rd2rk

https://www.mu-tron.com/vintage-musitronics/mu-tron-iii/ Input Impedance: 1 megohm at lowest setting of GAIN control, variable to 3.3K ohms at maximum gain setting

Here's a modded version. I set all of the Ins/Outs/Loops to Instrument level. Input PAD (Global) is ON. My guitar has a Seymour Duncan JB in the bridge, which is pretty hot for a passive Alnico pickup (16.6k). Using the meters on my 18i20, I set all of the Loop and Output levels to just below "YELLOW (vs RED)" when HARD picking. IOW, always in the GREEN. I tied the Output Block Levels to the FX Loop Bypass switches so that the levels are the same whether ON or OFF, for BOTH Path 1 and Path 2. That means that both amps should be getting the same level, regardless of whether the FX Loops are ON or OFF. Nothing is clipping, and there should be sufficient headroom in the loops. I only did this on the default Snapshot. None of my settings are tied to Snapshots. Save a copy BEFORE you start modding it. Hemispheres Mod1.hlx

I can't tell much from a picture. Attach the actual preset and I'll look at the settings. One thing that stands out, each path has both an FX Loop and a separate Return. Why is that?

What amp are you using? Is it a Serial or Parallel FX Loop? Does it have it's own level control? Is the amp's Master Volume before or after the FX Loop? If it's sending back a LINE level signal, and the loop is set to Instrument, you may need to use separate Send and Return Blocks set appropriately.. Try turning down the Helix FX Loop Send Level, then the Return level. That might identify where the clipping is coming from.

It's clipping. Check the levels on everything in the signal chain before the FX Loop. If your pickups are super hot you may need to engage the Input Block Pad.

Which Helix? If it's the Floor there's an Allen bolt on the side of the pedal that you can tighten. If it's the LT it MIGHT be covered under warranty, even if your warranty has expired.

MF is actually Guitar Center, but the employees know LESS (impossible as that seems) than the typical GC employee. Caveat emptor!

Considering that it was their mistake, MF shouldn't have a problem with that. I'd hit them up for an annoyance discount too..... FWIW (closing the barn door after), whenever I buy anything high tech, I first DL and read the manual. Just sayin'. :-)

Stomp does not have Command Center and therefore does not send CCs or anything else other than the default Program Change (01A=000,01B-001 etc). Command Center is scheduled to be added in v3.0.

Try Craigslist for a used 17" laptop bag.

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No. Here's a test Preset. Press FS11 to A/B the two signal paths. Maybe there's something else in your signal path that's causing it. Test Bypass Tron.hlx

If the preset was made for a humbucker, and you're playing with single coils, that'll happen. Best place to start with a Noise Gate is the Input Block. For specific questions about custom presets, it's a lot easier to help you if you attach the preset. It's also good, in addition to the kind of guitar you're playing, to know what you're playing it through - FRFR, Studio Monitors, amp FX return into 412, computer speakers.....

Sounds like a decent used price. You'll also want a SHORT speaker stand, something like this: https://www.guitarcenter.com/On-Stage/SSAS7000B-Mini-Adjustable-Speaker-Stand.gc This gets it uncoupled from the floor for clearer, not boomy sound, and puts it at about chest level so that the Hi Frequency driver isn't piercing your ear-drums!

The full range of possibilities with Helix and a guitar amp is realized by using 4cm or FRFR. Or both. Or Powercab(s). If you choose to stay with the JC, 4cm is the way to go. If your problem with 4cm is the mess of cables, get a Pedalsnake, or just use cable ties to bundle them together. Whether or not to use Cabs/IRs with the JC is subjective, NOT a set in stone rule. There are no rules. If it sounds good, do it. Odds are that, while you can get close to matching your stage sound with what the audience hears, it will never be the same. All FOH systems sound different. Likewise, all FRFR "solutions" sound different. Which one will you buy? Ask advice here or on TGP, you'll get a list of everyone's favorites. You'll never find a store that has ALL of them to compare. A crap shoot, a rabbit hole. FWIW - At home I use a Powercab 112+ AND a FRFR112. Sometimes I use Cabs/IRs, sometimes just the Raw Powercab speaker (or one of the emulations) and an IR through the FRFR112. On stage I use the Powercab with XLR from Powercab to FOH. I have a 15w/112 tube combo with FX Loop that I never use anymore. It's for sale. One L6 Link cable from Helix to Powercab is all you need, and XLR from Powercab to FOH. EZ PZ. A second Powercab for stereo would be cool, eliminate the FRFR112 completely. Need two inputs at the FOH board though. Oh dear, what shall I do? Let me check my Lotto numbers. Maybe I'll get TWO PC212+ cabs - quadrophenia! Wait - 2 x 50 lbs = 100lbs - where's my roadie? IMO - the closest you'll get to stage sound matching FOH is a Powercab, with the XLR out from the Powercab (carries the PC Input signal in FRFR Mode or Powercab speaker emulation +/- mic emulation - RTM) to FOH. Once upon a time, you set your amp on stage and the sound tech put a mic in front of it. That's what you get with Powercab, but without the stage bleed into the mic. Of course, if you don't like the way the Powercab sounds.......

Move the Path B split to the right, AFTER the Volume pedal.

No. Like I said, you can manually put it in EDIT view, where it will stay if you use MIDI to change from Preset/Stomp/Snapshot views, and you can send specific Program Changes to get to presets in other Banks, but if you want to use Bank Up/Down you're SOL.

Attached are samples of two ways to do it. In "Combined Parallel" both amps are ON at once. You're after the combined sound. You can pan them L/R. Note that the amps I chose are high DSP, so there's not much you can add without extending the signal chain to Path 2. In "Channel Switch" You're mimicking a dual channel amp. One amp at a time is ON, and you switch "channels" with the assigned footswitch. You can use two different sounding amps as in "Combined Parallel" with the "Channel Switch" configuration to create your own custom dual channel amp. You can also create a 3 channel amp the same way by using Snapshots for the channel switching. The third amp will usually need to be in Path 2 for DSP reasons. Channel Switch.hlx Combined Paralle.hlx

I'm not sure I understand. Using MIDI, you can select Preset Mode, switch Presets using the Stomp buttons, and you will remain in Edit Mode. For Bank UP and Bank DOWN you're stuck, but if you send Preset #s (000-127), you'll get to where you want to be and still be in Edit Mode.

CC#71 Footswitch Mode (0=Stomp, 1=Scroll, 2=Preset, 3=Snapshot, 4=Next footswitch mode, 5=Previous footswitch mode) If you want to, you can manually put the Stomp in Edit Mode, then use the above MIDI messages to change the functions of the footswitches. However, the display will stay in Edit Mode. You'll only know the Function Mode you're in by the colors of the switch LEDs.

See page 42 of the manual ""Global Settings>Footswitches", "FS4 Function".

The wish list is here: https://line6.ideascale.com/ Search first for "quantize" and vote for all the ideas posted by those who didn't search first....

1) Yes 2) Yes. You can completely disengage the Wah Block from the Expression Pedal and use the pedal for other things.. 3) The Expression Pedal can control whatever you want in different presets, it's not Global.

The adapter only switches channels. The FX loop is "Always On". The "Crunch" thing is left out, but I'm thinking there's enough ways to do that in Helix, is it really necessary, or worth the extra cost of the Control Switcher and whatever they'd charge for the custom cable? OP would have to price that stuff and weigh the cost/return. FWIW - the Control Switcher is a really neat little box. More and more multi-channel amps are coming with MIDI switching, so it could have future value that the BPTA adapter wouldn't. Worth factoring in the cost/return consideration.

You might also need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O54?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1