datacommando

Hi, It would be a big help if we knew what you are wanting to achieve, that you cannot do already? USB isn’t available as a block - it is built in to the final output as 8 channels of audio. You can connect to an iPad, or iPhone via the USB out to an Apple Camera Connection Kit adapter. I have used this to method record into GarageBand on an iPad, although it appears to me that you want to do something entirely different from being able to record the fully processed stereo audio along with a dry mono DI for re-amping? Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, There was a spate of posting regarding Native and Reaper crashing in Windows 10. Infact, one solution is offered higher up this thread in the post from @inbalance99 back in January. You must have missed that? TLDR? Here’s another solution. More - Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi Duane, You didn’t mention which hardware device you’re using, but this relates to the Helix. As noted by @SaschaFranck in the post above, you need to select the first delay on the Home Screen and assign it to a Footswitch using the usual method of touching the required switch and when the dialogue appears select O.K. Now select your second delay block and touch the same footswitch that the first DDL is using, now when the dialogue appears this time use knob 3 (on Helix) where the option needs to be set to “Merge” (IIRC this is default) which allows you to add multiple effects the the same switch. The Scribble Strip above the switch should now read “Multiple2”. You can now use the customise feature to rename the switch to whatever you wish - eg: Parallel DDL. This is covered in the Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev F - Pages 50/52 - Bypass Assign Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Simple - you just need to select your Helix as audio Input, and built in as the Output device. Now you should be able to hear the Helix via you Mac’s built in speakers, but it will sound truly awful, get some decent cheap monitors. Those nice people at Apple have a support pages for this sort of stuff. https://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=search&src=support_book_topic&locale=en_GB&bookid=2ad4ecbb8e24f6cd9efcac897a233cf2&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fsupport.apple.com%2Fen-gb%2Fguide%2Fmac-help%2Fmchlp2567%2F13.0%2Fmac%2F13.0&title=macOS+User+Guide&query=Audio+midi Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, again, Now I’m really, really confused. O.K. It might be the situation that you do have a Valve Driver in almost every preset that you use, BUT in the supplied example preset your signal chain had 2 distortion blocks. The first is a “Scream 808” model followed by a “Tube Drive”. Both of these are controlled by 4 Snapshots, 1=Clean, 2=Rhythm, 3=Main, 4=Solo, and both are engaged on Snaps 2, 3 and 4, BUT on the Clean snap BOTH are OFF! The main confusion comes about because you said - “The culprit is The Tube Driver. If that is off the nasty digital distortion is gone.” Hmm … If that is the case, how come your “engineer (who has worked with some big names)” was convinced the there was an “input distortion”, even when your Clean Snapshot has no distortion blocks being used? Is he unaware what a Tube Screamer and a Chandler Tube Driver are designed to do? Did he still experience “input” issues with your Clean settings? IME distortion blocks generally create a distortion effect, a bypass switch turns them off when you don’t want to hear distortion. Is it me, or is that not obvious? I bet this doesn’t make sense to you, because it certainly doesn’t to me

Hi, Not sure if this is the sort of set up you're trying for, but here's a video using the Aeros, BeatBuddy and a Helix rack. See if it helps.

Hi, Read through, study and try all the possible options suggested in this thread. If you have no success, contact Customer Support- the more they know about these issues, the more chance of getting a proper permanent fix. Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: You mention a “new” Mac Mini - do I understand from that statement you have “migrated” to a new machine? If so you may have to simply uninstall and reinstall Native on the new computer. IIRC there’s an issue with the Mac migration because the Authorisation is associated/tied to the hard drive. It’s been mentioned in these threads previously, but I cannot find the link at the moment. Update: link: more,

Hi, If you’re wanting to experience your Helix without colouring the sound, playing it into the front of a cheap Fender is not ideal, as you are adding that amp and cab into the equation. As suggested by other contributors, if you want to run into the front of the amp avoid using any cabinet blocks. I guess that your Fender cannot run 4CM, or you would be doing that? You say that you have a preference for the sound you hear from Shure buds, then a Studio Monitor system might be a better option allowing you the full range of tone from the Helix. The thing about monitors is they can be outrageously expensive items and the prices you see are usually for a single speaker - ouch. Here’s something that surprised me. I recently had one of my workhorse 8” Tannoys pack up, only to find that my backup 5” near fields had also decided to throw the towel in. Horror! Needing a quick replacement to keep running until the other stuff was fixed, I discovered these which I ordered from Amazon late afternoon, and was back up and running the next morning. I wasn’t expecting anything to shout about with these being super cheap, but … Yikes, these things actually do the job better than my old ESI nEar 05s, and - damn they are loud. I’m not a great fan of Uli Behringer as a human being, but at this price these are definitely worth investigating. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Studio-Inches-Powered-Monitors/dp/B010Q6QY16/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2G38WTN1BMIW7&keywords=Behringer+USB50+MONITORS&qid=1677239549&sprefix=behringer+usb50+monitors+%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-3 This is only a suggestion for a low price solution, you will want to check out the the brands which are available - only you can decide. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Without an example preset that exhibits this “distortion” on the Simple Delay, it difficult to suggest a cause or solution. You are correct about the Vintage Delay, which is susceptible to this, due to the nature of the technology being modelled. Low sample rates and bit depth (8, or 12bit) could easily drive these early DDLs into breakup with the staircase shape of the resulting waveform being very choppy. I still have an almost 40 year old Ibanez DM1000 with an LED display marked “Headroom” to allow the input gain to be monitored, and along with the compressor/expander circuit and pre-/de-emphasis on the delay can make it reasonably quiet for an 8bit, 8kHz unit. In the Line 6 Vintage Delay there is a Headroom option which serves a similar purpose, although this is not available in the Simple Delay, so I’m unsure what might be causing that without having a preset to check. Hope this helps makes sense.

Huh? Really? Now I’m really confused. Can you please clarify? You original post stated that - “I need help elimitating input distortion on the Helix. It happens on all my guitars and on almost all patches. Was in the studio last week and it was the first thing the engineer said.” @brue58ski asked, “assuming you have tested it with nothing in the path”, and @PierM asked “Is the input clipping?”. There was no really clear response to those comments, other than, “The engineer said it was input distortion.” I checked out you example preset and didn’t encounter any unexpected distortion on the input, other than those blocks you had loaded into the preset signal path. Just so you understand my confusion about this issue. Again, in you original post, you specifically stated:- “It happens on all my guitars and on almost all patches.”, but your latest post states:- “The culprit is The Tube Driver. If that is off the nasty digital distortion is gone.” Yeah, O.K., but from that comment it would appear that you have a Valve Driver distortion bock in almost all your patches? I’m surprised that throughout this thread we have all been chasing an “input distortion”, as mentioned by your studio engineer, although now it’s appears not to be a mysterious input problem, but in fact, a regular distortion block. Surprised your engineer didn’t spot that one! Ye gods, I despair.

Calm down and stop being so sensitive - we all have real, and quite often complex, lives away from this stuff. Simple solution for when you “know” that you have already asked a particular question, click on your Avatar/Icon beside your post, or in the top right of this page (from the drop down menu you can navigate to your profile). Once you get into your profile page you can hit the button bearing the legend “See my activity” - this should reveal every post you have ever made, or contributed to. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Well, there is this thing called “the Internet”, and it has a searching thing named “Google”. I just wondered what would happen if I typed “amp channel switching with helix lt” into it - an waddayano! Yep, there you were asking the same thing back in September 2022. It’s a kinda magic!

Try checking the results from this thread from last time you asked this exact same question. - Jeeziz H … I will try to avoid the verbal abuse, but … hey! Hope this helps/makes sense. It’s like deja vu all over again!

Hi, Not sure if you realise that you are responding to a thread that went to sleep 4 years back. Hi guys, The post from @Matthieu-Ridolfo was a reply to a four year old “dead thread”, but your info is still valid. :-0

Hi, I'm not entirely sure that I understand exactly what you are asking here? For me the simple answer is, I have owned my Helix floor since 2015 used it almost daily and updated the firmware on every occasion. The hardware hasn't changed, only the software that runs inside it, which just keeps getting better and better. If you're asking for advice on whether you should buy another Helix, then the only person who can decide that is you! Here's a fairly easy way to evaluate if you want to know how the Helix is sounding currently - download the Helix Native plugin and try it out for 15 days free. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Yeah, but if it’s a commercial IR (sold, not free) then you are not allowed to pass it along to someone else, but it would have been nice to know what should have been there. Anyhow, unless your IR files for every preset are screwed up somehow, it still remains that there doesn’t appear to be any perceptible input distortion occurring in your example .hlx file. IIRC, Mr. Timmons uses a LoneStar loaded with Celestion v30s on his clean stuff. As I didn’t know what your IR should have been I simply used whatever happened to be in that same slot when I loaded your preset, it was possibly a 4x12 Greenback, but hey, I was just looking out for any obvious and unexpected distortion. Using your “Clean” snapshot, thus avoiding any dirt added from the drive pedals in the other snapshots, would have shown any deficiencies on the input. In fact, I found it to be exactly as expected with my Strat single coils. Finding that to be the situation, I didn’t even bother to plug in my JTV-59 to check the Variax input, - probably unnecessary. The result of this, without hearing what you (and your engineer) can hear, leads me to believe there is some other issue with your hardware. I have been running my Helix floor directly into Logic Pro almost everyday since late 2015 and have absolutely no extraneous noise problems, input, output, whatever. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, If the "PROMISES.hlx" preset file that you supplied is an example of one of your presets that exhibits this "input distortion on the Helix", I wouldn't bother looking at the signal chain. I just loaded it into my Helix floor, and apart from a missing IR, I cannot find any issue with any unwanted or unexpected distortion occurring while going through the four Snapshots in the patch. If, as noted by @brue58ski , this is also happening with your Variax over ethercon, then I'm with him and @PierM on this one - the problem is somewhere else. That may require a bench check by a technician. If you have an audio clip that demonstrates the "distortion" it may help to narrow down any obvious causes, because I cannot find one in the example preset. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Technically, yes, although there is only one dedicated guitar input with a switchable impedance pad. To add a second guitar you could use one of the Send/Return jack sockets. Best solution for using a second guitar so you can still use the FX Loops (Send/Returns) is to use an cheapo A/B Y switch as in this example: https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Belcat-ABS-520-Dual-Input-A-B-Box-True-Bypass/FY4?_gl=1*1sux4q3*_ga*OTE0MjUxMTAzLjE2NzY2NDk4Nzc.*_up*MQ.. Hope this helps/makes sense. It may be worth having a read through this: https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f18374611d5dffd3a45/application/pdf/Helix LT 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev D - English .pdf

Hi, It wasn't immediately obvious to me that you were using the XR18 as an audio interface for recording. Anyhow, instead of overthinking it - the easiest way to do this would be to set up a parallel path without any effects blocks along with your regular signal path as normal. Have the final effects output going panned to the 1/4' left and the dry panned to the 1/4" right output only. See the HX Stomp 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev D - English - Page 18 - Serial vs. Parallel Routing for details. https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a418962611d636e7c51b/application/pdf/HX Stomp 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev D - English .pdf That should do it. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, You did not miss anything. Those Factory Preset lists are quite simply basic examples of what can be produced using the software. Most people complain that the supplied presets are not vey good and replace them with their own creations. The whole point of having so many Setlists and Preset slots is so you can arrange them to suit whatever you want. If you wish to create groups of “categories”, you should do it yourself. Name the setlists and presets to whatever you want. I recommend that you check out the Helix Native Pilot Guide 3.50 - Page 22 > Helix Native Presets. Find the guide by clicking on the ? icon in the lower left of the Native GUI window and select it from the pop-up menu. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Simple enough if you split the guitar input signal before any of the mono effects, amp and cab used for your processed signal. You could even use a send block to output the dry signal directly out of the 1/4” jack sockets. Use something that uses very little DSP (Gain block) to create the split. Pan the signal at the split point to be 100% left and 100% right. At the mixer block at the end of the chain keep the signals panned L&R. Essentially it’s a variation of what is happening in this video (below). Play around with the thing until you have the processed audio fully left and the dry audio on the right. Although, I cannot see why you would want to go to all this trouble to record like this when the facility to record fully produced guitar signal and the totally dry guitar tone direct to your DAW via USB is already freely available in your Stomp. For what you want to do you will need another audio interface and be putting your signal through another round of AD/DA conversion and possibly be susceptible to a more noisy signal. Whatever - Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Just a guess, but select the point where the Path B signal returns to the Path A. It’s actually a mixer block and you should check that (page 2) the option to invert the polarity of Path B is set to Normal. See the HX Effects 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev C - English - Page 38 - Mixer Settings > Page 2 > Knob 2 > B Polar https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a411710a6112a67116f0b/application/pdf/HX Effects 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev C - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I think you really need to post an example preset that demonstrates this "nasty distorted top end" that is proving so difficult to remove. I'm not sure what you are doing for this to happen, but IME if something is so far wide of the mark in the sound you want to achieve, then something is badly wrong in your set up. It's really easy to FUBAR tone if you are setting things incorrectly. It helps to know exactly what you are trying to do, so far all we know is you have a HX Stomp producing "nasty distorted top end" , but have no idea what you are playing into the Stomp and how you are monitoring the stuff coming out. Too many variables, too little information. Help us to help you. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, A little search would have revealed this:- Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, You have around here long enough to realise that when weird stuff starts to happen, the general response is to perform a factory reset, and if that doesn’t fix the issue, re-install the latest firmware. Your HX Effects is essentially a computer and the firmware is required to make it run correctly. If there is a glitch - reset and reload. If it should continue have problems after that, then you really need a Line 6 technician to help fix it. Hope this helps/makes sense. Check this thread: