radatats

DT50 1X12 open box - $570!!!!!!!!! holy crap... http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/line-6-dt50-112-25-50w-1x12-guitar-combo-amp?condition=used#used

Well I don't think the DT's are being discontinued. The DT25 HD is still full price on other sites but discontinued on Musician's Friend. I think the problem is more likely with Musician's Friend being discontinued. They are part of Guitar Center and as noted earlier this year that company appears doomed financially... I expect a lot more deals ahead as the death spiral continues... I could be wrong... read the article for yourself... The End of Guitar Center

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don't be shy about changing cabs and mics too... Blackback with a 4038 works well... I've been falling in love with my DT25 again with these new amp models.

Hendrix would sound like Hendrix on anything he played just like SRV, Clapton, Paige, Lifeson... the magic is in the fingers,everything else is just a tool to let it out...

Yep, sounds like a new amp will solve your problems... good luck with that. Mainly just have fun with it.

stop using it and get the tubes checked/replaced. Don't risk anything more serious failing as a result of a bad tube. And unless you truly know what you are doing, keep your hands out of your amp. Tube amp voltages and currents will kill you DEAD.

You need to change set lists. Go to the set list User 1 and you will see all his patches starting with JVCleanFXonpedals 1. There are only patches in the first 4 banks of the set though...

my two cents, use the Volume pedal when you want a quick and easy way to silence your rig. Put it in front of the signal chain and it can also double up as a way to clean up your tone by reducing the signal level hitting the amp. Put it after the amp or last in the chain to use as a clean boost. Set your normal tone at say 60-70% and press down to bump up to 100%. Using the Channel Volume does the same thing but frees up an FX block if you need it for other FX. I use the Channel Volume to level volumes between amps. I set my quietest amps at 100 and lower the louder ones to match accordingly. Use the Master for overall set volume. You can use the mixer for leveling too but they say the Channel Volume is the cleanest way to do it. I think the mixer levels affect the signal hitting the next FX in the chain. Unfortunately if you are fighting the sound guy turning it up can be a losing battle as he will just keep pulling you down if that's the way he rolls... been there done that...

I may be missing what you are doing but I think I see a problem. If you just want the expression pedal to control amp channel volume you DO NOT need a volume pedal block in the chain. Just go to the controllers tab in HD Edit, select the amp, the CH VOL parameter and select Exp 1. By putting the Volume Pedal in the chain you are BOTH lowering CH VOL and lowering volume again with the pedal block!

Nice work! was that recorded with the POD? Its up on Google Play...

There are so many things that change when you switch from full amp/studio direct to pre/DT. The biggest change, and you can't do anything about it, is the output mode automatically switches from studio direct to Combo or Stack (depending on DT model) which is a huge change to the tone. You also change from the "recorded" tone to the "amp in the room" tone. As long as you use bot full and pre in their default settings they should be the same but if you change things for the full model and then select the pre, all those changes are gone. You are back to the default settings. Also in studio direct you are getting the final tone reproduced (hopefully) through studio monitors. With the DT, you are getting part of the final tone which is then being reproduced and affected by your physical speaker and cab. There is no way to just switch from full/studio to pre/DT and have it sound the same. (Nor should it as far as I am concerned). Some of the other things you can try doing before adding distortions or other effects, change the topology for the amp on the DT. The 4 different voicings have a big effect on tone. You might get what you are looking for. Try disabling the cab model or changing to a different cab/mic combination. If you want to turn the amp up without blowing everyone else out, switch to Class AB, topology 1, and Triode. You will be able to turn the amp Master higher to get a similar volume level. The other thing that we forget is speaker breakup. There is magic that happens with volume that is not all attributable to the tubes. It is the physical effect of applying power to a speaker cone and the resultant interplay with the cabinet along with the movement of air. Some of that is modeled into the full amp/cab/mic that you are hearing in studio direct. With your DT you just have to make it happen to hear it or feel it. The final thing to remember is to use the LVM if you can't turn it up. It is designed to use the full amp model characteristics to bring you closer to what you want to hear at lower volumes. Take advantage of all the amazing features that were built into this gear. I think there was an incredible amount of thought and creativity built into the whole HD/DT system. It is not supposed to be an instant reproduction of your studio direct recording tone; it is a real life, in the room amp that will do whatever you tell it to do... Its up to us to use it to its full potential. ;)

I've been running the new Shiva preamp with my DT25 and it is simply brilliant... By itself its nice but change the cab and mic and holy crap, it just gets better... add a touch of compressor, a little analog delay and reverb... wow... adding the Red Witch distortion from my Zoom MS100BT in the FX loop in front of the Shiva is pure magic.

Can't say for sure. Its not instantaneous, there is some slight lag but its certainly useable and as I mentioned there are plenty of ways with a 500 to work around it within a patch. I wouldn't want to try switching from say a clean acoustic to a heavy driven lead tone without a musical pause though... and delay tails do not carry over when changing patches but can if doing it all within the same patch.

Additionally, you can change the way the foot switches respond. You can have the bottom 4 foot switches changing patches and the top 4 turning effects on and off within each patch or you can set it to have all 8 foot switches assigned to effects like a traditional pedal board. I think you will find the HD500 much better suited to doing the kinds of things you are looking for within a single patch. For instance you can set up a dual amp patch with a foot switch to change from the clean amp to the crunch amp and assign drive, tone stack, delay and reverb to the expression pedal to move from crunch to lead all within the same patch.

All those are good to go with the HD500. You can assign multiple effects or amps to the individual foot switches. Just remember, the foot switch can only turn ON and OFF. However, you can assign up to 50 parameters covering multiple effects and amps to the EXP pedal(s) that lets you cover a wide range of options. I don't have the Firehawk so can't help you there...

Dude! I just watched that vid and seriously, you HAVE to skip to the 23 minute mark and watch from there. That was very cool to see this guy, well respected, is using a pair of 1st gen POD's for his entire rig. Straight to FOH and also through a Fryette stereo tube power amp and a pair of 1X12 cabs for stage fill only! Guarantee nobody has a clue that's what he is doing and nobody thinks its digital either... I think sometimes we hear what we think we should be hearing rather than just letting it rip and enjoying it. As many have said, once you are in the mix and cooking, those slight nuances disappear. Still, there is a complexity to the tone that comes from using a tube power section, whether its a DT or something else. That does not mean the FOH needs to be a mic'd cab, but if that's what YOU need for stage fill, it just might be the "missing" ingredient...

You can assign up to 50 parameters to the exp pedal so it can definitely do what you describe. In HD Edit, pick your effect, choose the parameter and assign it to the pedal. Set the MIN and MAX levels. Now pick the same effect, choose another parameter, assign to the same pedal and set opposite MIN and MAX... make sure you hit the SEND button in HD Edit before you touch anything physically on the unit itself. Now those settings will be loaded and ready to rock...

makes no difference what amp you use with the Variax... at least the Firehawk fully supports the Variax which is helpful. Does the Matchless have an FX loop? I'm sure you know modellers tend to work better going straight into the power section of a guitar amp if possible...

you can assign multiple effects to the same foot switch but only to turn ON and OFF. However, you can assign up to 50 different parameters to each expression pedal across multiple amp and effects blocks to effectively change "scenes". JTV owners can also assign up to 50 parameters each to the volume and tone knobs on their guitars giving a wide range of completely different combinations of amp and effects within the same patch. You can use the MIX parameter to effectively turn effects ON and OFF without using a foot switch.

use the POD HD Conversion utility to convert all your 500 tones to 500X, it works great... linked here.

don't understand that... the 500X loads all the 500 patches with ease... But otherwise I hear ya. No reason I can think of for a 500(X) user to switch to Firehawk...

This conversion utility can be used to change from pre to full and vice versa... and also to convert 300, 400, 500, X files back and forth. works well... http://line6.com/support/topic/2164-pod-hd-tone-conversion-utility/

The phase setting can be useful in a dual amp patch. Some combinations are way out of phase and cancelling each other out. Putting one of them 180 out can totally bring it to life...

My opinion, you should ALWAYS use the preamp models to build your patches for the DT. If you are not going to turn it up then use the LVM as that simply applies the power amp modeling to your tone in the DT to compensate for the lower volume. The other thing to keep in mind is topology can have a big effect on perceived volume. If your patch needs a little more drive/volume switch to topo 3 or 4 without any other changes and vice versa, 1 and 2 are quieter/cleaner. Play around with it, you don't have to stick with the default topo position... That being said, there is no absolute right or wrong way to do it. If you find a full amp model works best for a particular tone, use it...