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What model blocks are you putting into your signal chain within the Helix? If you are running Helix into the front end of your amp, just try a single overdrive or distortion model to see how that sounds. With your amp set clean drop in the Minotaur and play around with the parameters on the distortion model. If you are putting other things in your signal chain that are normally not used going into the front end of an amp, then things may not sound "normal" to you.

Two JBL EON 610s. Found a deal on Amazon a while back $325 each, free shipping, two free stands.

Just try some of those ideas out and see if you like the way it sounds. To get you going for gigs, just drop in similar effects in the same order that you are used to with your pedals and just tweak them to taste.

^This^ Do you see the peaks from the clicks and pops on the recorded track?

You can try preamp blocks, it won't hurt anything. Try one without any other effects to see what it sounds like. Try reverb and delay in parallel. You will retain definition in your delays since reverb and delay signals are independent. I am not familiar with your particular effect pedals, so you will just have to play around within the Helix to duplicate them.

I think what happened was that the one in the base was "sleeping" while the other was sitting in the receiver base. The one sitting in the receiver assigned itself a channel that was the same as the one sleeping in the bass. So when the bass woke up, it was playing through the other receiver. You could probably play both bass and guitar through your rhythm guitar amp. What you need to make sure to do pre-show is to power up one unit, put the transmitter into the receiver to assign a channel, remove from the receiver. While that one is still transmitting (solid green LED), power up the other unit, insert the transmitter into the receiver to assign it a channel. Now the first should be assigned to "channel 1" with that particular receiver and the other is assigned to "channel 2" with the other receiver. Once you have done that and have ran sound check verifying bass and guitar are working as desired, do NOT put them back into the receiver units because they will attempt to reassign channels. They could get crossed up again if one is sleeping while you plug the other into the receiver. If you need to charge your transmitter (and didn't do so before the show) you can buy a charging cord that you can charge the transmitter with without having to insert it into the receiver. The charging cord will not reassign channels on the transmitter.

How did you have your old effects routed into the front of your amp, just serially, and in what order? If you are trying to take the place of those effect with the Helix, you will need to "simulate" the same routing with the appropriate effect blocks in Helix.

My view every Sunday. Not much of a setup, just Helix, an expression pedal, and G10 wireless. 5 minute setup.

Use a Tele with the bridge pickup, and any of your favorite cleanish amps. The trick is in the articulation of the notes. Pick them hard and damp them with some subtle palm muting. You could add a little chorusy modulation effect in there too for some Clavinet/Fender Rhodes type feel.

Put shade over your Helix, and you should be fine.

Are you playing with a wedge in the room to get that sustain/feedback?

Well, I do quite a bit of programming for human machine interfaces in the manufacturing sector, and this subject intrigues me. I am going to send you a private message with my email address. As I am playing at my Helix, I will be brainstorming some ideas of how to make your sessions with your Helix hopefully a little more efficient. I would like to reach out to you with any ideas that I have on documenting the workflow of the helix with zero visual feedback.I don't have an LT, but I think most of the menu paths are pretty much the same.

1. Blocks are arranged horizontally, left to right. To add a parallel path to your signal you first drop in a block on the first path, then click the action button, then you can move that block to the path below. However, the split and merge of that parallel path won't be in your desired positions and you have to go to each of those to move them from where they split and merge. The cursor position is purely visual so it may take some pecking around to figure out where your cursor is. I can see where an interface between Helix Edit and your screen reader would be extremely helpful. 2. If you are using an amp and cab block, then moving the joystick to the right does get you to the cabinet. However, you can choose separate amp and cab blocks so you can put effects in between. In that case, the "tone stack" button only takes you to the amp. 3. If your screen reader can interpret PDF files, then you will find the effects on page 23 of 59 of the 2.0 user manual. I am not sure if they are in order of what is on the Helix display though. I am not at my Helix at the moment. 4. Yes, the bass amp models are at the bottom of the amp list. I think your biggest help will be to have someone with you that can talk you through all the menus. Your biggest challenge will be having no feedback from the Helix for cursor position and what preset it is on. I am not sure if anything like this exists, but if there is a device that will interpret MIDI messages, then you could get the Helix to transmit the current preset number so you will know which one you have loaded. This could be an awesome opportunity for Line 6 if they could develop some tools for people with no sight. That would definitely put them above the rest of the competition.

For using just one external expression pedal, I plug it into EXP3. That way the on board EXP 1 and EXP2 functionality does change and I still have the toe switch, but I use EXP3 for other duties. You shouldn't have to change any of your presets to make that work.

That is a really interesting question. I am not at my Helix, so I can't answer those right now. A question back to you is, how would the layout of this information be best for your needs? I may be interesting in writing a "manual" for the Helix in terms of layout related to joystick and knob movements rather than visual feedback from the display.

Many speakers have similar options. Live if you have the speaker on a stand (this setting has a flat EQ setting) Monitor if you have it on the floor as a wedge (it will EQ out some of the low end due to floor/speaker bass coupling effect) Any other setting will "color" the sound with additional EQing other frequencies.

Oh yeah...duh. I was shopping for a specialty rechargeable battery last week that was 3.5v. I guess that was stuck in my tiny brain. Either way, DC to DC converter can still go from 5v to 3v if that what the transmitter is using.

Depending on if the 2xAA batteries are in series (7vdc) or parallel (3.5vdc), you could get an appropriate DC to DC converter board/module to convert from 5vdc on the power brick to whatever you need for the transmitter. A quick search at Digikey will get you in the right direction.

Helix defaults the on board expression pedal to EXP2. When you engage the toe switch, it switches to EXP1. Any pedal that you have assigned to EXP1 will change when you are moving the pedal while it is on EXP1. You must have somehow assigned EXP1 to some parameters on those other blocks.

Go to Global Settings>Preferences>Tap Temp Pitch. Change it from accurate to transparent. Accurate- it will sound like to bend over and adjust the delay time while playing, gets all glitchy. Transparent will be just that, you won't hear any sound changes.

The Helix is a completely different beast than just a pedalboard and amp. If you go into the Helix thinking it is going to work just like effect pedals and an amp, then Helix is not going to work for you. Helix is basically a recording studio in a box. In the Helix modeled world, you are setting up a mic'ed guitar amp in a studio. Most players never had experience with most of the real amps and effects that Helix is modeling, so they are very disappointed when the cannot "make them work" within the Helix. There are professional players in every genre that use Helix only for their rig, and with great success. There are some players that Helix won't be a fit for, but that is just like everything else.

Sounds like you have wah auto engage turned on. You probably want to turn auto engage off if you are just going to turn on/off the wah block with a snap or stomp.

Yes, I have used a single stomp to simultaneously turn on an EQ block, turn on a +4dB gain block for a lead type boost. On some of my presets, I am using an external expression pedal to do the following at the same time. You just have to assign the low/high set points appropriately for what you want to achieve: 1. turn up/down amp (or OD/distortion block) gain 2. turn down/up amp (or OD/distortion block) master volume to compensate for gain adjustment 3. Decrease compression as gain increases, or increase compression as gain decreases. 4. Adjust any EQ block parameter as needed when moving through the full range of the expression pedal. So you could also use the expression as an analog control (not just on/off) going from a rhythm type tone to a lead type tone. There are so many ways of achieving so many different goals. Lots of fun!

I take advantage of what you are describing as a shortcoming. I used to find myself using only 2 snapshots, mostly for clean and crunch. I then made use of the additional two snaps and made clean/wet and crunch/wet. That gave me clean dry, crunch dry, clean wet, and crunch wet. I then had 4 stomps available for turning on/off additional blocks, or for doing whatever. There is a lot of functionality in a single stomp if you assign more than one parameter to it. I usually have one stomp assigned to multiple reverbs/delays and call it "ambient" to make it sopping wet and lingering.

Those sound great Peter. I especially like the quick camera shot of the signal path on the front of the Helix. It points out how an amp model, cab model, and just a little reverb and delay can go a LONG way. Keep it simple, and sounding great!