radatats

have you actually gone into your DT using DTEdit by midi to see EXACTLY what amp model and other settings are configured in your DT? Once you do that, set your POD model exactly the same with the POD Master up all the way and see how it fares... There should be NO difference! Perhaps what you think is set there is not exactly right...

in a word, no. However, have you tried tightening the pedal tension with the supplied allen wrench? That worked for me... You could possibly set 2 amps in your patch with different gain settings and switch with a FS,,,

I found you really have to work to get your levels right all the way through the chain. There are a lot of things to consider. You want the signal coming out of the POD FX loop to be about the same strength as your guitar plugged into the amp. May have to adjust send levels etc. to get it matched. Is your amps FX loop line level? Again, play with the FX loop levels to get it right. Then going back in to your amp FX loop, you may need to change the POD from line to amp on the switch near the exp pedal. Finally, when you have it as good as it gets, you may still need to add a noise gate right after the POD FX return, esp on your amps dirty channel... try to get it where you can at least have the POD master near half or better for a decent S/N ratio into the amp. Hope that helps a bit...

when the POD is connected with L6 link and the POD amps are active the DT25 is ONLY providing the analog power section. Just forget all about the DT preamp section, it is effectively bypassed. If you turn the POD amp A channel block off, the DT will switch to its internal channel B preamp with whatever physical knob settings are currently set on the DT. The effects chain will still be active but using the DT channel B instead of the POD amp (its all digital anyway). I strongly suggest you forget using the DT amps internal preamps with the POD connected by L6 link. There is absolutely no advantage to be gained and you risk unwanted results if the knobs are not what you expected. Use the POD amps/preamps for all your patches, you will be much happier and its much easier to manage.

couple of clarifications: - the only way to do firmware updates is by midi direct to your computer. Whatever midi connection you use is up to you. I like many others, find the UNO mid-usb works well without breaking the bank. You cannot do it through or with the POD. - you CAN set up dual amp patches in your POD and use them with the DT. However, you have to work around a bit. You cannot turn off the amp in path A, but you can mute it by assigning the volume of both amps to the exp pedal and as one goes up the other goes down or some other tricks. The power section will stay synced to the topology of the amp in the A channel though, no matter what. - the transformer issue was pretty much just for certain earlier DT50s and I haven't heard of it crossing over to the DT25s... By the way, Metalchef's response was great except I would change "hours" to "weeks". lol... have fun with it! :)

while they MAY be compatible, they may also be different. apparently original 6CA7's were identical to EL-3s but today's 6CA7 version is a beam tetrode whereas the EL-34 is a pentode. Bottom line, I would not swap them out as too many other things can go wrong in that dark hole of mystery known as a DT amp... Stick with EL-34s... Did you swap out the 12AX7s first? It may just be the Phase Inverter tube... worth a shot and no biasing involved...

how do you have your inputs set? are you using input 2 as Same or something different from input 1? that will change the signal strength hitting the TD before the amp vs after the amp...

definitely but I know you will end up wishing you had the mixer from the t...

I also made a snake for 4CM using Pedal Python and included a 12ft extension cord with the guitar cables. This is for my 1X12 combo so in the bottom of the cab I fastened a power strip and both the amp and extension cord plug in there and I run the power strip to the outlet/power source. Now the POD power supply just plugs into the other end of the snake. This also keeps both units on the same power feed hopefully eliminating any possible ground loops. I have zero interference from this setup by the way... Maybe try that instead of a long DC lead...

get the L series if your wallet supports... L2t or L3t and you will never look back...

Mine has done that a couple of times and it was easily cured. Hopefully this works for you too... Shutdown and disconnect USB if hooked up. Restart while holding the 4 way nav button to the left. This will reset your POD and it should start up fine now. Once it is up, shutdown again and restart holding the 4 way nav switch to the right to recalibrate your expression pedal. You should be good to go now. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/pod/pod-hd500-hd500x/pod-hd500xhd500-pedal-calibration-r161

there is no defect here. There is only an inability to get the tone you want without working at it. The end result ALWAYS depends on your skills and abilities. Some guys just get it done... Others? Well...

how are you creating the 6db boost?

Following up on Glenn's suggestion... Here is what I ended up doing and it definitely is the first time I actually like the wah in the POD. Assign the wah to a FS to turn on and off just in case you want to. Assign Exp 1 to control the position from 0-100 Assign Exp 1 to control the Mix from 21-(55-62) Now with the pedal in the heel position there is no coloring of the sound and as I press down it does not get that harsh, tinny sound the POD wahs seem to generate. If it still has too much bite, assign the amp mid, treble and/or presence to the same pedal so they lower as the wah kicks in...

here's a trick for that... Put a Pitch Glide early in your chain, after wah, before compressors or distortion. Set it to +12 (one octave up) Assign the mix to an expression pedal sweeping from 0 to 100. Now when you play there is no effect happening but when you want the simulated feedback, press down on the pedal and its there... works better on some amp models than others but it has its uses...

Changed my order to the Elixir Strings 12050 Polyweb 10-46, DR Strings PHR-10 Pure Blues Pure Nickle 10-46, and the Slinky's. I picked these for their specific differences to compare. The Elixirs are coated, the DR are pure nickel, and the Slinkys are just regular strings. I will update with my thoughts after use...

Good to hear about the Elixirs and I will definitely try them after the others I just ordered... any recommendations between the polyweb and the nano web?

so what changed? some very helpful folks posted some audio clips showing they can use it. All of a sudden now you can too? (I hope so) You started off saying it was a POS but now its good to go... just because you heard some audio clips? do you still think its a "bee buzzing mess of an amp"? Is it still "completely unusable and sounds nothing like an 800"? My point here is its not the gear. Its the user ALL the time, EVERY time. This is not to bash you or anyone else. Its the nature of the beast. Understand that this gear will put you in the ball park but you have to hit it home. It may never exactly duplicate the particular example of an amp model that you have in your head. BUT, it will get you close and you have to go the rest of the way with tweaks and ability. Some times the tone you want to replicate will be best found with a different amp and cab altogether. Its up to YOU to find what works and it matters not what others post in audio clips. You want to sound like Slayer? Trust me, the 800 model is certainly NOT the only amp model that can get you there... Don't fall for the old trap of "if I only had that other piece of gear" syndrome... this is that other piece of gear, YOU just have to coax it out. As you see here there are plenty of folks willing to go out of their way, as am I, to help others realize thier potential and learn. Stick around and have fun. No doubt you have good things to show us too... ;)

thanks for the tip on the half rounds... I hadn't thought of that but will try them. I've been using .11s as per Sean Halley but will drop back to .10s next time... Actually I ordered the D'Addario Chromes ECG23 flat wound, 10-48, Dunlop DEK1048 pure nickel 10-46, and Ernie Ball 2221 Slinky 10-46... lets see what's what...

good answers there. Additionally, you can set up a dual amp path and use the expression pedal to morph between them by assigning the amp volumes to the pedal. One pedal can control up to 50 different parameters so as you morph you can also be controlling all your effects too. For instance changing delay feedback and reverb mix, noise gate thresholds, compressor settings, distortion pedal drive, etc... You may find that morphing from clean to dirty on the recto sounds pretty damn awesome too...

it sounds great, as I knew it would. The real question is who really gives a flying lollipop if it sounds exactly like any particular amp? The only question is does it sound good or not? Can you get the tone you want or at least close enough to be happy? There are so many things one can do with this gear and do them well I just don't get the hangups... If you absolutely have to have an 800 exactly, go buy one... Or maybe spend some time with this gear experimenting, mixing and matching cabs and mics and find the tone you really want... because you can get any tone you want. to dump this simply because you don't think the 800 is a perfect match is ridiculous...

absolutely. I use my POD HD 500 three ways. I use it through a SS power amp and PA speakers with full amp models and effects and also with my DT25 through L6 link using the preamp models and effects. I also use it with my Crate V50 tube 1X12 combo in the 4 cable method. This lets me use the effects only using the Crate clean or dirty channel or with a different patch the same setup allows me to use the POD preamps and effects straight into the Crate FX return and power section. All sound amazing. It takes a little work to get everything set up just right but its not that hard and there are plenty of threads on how to set it up and even videos in the Knowledge Base. Go for it! PS - you will also be able to power and control a JTV Variax and take it to another level altogether...

what are the exact pedals you bought and how do you have them set? It may be that the models in the POD just won't match those particular pedals. Is all your gear updated with the latest firmware?

Are you serious? I actually considered getting an L series speaker but have absolutely no need for the M20d. So if I did get one I can't get firmware updates? That is so bogus, I just took them off my list. Really hard to remain supportive of this company sometimes...

you need to go further down the list to POD HD400 Edit, not Line 6 Edit... http://line6.com/software