Rewolf48

Obviously I don't know, not being an L6 developer or beta tester, but I am assuming that StageSource Speaker Mode is saved within a Helix Patch, and that requires communication from the L6 downstream device back up to the source device. So I guess that Yes it is possible. I could be wrong however if the Helix controls allow you to Set the StageSource mode or just assumes PA/Reference and it is up to you to disable the Speaker Block if using Electric Guitar mode. None of us know anything really do we?

Open them up and look for the shiny solder vs the dull solder ;) [or don't touch anything!]

I got Win 8 on a small laptop with touch screen to use to run VSTi at rehearsal and the first first version was horrible; it is ok after 8.1 update with customisation to not show the metro start screen, but the original version was a UI and working nightmare. To give you an idea of what was wrong with it - every little thing tried to be an "App" which mean that it went full screen and lost all windows controls, so you couldn't have two things open and visible at the same time. Even the calculator had to be full screen which meant huge buttons and a display that can be seen 10 yards away but you couldn't see the list of numbers you were trying to add up because they were in the other Application that was hidden behind the kindergarten calculator. And how did you close one of these apps? I eventually discovered that you cycled through all open apps by swiping from the left of screen and when you finally got back to the one you wanted to close when half way across you had to drag it down and off the screen. Never mind the "windows update" process where it would take half an hour or more during shutdown [windows update in progress, please do not switch off this computer] to progress from 28% to 29%! I quite like it now, but if I hadn't really needed a laptop at that time it would have gone back as "unfit for purpose" or "not as described" (UK trading regulations)

The other option for isolation would be "isolation pads" as used for speakers everywhere especial studios and audiophiles. It just lift the speaker off the floor and isolates it; something like this: http://www.foambymail.com/MIW/monitor-isolation-wedge.html Or the old favourite a layer or two of carpet cut to size Also called a platform when used for guitar cabs - this video gives you some idea of the effect (and other cheap idea): http://pickroar.com/953/home-depot-amp-riser/

That is correct - MIDI switch assignments are patch specific If you plan to be doing this really early on, you could set them in a "base patch" that you copy when building your real patches, but there is no other short cut

Perhaps I should have been in this thread rather than starting a new one on the StageXXX forum. L2T or L3T or M... For those who haven't seen my thread I have JTV 69 + HD500 and a Yamaha Motif, all of which get can used in the same set. Sometimes we go all acoustic and I swap the JTV for a Yamaha APX 'cause the JTV looks wrong - as an Acoustic Band we would have 2 vocals, 2 acoustic guitars, bass and mic on Cajon. Getting rid of the secondhand plastic case PA speakers and planning on StageSource, but undecided as to which one. DT is out as it probably won't do the acoustic or the keyboard very well. I think I need the T to mix a keyboard or two in - the M has L6 Link and a single input (which I assume I can use at the same time), so that covers HD500 + a single keyboard, and there is also the option of Keyboard into HD500 FX Loop which I currently use, but the T gives that bit more flexibility and ability to EQ. And it is only £70 more. The question is does an L2T cover the low end well enough, or do I need the extra speaker and power of the L3T to cover the low end of the keyboard properly (and perhaps as an extra scenario the whole band including bass player being mixed in via a small mixer for acoustic sets) at the cost of extra money, size and weight?

The Variax already do this with each string being modelled individually, and it works quite nicely within the restrictions of it being an electric body and the way an electric is playing being different to the way an acoustic is played. When I say modelled we are talking about a combination of envelope, impulse response, eq and other magic on the signal from the pickup in the same way that an HD models an Amp rather than replacement with samples. The old Variax Acoustic 700 however is an Acoustic style body with extra Acoustic models (over JTV) and doesn't have this problem quite as much. Just wish I could find one at a reasonable price, but most people are asking £500 or more for a Variax Acoustic - the other guitarist in the band wants one too, and we can't get away visually with a JTV 69 at Acoustic gigs.

Is everybody that owns StageSource speakers in the UK based in the north of England?! :) So it will be quite loud then... as I understand it 12 o'clock on the speaker is default for L6 Link control, and the HD500 Master starts at 7, and you are only going up to 11. I currently have to roll off the low end anyway because my current speakers get muddy quite easily (especially when placed on their sides as monitors), so taking a bit of the low end off isn't a problem - do you use the Cab model cut, and EQ or just the Amp bass control? Another little question of you don't mind... if the HD500 master is set to 10 o'clock (about 3/10), then the level coming out of the direct outs will be very low - even when full up I was told that the signal level on the XLRs was low, so how do you feed out to FoH? I know that I am talking myself into a L3t - for the better handling of the lower end and because it has a mixer so it will be easier to plug the keyboards into. Just waiting now for a cheque to clear - unfortunately it is made out in USD from a US Bank and may take up to a month before my UK account gets credited.

Line 6 have an Acoustic Guitar mode with modelled body on the mixer built into the L2t and L3t speakers

After a bit of investigation at sites like http://www.vintage-radio.net/ I have found that the UK product most liked is Servisol Super 10, and also that for me at least it is easiest to get at the local Maplin store for £4.99. DeOxit is rated a tiny little bit higher, but not considered worth paying £20 for (fine if you you can borrow a can from work though) They have a mixed view of WD40 - normally you don't ever let if go near electronics, but sometimes with a really dirty switch WD40 will remove the stubborn muck, and then you use Servisol to get rid of the WD40 In all cases use with care and (especially with kit that includes valves) never, ever switch it on until the flammable solvent has completely dissipated!

Thanks for the offers - I'm south of Birmingham, so Yorkshire (even South Yorkshire) is possibly a little bit far. Can you give me a rough location quadcabbie (PM if you don't want to reveal your location publicly), or if there is anybody else a bit closer to my region? I have read that the L2 would compress the low end a bit at louder volumes (from those playing Metal with dropped tunings - which is not really my style) and similarly that you need L3 to get a really good Grand Piano or Church Organ sound as it splits the low end load between the two speakers (250Hz?). Which is what I am concerned about, but at what sort of volume? I haven't taken my current speakers (200+50W) beyond 70% but that means nothing without knowing how hot the input signal was or how efficient the speakers are, or how the speaker is positioned. It sounds as if musically I want the L3t but only if I can live with the size and weight, which can be best assessed by seeing one first hand. One definite - I am not getting a Sub - with keyboards and guitar my rig is big enough already!

The time has finally come to upgrade my second hand plastic PA speakers to something that will actually sound really good and even fool the "real guitar amp" people. With a JTV and HD500 and after a lot of online research it has come back to StageSource just ahead of Yamaha DSR; Atomic CLR might be nice but not really easy to get in the UK and is a bit over my justifiable budget. If it was just me playing the JTV and HD500 then L2M is obvious - I wouldn't need the mixer and guitar doesn't need the extended range that a L3 offers.... except that I play keyboards as well (Yamaha Motif XF is the primary board) and if I am going to spend good money then I don't want to short change myself by not covering the Keyboard range as well as Guitar with the same speaker. The use is primarily for backline covering both guitar and keys with personal monitoring should we get to bigger stages - at this point in time I am thinking single speaker, but the question is which StageSource to get? Band is live drummer, but sensible volume on-stage volume, so I want really good quality sound at a range of volumes. I don't have anywhere near to try them (no local stores have stock of anything except bottom-end stuff), so it is all based on internet opinions :unsure: [you can see why I am confused!] Is it worth spending the extra 16% to upgrade from an L2M (£462) to an L2T (£535) or the marginally more expensive L3M (£542), a L3T (£614) is also just about possible - after all that is a mixer for only £70. Or (heresy I know on the L6 forum) should I consider the QSC K10 (£579) or higher end Yamaha DSR112 (£694), or perhaps go lower end with DXR10 (£434). Any advice welcome...

Sometimes you pay extra for product quality... and sometimes you just pay extra for a name. I am happy to do the former but don't like doing the latter. I wasn't suggesting squirting in the cheapest gunk, and WD40 doesn't go anywhere near electronics. I suspect that DeOxit is a US distribution only product so somebody is charging a premium for it in the UK.

But only one chain, so you would have to use the pedals own switches to turn them on and off individually - the HD can only control the on or off of the whole chain. Of course you also have the option (especially with Wah and Distortion) of placing them before the HD500

How much! 5oz spray can for £27.50 (over $40 US) on Amazon http://www.amazon.co.uk/Caig-DeOxit-Contact-Cleaner-Spray/dp/B00A2365BI Is it really that much better than this highly rated equivalent for only £7.19? http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KHE1D0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2

I thought that effect was stereo, but with one side straight and the other effected which is why some people who took a single XLR didn't think it was working? In which case just place it after the amp

sapca (OP) actually said that he controls the M20d, so I don't think it will be a problem in this case ;)

The HD500 is not easy - even knowing which effects are stereo or mono is not obvious and get it wrong and your carefully crafted stereo wide vanishes for some unknown reason, or you get some weird change in sound. This link for those who don't know it exists is a reference as to which effects are which in the mono/stereo range (it is not always obvious): http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/pod/pod-hd/stereomono-fx-list-for-pod-hd-r567

Don't forget US prices are Tax Exclusive, UK are Tax Inclusive, so the UK equivalent including 20% VAT is £126.56 * 1.2 = £151.87 Amazon UK gets you the version 2 at £225 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alto-Truesonic-TS112A-active-speaker/dp/B005FUWTJU But that is still quite a difference. I wonder if the really cheap price is end of line stock of version 1?

I use a Roland EV-5 because I had 2 from before - they have a TRS connector and a knob for adjusting minimum level that is useful with keyboards... but I have had no problems with it and the HD500 if the minimum level is set to zero. IF the minimum level is above 0 then the HD500 doesn't read it. Not saying it is the greatest pedal around, but I only use it for relative volume level with the min and max set on the HD.

If you have two side by side switches set for one per FX, e.g. 5 and 6 (in 5-8 mode obviously) then you can switch both FX on and off individually, but also because the switches are so close together it is really easy to hit both switches together and get the toggle effect...

What hughanico said - turn down the hardware monitoring level to 0. I have done this before to test Impulse Responses and discovered that in headphones with the free RedWirez IRs that there is little difference to .the same selection of HD Cab + mic; unless you layer 3 or more when it sounds huge; except that if you then put that into backline FRFR then the effect is lost and you might as well have stuck with the HD Cabs.

Get a second expression pedal so that you can leave Exp 1 dedicated to an effect such as pitch glide and Exp dedicated to volume, then they are both active all the time and you don't need the Toe Switch - I would keep FS2 turning the effect on and off though

Not wishing to go through all this again, especially if you have already read about it, but post memabobbo's efforts there have been a lot of discussion and discovery about the effect of Resonance, Thump etc, and education about how to use EQ so that with a good FRFR unit at volume it is possible to sound very good, but it will not quite be the amp in the room feel; if that is what you need then whatever works for you is good. There are no rules! Good FRFR? Well explained EQ lesson

She uses it for tapping/sweep picking so that any accidentally touched strings are damped, but it can just be flicked up when you do want open strings to sound, back in the high gain 80's hair scrunchies and similar would be used for this but were not as even or quick to enable/disable