rd2rk

I have the original HR FRFR112. My bass is passive, and the default settings on any of the AMP/CAB models are just fine, requiring just a bit of compression to accommodate my heavy-handed style of playing. Attach an example of a preset that causes the "overcooked" sound that you're hearing.

AFAIK, DI boxes are designed to BLOCK phantom power from the board to the connected gear: https://gearspace.com/board/audio-student-engineering-production-question-zone/929317-di-measure-protection-phantom-power.html

There is no way to simply change Banks using MIDI, and the person who said his MC3 could do it - @WillemK - never came back to explain how, so I don't think he actually understood the problem. You can use a dual FS set to Preset Bank Up on one button and Channel A/B Select on the other for a double-tap workaround, but since there's no Preset Bank Down...

Global Settings>Footswitches>FS3=TAP/TUNER In CommandCenter set a FS to SNAPSHOT. The DEFAULT settings cycle 1-2-3-1-2-3. In CommandCenter set a FS to LOOPER.

Attach the preset in question and I'll have a look at it. You may be right, but without context I couldn't begin to try to duplicate the problem.

How would it know that you don't want to go to Snapshot Mode? A Global Setting? Maybe you only want that SOMETIMES? A per preset setting? Per Snapshot? Thing is, if you hang around here (or any gear forum) long enough you realize that everybody has something they think it's crazy that the device they bought doesn't do by default. Nothing does everything that everybody wants it to do. That's life! Time to start saving for the gadget that does more of what you want (need?) it to do. FWIW - my Helix Floor does everything I want/need, and more. Just sayin'... sounds GREAT too!

On Helix, LT or in 8 switch Stomp Mode on the Floor, that is the default behavior. Unfortunately, on the HX Stomp, it doesn't work that way, and I don't see any way to force that behavior.

I'm not sure I understand everything that you are asking, but here goes: 1) First, the FX Loop should be set to INSTRUMENT Level in Global settings. Second, IMO, dirt pedals don't sound good when used in FX Loops. By the time the guitar signal hits the pedal it has already undergone two digital conversions AD at Helix Input and DA at FX Loop SEND, then another AD returning to the main signal chain and another DA when exiting Helix to the power amp/speaker. Add another complete DA/AD conversion if there's a second FX Loop involved. Something gets lost in translation when using dirt pedals. Also, there's a small amount of noise in the FX Loops which is amplified by the dirt pedal. It's not much, but all things considered, your dirt pedals are better off placed between your guitar and the Helix Input. Someone is bound to jump in here and say "It sounds fine to me!" and all I can say is try both methods and judge for yourself. Note that placing any pedal between guitar and Helix that's not TRUE BYPASS will load the guitar's pickups to the pedal's Input (usually 1M) and negate the benefit of the Auto Impedance function of your Helix. This only matters if you're using Helix FX that are other than 1M, such as certain Fuzzes. You can get a pdf which shows the impedances (and much more) of Helix FX here (THANKS to @PerSfor this excellent resource!): https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3ye2g1okvx18ypsww746w/Line6-Helix-Model-and-DSP-Summary-3.80.pdf?rlkey=8ygh0iqax8ewds0i3yn0nxc86&e=1&dl=0 2) If you're asking about switching between your amp's preamp section in 4cm and bypassing it to use Helix Amp Sims, place the FX Loop Block next to the Helix Amp Sim in the signal chain. Assign both to the same FS and SAVE the preset with one ON and the other OFF. Each press of the FS will bypass one or the other.

If it's still under warranty, contact support. If not, my GUESS would be either an internal cable came loose, or the switch is bad. You could try opening it up and checking the connections.

Go to The Gear Page>Digital and Modeling Gear. Search for posts by Digital Igloo. He is THE BOSS (aka Eric Klein - Chief Product Design Architect). He has repeatedly said "Not this year. Probably not next year either." That's the best you're going to get on the subject. Buy what you want now. You might not be here tomorrow.

When digital stuff gets wonky for no apparent reason, perform a factory reset. Don't forget to back up first!

The standard 2 button FS controls two functions on one amp. The LT, using MIDI (with the splitter cable I linked) can control every available function on two amps simultaneously. My standard presets, in STOMP MODE, switch Channels and toggle BOOST, both FX and the NG. In PRESET MODE I can select any of the 12 Channels. The 2 button FS can select BANK + 1 other function OR Channel A/B + 1 other function OR BOTH and NO other functions. You can assign Expression Pedals to control any of the AMP parameters as well as any of the "DEEP" FX parameters. EX: Spare an FX Block on the LT by assigning an Exp Pedal to the Cat's VOLUME parameter; assign an Exp Pedal to FEEDBACK on a DELAY and go from slapback to infinite repeats. You can also control Channel Level and select cabs and mics on the XLR Out. Since the Channel Level controls the level of the XLR Out, you could use the VOLUME (CC#7) combined with the Channel Volume (CC#17) to auto-level the differences between Preset Levels. You can change amps or FX within a preset or in MANUAL MODE, including pre/post position. There's more (RTM!), and I'm hoping for direct CC control (vs single parameter control via exp pedal) of the "DEEP" FX parameters in a future update.

The CX 100 has standard MIDI. The 60 requires a MIDI Host - another widget to deal with. You don't think you need MIDI now, but you'll thank me later. The LT has the MIDI capability needed for full control of your amps. I have the full Helix Floor and the MIDI control is great. The only issue is that the CX does not have a MIDI THRU port, so you'll need a splitter. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-PIN-MIDI-Splitter/dp/B093RGSV3T/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Z1ARHJ8W3RUY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cbQ5widK7mOzeryZYuwDxIgLcvrArPQVOtvBEvEJ1tSd6e_sv0ZxxE9rRxLYp6mWDbXg9GP6LCV0V3U-qnP7ZFbWN4WR68qJ-V6LRipjPuwEOff3_wPxReCfc6usQgGZWVeAJN1l2aVr96fnFGKjEYYQs5Zc-qsp2LchBFba7iR1Tiz00ayYBfBAdmDnq8Ee4EAEFUuxsJo8VqwhjFgMmmncKJRJfCHRpePtg_pF1lIwIC8zFDqHvl2vfdSWTdl_vFwnP3upanEm6nYzrjxaxrC59uMWq6zdtFPhpvFiv5tgn6DMj7PElzMIyNkk-3_rdSwSnCWIogopOV7MSh3wohbTW47Eg54Jbl963bFOk_I.GYWsqP8Ea_j2zrzuYGAwfuC4gbbrR17M4pH4AgVwM8w&dib_tag=se&keywords=midi+splitter&qid=1740416029&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=midi+splitter%2Cmi%2C153&sr=1-2 These simple splitter cables are not suitable for complex MIDI configurations due to a variety of issues but are perfect for this simple application. One of these and two standard MIDI cables of sufficient length for your specific needs and you're good to go!

Place the Return Block last in the signal chain, just before the Output Block. For the HXS/HXSXL, since FX Blocks are more limited, if you're not using the FX Loops (nothing is free!), set the RETURN TYPE to AUX and connect the Felix to the L/Mono Return. Yeah, the PC112+ has only one speaker, so...

That does appear to be the way that it works. The fix (I have a Helix) is to connect the Felix to a Return and place the Return right before the Output. If you can do something similar with your QC you should be good. Otherwise you'll need to use a mixer.