rd2rk

After troubleshooting possible power problems, S.O.P for wonky Heli is to do a factory reset.

This is how I do that on my HXS. I have a 2 button switch, with the buttons set to scroll the modes forward and back (HXEdit>Preferences>Device Settings>FS4&5). Since Snapshot Mode and Stomp mode are next to each other, it takes one press in either direction to switch Modes. If I press the VIEW button, I'm in the EDIT screen. It stays in the EDIT screen when I switch between STOMP and SNAPSHOT. In STOMP Mode I hit one button to get to Snapshots, select the Snapshot I want, press the other button to get back to STOMP Mode, then touch the FS for the effect I want to edit. If the effect doesn't have a FS assigned, then of course I have to use a knob to get there, but that's part of the price of a compact device with less Footswitches than effects. I assume the same thing can be done on the XL using HXEdit>Preferences>Device Settings>FS7&8? The latest HXEdit Pilot's Guide isn't clear on that, saying to refer to the HXSXL manual, which doesn't help. This can be done directly with a MIDI controller too on HXS using CC#71 to go to the desired Mode, but that option doesn't appear to be implemented on HXSXL (per the manual), though IIRC someone over on TGP said that something of that sort had been added, they weren't real clear on the subject. You might want to post this question over there, as the HXSXL thread seems to be pretty active. If there's no workaround, you should check Ideascale to see if it's been requested. It may have been requested more than once by folks who didn't bother with a search, so vote for all of them. If it Hasn't been requested yet, request it!

I never paid much attention to the WhoWatt, thought it sounded kind of lifeless. Your settings bring it to life! It's not an amp that lots of people use, so it's good to hear some suggestions from someone who's owned them. Thanks!

There's lots of ways to go about this sort of thing, depending on your specific needs, but you shouldn't have any problem greater than the planning itself.

This came up over on TGP. Here's the problem: "I have a preset that has 4 snapshots in my helix lt. I want to raise the output block volume in 2 of the snapshots at the same time with the remaining 2 unaffected. Possible?" He's using a 4x4 FS arrangement, so only 4 Snaps visible at a time (couldn't use additional Snaps). Here's my solution: "You could add a gain block assigned to a Stomp, and turn off Snapshot Bypass. Since that only affects the Bypass state, you could assign the Gain parameter on that block to Snapshots, have it SAVED Higher on the 3rd and 4th Snapshots, and have the 2 other Snapshots saved with the Gain set lower. Save all 4 Snapshots with the Gain Block OFF. When you switch guitars, turn ON the Gain Block. It will stay ON in all 4 Snapshots, but since the first 2 are set to a lower setting than 3 and 4, They'll remain lower, and only 3 and 4 will be higher. When you switch back, turn the Gain Block OFF. Since you're using a Powercab, you'll want to keep track of the Level indicator on the PC. If you've got it optimized for the LP, the Gain Block could push it into the Red. You may have to optimize it with the Gain Block ON. There shouldn't be that much difference that it would affect your tone when it's OFF." Not to brag or anything (ahem), but I thought it was clever enough to post here too. Example preset attached. HB vs SC w Snapshots.hlx

Just a little. :-) Helix will only send it's default PC if PC Tx (Global Settings>MIDI) is ON.

There's two main reasons to max/disable the BIG KNOB. In this position, the output is at UNITY in relation to the Input. IOW, turning it DOWN is subtractive. Theoretically, since the level control happens in the digital realm (before the converters), it's possible that there could be a tonal difference, caused by a bunch of technical stuff involving bit depth and whatnot beyond my level of expertise, and only detectable by Steve Vai and your dog. Bottom line for me - if I choose to use the BIG KNOB for level adjustments, I don't hear any difference and, therefore, it doesn't exist in the real world. The other main reason you'd want to disable the BIG KNOB is when sending your signal via XLR to FOH or an external Audio Interface, and monitoring your stage level with an on-stage amp. In this case you would disable the BIG KNOB for the XLR outs in order to send a steady signal to FOH, while still being able to use the BIG KNOB to control your stage level through your amp. A third reason is that if you're setting the output levels of your presets with the BIG KNOB at less than UNITY, when you up it to UNITY you'll have some VERY HOT presets, and thus the distortion you're getting downstream. When you use Helix as your AI and record with USB, it's a set level independent of the BIG KNOB, but if the signal is already too hot....

Both Time and NoteSync are easy to setup concurrently with Min/Max Values, but the only way I can see to switch between the two modes is manually. The only solution I can see is to use identical delays with different settings and toggle them. DSP costly, especially if you're using HXS or HXFX. Maybe a good candidate for Ideascale?

I can do this easily with MIDI from an external controller, but apparently, Toggling CCs from HXS are restricted to values of 0-63/64-127. 0/1 sends: 000 001 001 Each and every time, and the LED doesn't change after the first press. Very educational bug, this! I first tried this using USB out to a MIDI Monitor, then back, and the above was the result. BUT..... OK - if you loop the MIDI Out to In, then set it up in CommandCenter per the attached example, it works! Basically, you're sending a Toggling CC#69 with values DIM=0, LIT=1. Of course, if you're using other MIDI devices, it could get complicated, but there ya go! Music4life928.hlx

Problem is that there's no way to get to that setting when using CommandCenter to assign a Stomp Switch to change Snapshots, it only works when assigning a FS to a parameter of something. I just tried setting the same FS already assigned to change snapshots to also control a parameter of an amp, setting it to equal Min/Max Values and "latching", thinking that maybe that would make it Latching for both functions. No dice.

That's cool. As long as you're planning to never update your device again. Because when you do, you're probably going to lose your "anomaly". You COULD report it as a BUG, but ask that, if they find the problem, would they please implement it as a feature? It's kind of a programmer's joke to describe a bug as a feature. For a bug to actually BECOME a feature would be novel indeed! :-)

Which of the 649 (+12 Ambient) Redwirez HiWatt Impulses did you feel had a "weird bump" in the mids? I'm certainly no mix engineer, so whenever I use Redwirez IRs I always consult their very excellent download "Dialing in your tone with Redwirez IRs", in which they give a very basic but informative description of the mics and positions and how to use them. Before you let a dozen different anonymous internet experts tell you all about their (totally subjective) favorite IRs, you should have a look at that paper and give Redwirez a chance to do what they've done fantastically for longer than any of the others have been around! After all, you've already PAID for them! Disclaimer - The BIG BOX was my first IR collection. I was overwhelmed! In the years since I've tried 3Sigma, Rosen (now Lancaster), Ownhammer, Celestion and York Audio, as well as a bevy of freebies, FFIRs, and EQs. I always end up going back to Redwirez, except when something from York Audio just works. YMMV.

Do the preamps run directly to the mesa sound different? With a Helix Full amp, the Preamp is amped twice, once in the block, and again at the Mesa. If you sub a Helix Preamp for the Helix Full amp, you'll get the same "thinner" sound as you report getting with the real Preamp in a loop. I don't have a HW preamp to test, other than running a tube combo in 4cm, which sounds fine, so the above thoughts are all I have.

Instead of using the 1/4" out to the amp, place a send block before the split to your parallel IRs and use the send (LINE level if 4cm) for the amp.

Confirmed. You caught a bug! Normally I don't use the BYPASS ASSIGN Menu, I touch assign, and that still works.

I definitely will.

As I said, I can't see how you did it in the first place.

Hey, what's your problem? The thread is about UPDATE problems, not patch and recording problems. I responded anyway, as best I could, trying to be helpful. You went straight to insults and a personal attack. Nobody needs your attitude. Buzz off!

Sorry, who are you responding to? In reality, I've never seen anyone say that a cable which caused failed updates also caused problems with building patches (i assume you mean with HX Edit) or recording, though I suppose it could happen. While I've never had a problem with an Amazon Basics cable (or Monoprice), some of the other brands that are sold on Amazon are so cheap that you have to wonder.

I don't see how you have it working as described. If you set it to PRESS/HOLD, then set PRESS to SS2 and HOLD to SS1, then when you press and release it will switch to SS2, and when you then press and hold it will return to SS1.

AND....here we go again! On my Helix Floor I have a right angle adaptor connected to a 10ft Amazon Basics USB Extender running through a rat's nest of data and power cables, then behind studio monitors and on to my laptop. I have no problems with updates, ever. On my PC212 I have a 5ft cable connected to another 10ft Amazon Basics Extender, through the same rat's nest, into a powered Amazon Basics hub. I've had no problems with updates, though I've only run an update on the Powercab twice. It's well known that Helix IS sensitive to USB cables, but length does NOT necessarily determine whether you'll have an issue or not. Though, while 15ft works for the Powercab, it might be a bit much for updating the Helix. DO try different cables, as cheap printer cables are suspect, but don't sweat a 6-8ft cable. It should be fine. DO make sure that your cable is plugged in to a Motherboard USB Input, NOT a hub. The issue of USB drops has been discussed to death on multiple threads. Various people have discovered various GUARANTEED THIS IS THE PROBLEM fixes. If a high quality data cable doesn't fix it, search for those threads, and, Good Luck!

TBH, I wasn't really sure what the problem was, just took a shot. Glad you got it sorted!

You should need only one Volume, Level and EXP PEDAL set to Snapshot control, then saved as required in EACH Snapshot.

Forgot to mention this - The "Unofficial" Helix MIDI Guide (the-eye.eu) Excellent primer!

The reason I mentioned that Rolls controller was your request for a simple way to change presets and no programming. That's all it does. Snapshots are the other end of the spectrum. You need to be able to send CC#69 followed by a value based on the number of Snapshots. I forget how many that is for HXFX, but for HXStomp it's 3, so CC#69 + Value=0, 1 or 2. You need to be able to do this on a single FS press to avoid tap dancing. Not all MIDI controllers can do that. Also, the delay/gap in sound that's often spoken of is REALLY tiny. ANY radical changes in sound will cause an APPARENT gap simply as a result of the SOUND changing. It's not like SOUND-SILENCE-SOUND. If you play a chord or note, then change presets OR Snapshots, it will NOT be totally smooth if the tonal differences are great, even using Snapshots. It sounds like you need to read the HXFX manual's MIDI section, decide what you want to be able to do, THEN look for a MIDI controller. As for programming, once you understand the basic MIDI messages (GOOGLE basic MIDI), programming can be a PITA (Press this 7 times, while holding this and that), reasonable, as in the case of most GUI Editors, or it could entail actual programming with code, as in the case of the FCB1010 with UNO2 chip that I use. When researching controllers, DO NOT underestimate the importance of a coherently designed editor AND a well written manual for it's use! It should also allow for saving the configuration to a file so that when the device gets wonky (computers do that) and needs to be reset, you can restore it vs re-programming it.