PierM

Does also cost twice the helix. I wouldnt call this a "selling point". You are just paying for those extra cores.

You are safe as the battery will last like a cat in the highway...

HOLY COW! A "fractal vs helix" and "when they release new firmware" in a single thread. Well, this is gonna break the forum! lol!

Yes it is digital. I see the EMG 707 has a strum output peak voltage around 4.5V, which is very hot. The Duncan Blackouts should sits around 3V, but still very hot for any wireless system without a sensivity control.

Well, it's mechanical stuff, so soon or later they are all gonna die. Every switch in the world has a lifespan measured in cycles (clicks). The average lifespan of those tactile switch is declared to be 100,000 Cycles, which means it will start glitching as you get closer to this number. Of course it also depends how the unit it's being used (and abused) and exposed to contamination (dust, heat, humidity, water etc etc). If you are an heavy stomper and a touring musician, I'd say let's cut this number in half. :) Usually, when happens to me (not only with Helix but with everything using those tactile switches), I start cleaning them, then if problem come back means it's time to swap them with new parts. (If you're not sure how to do the job, better to have L6 doing that, or any other expert that does know what he's doing). The way you describe it, looks like it could just be a temporary glitch...maybe some extra dust particles, or a bit of oxidation. Just wait and see what happens. If it will come back soon, means it's time to clean them all (and see what happens next).

What's the problem exactly? I do have W11 in both laptop and main DAW, and I have no problems with Helix software and drivers. Am I missing something? :)

The FS on the Helix (all of them) are NOT real FS, but just mechanical assembly that are pressing against micro tactile switches, so spraying stuff from the outside, is doing nothing other than creating a dust trap. If you want to properly clean (and check) those tactile switch, you need to open the unit and proceed as you see here (AT YOUR OWN RISK TO DAMAGE THE UNIT);

This is weird, as those G50 are working with in/out parity (so there is no gain in the middle), with transmitters capable to receive a 6V peak from the incoming signal. I don't know the specs of the 707, but I doubt they are pushing over that. Have you tried with no cable management simulation, and using different channels?

Are the stock presets sounding properly? Have you tried modifying one of those preset amp blocks? If the original presets are working fine, then you are probably doing something wrong indeed. :)

You seems acting a bit denial now. We explained to you that EMIs and Ground Loops aren't something you can control and design into a device, especially that small. EMIs especially, are an ENVIRONMENT factor, that it has variables that aren't depending from the HX Stomp alone, or whatever audio interface or pedal you are using. It's a cross contamination between emitters of electromagnetism in a closed or small environment. Please don't let us going into details about the inductive, radiative, conductive and capacitive coupling loops. It's pointless for you, it's boring and wont solve your issues. These are things that happens all the time, no matter the brand or the product. Just google randomly "kemper ground loop noise", or "Fractal ground loop noise", or "AxeFX insane noise from PC". You'll find dozens of similar experiences, in any sound/audio compartment. You still have to find your way. Keep trying, moving your PC in a different location, raising the distance between stomp and PC, changing angles between your guitar and PC, in relation with monitors, or in relationship with the stomp. Try different sockets and guitar cables... Try different shoes. I mean, it's like that man. EMIs are a lollipop to break down. I know sounds annoying when other users tell you they don't have anything like you are having, but yeah... you need to deal with it. It just means isn't about HX Stomp, but about the environment and all the electrical elements inside and outside it. That's it. :)

I think you are right about V30. Funny is, that info is coming from a Hetfield interview. Probably a bit of brain fog . :)

ROffset does affect (offset) the amount of dBs needed to attack and release the swell. It helps A LOT to quick shape the swell for different guitars with different output, as well to shape the swell for slow or fast playing. I'm using it A LOT, and as soon as you know how it works it's very efficient. In this video, apart the first glitches to create the loop, I'm using it almost all the time.

Same happened to me, with my main JTV-59 battery. And this happened since first use, so I guess was an old battery, probably left without juice for years, sitting in its box. I don't think you can do anything to it.

Register your G10 then open a Support Ticket https://line6.com/support/tickets/add.html

For Kill'em All James Hetfield used a modded Marshall '59 SLP coupled with a Marshall 1960B 4x12 cab (sporting 4 Celestion Vintage 30). The only pedal was a first gen Rat, but most of that tone was coming from that cranked Marshal. As said above, mids were on the high zone. They started scooping mids later, and killing them all (pun intended) in Master of Puppets with the classic Metallica "V shaped" EQ.

There are bugs that can be triggered only if a complex series of conditions are valid and happening at the same time, or in a specific sequence. They can be very tricky to track down (debug) and being able to replicate a bug, doesnt even mean they know the cause. It's up to L6, once reproed a bug, to start a branch to investigate, track down, debug, solve, test and release a fix. Problem is, sometimes these bugs are affecting a very small percentage of userbase, so they probably think It is not worth it.

Are you sure you fully pushed the transmitter down to the base? The base does flesh red even when the transmitter isn't fully docked. Happened to me when I first bought my first G10...:P

It happens sometimes. For example, I still prefer the fender amp sims I do have in my FH 1500, which is considered "old gen" - and never really digged those in the Helix, at a level that I dropped the amp/cab all together and moved to a Iridium for the amp/cab simulation. Never looked back. Still using the HX for everything else I need and that works for me. Happens, especially when you are expecting a specific sound that you already know and that's printed in your memory producing a bias (like your old M13 stuff), or in my case when you know the real deal (as I've those fender amps so I know how they should sound), and I can say they aren't just there in the HX but they were in the Firehawk...so yeah, I moved on to find a smaller footprint platform (than the boat anchor FH1500) that worked for me for that specific tone.

That is already covered by the rd2rk post. :)

Isnt about number of blocks, but about how much DSP each effect is eating. :) Freeze/hold (poly sustain), tape delay, digital delay, reverb, cab/IR....that's too much DSP for the stomp. PS: my comment is referred to your original plan, first post. :)

You are asking to much power (and two FX loops) to the HX Stomp. For the things you are asking, the full helix should do the job.

You should contact StageCue, They do pedal to rack conversion, and they offer custom services. Spoiler Alert; isnt gonna be cheap... http://www.stagecue.com/products.html

Yes. :) You can control Tap/Tuner with an external switch, via Global Settings. Depending if is it's a two switch pedal or a single switch, you'll be setting FS4 and/or FS5 as TAP/Tuner and it will work just fine. Holding the switch will kick into Tuner, tapping will set the tempo. If it's a single switch I believe you need to split the HX Stomp Footswitch port with a Y cable (TRS to TS/TS), as this port it's for two exp pedals or two FS. I do that with a cheap but very solid Ampero Switch, and works flawless. I can't see why you couldn't use that MXR Tap to do the same. As soon as it's a momentary FS, it should work once properly setup in the Globals.

It's totally fine to discuss, no worries about that. Remember any audio interface, as soon as isn't called by a driver, it's just an expensive dead brick...which means is doing nothing as audio interface. ADACs arent being called, ports aren't being called, there is not "wetbar" doing anything, at all. Think of a lamp bulb, and the switch on the wall. You don't want the light, you switch it off. The audio interface driver, is doing that. As soon as it is installed, it will call for the audio interface ONLY when required through its driver; by windows system, by a DAW, by an audio app etc. But if no driver is being called by anything, the audio interface is just virtually off. The USB cable it is NOT an audio cable, it does just send and receive data + V and G. You see, if the driver isn't being called/used, as in your case, no digital audio is being sent or received. What you are asking is already there. Would be a waste of money, and a useless function from a design/engineering POV, adding a onboard function to shut off the HX/Helix audio interface. It's really like adding a switch to a light bulb. :) Then, if you want to use an hammer, you could disable the HX audio driver in the device manager. No Driver running, No Audio Interface. But sorry, even if you do this, you are not solving the noise issue. Hope you see the point here. :)