duncann

I believe the limit is four.

Here's a song from the album I'm working on: Aphotic X I started writing this using an HD500X and then got Helix in the midst of writing, so had to make it all Helix, of course. But there is a track that uses the growler filter from the HD500X in the first minute. I couldn't duplicate this on Helix. If anyone's interested in the patches I made for this, I'd be happy to attach them to this post.

Absolutely good for using in a DAW. But yes, the problem with these and Helix is the length. At 48KHz with 2048 samples, the length would be 42.67ms. Most of those reverbs would be way longer than that.

Here's a bunch: God's Cab Pack 1.4. Haven't really used these, but have read good things about them. I doubt most of those listed on the openairlib.net site you linked will be of any use when uploaded to Helix. They'll be truncated to 2048 samples, making them basically neutered.

Not sure about the FCB1010 specifically, but I don't see why this wouldn't work, as long as it has a midi output. I use Reaper to control Helix all the time, over USB. Take a look at page 48 in the manual for the specific midi info you'll need for this.

Not sure about your problem with the compressor. I get the same audio dropouts that you're getting. Helix's SPDIF out into a coaxial to optical converter, then into an optical input for a pci-e add-on internal soundcard. Like you, I never had a problem with an HD500 or HD500X. I've noticed that Helix has to be on for around 45 minutes before the audio dropout occurs and it's anywhere from a half-second to around 3 seconds long. The record source for my DAW is Helix's USB, and when the dropout occurs while recording (happens also when not recording), the audio is still recorded. I was kind of assuming the dropout was something other than Helix, but now I'm not so sure. I hope this isn't a hardware problem with Helix.

I would suspect that it's simply not as easy as plopping down more processors and memory on the mainboard. There would be quite a bit more cost involved besides just the processors and memory, such as circuit layout, power requirements, heat dissipation, writing the firmware, and the man hours all of this would take, just to name a few. Suddenly it's not cheap at all. Maybe a device like Helix with seamless preset switching is still one or two generations away (10-15 years?), but then what? What will that product be one or two generations away from achieving? I myself have no real need for instantaneous preset switching, and the delay and reverb trails can be done within a preset. But, even when I do switch presets, from a distorted preset to a clean and vice versa, it is really quick and I can't even hear it; it's really smooth.

I've been hoping for this for a long time, but if it's going to happen, it's going to take a long time. One of my presets from the HD uses the growler filter, which I tried to replicate on Helix but couldn't do it. I tried mostly using the 3 OSC synth (I sure wish there were some documentation for this Line 6 Original filter), so I have to keep one of my HDs around for this purpose. However, I've found I can do perfectly fine without the Dimension Chorus, so it's not all bad.

There is no way to specify whether you want an effect on or off depending on the value, unfortunately. You could look in Reaper's preferences -> Audio -> MIDI Devices, and on the bottom there is a toggle to Reset CC on stop/play, and see if that does anything for you. Otherwise, you could possibly write a script to mute the midi item once the cursor goes past the time that midi item lives in. I don't know anything about Reaper's scripting or even if this would be possible, but just an idea.

Here's a post I made a while back testing all the buffer settings: http://line6.com/support/topic/16310-helix-as-audio-interface/?do=findComment&comment=121025

I would say there is something in each of the packs that make it worth to get. For me, maybe not so much the vintage pack, but the metal and bass packs stand out for me. I think you'll be surprised at the quality. Apparently, most of the models were made using the HX (Helix) modeling engine and then ported to HD modeling.

One reason would be to enable the use of a dual cab and mic for an expanded palette of tones. For this configuration, both amps would essentially have the same settings, although they can also be different.

Actually, Line 6 Monkey is fine to use, as well as HD Edit. The only thing the buyer shouldn't use to keep the packs retained is Line 6 License Manager.

It can be resized, just not tall enough. On my 1440p monitor, there is still about 3.5cm left that it could be be made taller, but can't. I really hope that when the editor is released, the entire interface, including all components, scale properly, like most other applications.

Yes. The pod has to be plugged into the computer via usb. Then with the pod turned on: 1. Run Line 6 License Manager. In order to do anything with this program, you have to log in to your Line 6 support account with this program. 2. Once you're logged in a list of devices that are powered on shows up on the left, in my case it's My Computer and POD HD500X. 3. Select the device that has the model packs you want to deauthorize from the device. 4. Select the deauthorize button. I'm unsure if the above is what you want because I'm fairly certain this will block access to any model packs on the device itself. If you just want to deauthorize and then unregister your device using your web browser and your Line 6 support account: 1. Log in to your Line 6 support account. 2. Account services. 3. My account. 4. Authorized devices. 5. Then click the X for the device you're selling. 6. Registered Gear. 7. Click the remove link for the device you're selling. The above steps 1-7 do not rely on the device itself at all, so any model packs will remain accessible on the device. You can also gift any model packs to the person you are selling to: purchase history -> details -> give as gift. Doing this will require you to purchase any model packs again for your newer X pod if you want them. Doing it this way, or removing access on the device you're selling and informing the person you're selling to that the device does not have the model packs, is most likely what is meant to happen.

When, or right before, you finally sell your pod, deauthorize any model packs from your Line 6 support account as well as deregister the pod you're selling from your Line 6 support account. At this point any model packs are still on the device. If you want to get rid of any model packs from the actual device, you'll have to use the Line 6 License Manager application with the device connected to your computer via USB. Then to get any model packs on your new pod X, just go through the same process you went through to get them on the pod you just sold. There is nothing really to download, it's just an authorization process to use something that's already there.

Haha. Funny story. I have some nefarious memories about obtaining cigarettes when quite young as well. I don't know if it was true back whenever, but today at least, there are literally hundreds of chemicals in a cigarette, many of which I'm sure contribute to the taste. Many probably put in there for the sake of taste alone. You're fortunate that it never became a habit for you.

It would be convenient, that's for sure. Maybe something like this will be part of the Editor when it's released.

It is true. I've tried it. :) A firmware flash, and the model packs' retention, doesn't rely on whether or not a product is registered, and authorized, with Line 6. All you need is Line 6 Monkey, the firmware file, and the physical device. However, at some point in the product's history, it must have been registered and authorized for the model pack(s). To get rid of the model packs from the device, one would have to manually deauthorize them (with USB connected), otherwise, the packs remain very happy where they are, even if you unregister your device from your Line 6 support account.

You can still flash at least the same version firmware and have the model packs remain intact. I would also suspect that if they ever update the HD series again, you would also be able to flash the newer version without losing the packs. Plus there is no need to log in to your Line 6 support account to reflash a device unless you count getting the firmware file using your web browser...

You could make a preset that contains as many effects that will fit with your favorites settings, and use the copy/paste function. Or make a bunch of presets, My Fav Delays, My Fav Choruses, My Fav Flangers, etc.

I didn't notice any difference in the SPDIF output with 1.04.0. I still get an occasional 1-3 second total audio dropout from this output, usually after Helix has been on for about 45-60 minutes, but I still haven't narrowed down if it's actually the output on Helix that's dropping out, or something in between that and the speakers. Did you do a global reset (9 & 10 while powering on, make sure to backup everything first!)?

For feedback emulation, thestratmanblues outlined about the best way to do this. It's certainly not perfect. In fact, it really has quite a different feel than actual feedback. Instead of the Twin Harmony, you could also use the pitch wham set to an octave higher. And when using the mix control, don't go all the way to 100%, but rather around 60% - 70%. I use this technique on some of my songs (with an HD500X) and it gives a nice blooming effect to a sustained note. You can also add a phaser to the tone to give it a slightly less sterile feel.

Nice song. Sounds good. I like the lyrics. I use Helix for recording guitar and bass and it works just fine. I don't see why it wouldn't work with other sound sources. As Dramey said above, no real need to worry about latency when monitoring directly from Helix's outputs. The re-amping feature I'm finding a little less useful than I thought. It works fine, but when making a tone with re-amping, the feel is gone. It's almost like poking one of your eyes out and then trying to have peripheral vision on the side you no longer have sight on. I've tried it (not poking my eye out) and got a tone I thought sounded good, using re-amping, but when I went to play the part I knew immediately the tone was wrong.

I updated the application first, then did a setlist backup, then firmware update, then 9 & 10 reset, then restored the backed-up setlist. Same thing you did. I don't notice anything that strikes me as out of place with my presets. Honestly, I wouldn't worry at all about this.