rd2rk

Try the attached example preset. The the "B Level" switch ON you get both paths. OFF is Path A only. The trick is in the Mix Block. EDIT: I forgot you wanted snapshots. Here it is with snapshots. TheMaGotT.hlx

That's confusing. MIDI does not use XLR. FRFR IS IR mode. The test I ran switched (with snapshots) from speaker emulation to FRFR with the IR on the PC+ and to FRFR with the IR on the Helix. No noise. Maybe you could attach your preset so I can see what's happening with it? Here's my test preset. You'll have to use your own IR of course, unless you have the same OH IR thst I used, both on the PC+ and the Helix. BrtPlxJmpMode.hlx

Nothing to do. The Split block splits the main stereo signal into two stereo signals. The Mixer block mixes the two stereo paths back into one stereo path. Since IRs are Mono, the two stereo paths are now one mix of two Mono paths, but post Mixer is still stereo until you add another Mono block. If you add a stereo block post mixer, you've got stereo. Control the level of IR1 vs IR2 either at the IR blocks or at the Mixer block. Control the placement in the stereo field at the Mixer block.

So, HX Edit is connecting now? All problems solved?

How are you connecting (direct? Thru a hub?) to what kind of computer (laptop or desktop)? What OS?

If the pm351 has a balanced input, AND it's 20' or more from the stomp, use a TRS. Otherwise any shielded (guitar) type cable will be fine.

Try a parametric EQ, or any EQ that you understand, in the separate path to the 1/4" out.

Troubleshoot by starting with a new, blank preset. Add the base requirements (amp, cabs). Add things one at a time until you create the problem. Then figure out a new plan to achieve the desired results.

No. You DON'T have to use IRs to get a good tone, especially on Bass. Start by learning how to use the built-in Helix cabs. There ARE YT vids on that (tho not usually bass-centric). Go to the Redwirez site and download their free explanation of the characteristics of different mics. Study up on the effects of moving a mic to different distances from the cab. Try the different mics and distances for yourself. Find out how eq works. Every Helix cab has Bass and Treble adjustments, as does every amp and many effects. Learn. The cool guys on YT are selling something, even if it's just their rep as "experts". Also, be VERY aware that, no matter what you do on the Stomp, the MOST IMPORTANT part of your signal chain is the final speaker and cabinet that reproduces the finished sound. If you're using a 3" monitor, it's NEVER going to sound like an 810 SVT Fridge, no matter WHAT IR you use!

I set up a preset using snapshots to switch from PC+Speaker (SS1 - Green) to PC+ USER IR (SS2 - OH 412 MRBW GNR 57) to the same IR loaded on my Helix with PC+ in Flat Mode. I hit the big "A" chord, let it ring, and cycled through the Snapshots. No volume spike at all. In fact, I was surprised that, other than the expected tone differences between the Speaker Emulation and the OH IR, the levels were perfectly matched. I used snapshots, how are you doing it? Maybe you could record the phenomena and attach it?

1) Acoustic - No experience 2) I think of it this way - with the IRs loaded on the PC+, you're hearing what the engineer in the Control Room hears - the sound of a mic'd cab in another room, at the end of the guitarist's signal chain. With the IR loaded on the Helix as the last block in the signal chain, you get the same thing. If you add stuff (EQ, Compression, Reverb, Delay, etc) AFTER the IR, YOU are now the Engineer in the Control Room, adding Post effects. If you want an "Amp In The Room" experience, use the PC+ Speaker Emulations. If you're trying to duplicate a recorded sound from a studio produced album, loading the IR on the Helix and adding Post Processing effects might be a better way to go. 3) LRS - No experience of the enhanced for PC+ IRs, but wasn't thrilled with the freebies. 4) As for which IR Mode to use, Flat is FRFR with the HF Driver; LF Flat is the Eminence Speaker w/o the HF Driver, EQ'd to be Flat; RAW is the Eminence in it's natural state - as if it was just another 112 cab w/o HF Driver or compensatory EQ. Use the one that sounds best in your application. I'm a simple guy, not obsessed with getting "that perfect tone". I use the Speaker Emulations, then record with an XLR from the PC+ to the AI (Scarlett 18i20) and into Reaper with whatever PC+ Mic sim sounds best in that particular scenario. I've also tried taking an additional XLR direct from the Helix (IRs on the PC+) and using Two Notes WOS and their cabs. Meh. Sounds good and all, but for my purposes (and lack of patience) I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. YMMV. Try it! For simple in the room jamming I also run another XLR from the Scarlett to my FRFR112 for a fuller sound in the room, and to get an approximation of what FOH might be putting out to an audience. I'll only be using the FRFR112 for the fuller sound until I get another PC+. Then I'll have STEREO! HMM...STEREO GOOD! 5) I have a number of templates, starting from the basic JS Template, for various applications. Templates are a great beginner's tool, saves lots of time when trying out things, but I have found that the more I use my Helix, the more I know what I like, and the more likely I am to just start from scratch. BTW - Your English is EXCELLENT! As a typical American, I only speak English, and American English at that! Be proud of yourself! ***See Edit in Point 2

Yes. See attached example preset. Pay particular attention to the panning in the Split and Mix Blocks. Seckinse.hlx

OK, an attempt at a more helpful response: ITRW, the difference between 112, 212 and 412 is the amount of air being pushed. Any tonal differences are the result of the interaction of the specific speakers in the specific cabinet, where you're standing in relation to the cabinet and the room in which it's being played through. IMO/E, an IR is just another tone control. The real world interactions described above are STILL dependent on the speaker and cabinet through which it's being reproduced. IOW - an IR is NOT a speaker cabinet, it is a VERY imperfect reproduction of one. It is a TONE CONTROL, nothing more, and NEVER actually sounds like the real thing. Your QSC sounds like the IR through a QSC, my frfr112 sounds like the IR through an frfr112. In the same room, they'll sound different, because there's no such thing as FRFR. To quote myself from my previous post: ALSO - an amp speaker is NOT EVER FRFR. BUT - if you like the way it sounds with your IRs, then it's THE BEST! “If it sounds good, it IS good.” ― Duke Ellington ------------------------------------------------------------ The horse is still dead, but that's the best I can do.

WARNING! BEATING A DEAD HORSE CONTENT FOLLOWS! No such thing as an objective "BEST" in a subjective realm. If you can't tell much difference, then they are ALL the best! The ONLY question is, do they sound GOOD to YOU? ALSO - an amp speaker is NOT EVER FRFR. BUT - if you like the way it sounds with your IRs, then it's THE BEST! “If it sounds good, it IS good.” ― Duke Ellington

In brief: You need to use Command Center to assign the proper MIDI messages to the switches. CC#s 49-54 = FS1-FS6. Snapshot Changes are accomplished by setting the Instant Commands to Send the Snapshot MIDI - CC#69 with values of 0 (snapshot 1) to 3 (snapshot 4). In Snapshot 1, set IC 1 to CC#69 with Value 0. In Snapshot 2 set IC 1 to CC#69 with Value 1. etc. In Global Settings>MIDI/TapTempo you need to set USB MIDI, PC TX and PC RX to ON. Then, when you record, record both an Audio (Drums) and a MIDI track. Playback will send the proper MIDI signals back to the HXFX, in sync with the recorded Drum Track.

Repeat:

Is "Balance" a song name or ???

Drive pedals seem to work best before the stomp vs in FX loops due mostly to added noise. YMMV (try it).

There's a number of long threads on here (or was it TGP?) discussing whether or not you should leave the Volume knob up full (unity) or not. In one of them somebody from L6 confirmed that the the Volume knob functions in the digital realm, before the conversion. I know, another "I read it somewhere", but it is out there. Part of the counter argument is that the difference is out of the range of human hearing, but, since we know that some people have preternaturally acute hearing..... :-)

Windows updates are annoying in that they almost always break something, but they're necessary for computer security. Fix the problem by re-installing HXEdit. That re-installs all of the necessary L6 drivers and solves most Windows update problems.

If you're going to do that, connect the amp's send to the Helix Return, set the preset's input to the Return, then you can connect the output to the amp's return.

You do know that the subject of this thread is headphones, right?

Assuming that your speakers are connected to the XLR outs, in Global Settings>Ins/Outs, set USB 1/2 Destination to XLR (not Multi).

That was cut and paste from the mfr's own description on Amazon. Here's cut and paste from Sennheiser support's response to my query about the RS185: Latency occurs in all wireless headphones however the technology being used to create the wireless signal does affect how much latency is caused. For example a Radio Frequency (RF) model (like an IEM monitoring system) has a latency of approximately 3 m/s whereas an 8-FSK digital model (like the RS 165/RS 175/RS 185) has a latency of approximately 45 m/s. Usually the delay (even at the 45 m/s level) is not discernible and hence goes unnoticed when watching TV, but can produce an echo effect if being used in conjunction with wired or RF microphones/ instrument connections -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I gave up on Cakewalk (which was my first real DAW) being anything but a flakey PITA a long while ago (been using Reaper). To check out your problem I opened it up, and let it update as per usual. It won't even see my Stomp. Still a flakey PITA! So I loaded Reaper (which got no problems like Cakewalk can't handle). Set up a simple preset with a Brit Plexi Jump. With Amp+Cab (cab level default 0.0) USB Input level is -15db. With Allure or Ownhammer Greenback IRs (default Level -18), it's still -15db. If I crank the Output Block Level to +15 it almost hits 0.0db. All of this is as expected, I just wanted to verify before commenting. What I don't understand about your problem is WHY do you need to crank the Output Block Level to +15? You didn't bother saying which Helix you're using or what speakers you've got, so not much more I can check, but the full power of your speakers is attained when their Volume knobs are cranked. You can feed them all the signal you can get, but thy're just going to distort if you overload the Inputs. Why not use your system the way it was designed to be used? Maybe I'm just not understanding your goal?