stumblinman

So the relay doesn't take the output transformer out of the loop? This needs clarification so folks aren't giving out erroneous information. Either it makes it perfectly safe to run without a speaker, or it doesn't protect it at all. I fail to see how it could do any good to make it a "ticking time bomb" scenario. If the experts can't provide concrete answers, perhaps an email to Line 6 might help. I will do so and post any reply I receive here, as this has been a point of contention a few times in the past.

This has been asked before, and if you take the time to actually check the specs on the DT25 it says right on the page: Speaker jack-sensing provides relay driven output transformer protection circuit. So is Line 6 lying about it? Has someone burned up a DT25 trying this? Who's correct? Chas or Line 6?

I updated my DT25 to 2.0 and just use the built in amp reverb. I changed it to the 59 spring using the DT Edit software and that frees up another block on my Pod. That's another possibility for you. It's simple for me as I don't use a lot of ambient effects.

This is the nature of Line 6. I've done some work myself as I'm qualified to do it and fairly comfortable doing so and all I had to go on were random Google images taken by other users to find my way around before digging in. Perhaps they are concerned about their circuits being copied? Which is humorous in itself as they are a modeling company and copying is the very nature of their business. I'm not sure. Frustrating to say the least. As far as the boost goes, I'm also curious as to what purpose it serves. Does it hit the preamp section harder, or just add a slight volume increase to bring the very different preamp volumes closer together? I can tell a difference in volume when I turn it on and off through DT Edit, but I can't say I ever notice it adding more grit to my tone. Frustrating, to say the least.

Yep, just trying to help eliminate erroneous answers so he's not steered down the wrong path. Especially if time is a factor. I say crack that puppy open!

That was on the DT50's if I recall correctly. Only a certain series of them before the DT25 was even released.

I'm sure you tried all your USB ports and aren't connecting through a hub? Cubase may not be finicky, but the edit software might be. /shrug

+1 My best brown sound came from SLO100 Overdrive channel. Experiment and don't lock yourself into a specific model for a specific tone.

I have to agree. They have gone above and beyond for any problem I've had. They even tracked down part numbers from fullcompass.com for me to do my own out of warranty repairs. Top notch all the way.

For my heavier tones I generally use 2 gates because I don't use a ton of effects. I have a noise gate near the start of the chain and a hard gate immediately after the amp. For my lower gain/slightly dirty tones I generally don't use one except for when I have a dirt box in the chain too, and then the gate and dirt pedals are tied to come on together so my hot side stays hot and the cool side stays cool.

Yes.

How old are the tubes?

It could just be that the HD firmware from almost a year ago just might not be considered recent.

Like I said, you may try a reflash of the same firmware if you haven't already. It sounds exactly like mine prior to doing that. Download it to your computer and flash from the file instead of the auto-download and flash option. Never hurts. Good luck with the support ticket too.

I had this issue and a firmware reflash cured it. Just odd distorted overtones I could never seem to remove. Reflashed with same firmware and it went away. No rhyme or reason, just what worked for me. I see you've had it through multiple upgrades, so even though the tone is identical, you may have a different issue. So with guitar volume as low as possible but with drive on amp/pedal cranked it still has the distortion issue?

Did you turn all your knobs to 0 on the DT25 so nothing is moving from amp vibration? Knob jitter is quite common.

Sounds like the left a ribbon cable unplugged inside. You can crack it open yourself by removing all the outer edge screws and looking for a cable unattached, or you can take it back to the shop and let them do it. A ribbon cable disconnected is my guess. I believe if you do it yourself it voids the warranty though. How old is your HD?

Wow, whether or not folks are right or wrong, that is a serious amount of venom being spewed. Glad I don't hang out there!

If you aren't afraid of a little soldering you may be able to buy a replacement knob and install it yourself. Or see if you are within warranty and if it just flat-out failed you may be within your rights to get a repair.

That's no matter. I was merely referencing it for the mathematical equation listed above to assist in making the combinations possible more accurate.

The boost option works on the DT25 as well, just for future reference.

Easiest way is to connect it to HD500 edit and copy some of the blank user banks over the presets.

Are your input/output settings the same? Studio/ direct vs combo front etc? Global input options? Impedance?

That MUST be it..

Two of you gave him advice that he stated he already tried. Did you even read the whole post? I hope your new one treats you better. Good luck!