess what they fixed is the bad charger-receiver/transmitter communication, in warm environments (which would kinda explain the randomness of the glitches)...

Damn! Im selling my Helix Rack....but now Im curious.... :D

There is a firmware (1.06) for the G10T. Should take care of the flashing glitches. Not sure will improve the battery charge lifespan, but I'm happy they quickly reacted to a evident issue. "We have determined that certain Relay® G10T wireless transmitters with v1.05 firmware may not charge optimally within warm environments. The v1.06 firmware update addresses this issue to ensure correct charging behavior, as well as improving the response of the LED to more accurately display charging status. The v1.06 update also incorporates the important safety updates from the v1.05 firmware released in March of this year."

There is a firmware (1.06) for the G10T. Should take care of the flashing glitches. Not sure will improve the battery charge lifespan, but I'm happy they quickly reacted to a evident issue. "We have determined that certain Relay® G10T wireless transmitters with v1.05 firmware may not charge optimally within warm environments. The v1.06 firmware update addresses this issue to ensure correct charging behavior, as well as improving the response of the LED to more accurately display charging status. The v1.06 update also incorporates the important safety updates from the v1.05 firmware released in March of this year."

Rotary encoder is weld on the main LCD screen PCB. I can only think of a bad repair from someone who tried to fix it at home.

Hi, I think the Volume Knob on the PC112+, it's the same knob as Helix Phones Knob. Check with the British Audio guys, they are great! https://britishaudio.com/collections/line-6-parts/products/line-6-helix-phones-knob

For those finding the tone a bit muffled, you should try the HF trim, that does allow you to control the gain just on the high frequency driver. At +6dB it's making me happy. Give it a try! ;)

Bridge height also depends on neck joint angle, which always has a tolerance. Mine is basically bottomed out. Either way, as soon as it does feel and sound right, shouldn't be an issue.

I was just wondering if Helix has all the hardware that's needed to drive a similar effect, but I have seen the Freqout board, and indeed looks all driven by a DSP and a Bios...so, I think would be all a matter to write the correct algo. I was wrong in my doubt. :)

Yes, you're right. :)

Honestly I don't know. I just posted what I've read from a L6 guy over here, or TGP, don't remember. :)

Maybe they also approach tasks by priority, doing pedals that most people wants and/or that have some "heritage". Freqout is cool, but it's something you use couple of times, in a song o two.... and that's it. Also not even sure it's doable just with DSPs...

This.

Volume on the Helix maxed out, that's the best SNR you can get, out from the Helix. Remember that knob it's a pure volume, not a gain. Doing the opposite it's "producing" more noise from both the circuits.

No. Even with all block bypassed, you have DSP bypass, aka ADA Conversion, which adds its own noise floor and stuff. HX Stomp has DSP or True Bypass.

I still believe speaker simulation is sounding muffled due the -14dB~-15dB level set by default (raw and flat are at 0dB). Imho, at that level, the drivers are barely moving, unless you crank the volume up a lot.

Measured mine; first measures are for the distance between string and wood, second measure is total neck. Final result is total minus strings. Love the neck. 1st fret; 23,82mm - 2,71mm = ~21,11mm 12th fret; 25,89mm - 2,81mm = ~23,08mm

I dont buy the mantra "L6 wont read". Saaaaame story happened with mediocre reverbs complains (that L6 then improved), with the sloppy tuner complains (that L6 then improved), with meters (that L6 then implemented) and many other things that people asked and complained about, over here...and that later L6 properly implemented or adjusted. It's their flagship product, they read and they care. ;) (I also work for a software/hardware company, and I can assure you the marketing guys are always reading everything out there on the web.)

I've got the Boss WL50, and returned after less than 2 weeks. It does sounds terrible (dirt and muddy on the highs, also tends to breakup easily), so I'm not sure it's gonna be a good replacement. This is why I'm so upset...the G10 was a so great little toy, a game changer with virtually no impact on tone and playability. I really miss it. :/

Then, if you want the most intimidating and powerful looper ever made, go for a EDP (or two, or three etc...)...:)

IIRC, a mono block of simple delay, should have 8 seconds available.