radatats

for some reason you will occasionally get tones for the 500 or 500X as .l6t. You can try just renaming them with the appropriate tail (h5e for 500) and see if HD Edit will load them. Do this with your HD Edit offline, disconnected from the POD, as you may get corrupted patches this way. If the patch loads, make sure you go through each tab and see that it is set up right. Save the patch to your computer and then reopen it from the computer. You should now have no issue sending it to the POD. If they won't load at all they are not compatible. Be advised that most .l6t tones will not work with 500(X) as was mentioned above. They were most likely made for a different Line 6 product.

Yes! for example you can assign amp drive, tone stack, channel volume, all to the same pedal to change together at the same time as chorus depth and mix, delay times and mix, compressor levels, reverb parameters, whatever, so effectively you have a COMPLETELY different tone or patch just by rocking the pedal or turning the knob on your JTV... a very underused feature in my estimation...

The wah will default to Exp 1, the onboard pedal and volume to Exp 2 the outboard pedal. You could change it if you want but I find it works good that way. I like to set my wah as a Bad Horsie type by assigning the position and mix to Exp 1 (mix 21 > 62). You can still use a FS if you want but you don't need one this way. I don't always use volume or wah and sometimes like to assign multiple parameters to the pedal(s) to morph between completely different tones. You can assign up to 50 separate parameters to each controller so that allows for a huge change with each pedal and also with the volume or tone knobs on your JTV. You don't need to change patches to go from clean to crunch to lead, you can do it with just the pedal or knob on your JTV. I am not so sure about putting the volume pedal in front of the amp to just clean up the tone, I find it just lowers volume in general. It will let your delays and reverb tails continue though whereas if you put it last I think it cuts them out...

This is an amp head and CANNOT be plugged into the input of another amp... connect the outputs to a speaker cab as directed in the manual. It is not a POD. Download and read the manual before you destroy the head or whatever you are trying to plug it into. http://line6.com/support/manuals/flextoneiihd

this happens to me once in a while too. you need to do a system reset and recalibrate the expression pedal. Disconnect pedal 2 first. After it is reset and calibrated you can reconnect pedal 2 and it should be good. If it acts up again try just disconnecting and reconnecting pedal 2. On the POD HD500, you *must* reset the global setup options which includes resetting the Setlist names and pedal calibration by: 1. Disconnect the USB cable connection between HD500 and host computer. 2. Power off the POD HD500. 3. Power on the POD HD500 while holding the LEFT ARROW (<) button while plugging in the power supply to the POD. If you do not do this, one of the tell-tale symptoms that may surface after a Monkey Flash Memory update is that the HD500 will be stuck in a continuous re-boot/power cycling state (you'll keep seeing the Logo and the unit keeps re-starting itself). Sometimes this may not occur, but a secondary telltale sign that a user has not performed a Global Settings reset is the USB communication between the HD500 and HD500 Edit software will be extremely slow/sluggish. ***PLEASE NOTE: Please also make sure to re-calibrate the onboard expression pedal of the HD500 after performing the Global Settings reset. Hold the down the RIGHT ARROW button on the 4 Way Nav Pad while powering the unit on, until you see the “Test Mode†screen (Pedal Cal, etc.), and then proceed with the steps below: If not already selected, use on the 4 Way Nav Pad to select “Pedal Cal,†as shown above. Press the VIEW button. Set the pedal to the minimum “heel†position, then press the A footswitch to set a value for the Duty Cycle. You’ll see the value set to “100.†Set the pedal to the maximum “toe†position, then press the B footswitch to set a value for the Duty Cycle. Again, you’ll see the value set to “100,†as in step 3. Press the C footswitch to prepare for automatic selection of the Scaled Pedal Value and move the pedal from min. to max. You should see the Scaled Pedal Values read “0†at the heel position and “255†and the toe position. If you get values other than 0 and 255, power off and repeat these steps, starting at step 1. Press the D footswitch to save the settings. You’ll be returned to the Test Mode screen and the Pedal Cal item will show a “P†to indicated that the pedal calibration is complete! Power your device off and back on again to start using it.

personally, I find it hard enough to change switch positions with any certainty on my 69 as it is... no big deal missing the right pickup mid song but trying to get a distortion turned on and missing would really suck... I even hit it by accident when playing, probably not the only that does that either... I have enough options with the foot switches.

check out Warehouse Speakers located in Paducah Kentucky. American made and very high quality with reasonable prices. You can speak to them direct on their blog page and ask what they recommend based on what tone you want. They will blow the Celestians out of the water... http://wgs4.com/ http://wgs4.com/forum/forums/questions-answers

I just used the USB connection. Frankly I was less than impressed. Much prefer POD by itself live.

yes to both...

That is so pathetic... I seriously think they would get their a$$ kicked around here. Where do you live? Have you called them out on FB?

the POD HD Tone Conversion utility program has some batch editing capabilities. Give it a whirl. Make a new folder for all the tones you want to convert and copy them into the new folder. That way if something doesn't go well you will still have all your original tones unaffected in their original folder. http://line6.com/support/topic/2164-pod-hd-tone-conversion-utility/

I am a little perplexed with this whole issue. Personally I did not notice a perceptible difference in string volume with 2.1. However, based on everything in these posts I went in to Workbench and adjusted global string volume for all but the B and top E down 4db. I have to say that I actually like it better now across the board! Chords have better clarity and the higher notes are definitely more defined. When soloing the new volumes do not seem out of whack so I am going to keep it this way. I guess it isn't something I have ever considered before since regular mags don't have that option, you just get what you get. This is another way to slay the tone dragon without adding layers of EQ to multiple patches. And if I change my mind along the way its a simple enough tweak to put back to default or fine tune further...

Digital Tube? http://line6.com/dt25/

here is the easy link to Bill's patches: http://line6.com/customtone/profile/billlorentzen

They are available for all through Workbench HD.

the studio monitor option is great for at home but not suitable for playing out or regular gigging... You didn't really define what affordable is for you... If your wallet can afford it a pair of L2t's would be awesome. At lower price points people have been happy with powered monitors. These can be failrly easy to lug around and at bigger venues you can put your main tones through the house PA and use your powered monitors as a backline or personal monitor. Of course you can also go the DT route and that works amazingly well too... Pair of studio monitors (6-8") - around $300-500 Pair of 12" powered monitors - around $500 Single L2t - around $800 DT combo - around $1000 All these options can sound amazing and each has its own attributes. You need to really define what you expect to be able to do with your rig and how much you can spend and go from there. You don't really have to have stereo sound so a single quality speaker will work and you can always add a second later. Buy the best you can afford and you will usually be happy with the result.

actually I am at work... even here I am thinking about playing and gear... lol...

I've been through a ton of gear over the years and just about everyone I know is in the same boat. Friends with magnificent rigs are still gassing for some other elusive amp or pedal to add or change. I have finally got a rig that lets me get every tone I want at least close enough for government work and I have never been happier. I still find myself looking at new pedals and thinking how could I use that only to realize that there is nothing being done there that I can't get really close to with my dream rig. The only thing I plan on adding is a FRFR stereo solution at some point. And even that is overkill. As for Meambobbo's guide, it is not gospel. He shows a lot of what is going on behind the scenes so we can have a clearer idea of how this all works together. If the manual was clearer it wouldn't be so big a deal. I do not follow his advice on EQ for instance. But his descriptions of how it works has been very helpful. Even with analog gear, if you don't know how it works together you are still behind the curve. Just having a $3000 pedal board doesn't guarantee you to be a tone god. I quit trying to duplicate anyone's exact tone decades ago. I play for me and that always seems to work best. This last firmware update put my rig together finally and it really sounds awesome. Am I a fanboy now? DILLIGAF? This works for me and that is all that matters... Getting rid of it at this point would just put me back to square one searching for some other elusive magic product that would somehow bring peace and harmony to the world... All I really need to do is play...

Absolutely love the expression pedals... you can configure up to 50 parameters to simultaneously change with the pedal... so many things you can tie to it. Use HD Edit on the computer and use the controllers page to do the serious editing. Just a PITA on the POD's tiny screen...

the "secret" as I have found it is to understand that the channel volume and master volume are chained. The channel volume feeds the master volume which feeds the outputs. The difference is the channel volume is strictly for amp leveling and the master is for global output levels. What I suggest is to set the POD Master volume to 1/2 or less. Now take your lowest volume amp model and max out the channel volume. If it is now too loud, lower the Master a bit. Now without touching the Master use the channel volume to match all your other amp models. Once you have them set, you should save them and you will have a set of level matched amps to use building patches. You will use the POD Master volume to set the actual volume for the venue or system you are playing through. This way you will find your higher gain amp models' channel volumes are not too high and you can make further adjustments with Drive and the DEP settings and even the mixer levels...

funny thing is the topology switch on the DT does not control topology! It selects the amp/cab/mic model for the channel based on what you have configured, either default from the factory or custom with DT Edit software. However, the topology setting in HD Edit actually controls the physical negative feedback loop settings in the DT power section. There is a world of difference between them. You really should just load up a few default pre models in HD Edit and play them while sampling the different topologies. Personally I love lll more than the others. I don't care that it is not the exact model the way it was built, I prefer the ragged edges it seems to give. Then again I don't play a lot of pure clean stuff...

I've never had a bad experience. All the Experts are knowledgeable, helpful and have far more patience than I do! I really do wish though that on occasion where there are serious technical questions being discussed and the answer is not available in the manuals or any other text that a Product Specialist could be brought in to provide the correct answer. It would seriously enhance product loyalty...

From the POD HD-DT Series L6 Link Connectivity Guide, pg 3-12: Outputs The BALANCED, UNBALANCED & PHONES analog outputs are still available and may be used simultaneously while a L6 LINK connection is active. The level heard from these outputs is controlled by the POD HD device’s Master Volume knob, while the L6 LINK - DT amp level is not. Edit: Previous firmware updates changed the POD Master to also change DT signal levels too. If you have the POD Master low with the DT Master high, that may be why you are not getting good results from the other outputs...

I made 5 different models, 1 for each of the 5 positions on the selector switch. Each a different guitar model and each a different mag pickup blend. The problem occurred at all switch positions. I don't see it as either a mag or piezo problem because without the blend it sounds perfect, no issues. As soon as I make the blend in Workshop though I hear the D string change... very wierd...

try rewriting the discrepancy... i don't really understand what you are trying to say...