cruisinon2

This thread is 4 years old, gents...

Experiment. Mix and match body styles, pickups, boost the output, etc. One size definitely does not fit all...

Feature requests need to go in Ideascale... no one who can do anything about it will see it in here.

You will have the same difficulty with acoustic tones using any traditional guitar amp/cab or combo... it's just not what they're designed for. FRFR is a necessity for acoustic stuff.

Yes and no...L6 didn't do you any "favors" per se, but they have provided you with options. The behavior of those up/down footswitches is selectable, depending on what footswitch layout you want and what mode you prefer (preset, snapshot, stomp/snap, preset/snap, all snapshots, etc etc). so it all depends on how you have things configured. The arrow switches are assignable to either "bank" or "preset". When set to "preset", those arrow switches will instantly change to one preset higher or lower... if you had been in that mode, you would probably have screwed yourself up even worse selecting the wrong patch. But when set to "bank", the next set of 4 patches become selectable, which you'd then have to access via another footswitch. The various options are in global settings under "footswitches". But regardless of how you have things set up, hitting the wrong footswitch will usually foul things up to some degree. We've all done it. Whether or not the moment is salvageable though, will depend largely on two things: 1) How well you know your gear, and 2) How easily you get rattled. If you have a good grasp of #1, then #2 becomes less likely.

IdeaScale is the place to put requests like this... it'll languish in here largely unnoticed, forever. Don't hold your breath though....Amp Farm is old news.

I replaced my pickguard some time ago... if memory serves it's not a "swimming pool" cavity underneath, but I'm not certain. But armed with 2 minutes and a screwdriver, taking a peak underneath is easy enough. Even if it one giant hole though, you won't find a HSH replacement pickguard from L6... I've seen one or two companies online that will cut a custom one for you if you provide a template. Easiest option is probably to mod the existing one to accommodate a humbucker, if you decide to go that route.

We're saved! Visionaries, those folks at Rokit...Lmao.

Preferences for neck profiles are an individual thing... you're never gonna be able to predict whether or not you'll like the way one feels from reading someone else's description. If you're overly picky about it, get the 69. It'll accept any Strat replacement neck out there. Worst case scenario, you replace it with something from Warmoth, and then you can choose from a number of different profiles. It's always a gamble if you're buying sight unseen though... and that can't be helped.

When in doubt, reload the firmware... it's really the only recourse you've got. If it continues to behave oddly, open a service ticket.

Me neither, but I think you'll have a hard time convincing a developer that there's any money in it. I have no idea what Helix's market share is, but there are only so many guitarists out there, and this is but one of a million amplification options. Some might be willing to fork over money for such a utility, but in the end I suspect only a small percentage of Helix-ers would bother. I just don't see rearranging set lists in HX Edit as being arduous enough to make folks willing to pay money for additional software that does the same thing. Just my 2 cents...

It happens. Not frequently, but it happens. It's a computer... and like every other computer on earth, sooner or later it'll do weird $hit. I realize that's not terribly comforting, but that's the risk you take with complex gear like this. Then again, I've had tube amps fry 5 minutes before showtime too... nothing's perfect. Play live long enough, and eventually it's your turn for a trainwreck "Spinal Tap" moment. Don't lose any sleep over it... eventually some sort of gear failure will befall you at the worst possible time, whether you like it or not...ask any working pro. Have a backup. Always. And if you're on the road for any length of time, a backup for the backup.

This is kinda like showing up on a BMW forum to ask questions about your Chevy pickup...;) Somewhere out there is a tube amp forum that would probably get you the answer you're looking for in minutes... try The Gear Page. You'll wait forever for a useful response around here.... most of us are digital converts.

Yeah..."Don't force"

Madrid is nice. But Gstaad... now there's a town. ;)

Near as I can tell, the entire human race spends ~90% of it's waking hours dreaming and scheming ways to get free $hit... closest most of us get though, is finding 10 bucks in a pocket when you're doing the laundry. Best of luck in your quest!

Unfortunately posting in here isn't going to help you get your money back... this is a user forum. If they're not responding to a support ticket, I'd suggest calling customer service directly. You can actually get a real human on the other end of the phone. I've done it before.

Nope... it's a plug-in. Without a DAW to run it, it's useless.

If you're not going to record, then Native isn't gonna do you much good. It's a plug-in, and can only run inside a DAW. Which hardware version you choose boils down to your needs and budget. The middle of the road choice would be the LT.

There are two GC's within 15 minutes of my house.... trouble is, most of my guitars are older than the "techs" doing the set-ups. I'll pass. ;)

Yeah...I get that you have to toe the company line. But I'll keep saying the same thing I've said all along, because I know it to be true: It's a guitar, not the Hubble telescope. Anyone who can set up their Strat or LP without falling off their stool, losing an eye, or impaling themselves on a hex wrench, can set up a Variax. It's not supernatural. Relentlessly pushing the idea that the are only a handful of human beings capable of doing it properly because they have access to the "Double-Secret Spec Sheet", does NO ONE any favors for two reasons: 1) It simply isn't true. 2) For a lot of folks, there is no "authorized service center" within a reasonable distance...but there probably is a local guy who does guitar repairs. Do you really expect people to drive for hours, or ship the guitar out a couple/three times a year, every time it needs a set-up? Who's gonna do that? It's beyond inconvenient (and/or prohibitively expensive), and quite frankly, insane. Or maybe they should just take it to the guy across town who's been repairing guitars for the last 30 years...it's well within the wheelhouse of any competent tech or luthier, or anyone who's been doing their own set-ups for any length of time.

And you won't. They've steadfastly refused to divulge such "proprietary" info for years, the excuse being that when they used to do exactly that, too many half-wits were ruining their instruments, then sending them in for repair. So they've basically concluded that no one but "authorized" service centers are capable of doing it correctly. But honestly... suppose the "factory specs" don't feel right to you? Action too high, too low...Are you just gonna fight with the guitar from that point on? Set everything how you like it, and call it a day. Nothing terrible will happen.

Generally speaking, you don't want to be using an amp model at all. A little compression, and perhaps the studio preamp model will suffice... but your problem is almost certainly related to your output. What are you playing through? If it's not some sort of FRFR speaker (studio monitors, flat reference headphones, PA etc.) then you're never going to get a convincing acoustic tone. Traditional electric guitar amps have a very narrow frequency response... far too narrow to produce realistic acoustic sounds.

What Phil said... line of sight matters. If you can't see the unit, then sooner or later it won't be able to see you either. Leaving it on "auto" and letting it choose the best channel will minimize the likelihood of other wireless device interference, but won't help you at all if the problem is any significant physical obstruction between you and the base unit.

The Powercab sounded like an amp because it is an amp. You made no mention of what you were monitoring through at home when you tried the Native demo. If you were using headphones, studio monitors, or some other FRFR speaker, then comparing it to the Powercab is rather pointless... it's a different animal. The whole point of the Powercab is to provide the "amp in the room" feel that some guys can't do without.