phil_m

You can get pops or noises when you have drastic changes from one snapshot to the other, especially when turning blocks on and off that have big impacts on the gain structure. I think the issue is that you're actually temporarily disrupting the signal, so it causes a pop. How do you have the two amp models set up? Are they in different paths, or is everything in one serial path? There are ways you could set this up to probably minimize or get rid of the noise altogether. I'm thinking if you had the amps in separate paths, and just controlled the "route to" parameter at the split (along with any of the amp settings), you would probably not experience any switching noise.

No, there is no compatibility between the two.

If you have extreme differences in values for parameter changes, there can be artifacts when switching between snapshots. I can't say I've experienced this, but this has come up other places. I think some people have had some success in making the artifacts not as noticeable by messing with the order in which they assign the controllers, but I'm not sure.

The editor application is just called "Helix", not Helix Edit. I think sometime people overlook when they search for it because they're expecting it to be named something else.

What posts above are you referring to exactly? I've not seen reports of this sort of thing elsewhere. Not trying to discredit you or argue, but I'm just thinking the problem is more with your particular unit or patches than with the 2.11 firmware in general. It's been out for several weeks now, and I've not seen people reporting freeze problems here, on TGP or in the Facebook group. Anyway, working with CS is your best bet. Hopefully they can get it sorted.

Haven't had any freezes in a long time. I've not read any reports of this being endemic to the 2.11 firmware. Does it happen on the same patches? Have you followed the reset procedure after installing the update? Not sure where you heard about Pete Thorn, but as far as I know he still uses Helix. He's always had multiple rigs, so I'm sure he decides which to use when on a number of different factors.

Kind of more like a couple arguing about which side of the room a chair looks better in...

This is kind of a minor thing to pick at, isn't it? I mean, the option is there... I think having tails off as the default is the most intuitive since that is how most real pedals work (at least in their default state). You turn off the pedal, and the effect stops. Really, there has to be default settings for everything, and it's possible that half of the people think it should be one thing, the other something else. As Spikey said, just be glad you have the option to change it.

A piece I recorded today... I like to see how much I can do with just one preset, and everything on this was recorded with one preset based on the Matchless clean channel (except for the bass, of course). I created different snapshots for everything else. I used my Rickenbacker 330, a Tele, and my JTV on this one. Drums are Steven Slate Drums (SSD4). https://soundcloud.com/phil-miller-20/freezethaw

Have you docked the transmitter in the receiver for 10 seconds so it can find the best channel. Usually dropouts are caused by interference of some sort, so it could just be that it needs to find a better channel.

You don't have to wait for all the presets to rebuild after the Helix reboots after the update. You can power down once that process starts, and then do the 9+10 reset upon powering up again. There's no sense in rebuilding presets that are just going to be deleted with the reset anyway.

The Updater version is actually the least important part of the update process, as you can actually use an outdated version of the Updater to install the latest version of the firmware. The Updater is actually a relatively simple utility that's main function is downloading the firmware file from the Line 6 servers and sending it to the device. Line 6 Updater is used for other Line 6 devices, not just the Helix, so that's one reason they don't release a new version for every Helix update. It is unlike the old Line 6 Monkey in that regard. Line 6Monkey had to be updated for every firmware update for everything it supported, so it made it kind of maddening in the sense that it always needed updated. Anyway, as DI has hinted, Line 6 is looking at way at streamlining the process, and things will make more sense in the future.

Line 6's customer service support number is 818-575-3600. It's not a big secret or anything. It listed right here: http://line6.com/company/contact/ It is probably worth calling them.

The tone stack controls are modeled so they react like the amps they're modeled after react in real life, so they all behave differently. Some of them don't have a ton of range, and some are highly interactive - meaning the range of the specific control is tied to other control(s).

You're using an old version of the editor. It needs to be updated to 2.11 as well.

Saving individual presets and setlist is kind of a belt and suspenders thing. If you're saving a setlist, you don't really need to save individual presets. Saving the individual might be good if you have some extra special presets or something, but it's not really necessary if you have the whole setlist saved. I just back up my setlists now and import them after each update.

Are you sure you didn't accidentally load an older version of your setlist?

No, not in this case. The old Vintage Digital delay and the new one with the headroom parameter are actually two different effects. You just can't access the old one from the menu any more. I'm not sure why they did it this way in this case. Perhaps they were afraid the change would alter the sound of existing presets people had.

I don't know if the HD would be damaged or not. There's probably a good chance it's not. I'm not sure why the 2.0 wouldn't work, unless perhaps the barrel for the adapter(s) was damaged when you tried plugging it into the HD. Maybe it's just not making contact with the terminals now.

In order to use multiple G10s at once, you need to dock the transmitters in their respective receivers, remove the first one, plug it in to the guitar, and will it find the best channel and connect. Then do the second one, and then the third. The key is that they have to be un-docked from the receiver in sequence.

A quick note - since the time I wrote my original reply here, Line 6 has updated the Vintage Digital Delay model. They added a "headroom" parameter in the 2.10 release, so increasing the headroom will alleviate the clipping issues mentioned above without having to worry so much about the level going into the block. The one caveat is that the headroom parameter only shows up in the Vintage Delay block if you enter a new one in a tone. If it was a preset created prior to 2.10, you'll have to delete the original block and put it in again for it to show up.

Well, that's probably the issue, at least with the HD. The HD requires 9V DC, and should come with the Line 6 DC-3g (shown here). Don't take this the wrong way, as I'm not meaning it to be disrespectful, but are you sure you're dealing with POD HD? The black bean? All the prior beans - the 2.0, XT, and X3 used the the same AC power supply (well, at one point they did increase from 1200mA to 2000mA, but the barrel size was the same). All the HD series PODs use the DC-3g power supply, and the barrel is slightly larger. I just tried inserting the smaller barrel into my HD500 just to see if it would fit, and it does not even fit in the jack. So that's why I'm a bit puzzled here. As you can see on the back of the HD Desktop here, it requires 9V DC, 2.5A.

The store gave you bad advice if they told you to try the 2.0 power supply with the HD. The 2.0 power supply is 9V AC, and the HD is 9V DC - they aren't interchangeable. Actually, I don't even think the 2.0 power supply barrel will physically fit in the jack on the HD, so I'm not sure how you tried it. If you actually forced it in, you could have damaged either power supply barrel or the jack on the HD...

I don't see how this would act any differently than just having a gain block with a 3 dB boost.

Lithium ion batteries actually store relatively well long term and have a relatively small self-discharge rate. But the batteries that come with the Variax should last quite a while. I mean, I've had my JTV69 since 2012, and I use the batteries all the time. I can't say I measure the actual run-time, but between rehearsals and even gigs, I can go a few weeks before charging them (I have two batteries). I also use the G10 with my JTV, and it doesn't cause the JTV battery to drain an faster than normal.