phil_m

You can't merge Paths 1 and 2 (at least not directly). You can only merge Paths 1A and 1B or 2A and 2B. You could actually do this by using only Path 1. You could also keep paths 1A and 1B split and have 1A feed 2A and 1B feed 2B and then merge paths 2A and 2B together if you need more DSP.

Yes, putting the block on the parallel path would create parallel dry paths, and the dry path going through the FX Loop would have some latency compared to the other path - hence phasing.

What are the pedals you're connecting to? I guess I'd start troubleshooting on that end of things. Do you hear phasing when you have them bypassed?

No, it wasn't clear to me. Thanks for clearing it up. Do you have the Mix parameter at 100 in the FX Loop block?

You should still be able to use a single stereo FX Loop block unless you're using the other Send for something else (I also think you'd have to have a mono block before the FX Loop). Anyway, if you want to continue using both blocks, just turn the Dry Thru parameter on the Send block all the way down. That will solve your phasing issue.

DI's pet feature isn't a new effect... I'd wager that no one will guess what it is. It's cool and will be useful, but I don't think it's something anyone will necessarily be expecting.

It sounds like you're using separate Send and Return blocks. You just want to use one FX Loop block. The phasing you're hearing is probably because of the Dry Thru setting on the Send block, so you're creating parallel dry paths. This can be turned off, but still, there's no reason to use two blocks instead of the single FX Loop block.

There are two sets of Global Settings that affect the external footswitches. There's one in "Preferences" as well as "Footswitches". You have to make sure you have EXP/FS Tip set to Footswitch 4 as well as selecting what you want FS4 to do.

When you say it identifies as FS4, how are you seeing this play out? What's happening, exactly?

I still find the concept of a "serious" interface somewhat funny in this discussion. The fact is that a lot of session guys do their tracking in their home studios today, and they're using all sorts of interfaces to do it. Generally, the quality of interface and converters isn't the bottleneck anymore, and it really hasn't been for quite a while. The Line 6 guys released a podcast last year where they interviewed Peter DiStefano of Porno for Pyros fame, and he's made a career of doing film scores, including some very big-budget films. He's pretty much done all the guitar parts using his UX2 and POD Farm... Is that a serious interface? Maybe not, but it's still plenty capable of getting the job done.

What firmware version is the unit running?

If it's Sweetwater, they do open their stock and upgrade the firmware prior to sending out the units. So they wouldn't be being untruthful in that regard. I believe some other retailers do that as well, but I know for sure that SW does. The fact is that even if it's opened, as long as it was sold as new from an authorized dealer, you'll still be covered by the warranty.

Just install the latest version.

You wouldn’t want the light to constantly be red or red a majority of the time, but if you hit it occasionally, it’s generally nothing to worry about.

I highly doubt you're actually clipping the input... In fact, I'd almost guarantee you aren't (digital clipping will never sound mild - it will always sound horrible). If you're hearing what sounds like clipping, it's most likely somewhere in the modeling chain. There are different blocks that will exhibit clipping behavior when dealing with a hot signal, so that's probably what's happening.

Hmm... You must have seen something you weren't supposed to see. You should be able to roll back to the older firmware using Line 6 Updater.

It sounds like the tweeter isn't active. Are you sure you're in the FRFR voicing in Flat Mode?

You can also use the 1/4" Returns or Aux Ins as inputs if you need to (although they can't be sent to USB 7 or 8), and those can be set to accept line level signals (the Aux In is always set that way). Really, for most sources, there's plenty of opportunities to adjust the gain at the source. Having an input trim for instrument level input isn't something that's all that necessary, imo. The Helix is primarily a guitar processor, that's for sure. It can easily do double-duty as a "serious" interface as long as you're willing to work within its capabilities and not get too hung up on what it can't do.

Why would you need a separate delete function when controlling the looper via MIDI? As soon as you send the CC for the record function, the loop that's currently in memory will be deleted.

The whole point of recording a dry track for re-amping is so you have a replica of the original performance, unaltered, straight from the source. If it's a low signal to begin with, that's what you want to leave it at. Otherwise your re-amped track's gain structure will be different and sound different than the original performance. It doesn't matter if it was a low signal to being with. You can compensate for that in the modeling when you re-amp it.

You typically wouldn't want to do anything with input gain from a guitar or bass if you're just recording the dry signal (that's why it's called a dry signal!). If you want to adjust the gain prior to recording, then don't record the dry signal. Run it through a path and record one of the other USB inputs. As far as phantom power, that can be turned on under Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Mic In 48V Phantom Power. You can also adjust the Mic In gain in the Ins/Outs menu. So, yes, there's no problem plugging a condensor mic into the Helix. At least get your facts straight before you rant.

Chill out, man... The manual is available in Italian. You have to use the pulldown menu at the left side and select Italian. Then you just click on the link directly underneath that. Here's the Italian manual: https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3d12030591f2a526ab55/application/pdf/Helix 2.0 Owners Manual - Rev D - Italian .pdf

Can't say that I remember hearing of anyone having this particular issue. Like anything electronic, there's always a chance of bad components and weird, isolated problems with particular units. I wouldn't worry about it. Get the replacement and rock on.

If it's a warranty repair, everything, including labor costs, should be covered.

What are you saying you have to buy? Download and install the Windows editor... There is one now. https://line6.com/software/