silverhead

My main suggestion is that if your HD500 is new (still under warranty) you should not open the HD500 to clean the interior. That will void your warranty. For the exterior I use a vacuum cleaner with brush attachment occasionally to remove dust. For the knobs, simply rotate them vigorously back and forth through their full range many times. This should clear any dust/dirt from the shafts (do this prior to vacuuming). For the switches - they should not be problematic on a new HD500 after only five months. If your HD500 is still under warranty and the switches are failing you should take it to a Line 6 service center. If it is not new I would take it in for servicing anyway, and pay for it. http://line6.com/service_centers/

Yes. To do this you must create a dual-path preset with no Amp or FX appearing before the path split. Here is a sample preset that I posted in Customtone some time ago, designed for an acoustic guitar and a mic/vocal: http://line6.com/customtone/tone/215659 Of course you will need to customize the Inputs, the Amp/FX selection in the paths, and perhaps the Mixer panning. The important part is to NOT put anything before or after the path split. This will keep the processing of your 2 inputs completely separate and independent. Please come back with more questions if this doesn't help you do what you want.

That's true at the output stage - the HD500 has two L/R outputs (1/4" and XLR) but both carry the same (i.e. a single) stereo signal. However, internally the HD500 has the ability to carry and independently process two stereo paths - Path A and Path B. These can be, but are not necessarily, mapped directly to Input 1 and Input 2. These are summed into a single stereo output at the final stage.

Yes, I remember that post of yours in the old forum. Here it is: http://line6.com/support/message/425684#425684 Very useful info - thanks for sharing.

There is really just one significant difference: the L3t has 2x10" speakers while the L2t has one. They both have the same high frequency speaker/transducer. Yes, the L2/3t have the side panel 2-Channel mixer while the L2/3m do not.

Here is some info from the X3 Advanced Guide: MIDI Ch (POD X3 Live & POD X3 Pro only) – choose from MIDI Channel 1-16, or select Omni to have POD X3 Live & Pro respond to all MIDI channels, while transmitting on Channel 1. The MIDI channel chosen from the display user interface will be used as the Channel for Tone 1. Tone 2 will use the next MIDI Channel. When program change messages 0-127 are received, POD X3 Live & Pro will recall User Presets 01A-32D, and will transmit those same program changes as presets are selected from the POD X3 Live & Pro hardware. It also echoes all program change messages it receives, so it can be connected “thru†to another MIDI device.

Really useful stuff, pfsmith0. Thanks for sharing this.

I've never really heard any complaints about the X3L converters versus any competitor, so I think you would find them good.

HD500 Edit provides what you want, and much more. The HD500 needs to be connected to your computer but it's worth it when you know you want an editing session more than a playing session. There is no computer-based editor for the M-series devices.

Can you define what you mean by 'good'? They're good in my experience - but you might not think so depending on how you would measure it.

First off, let me say that I also would LOVE for this device to be upgraded so that it is a useful audio interface. I agree with you, antonioctd, that right now it is not. So I am behind the spirit of your thread (but not the title) and would love to see the update that addresses the latency. But just a couple of comments .... The USB port is useful to record to a USB storage device, in addtion to the SD card capability. So it is not useless - and it is also useful for the initial audio streaming of a recording to your DAW (as advertised). The problem lies in using the M20d as a general audio interface, where low latency is required for overdubbing and adding more tracks. ASIO4ALL is not a compliant ASIO driver, and I hope Line 6 never designs non-compliant ASIO interfaces.

I use D'Addario 10-46. I've also used Elixir but I keep coming back to the d'ads. I've also tried 9s and 11s - too light and heavy respectively for my taste.

Personally I think there are many reasons that, together, mean that the HD500 Looper is never likely to be a useful loop station to support live play at gigs. Loop length (max. 48 secs) is just one of them. The lack of loop saving/storing so that you can switch loop 'patches' is another. Also the navigation from Looper Mode (to start/stop the loop) to Performance Mode (to switch presets) involves too many footstomps to be practical for keeping tempo during live play. If you're looking for a Loop Station I think you will need to get a device that's designed for that purpose. The HD500 is designed as an Amp/FX Modeler. As a jamming convenience it includes a simple looper to help you practice leads over a relatively short chord sequences. But it definitely does not, and likely never will, compete with a Loop Station device that is designed for robust use during live performances. ... just my opinion....

No - unfortunately the M20d can't be used to overdub new tracks mixed in with old. The RECORD function creates a whole new recording of all channels; inactive channels result in an empty WAV file. The latency in the M20d (the need to synchronize as you describe it) is why the M20d is not a good audio interface for recording. It's designed to record a dry signal for all active channels, plus the stereo mix output. The intention is that you then import all these dry signals into your DAW and do the post-processing using DAW plugins.

They are definitely 10s (at least the high E). I'm not exactly sure about the guage of the thicker strings but I expect they are standard 10-46 as you suggest.

Are your speakers connected to your computer or to the HD400 outputs? It should be the latter. If they are connected to your computer and you are hearing the playback from them then your Reaper audio settings are incorrect, and that could certainly explain things. Make sure Reaper is using the HD400 and its ASIO driver (not ASIO4ALL).

I believe the 'T' is for Tower (typically mounted vertically on top of an L3s).

You will get more reliable performance with the digital AES/EBU cable. Standard analog XLR cables have been known to work OK, but some have reported problems. Line 6 recommends the AES/EBU.

I much prefer using Reaper rather than Audacity. Connect your HD400 via usb to your computer, then launch Reaper. In Reaper, configure the Audio settings to use the HD400 and its ASIO driver as the audio device. Use Studio output mode on the HD400. When arming a track in Reaper for recording, select the desired HD400 input source (L, R, or Stereo Mix). Turn Reaper's Record Monitoring function OFF and use the HD400 headphones/outputs to monitor while you are recording. This presumes you have already downloaded and installed the HD400 driver (different from the firmware). Try this out and let us know how it goes.

... and you need to specify the X3's ASIO driver in the audio controls of Reaper.

Perhaps the four-cable method of connecting your amp and HD500 is what you want: http://line6.com/support/docs/DOC-2504 I think this will let you do what you want by using an HD500 preset with no amp, some FX placed before the HD500 FX Loop, and some after.

You can't directly assign specific FX to specific outputs. Panning may be helpful, as may the HD500 FX Loop - can't say without more specifics, but give it a try.

Your device may simply be faulty. My FBV MKii worked flawlessy with my HD Pro right out of the box - no configuration to either device required. If you bought it new I would return it for replacement. I'm assuming you've confirmed that it's not a faulty cable.

Your original post was quite broad - you asked several general questions. Now it seems you might be having a specific problem. What exactly can't you 'fix'?. Let's take one thing at a time - describe a specific problem you are having.

If it's just the sweaty-finger thing I would simply wrap some transparent tape with a stickier surface around the knobs.